Distance from the door to the switch: rules and tips, features for different rooms

Practical advice for developing an electrical network project in a house or apartment

The safety and ease of use of household appliances and lighting fixtures depends on the design of the location and wiring of the power line. To correctly calculate the installation height of sockets and switches, you should follow a certain sequence when developing a plan:

Think in advance about the placement of furniture and electrical appliances around the apartment.
Make a detailed diagram of each room, taking into account doorways, windows and water and gas wiring.
On the diagram, mark the location of the sockets, taking into account all recommendations for height and distance between them. Take into account the total power of the required power line, and also add backup points.
Arrange the switches on the plan depending on the location of the doors and the side of their opening, consider the number of switches in the corridor and the installation height.

Installation Standards for Installation Products

According to standards, sockets are installed 25 cm from the floor, a switch is 1 m (correct if this is wrong). Does this mean the distance from the bottom edge or center of the installation product?

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zabj wrote: Do you mean the distance from the bottom edge or center of the installation product?

No edges. Everything is measured in the center of the installation products.

zabj wrote: According to standards, sockets are installed 25 cm from the floor, switch 1 m

I haven't heard of "standard". They set it for anyone as it suits them. For example: sockets from the floor are 30-40 cm, switches are 90 cm. In new buildings, “builders” place switches at the top at arm’s length, from the bulldozer.

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How have you not heard? According to building regulations, sockets and switches must be installed at a height of up to one meter from the “finished floor” level. Another thing is that you can sculpt them even on the ceiling.

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For me, it’s convenient if the switch frame is located in the space limited by the 95 cm and 110 cm marks. The sconce switches above the bedside tables are according to the situation. If a master who is 150 cm tall puts switches “under his own hands” for you, and you are, for example, 190 cm tall, then you will have to move closer to the wall to reach the switch.

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Abrikos wrote: If a master 150 cm tall puts switches for you “under your own hands”, and your height, for example, is 190 cm, then you will have to move closer to the wall to reach the switch.

What does the master have to do with it? The technical specifications for the installation locations and height are given by the customer, and everything else will be a failure to complete the task.

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Some equipment requires (or more conveniently) the installation of sockets at a height of 150 cm, a gas boiler, a gas alarm, an extractor hood.

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Convenience and practice: installation tips

Before you begin installing electrical wiring in your home, it is recommended to do the following:

draw up a diagram showing the location of all the furniture in the room;
On the diagram, mark the location of household appliances, write down their power;
mark the places where there is a gas pipeline and water supply;
mark windows, doors.

Following this scheme, it is worth choosing the most comfortable height of the products. If you do not create an accurate diagram and place electrical outlets at random, some of them may be hidden by massive objects and become unusable.

If, when installing electrical outlets, a part still turns out to be uncomfortable to use, you can use an extension cord.

After completing the installation of power points, it is recommended to carry out voltage measurement work. This will protect the operation of the devices and help extend their service life if a problem is found.

Installing power points and switches in the apartment is the most important point in laying electrical wiring. Fixing at an inconvenient height will not allow maximum use of electrical mechanisms. To select the optimal distance, there are PUE standards; it is also recommended to rely on the size and location of furniture and electrical appliances.

Up or down the switch should turn on

Now let's consider this no less exciting question: should the switch turn up or down? Many people do not pay any attention to this rule when installing switches, but it exists.

Attention! The switch should only turn on up, and not down.

The fact is that in addition to ease of use, such installation of the switch is also considered safe. It’s not for nothing that in backlit switches the light bulb is installed at the bottom and lights up only when the device is turned off (downwards, respectively).

Knowing all the above norms and rules for installing sockets and switches, you can easily do all the installation work yourself. We share the article and experience with other users. Subscribe to the electrical channel. Health and good luck to everyone!

Installation height of sockets and switches

The height of switches or sockets in an apartment or house today is not regulated by anything specific. The main principle that should be followed when determining the height at which sockets and switches from the finished floor will be installed is the convenience of their use by you personally.

The generally accepted distances from the floor to electrical installation equipment have constantly changed and, most likely, will change more than once. At different times, in different countries and even regions, this value differed. For example, during the times of the USSR and a little later, the generally accepted installation height of sockets was 800 - 900 mm, and the height of switches was 1500 - 1600 mm from the finished floor to the center of the socket or switch.

Currently, it is generally accepted to install switches at a height of 800 - 900 mm, and sockets 300 - 400 mm, also from their center to the floor of the living space.

Installation height of switches and sockets according to PUE

In accordance with the rules for electrical installations, the installation height of sockets in administrative, office, laboratory, residential and other premises should be convenient for connecting electrical appliances to them, depending on the purpose of the room and interior design, but not higher than 1 meter. PUE, it is also allowed to install sockets on (in) specially adapted skirting boards made of non-flammable plastic.

However, according to the recommendations of the International Consulting Service for the Construction Industry (BICSI), the installation height of sockets depends on the size of the free space in front of it.

Socket installation height table

The table shows that there is some contradiction in the numbers between the recommendations of the PUE and BICSI, however, the installation height of sockets 300 - 400 mm, and switches 800 - 900 mm from their center to the floor, can be considered generally accepted.

Separate cases of choosing the height of installation of sockets

There are cases when the above recommendations are not suitable for the convenient use of sockets, for example, near desks they should be placed a little higher than the tabletop, at a height of approximately 800 mm from the floor level. Sockets near kitchen tables should be placed even higher, at a height of approximately 1050 mm from the floor. In the bathroom, the installation height of the socket can reach 1800 mm.

Installation height of sockets and switches

It is best to place switches immediately at the entrance to the room. It is advisable to do this so that in all rooms they are on the same side, of course, if it is possible to do this. Switches should be positioned so that an open entrance door does not block access to them. The distance from the door frame to the switch should not be less than 100 mm. In the bedroom it is very convenient to use walk-through switches, which can be placed above the head of the bed or above the bedside table.

Switch distance from door

Stage 1. Part 4. Layout plan for lighting elements.

In the previous parts of the manual, do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step-by-step
instructions, we discussed the topics in detail:

What is a wiring diagram and why is it needed? 1 part.
Where does proper electrical wiring begin? How and why to make a furniture arrangement plan? Part 2.
How to independently make a competent distribution of sockets throughout the apartment? Part 3.

Continuation of the chain of step-by-step analysis is the topic of lighting.

In part 4 of the manual, do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step-by-step instructions, we will talk about how and how lamps, chandeliers and switches are distributed when planning the electrical part of the apartment.

You will learn how to correctly distribute lighting elements yourself, as well as what you should pay attention to and what points to take into account.

Let's start with the first room, which is designated in our example as “Hall”.

Lighting of the “Hall” room.

Let me remind you of the furniture arrangement.

This room will be illuminated by one chandelier located in the center

In order to obtain the coordinates of its location, you need to do the following: First determine the length and width of the room.

Next, divide the resulting values in half.

The coordinates for the location of the chandelier are ready.

Important! “Many people mistakenly believe (there are even experienced electricians) that the preparatory work for the lighting part of the room ends here, and now you can safely run to the store to choose the chandelier you like.

Before purchasing lighting fixtures for a specific room, it is necessary to calculate the lighting part. This calculation is based on the standards for illumination of residential premises and allows you to determine the required amount of light for a particular room.

What are the consequences of ignoring this stage?

If the purchased chandelier illuminates the room more than required, you will pay extra money for light every month.
If the chandelier produces less light than required, insufficient illumination will negatively affect the health of your eyes every day, which can ultimately lead to glasses or expensive treatment.

In the subsequent parts of the instructions for do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, we will consider in detail how to independently calculate the illumination of a room, using the example of a one-room apartment that is already familiar to us.

Let's continue the topic of part 4 of the instructions.

If you plan to install any large furniture in the room, for example, a large closet or a built-in wardrobe that will take up a large space in the room, it would be advisable to consider the center of the room not from wall to wall, but from wall to closet.

So, we have decided on the location of the chandelier. Now, we need to place a lighting control, this could be:

one, two or three-key switch;
a pair of pass-through switches;
Dimmer;
sound or motion sensor;

In our example, a two-key light switch will be used for these purposes. We will discuss in detail how exactly the control device is selected and what it is based on in the subsequent parts of this manual.

In most cases, light control devices are located indoors. This is convenient primarily because you can perform all the necessary manipulations without leaving the room (for example, turn off the light before going to bed).

Before choosing an installation location, be sure to take into account where and how the interior door will open. Upon completion of the repair, the switch should not be in an inconvenient place, for example, behind a closed door.

From the edge of the doorway, mark the distance to the center of the switch. We remember that a door frame will be installed in the opening (3.5 centimeters and a platband 6-8 centimeters).

Based on my own practical experience, a convenient location for the switch is a distance of 15-18 centimeters from the arch of the doorway to the center.

The installation height from the floor to the center of the switch varies from 80 centimeters to 1 meter.

The most convenient solution would be an individual selection, based on your hand.

To do this, you need to go to the doorway and place your hand down on the wall (at a distance of 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the doorway) and mark the place where it will be most convenient for you to turn it on and off.

This method is suitable if there are 1 to 3 people of approximately the same height living in the room.

Well, if the family is small to large, then the most optimal solution would be a height of 80 centimeters from the floor to the center of the switch.

These are the coordinates we will use in our example:

18 centimeters from the doorway (L - length).
And 80 centimeters from the floor to the center (h – height).

We mark the coordinates of the location of our switch on the plan.

Lighting of the “Kitchen” room.

Let me remind you of the furniture arrangement.

We will provide kitchen lighting with a standard ceiling lamp, structurally equipped with a fabric lampshade and 1 lamp.

It will be located in the center of the room.

To determine the exact coordinates, we measure the length and width of the kitchen room.

Divide in half and get the exact coordinates of the location of the lamp.

The kitchen lamp will be controlled by a single-key switch. It will be located indoors:

at a distance of 18 centimeters from the doorway,
installation height is 80 centimeters (all coordinates are indicated to the center of the switch).

Let's designate the coordinates on the plan.

Lighting for the bathroom and toilet.

Once again I will remind you of the arrangement of furniture in this room.

And let's start the debriefing with the lighting of this room.

This room has one interesting feature: under certain conditions (for example, using a bath or shower) it is separated by a curtain. Accordingly, when this condition is met, with a standard location of a single lamp (for example, on a wall or ceiling), there will not be enough light in the shower, since the curtain will refract the light flux.

In this case, taking a bath or shower will simply be dark.

Also, do not forget that we spend a lot of time in the bathroom near the mirror:

we shave
brushing teeth
we style our hair,
We wash ourselves.

Therefore, this room should have very good lighting.

Of course, as an option, you can purchase a mirror with lighting, or you can carefully think through the placement of the lamps.

In our example, we use spotlights to illuminate the bathroom. These light sources have proven themselves in uniform distribution of light flux throughout the room.

We will first place 4 spotlights here.

Preliminarily, because the exact number of lamps that together will provide sufficient illumination can only be determined after certain calculations have been performed. We will carry them out in part 7 of the step-by-step instructions for do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment.

Good results are obtained by placing the outermost spotlights at a distance of 30-40 centimeters from the wall; this configuration allows sufficient illumination of areas adjacent to the walls, as well as the corners of the room.

I'll show you how to make markings for 4 spotlights based on the condition described above.

To obtain the best possible, uniform illumination, the distance between the lamps should not exceed 1.2 meters.

The bathroom lights will be controlled by a single-key light switch.

For damp and damp rooms, standard switches for outdoor and indoor installation should be installed exclusively outside the room.

As can be seen from the figure, the location of the switch is limited.

In order to determine whether the switch will fit on this section of the wall, we take measurements from the doorway to the edge of the wall.

It is worth noting that the outer edge of the wall has very significant limitations; approaching it risks violating its integrity at the stage of direct installation of electrical wiring.

When installing a socket box (or, as it is also called, a mounting cup), part of the brick underlying the outer corner may break off.

To avoid damage, we do the following; after taking measurements, we look if the distance from the doorway to the outer corner is:

Equals 28 centimeters, then everything is close, but it works out. Divide the resulting segment in half. The middle of this distance will be the center of the switch.
More than 28 centimeters, everything is fine and there are no problems. We place the switch according to standard values, 15-18 centimeters from the doorway to the center of the switch.
Less than 28 centimeters, we are thinking about an alternative location for the switch, or, as an option, changing the opening direction of the interior door leaf (for example, it will open outward, but not from left to right, but from right to left).

Ground switch

Despite the apparent absurdity, there are such models. In general, the grounding loop should not have disconnecting devices along its entire length. Therefore, the contacts of the switch with grounding do not intersect. Metal parts of the housing may be grounded: for example, the mounting substrate is often made of steel for strength. When installing internal switches in the bathroom (which is generally undesirable), or in places where moisture could potentially get on the housing, protective grounding is used. If a dangerous potential of 220 volts occurs on the housing and a wet wall, a short circuit or current leakage will occur. The circuit breaker or RCD will trip.

Ground switch

Useful tips

Despite existing standards, many homeowners prefer to do “whatever is convenient for them.” To prevent non-standard solutions from causing undesirable consequences, you should familiarize yourself with a few tips:

It is recommended to schematically depict sockets and switches on the surface of the walls; this will allow you to analyze convenience and practicality.
For safety reasons, do not install switches near sources of moisture or heat.
Even at the stage of repair work, you need to decide where the furniture will stand, otherwise it may block access to electrical points.

You can consult with your relatives and friends; perhaps many of them have already made repairs a long time ago and they have something to compare with and what to advise.

How to install a light switch

The first thing you need to do is turn off the breaker. Some people believe that it is safe to turn off only the meter on which you install the switch, but we strongly recommend that you keep the main power supply switch turned off.

Turn off the machine

Then, use a voltage tester on each wire to make sure there is no electricity and everything is safe. We emphasize that it is better to check this several times before touching the electrical wires.

Switch connection wiring

The next step of the project is to remove any paint, residue or dirt from the box using pliers. Make sure that the area under the switch is free of debris and excess materials. This operation is important, especially if you are dealing with a newly built house or a repainted room.

However, even if you are replacing the old switch, you need to make sure that the new electric light switch will be installed and aligned properly.

Electric switch

After you have purchased the light switch, you must open it using a screwdriver. This operation is important because you will connect the electrical wires to the inside of the switch.

The next step of the project, after we have opened the light switch, we need to start connecting the switch. Use pliers to cut off excess wires approximately 6 inches from the wall.

Shortening the wires

This length should be enough to connect the switch, and it should be more convenient to operate. Remember that you should not leave long wires; in the future they may not fit into the switch box.

Once we've made sure the wires are cut to the proper length, we continue to the next step. Use pliers to remove approximately 2.5 cm of wire insulation. Remember, to avoid touching the exposed wire in the future, do not chamfer more than the specified length.

We strip the wire for connection

Domestic and international standards

According to domestic standards, which in principle was previously followed, sockets and switches are installed at a distance:

Switch at a distance of 1.6 meters from the floor;
The socket is at least 1 meter from the floor so that the child cannot reach the electrical contacts.

According to international standards, switches are installed at a height of no more than 0.9 meters from the finished floor. Sockets are placed at a distance of 15 cm from the doors, and 30 cm from the floor.

In the bedroom

In bedrooms, children's and other rooms, switches and sockets should be located based on their need in specific places and comfort of use. A “classical” scheme is considered when paired installations of a socket + switch are installed on both sides of the double bed. This makes it easy to connect low-power devices (charge your phone, for example) and easily adjust the lighting. Devices can be at the same or different heights

Please note that at a small height (about 30 cm from the floor) you need to place a socket for the vacuum cleaner - from this place its cord should easily stretch in any direction. The power source for computer equipment should, accordingly, be located near the desktop, given that one outlet will not be enough for it

In all cases, the main guidelines in choosing the location of devices are safety and comfort. The second, perhaps, can sometimes be sacrificed in favor of design, but the first factor is always of key importance.

Distance of the switch from the doorway, height of the sockets

In GOSTs and PUE there are no regulations that create specific boundaries for the placement of switches and sockets from the doorway.
Experts say that the optimal distance between the door and the switch is 10-15 cm. If you make the interval larger, you have to reach out and feel for the device in the dark, which is not very convenient. The optimal height of sockets above the floor is 20-35 cm. However, in some places it is better to determine the height individually, depending on the use of household appliances.

How to position light switches correctly?

Switches on the scale of repairs are such a small thing! But their correct location can make everyday life much more comfortable and convenient. We’ll find out exactly how below.

It is best to place switches at a distance of 10-15 cm from the doorway. When entering any living space, a person intuitively tries to find the switch on the wall next to the entrance.

Photo: Nicole Marino

The optimal height for the switch is 80-90 cm from the floor level. Of course, as many remember, the Soviet renovation, which involved installing a switch at head level, did not make life much more difficult for anyone - even children perceived it as a peak that needed to be conquered. But still, the height at which the switch can be felt with your hand without lifting it is much more comfortable and ergonomic. That is why in families where the height of adults is below average, it is more correct to install switches not even in accordance with the new generally accepted standards, but even lower to the floor.

More about comfort: this is not very obvious, but it is really more convenient if the light is turned on by pressing the upper part of the key, and turned off by pressing the lower part (provided that the switch is not a pass-through or rocker switch)

To understand why, pay attention to how you hold your hand when you enter a room and need to turn on the light, and how you hold your hand when you leave and need to turn it off. Are you sure?

Whatever position of the key the light turns on in the end, make sure that this is the case in all rooms. That is, if you need to press the top of the key to turn on the light in the kitchen, it should turn on in the same way in the nursery, bathroom and living room.

Photo: Aleksey Gnilenkov

The switch should be located on the same side as the door handle. So that you can open the door with one hand and turn off the light with the other.

If there are several light sources in the room at once (which is in accordance with the rules), let each of them have one switch with one key, rather than one switch with several keys. This rule is due to simple convenience - sometimes hitting a key without hitting others can be quite problematic.

It is not necessary to “attach” one lighting fixture to one switch. You can group different light sources and connect them to a single switch. For example, one may be responsible for soft light (floor lamps, sconces, backlights), the other for bright light. Each of these light scenarios is suitable for different life situations. For example, on an early winter morning, a stream of bright light will only irritate, but by the afternoon of a winter day, when the lack of natural light is especially noticeable, such light will come in handy.

Switches for the bathroom, as well as other rooms without natural light (pantry, dressing room, etc.), should be located outside them, for example, in the hallway.

If you decide to install the bathroom switch in the room itself, make sure that the distance from it to the door of the shower or bathtub is at least 70 cm.

Switches in the kitchen should be at some distance from the sink and gas pipe - 50-60 cm from them.

Photo: Emily May

If there is a sconce hanging above the bed in the bedroom (although designers recommend choosing bedside rather than wall lamps, which only illuminate the top of your head during evening reading), it is better to place its switch 10 cm above the bedside table.

Photo: Wicker Paradise

If the bed is double and there are also two sconces, you can place the switches above the bed in the middle (so that everyone has access to their own light) and add a pass-through main light switch to the panel. Pressing it is much more convenient than getting out of bed and trudge to the exit to turn off the main light. The only thing that needs to be taken into account with this arrangement is that the two extreme switches are responsible for the sconces, and the one in the middle is responsible for the “big” light. This is necessary in order not to get confused which of the switches regulates the operation of the main lamp, and which of the additional ones.

If the bed is double and there are also two lamps above it, do not make only one switch on them. For someone who wants to sleep rather than read, it will be much more comfortable if the light is not on over his “half”.

Features of installation of switches and sockets

The reason for long discussions is the height of the sockets from the floor. Since the exact definition is not written down anywhere, you can use concepts such as “European standard” or “Soviet standard”. When a “European-quality renovation” is planned in an apartment, most likely the sockets will be placed at a level of 300 mm from the floor, but the switches will be already at 900 mm.

According to the “Soviet standard”, the switch would be installed at shoulder level - this is approximately 1600 mm, and the socket would also be much higher - at 900 mm from the floor.

Each method has its pros and cons. Let's look at them briefly.

The Soviet standard for installing switches and sockets still occupies a leading position in society, since these layouts are still in demand in the market

#1. Features of placement in the corridor

For a hallway, 1–2 sockets are enough. It is better to place them in a corner near the baseboard at about 15-20 cm from the floor. This will allow you to connect various household appliances, for example, a vacuum cleaner, an electric shoe dryer or a phone charger.

Lighting and electricity points in the corridor are located so that it is convenient to use when leaving/entering the house, connecting infrequently used devices

In addition, other devices will fit perfectly into the corridor.

Among them:

apartment distribution board with circuit breakers;
Voltage regulator;
an electric meter, although a separate place is provided for apartments on the staircase, it can also be installed in the corridor;
switches for kitchen, bath and restroom;
junction box for TV cable, Ethernet or landline phone;

In most cases, this is quite enough, but sometimes they also provide for the installation of a heated floor sensor in the corridor.

#2. Location of electrical points in the bathroom

Of course, the number of electrical outlets in the bathroom will depend on the area and number of appliances, but in 95% of cases, 1-2 outlets will be enough. It is advisable to place the first one close to the mirror at a level of 1000 mm from the floor. It will connect a hair dryer and an electric razor. The second, for example, is connected to a washing machine or heater. In this case, at least 600 mm from the floor for the machine, and 1500 mm for the boiler.

There are no rules against installing outlets in the bathroom, despite the fact that the area is considered an electrocution risk.

It goes without saying that mounting both sockets next to a water tap is strictly contraindicated, so there should be a distance from the bathtub and sink of more than 600 mm, and preferably 1000 mm. It is imperative to worry about protection from moisture and install a waterproof outlet.

We must not forget that products may be subject to even greater danger. Since the bathroom is at risk of flooding, fixing products below 150 mm from the floor is completely unsafe. If water gets into the socket, the threat to life is simply colossal.

The optimal height for installing sockets in the bathroom is selected based on ease of use and minimizing contact with water

The reasons for this can be various situations, from a leaking faucet or pipe, to breakdown of household appliances or forgetfulness of the owners.

#3. Specifics of installation in the living room

A home theater or a simple TV box will require a separate outlet, or better yet two. The first is for the TV receiver itself, and the second is for the satellite receiver. The height level should be determined based on the location of the TV itself. It can stand on a cabinet, be mounted into a wall, or fit into a special cell of a furniture wall.

The power cord must not dangle or be under tension. It should be completely hidden behind the screen.

The living room in a small apartment can be visually divided into two separate zones: a space near the desk and a part for relaxing on the sofa in front of the TV.

On each wall, you should additionally place 2 sockets at a level of 150–300 mm from the floor. They can be used to connect a floor lamp, a fan, chargers for gadgets, a game console, or a vacuum cleaner.

You should worry about the possibility of conveniently connecting the air conditioner.

If there is a personal computer in the living room, you will need to take care of a separate power supply point for it. Read about how to connect it here.

It is recommended to place sockets and switches so that they are hidden from view if possible

#4. Rules for location in the kitchen

Every year, more and more intelligent technology is being developed to ensure human comfort and time. Naturally, the amount of equipment, and therefore sockets, in the kitchen in some places is simply off the charts. It is imperative to provide for the connection of a hood, possibly a washing machine, dishwasher, or electric stove.

But the main thing is a refrigerator, a microwave oven or a slow cooker, sometimes both. Mixer, juicer, food processor, toaster, blender, coffee maker and TV - this list is probably endless.

Installing electrical sockets in kitchen furniture is a convenient way to create a visual appearance of the absence of these devices and increase comfort (+)

An outlet is usually installed behind the refrigerator at a level of 600–800 mm. For the hood, it is advisable to increase the height three times – 1800–2000 mm from the floor.

When connecting an electric stove, the socket must be mounted 200–300 mm from the floor. Additionally, a hole is cut for it on the back wall of the kitchen furniture, if any.

For powerful consumers, a separate outlet is installed in the kitchen, independent of the general power line

Having estimated the location of the future working surface, it is necessary to provide connectors there as well. It is advisable to place at least three sockets 100–200 mm above the tabletop to connect small equipment.

A TV in the kitchen is most often mounted on wall brackets; accordingly, the height of the socket for this household appliance can be from 1800 to 2000 mm from the floor.

#5. The nuances of placement in the bedroom

Four products are sufficient in this room, with two sockets on each side of the bed. They will be intended for a bedside floor lamp, electronic clock or additional devices, such as an air conditioner, fan or vacuum cleaner. Near the chest of drawers with a mirror, it is also advisable to install one socket at a level of 600–700 mm from the floor to connect a hair dryer or hair straightener.

If there is a TV or PC in the room, you should also think about where to hide the wires and how to place the electrical connectors.

#6. Competent planning of power points in the nursery

A children's room is usually a combination of a bedroom and play space. This room also cannot do without electrical outlets. It is advisable to have at least 2-3 of them. You can put a lamp near the crib, and the rest for additional purposes.

Modern technologies make it possible to emphasize the visual component, while not forgetting about the safety of children, eliminating the chance of fingers getting inside

Many experts warn that plug connectors should be mounted as high as possible away from small children. They were right about this a few years ago.

Modern developments have made it possible to equip products with additional protective covers that prevent the child from coming into contact with the electrical network. These valves often require considerable effort to gain access to the plug holes. Spontaneous children's curiosity will be stopped.

#7. Subtleties of installation in the office

This room is not much different from the living room in terms of the location of the connectors. A minimum of 5-6 devices will be required to connect a PC - a system unit, a screen, audio speakers, a scanner and a desk lamp. Near the shelves for books you need to provide a place for reading.

Installation of a lamp and a comfortable chair should be included in the project plan, and this is another auxiliary connector. The other two devices are placed on an unoccupied wall. Each connector is mounted at a height of 150–300 mm from the floor.

There are two options for connecting the air conditioner. Directly through the machine or through an outlet. In the first option there will be no hanging cords, but you must definitely choose a high-quality machine, on which the functioning of the device will depend. In the second case, the socket must be placed at a level of 300 mm from the ceiling.

Possible faults

If after installation the light bulb does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are poorly twisted. You need to check the connections. To do this, there is no need to check each one. You need to start with the wires entering the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check whether electricity is supplied to the switch. Using a screwdriver, touch the ends of the wire entering the switch one by one. If the indicator is not lit, then there is a problem with the connection to the public network. Once again we twist the wires connecting the operating phases of the switch and the general network, having first turned off the power. Let's check again.

If current is supplied, but the light bulb still does not light, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest of the electrical circuit. If the switch is working properly, the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator lights up on only one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. It's better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not last long. If the switch is working properly, we check each connection until we find the fault.

Soviet standard for installing switches

If you go into several different older apartments, you will notice that, basically, all the light switches are on the same level. According to Soviet standards, these devices were located at a height of 1.6 - 1.7 meters from the floor . This attitude is still common today.

This happens because the standard height of the switch from the floor is so memorable on an intuitive level that even during repairs, people do not change their location so as not to get used to it again.

At what distance from the interior door should a light switch be installed?

Often, when renovating an apartment, it becomes necessary to replace or install a new interior door and at the same time replace light switches.

To install a switch, you must first install an interior door, which can be selected on the website https://www.allwoods.ru/mebel/dveri.html.

It is necessary to give some practical advice that will help you if you are just starting your professional or amateur activity in the field of repair and electrical work.

Where to start installing a door?

The first thing you need to do when installing a door is to prepare all the necessary tools and materials.

Door installation begins with the installation of the frame. Typically, doors from the manufacturer come complete with a door leaf, especially if they are made to order. Therefore, the box is completely inserted into the opening between the rooms.

Wooden wedges are placed on the sides and top, and the door in the opening is adjusted according to the level. When the door is completely installed, holes are drilled through the artsabs in two places (bottom and top).

After drilling the hole, the anchor dowels are inserted and the bolts are screwed in. All that remains is to foam the distances between the walls and the frame around the entire perimeter with foam. After it has dried, cut off the remaining dry foam that has protruded beyond the doorway.

After the door is completely installed, trims are attached to one and the other side of the door. The door is fully installed.

Switch installation

When the door is installed, you need to move on to the issue of installing the switch.

Here some may say that it makes no difference where the switch is installed. But this is not so, because there are generally accepted domestic and international standards according to which the regulatory distance is determined.

Light switches can be installed at the following distances:

According to domestic rules, it is recommended to install the switch at a distance of 160 cm from the floor surface. This regulation is explained by the fact that such a distance is safe in the context of children’s access to electrical elements of the house.
International rules state that switches must be installed at a distance of 90 cm from the floor level. Many experts think so. This is the most practical distance, since it is possible to turn off the lights faster even for short people.

The generally accepted regulatory distance for installing a switch is 15-20 cm from the door frame on the handle side for opening doors indoors. For the kitchen and bathrooms, it is recommended to move the switch outside the room and install it in front of the doors.

Based on materials: https://www.allwoods.ru/mebel/dveri.html

At what distance from the floor are switches and sockets hung?

The installation height is not strictly regulated in the documents; the rules for electrical installations provide only recommendations for location. The owner of the apartment decides whether to adhere to them or not.

PUE standards recommend installing switches at a distance of no more than 1.7 m from the floor. This coincides with Soviet standards. Currently, the location of food outlets is determined by the convenience and design of the premises. It is assumed that the height of sockets can be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor, and switches - from 80 to 100 cm.

In the kitchen and bathroom

The peculiarity of the bathroom is high humidity. The height of power points should be selected based on the requirements of GOST PUE. The switch must be located outside the bathroom. Electrical sockets should be located no closer than 60 cm from the water source. Recommended height for household appliances:

for a boiler 1.5 m;
for hair dryer, razor – 1 m;
for a washing machine not less than a meter.

In the kitchen, electrical products should be located at a distance of 60 cm from gas pipelines and water sources. Taking into account furniture height standards, electrical sockets can be installed at three levels:

10-15 cm from the floor – power points for the stove, refrigerator, dishwasher and washing machine;
110-130 cm – for a kettle, microwave oven, multicooker and other household appliances that are placed on the work surface;
200-250 cm – for hood and lighting.

The sizes are chosen taking into account ease of access to sockets.

In the children's room and bedroom

Fewer power points are traditionally installed in the bedroom. The switch from the main chandelier is installed near the door on the handle side at a height of 90 cm. Near the bedside tables, there is traditionally one electrical socket on each side at a height of about 70 cm. An additional socket with 2-3 connectors is placed near the desktop at a level of 30 cm from the floor. If there is a TV in the bedroom, it is better to hide the electrical outlet behind its housing.

In a children's room, the switch should be installed at such a height that the child can reach it; 70-90 cm will be optimal. The socket, preferably equipped with protective curtains, should be placed near the crib and next to the desk at the same height as in the bedroom.

In the hallway and living room

In the living room, several electrical outlets are installed behind the TV at a level of 1 m from the floor. Additionally, they make power points for lamps and music systems at a comfortable height. There is one switch installed, near the front door on the handle side. For rooms with multi-level complex lighting, you can install switches with several keys.

The corridor is equipped with one switch next to the front door. The socket is also made one next to the sconce at a comfortable height.

INSTALLATION AND LAYING OF WIRES

Installation methods vary depending on the material of the walls and ceiling. Wires can be laid:

in grooves (for plastered walls) – hidden installation of electrical wiring;
in a corrugated protective pipe (for walls and partitions made of plasterboard sheets);
in a cable channel - for installing open electrical wiring on flammable surfaces - wood or plastic.

Installation of electrical wiring in boxes is convenient because it requires minimal effort when replacing or repairing the cable.

Electrical wiring requires compliance with the following conditions:

horizontal sections of the laying should be spaced from the ceiling or floor level at a distance of 150 - 200 mm;
vertical sections - at a distance of at least 100 mm from corners, door and window openings;
outlets for connecting sockets, switches, lighting fixtures - strictly at right angles to the main wiring.

The desire to save money and lay the wire along the nearest path will lead to the fact that after a while, when drilling a hole in the wall for a picture or cornice, the drill will stumble upon the wire. It will also be difficult to find the faulty section of electrical wiring.

The diameter of the pipe must be selected in such a way that it is possible, if necessary, to replace the cable without resorting to major repairs.

Electrical wiring along the ceiling is carried out either in grooves or in technological holes in concrete floors. If there is a suspended or suspended ceiling, the wire is laid in the interceiling space in a corrugated hose.

The ends of the cable coming out at the installation sites of sockets, switches and distribution boxes must have the required length margin. When installing hidden electrical wiring in grooves, the cable is secured with special brackets.

ELECTRICAL WIRING IN THE FLOOR

Installing electrical wiring in the floor has its own characteristics. It is beneficial at the stage of performing rough repair or construction work and can reduce the cost of purchasing wires, since the requirements for the location of the cable here are not as strict as for wall or ceiling installations.

The following conditions must be met:

use of protective corrugated pipe;
the thickness of the concrete screed on top of the wires is at least 30 mm.

Electrical wiring on the floor must be carefully thought out, since it will be impossible to redo it later.

INSTALLATION OF DISTRIBUTION BOXES

Distribution boxes are used for making taps and branches of electrical wiring. Distribution boxes are installed in places where lines for sockets, switches, and lighting fixtures are branched off.

Wire connections in boxes are made using special connecting terminals, twisting or soldering. The last method is the most reliable, but also the most labor-intensive, since it requires the use of special tools and materials.

Wire connections in junction boxes are insulated using insulating caps, bushings or, in extreme cases, fabric insulating tape.

SELECTION OF PROTECTION MACHINES

To protect against short circuits on the electrical panel, circuit breakers are installed in each circuit, which open the circuit when the specified current is exceeded.

To reduce the risk of electric shock when electrical appliances are damaged in rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, kitchens, residual current devices (RCDs) are used, which also open the circuit when leakage currents occur, for example, when the heating element in a washing machine or kettle is damaged.

After all work is completed, the electrical wiring installation diagram is adjusted, since in most cases, the original diagram will change due to factors not taken into account during the design.

ERRORS IN ELECTRICAL WIRING

Common mistakes to avoid that can lead to accidents:

for any installation options, conductors should not be allowed to intersect;
Direct connection of aluminum and copper conductors is not allowed;
The use of plastic electrical tape in junction boxes is not permitted.

Circuit breakers should not have too much current reserve, but weak circuit breakers can cause false network shutdowns, for example, when several loads are switched on.

RCDs are selected according to the permissible leakage current. Incorrectly selected parameters will also cause false alarms or, conversely, lead to electric shock if the selected margin is large.

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