Installation of a metering board on a support: PUE requirements and general recommendations

Classification of shields

The metering board can have different designs: in the form of a small box designed for installation of a metering device and a protective device, or in the form of a full-fledged cabinet in which several protective devices and other auxiliary elements for the distribution of electricity can be installed (metering and distribution and group metering). distribution boards).

Shields are also classified according to the degree of protection of the housing from the negative effects of moisture and foreign objects, including dust. In this case, the shield is installed on a support (pole), that is, outdoors, so the body of such a shield must have a protection degree of at least IP54. Also, when choosing the housing of the metering and distribution panel, you need to take into account the possibility of its operation in the temperature range of local environmental conditions.

The housing of the metering board for installation outdoors must have a locking device, and on the housing itself there must be a transparent window to allow energy sales representatives to easily take readings.

Attaching the electrical panel to the pole

Pillars are a complement to the architectural design of the city, streets, areas.
With the help of supports it is easy to maintain the style of historical centers, parks, or any place. The supports are highly durable and resistant to bad weather conditions. Based on the material used, poles can be divided into wooden, reinforced concrete, and metal.

The advantages of the last two:

strength;
long service life;
corrosion resistance;
pole mounting allows for quick installation of devices;
safety.

You can install it on a street pole:

Street lights;
street electrical panels;
CCTV Cameras.

Street lights

Several types of lamps are used for street lighting:

Spotlights. These are large luminaires with powerful lamps. They are used to illuminate large areas.
Landscape gardening. These lanterns are designed for tiered lighting.
Floor lamps. This type of lamp is necessary when it is necessary to install the lamp vertically at the top of the support.
Console. These are common devices that are attached using a console.

Street electrical panels

Outdoor electrical panels, designed for installation of metering devices and meters, are mounted on a pole or support. They are needed for:

electricity metering;
protection of electrical equipment from overloads and short circuits;
protecting devices installed inside the electrical panel from external natural factors.

Electrical panel design

Electrical panels used to supply power to country houses and cottages have the following components:

· electricity meter;

· zero bus;

· RCD;

· grounding bus;

· several automatic machines (introductory, for high-current and low-current sockets, for lighting devices).

The complete set of the switchboard, as well as its installation, should be entrusted to an experienced electrician. The presence of errors in this case is unacceptable.

How does the work of installing an electrical panel on a pole proceed?

1. Selecting a support for the shield. Installation can be carried out on an existing pole, having received permission for this, or by concreted a new one. The support must be strong, rigid and free from significant mechanical damage.

2. Marking the post. The master performs calculations and lines the surface of the support, checking the size of the metal cabinet.

3. Fixation of the bracket. The structure must wrap around the pole. The shield body is attached to its ends using bolted connections.

4. Installation of DIN rails. They are necessary for attaching neutral and grounding busbars, electric meters and automatic machines.

5. Installation of equipment. The master connects the input cable, installs the circuit breakers, zero and grounding buses, groups of fuses (connected to each other using jumpers), and an RCD.

After completing the installation of the electrical panel, electricity is connected. The master makes a control assessment of the quality of work.

Some useful tips for assembling a shield

When assembling an electrical panel, it is necessary to use only high-quality and reliable electrical products. You should not pay attention to cheaper Chinese analogues; personal safety is much more important.

To connect wires to machines, it is best to use special lugs for crimping. Of course, then you will have to purchase pliers with which crimping is performed, but their cost is not too high.

The use of insulating tape is no longer relevant; many electricians use exclusively heat-shrinkable tubing. This consumable is convenient and reliable, and it is not necessary to purchase a hair dryer; you can use an ordinary lighter.

For ease of use, all elements of the electrical cabinet must be marked. Only then will it be possible to quickly and easily turn off the voltage in a certain room. You can make notes on the body of the device or make small signs and attach them to the product with tape.

Expert opinion

It-Technology, Electrical power and electronics specialist

Ask questions to the “Specialist for modernization of energy generation systems”

How to assemble an electrical panel If the electrical panel is located on the outside of the wall, the ends of the wires are brought inside the panel to connect to the RCD. Ask, I'm in touch!

Types of boxes by type of design

Foreign and domestic manufacturers offer boxes of different sizes and capacity. The option is selected depending on the parameters of the equipment that is planned to be placed in the box.

The dimensions of the shield are also selected for the type of meter. Single-phase metering devices are smaller in size than three-phase ones, sometimes two times

There are also certain markings that indicate the type and purpose of the box. Example:

Control panel is the usual and simplest one;
ShchVR - a box built deep into the wall;
ShchRN - distribution-mounted box.

If it is just a metering panel, it usually contains only a meter, an input machine, grounding and neutral buses. Residual current devices, as well as circuit breakers, are installed in the “home” box. But you can combine all this in one box.

The design of the shield can be:

floor;
built-in;
invoice or mounted;
hidden or open;
whole or collapsible.

What kind of equipment, in what quantity and with what parameters should be installed in the box - all these points are prescribed in the power supply project for a private house. If there is no such document, you need advice from relevant specialists.

Pit preparation

Digging a hole more than one and a half meters deep is very labor-intensive, so it is better to use a drill for this purpose. The stand is installed in a hole, after which it is filled with soil or crushed stone with obligatory compaction and checking the vertical position using a spirit level or plumb line. If possible, it is better to fill the pipe stand with cement mortar or concrete, but you should give the time, at least one day, necessary for the solution to form.

In parallel with the work of preparing the hole for the rack, you should think about arranging a grounding loop. According to the requirements of the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE), the pipe rack and the cabinet mounted on it must be grounded. As a grounding conductor, you can use a corner inserted vertically into the ground to a depth of 1.5 meters, but in some cases such a solution is not workable and does not meet the requirements for grounding resistance. Contact specialists on this issue.

It is difficult to drive a pipe or angle to such a depth, so there will be a need to dig or drill, so it makes sense to combine excavation work to prepare holes for the stand and for the ground electrode.

Basic criteria for choosing a box

The main task of the consumer is to find a durable, practical box that will withstand long-term service in outdoor conditions. The box should be convenient for installation and operation.

What is important about the design itself? The presence of holes of the appropriate diameter for the wires that come from the support and lead out to the building. It is desirable that these elements have rubber seals and plastic couplings.

The electrical panel must accommodate all necessary outgoing cables and additionally leave space for upgrading or expanding the installation

A convenient detail is the window. It eliminates the need to open the shield to take readings and reduces the frequency of contact of the internal contents with air and moisture. Pay attention to the sealing lugs.

Another important point is the degree of protection from dust and humidity. It is determined by the IP index and the number next to it

The IP20 index means that the box is protected from dust particles larger than 12.5 mm, but is vulnerable to moisture. The IP65 protection degree guarantees complete isolation from these negative factors. The higher the number, the more expensive the design. The optimal option is with a score of 54.

When choosing an electrical panel, you also need to look at the thickness of its walls, operating temperature range, number of doors, and type of lock. The box can be locked with one individual key or equipped with several identical ones.

Electrical wiring in the attic

2.1.69. The following types of electrical wiring can be used in attics:

open;
wires and cables laid in pipes, as well as protected wires and cables in sheaths made of fireproof or fire-resistant materials - at any height;
unprotected insulated single-core wires on rollers or insulators (in attics of industrial buildings - only on insulators) - at a height of at least 2.5 m; when the height of the wires is less than 2.5 m, they must be protected from touch and mechanical damage;
hidden: in walls and ceilings made of fireproof materials - at any height.

2.1.70. Open electrical wiring in the attic must be carried out using wires and cables with copper conductors.

Wires and cables with aluminum conductors are allowed in the attic of: buildings with fireproof floors - when laid openly in steel pipes or hidden in fireproof walls and ceilings; industrial buildings for agricultural purposes with combustible floors - when they are laid openly in steel pipes, excluding the penetration of dust into the pipes and connecting (branch) boxes; In this case, threaded connections must be used.

2.1.71. The connection and branching of copper or aluminum conductors of wires and cables in the attic must be carried out in metal junction (branch) boxes by welding, crimping or using clamps corresponding to the material, cross-section and number of conductors.

2.1.72. Electrical wiring in the attic, made using steel pipes, must also meet the requirements given in 2.1.63-2.1.65.

2.1.73. Branches from lines laid in attics to electrical receivers installed outside attics are allowed provided that the lines and branches are laid openly in steel pipes or hidden in fireproof walls (floors).

DIY wardrobe

If you have experience and desire, you can arrange a cabinet for an electric meter yourself. You will need to buy the structure itself, arm yourself with the necessary tools and assemble the electrical panel in accordance with the specifics of the home electrical network.

If you come across a cabinet of the required dimensions, but it lacks a window, lugs for seals or some holes, it is permissible to add these elements. But the work must be carried out in accordance with safety regulations and the requirements of regulatory organizations.

All necessary equipment is mounted on DIN rails. Many models of metering devices come with parts that may be useful during installation (stickers, caps, fasteners). The main task is to assemble the devices and connect them correctly with each other.

Models of external meters

If you are buying a new meter and not removing the existing one from the premises, you need a device suitable for use in outdoor conditions.

Please note the following points:

Induction models are much more sensitive to temperature changes than electronic ones.
DIN rail is preferable as a mounting method.
Go to the website of the electricity sales organization and see which models are allowed for installation in Russia.
For a multi-tariff payment system, choose a device that can take into account more than three tariffs.

Don't miss: Waterproofing a bathroom floor under tiles: materials and their application.
Waterproofing walls under tiles in the bathroom: step-by-step instructions Brand recognition and the presence of service centers also matter. A trusted manufacturer means quality, maintainability, and loyalty of inspection organizations.

Consider purchasing a counter and a box from the same manufacturer: this will make it easier to fully integrate the devices and the shell

Among the commercially available domestic brands, we can consider the following: INCOTEX, Taipit, Energomera, EKF. Particularly popular is the model “Mercury” 230 AM-03. It has a single tariff and is capable of giving accurate readings at temperatures ranging from -40 to +55 degrees.

Of the foreign manufacturers that have proven themselves well: Swedish-Swiss ABB, French Schneider Electric, Turkish Legrand. But European brands often have operating temperature ranges that do not correspond to Russian realities.

It is advisable to consult with specialists from the service organization in your region. Usually they have a list of devices that have already shown their best performance during operation.

Automatic and heater

An automatic switch is installed in the box before the meter. Its parameters must be calculated from the total power of all consumers - electrical appliances installed or planned in the house and on the street/garage and other domestic buildings.

If, for example, the total power is 25 kW, then a 63 A automatic machine is optimally suitable for this value. In addition to the input one, you need an outgoing line automatic machine, protective for the heater and modem (if any). Using the latter, the readings are automatically transmitted to the processing center. But such a scheme cannot do without a heater.

The heater for the electrical panel can be turned on and off manually or automatically. It is needed to maintain optimal temperature in cold weather - electrical appliances need heat to work without errors

Heaters for electrical panels are made of aluminum, which is coated with non-flammable thermoplastics.

The main functions of the element are to prevent the appearance of condensation, which prevents corrosive changes in current-carrying busbars and contacts and protects devices from high humidity.

Transfer input device and SPD

If the electrical installation includes an autonomous power source, a backup device must be installed after the meter. This device is needed to manually switch consumers from the external network to the generator and back.

The reserve input device eliminates the simultaneous use of two different power sources (external network and generator), which is its task

To protect the installation from lightning strikes, high-voltage surges and fires from these impacts, an SPD (surge protection device) is added to the panel. It is placed after the input circuit breaker and through a separate fuse. An SPD is required if entry into the building is carried out via an airway.

Additionally, a fire protection RCD and a cross-module for distributing electricity to different groups of consumers can be installed in the panel. Sometimes a differential machine is also added to the box.

The socket is one of the optional elements. But if construction is just underway on your site or you need a street connection for some equipment, you can’t do without it. And don’t forget about the zero rail, it combines all the zero cables and is used for connecting cores.

Design and purpose of grounding devices

Such structures are divided into working and protective devices.

The worker is used to organize the safe operation of industrial units. Also common in private households.
A protective grounding system is required for electrical networks in the residential sector.

Installation of a grounding device (GD) is required in accordance with the Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations and the Rules for the Operation of Consumer Electrical Installations.

People touching live parts exposed as a result of improper operation of electrical equipment, design defects, deterioration of insulation and other reasons is common. Poor-quality design of the charger and its installation can lead to serious consequences for people: electric shock, burns, disruption of the heart and other human organs, electric shock often leads to amputation of limbs, disability and even death.

The grounding system consists of external and internal parts, which are joined in the electrical panel. An external grounding device consists of a complex of metal electrodes and conductors that drain emergency current from electrical equipment into the ground in places that are safe for people. The electrodes are called ground electrodes. Electrical conductors are grounding conductors; they are pins 1.5 m long and 1 mm in diameter.

They are manufactured industrially from copper or copper-plated steel. Their main advantage is increased current conductivity. They are driven into the ground with hammers or sledgehammers to a depth of 50 cm; contact with the ground must be as strong as possible, otherwise the structure’s ability to drain current will deteriorate.

The simple design is made from a single electrode. Used in lightning rods or to protect remote objects and equipment. In individual farms, preference is given to multi-electrode devices. They are placed in one row and are called linear memory profiles. The standard chain length is 6 meters. They are connected to each other using brass couplings; the fastening is threaded; welding is not recommended. Grounding conductors are installed through terminals. Twisting and soldering of cores are excluded.

Select a counter

All meters that can be installed to account for energy consumption are classified according to three criteria:

Device design;
How to connect it;
Type of measured quantities.

Currently, two types of devices are installed in apartments, private houses and SNT: electronic, which records and controls consumption at differentiated rates, and induction, which makes measurements by rotating the disk.

The second option is not very reliable, so it is gradually being replaced by electronic ones.

Induction and electronic meters

Electronic devices are best suited for outdoor installation, as they are convenient and accurate and do not react to temperature changes. However, operating conditions with a temperature of 40 degrees below zero are the ceiling for them, and in regions where such weather occurs, it is still better to install meters indoors.

How to buy an electronic meter

The most important element for the meter is the seal. After leaving the assembly line and passing quality control, two of them are installed: the first is installed by the quality control inspector, and the second is installed by the state representative authorized to carry out verification.

Places for installing seals

The date of verification is put on the seal and entered into the product passport, so the first thing you need to do when purchasing is to check them.

If it suddenly turns out that there is no verification seal, or there is a date on it that does not correspond to the one in the passport, we do not recommend buying the device. Then you won’t be able to prove anything to anyone.

Verification seal

The date of verification is also important. At the time of purchase of a two-phase meter, it should not exceed two years, and for a three-phase meter this period is completely reduced to one year.

You can find all the necessary data in your passport

Scheme of a 380V electricity metering board for a private house 15 kW

The circuit diagram of a 380V electricity metering board for a 15 kW private house is quite simple. And if you understand at least a little about the rules for connecting electrical appliances, assembling an electricity metering box will not be difficult for you.

The wires to the meter terminals must be connected according to the diagram:

Well, that seems to be all. In conclusion, I would like to warn you that if the electricity metering panel diagram is complicated for you and you don’t know how to make a high-quality electricity metering panel, contact a specialist. It is better to go to the same organization that provides you with technological connection. In the next article I will tell you how to lay an electrical cable with your own hands.

Expert opinion

It-Technology, Electrical power and electronics specialist

Ask questions to the “Specialist for modernization of energy generation systems”

Assembling an electrical panel for a private house 380 V 15 kW During global repairs, which generally occur once every 10-15 years, the owners seriously think about replacing the electrical wiring. Ask, I'm in touch!

Selection of materials for installation

The implementation of the 15 kW specification consists of installing a meter on a pole at the border of the site. The electricity metering circuit is assembled in the switchboard. We were faced with the task of choosing an electrical panel that was protected from atmospheric influences, as well as from corrosion.

Plastic electrical panel for TU 15 kW Electrical panel for street installation Outdoor plastic electrical panel

In this work, we used an electrical panel made of plastic cross-linked with fiberglass. The advantages of such an electrical panel when performing 15 kW specifications:

Protection against moisture and dust IP 67
Corrosion resistance
Rugged housing
Ease of installation
Sealed cable entry
Low price
Stylish design

The cable entry is made using sealed leads, which provides protection from moisture.

Circuit breakers were selected based on safety and reliable operation, as well as workmanship. ABB machines meet these parameters.

Meter Mercury 231 AT 01 I, multi-tariff 3-phase for current 60A.

Box for 4 modules for sealing the power supply organization. Mounting wire Pv1 with a diameter of 6 mm.

The cable used is SIP 4 4*16 wire, as well as SIP fittings for its installation. Anchor clamp SIP DN 123 and branch clamp P 645.

The bracket is made of metal perforated profile 40*20. The profile is secured using pins with a diameter of 8 mm.

How it works in practice

On practice:

Installation of an introductory shield on a support; in civilized settlements they can withstand up to 1700 mm. The installation height in sparsely populated villages is raised to 2500 mm.
To lower the cable to the switchboard and lift it back for air entry into the house, do not use SIP wires, but use VVG cable. The cable itself is firmly fixed to the support, hiding it in protective pipes. When entering the house underground, the VVG cable is lowered in pipes to the shield, and after the shield, with the VVbShv cable in the pipe, they go into the trench.
In the input device, in addition to installing an input switch (before the meter) and circuit breakers (after it), it is necessary to install surge protection devices (SPDs).

vote

Article rating

Installation of a box for an input circuit breaker

One of the main differences between the metering board of a private house and a multi-storey one in an apartment building is the presence of means of protection against possible unauthorized connections.

All automatic protective equipment and switching devices located in the circuit before the electric energy meter must be closed in boxes (No2 in the diagram) and sealed. So that no one, including yourself, can change the agreed upon scheme and connect bypassing the meter.

Don't miss: How to choose paper wallpaper for walls

That is why, first of all, we install a special box for the input circuit breaker (circuit breaker). Its main feature is the presence of “ears” that allow you to put a seal.

Since the network is three-phase 380V, a three-pole input circuit breaker is used, which means the box must have at least three modules.

Installation of an incoming panel on a support, standards, rules, tips

First the standards:

According to the PUE (ed. 7), the distance from the floor (ground) to the electric meter terminals should be no more than 1700 mm;

To replace the meter and ensure its safe operation, a switching device or fuses must be installed upstream of the meter. (PUE 1.5.36). By the way, in the same paragraph it is stated that the distance from the switching device to the meter should be no more than 10 meters. That is, if the distance from the support to the house is less than 10 meters, it is possible to install an input panel on the support, and a meter on the facade of the house or in the house.

Important! Let me draw your attention to the fact that they do not circuit breakers (circuit breakers) before the meter, but a switch or fuses.

Installation of other devices in the panel

Then the remaining equipment and devices are installed in the electrical panel. The entire assembly is shown in the image below and includes:

1) Steel electrical panel (protection rating IP54 or higher)

2) Box/casing for installing input AV for 3 modules

3) Three-pole circuit breaker 25A

4) Three-phase electric energy meter 380V

5) distribution block for DIN rail

6) Selective RCD from 40A, leakage current 100mA or 300mA

End to end connection

Connection to MZP

Reliable end-to-end connection of timber is provided by nail plates; the product is a metal plate 1.0-1.5 mm thick with spikes 8.0 mm high. Spikes are formed as a result of cold stamping using a special stamp; 80-100 spikes are formed on one square decimeter of surface. The plate is installed on the side surfaces of the mating parts with the tenons down, the tenons are completely driven into the wood. The model range is coordinated with the standard sizes of lumber.

Electrical panel grounding

Very often the question arises about how to ground an electrical panel. In this case, first of all, it is also necessary to be guided by the requirements of the supplying organization.

If there are no requirements, it is necessary to ground the panel taking into account the grounding system of the electrical network. Most consumer networks have a TN-C grounding system, which involves combining the neutral and protective conductors into a PEN conductor along the entire length of the line. The point of separation of this conductor into protective grounding and neutral conductors is carried out in the shield up to the electric meter, and after separation the grounding system is called TN-CS. According to the rules, the PEN conductor has several repeated groundings on supports along the entire length of the line and at the end, in the metering panel itself on a support (pole), it is also grounded.

The PEN conductor is connected to the metal body of the electrical panel, and the panel, in turn, is connected to a pre-installed grounding conductor (grounding circuit) using a grounding conductor. The cross-section of the grounding wire must be no less than the cross-section of the input power cable.

But it is important to consider that grounding home wiring and the PEN conductor in particular can be not only useless, but also dangerous. If the supply line is in unsatisfactory technical condition, and the repeated grounding of the PEN conductor on the supports (poles) of the line does not meet the requirements, then in the event of a rupture of the PEN conductor, a dangerous potential may appear on the body of the grounded switchboard. In this case, an equalizing current will flow through the grounding conductor and the grounding loop, which can lead to damage to the input cable.

Consequently, if the grounding of the supply line does not meet the requirements for the declared grounding system of the electrical network, then it is better to use the combined PEN conductor of the input cable exclusively as the neutral input wire. In this case, you can implement a CT grounding system with your own hands, that is, install an individual grounding circuit of the wiring and ground the metal body of the electrical panel to it.

Finally, we recommend watching a video that clearly shows the installed grounded shield on a pole:

That's all the recommendations we wanted to provide you with. We hope that now you know how to install a metering panel on a support in accordance with the PUE and what requirements apply to this type of work. We hope the information provided was useful and interesting for you!

Basic mistakes when installing an electrical panel

If there is no switching device at the input of the switchboard, then there will be no way to de-energize the system to perform the necessary preventive or repair work. Also, they often install non-selective RCDs or do not provide differential protection for all consumers, which ultimately negatively affects safety. To prevent electric shock to a person in the event of an emergency, you will need to install differential protection with a leakage current sensitivity of no more than 30 mA.

In addition, it is necessary to completely insulate the contacts and current-carrying wires. A common violation is the incorrect choice of the shield housing itself. It must be of high quality, with a body painted with corrosion-resistant paint, with internal partitions installed without distortions.

Errors include poor-quality installation. As a rule, such violations arise due to the fact that the project was not carried out - there are no working drawings or load calculations. And this is a mandatory stage in such work. Qualified specialists perform electrical installation according to the finished project. In this case, the norms prescribed in the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of December 27, 2004 N 861 “On approval of the Rules of non-discriminatory access...” are always taken into account. According to these rules, three phases of 15 kW are standardly connected.

Also, do not forget that installing an input circuit breaker on a switchboard does not replace installing the same device in the house. The machines perform the task of reliable switching devices for quickly turning on/off the entire network.

A qualified electrician will calculate the cost of the complete panel, taking into account all installed devices of the required power.

It’s hard to imagine coziness and comfort in a private house or apartment without an established power supply system. Electricity consumption is constantly increasing, making it more difficult to protect people and pets from electric shock. Risks can be eliminated and the consequences of injuries can be minimized using a grounding system that connects points of the electrical network or energy consumer to a grounding structure.

Now recommendations from energy companies

As you understand, energy companies that sell electricity are only interested in one thing, so that their electricity is not stolen, hence the recommendations.

The electricity metering unit must be installed outdoors, on the facade of the house or on a special stand, including a support;
The metering unit cabinet must be locked;
The metering cabinet and rack must be re-grounded;
The neutral wire is also re-grounded;
A circuit breaker must be installed in the metering cabinet, after the meter, to protect the supply line;

And now the very desirable advice from energy companies:

The cabinet should contain an electronic electricity meter with a pulse output and a controller that automatically transmits data to the transformer substation.
In addition, the cabinet locking device must have a reed switch relay, which also transmits data when this metering cabinet is opened. This is what I described, the desire of all selling companies and regulatory authorities to install an ASKUE system (automatic electricity metering control system) everywhere.

Installation of ASKUE system in a cottage village

Installing an input panel on a support - a legal issue

1. Firstly, the subscriber withdrawal is done with the permission of the energy supply organization and the project approved by it. In such a situation, it is quite possible, on their part, to both prohibit such an installation, and vice versa, to strongly recommend such an installation of the input panel.

This is why you can see entire villages with the same type of installation of input metering and distribution boards on supports near houses, or quite the opposite.

2. Secondly, there are no regulatory documents that would prohibit or even recommend installing input devices with a metering meter on the supports of subscriber taps.

Of course, it is beneficial for administrations at all levels when metering meters are located outside residential premises and are available for control at any time and do not depend on the mood of the owner of the house whether to let the inspector in or not. Such an installation can at least somehow combat the theft of electricity.

conclusions

If there is a desire and a strong recommendation from the selling organization to “install a meter outside the house,” it is placed in the input device cabinet and taken out of the site.
The input device cabinet is re-grounded.
A switching device or fuses are installed before the metering meter.
After the metering meter, circuit breakers are installed, which are called input circuit breakers;
As additional protection, SPDs are installed in the water shield installed on the support;
The VU cabinet with a metering unit must have a window for reading meter readings, and the cabinet door must be locked and sealed.

Sources

https://RozetkaOnline.ru/podkljuchenie-i-ustanovka/item/219-sborka-shchita-ucheta-380v-s-protivopozharnym-uzo-dlya-chastnogo-doma-sistema-zazemleniya-tn-cs
https://samelectrik.ru/kak-ustanovit-shhit-ucheta-na-opore.html
https://profelektrika.ru/uslugi/montazh-avtomatiki/na-stolbakh.html
https://sovet-ingenera.com/elektrika/schetchiki/ulichnyj-yashhik-dlya-elektroschetchika.html
https://Proekt-sam.ru/proektsistem/ustanovka-sshetchika-elektroenergii-na-stolb-lep.html
https://electric-stupino.ru/%D1%83%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D1% 81%D1%87%D0%B5%D1%82%D1%87%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D1%81%D1%82%D0% BE%D0%BB%D0%B1%D0%B5/
https://ehto.ru/elektrika-chastnogo-doma/elektrika-derevyannogo-doma/ustanovka-vvodnogo-shhita-na-opore

[collapse]