Which wire is better to use for wiring in an apartment and in a private wooden house?

Section diameter is an indicator of cable power

Physical laws say that the maximum amount of current that this conductor can conduct through itself without heating depends on the cross-sectional diameter of the conductor. If you try to conduct a current more than the limit figure, this will lead to heating of the conductor, and the greater the current and the duration of the “session”, the higher the temperature.

For a residential subscriber, the above is interpreted as follows.

The diameter of the cable cross-section means the maximum permissible number of kilowatts (kW) that can be consumed in the apartment. That is, which and how many electrical appliances can operate simultaneously. The larger the diameter, the more devices can be used simultaneously without any fear for life and health. Theoretically, it is possible to “hang” more power on the cable than its diameter allows. But in this case, heating of the current-carrying conductor, damage to the insulation, followed by the effects of burnout, combustion... ignition, is inevitable.

Therefore, the choice of the cross-section of the input cable must be approached with all seriousness: after all, both the safety and ease of use of household electrical appliances depend on it.

Which conductor to use for installing electrical wiring in an apartment?

Various cable sections

In most houses built in the mid-to-late last century, entrances and internal communications were made of aluminum. Preference was given to this metal because of its low cost, which was crucial in conditions of mass construction on a national scale. Subsequently, this decision played its evil role, thanks to the numerous disadvantages of aluminum.

The most unpleasant properties of metal:

1. Fragility. The veins break after just 2-3 bends. This phenomenon is encountered during frequent replacement of switches and sockets.
2. Low electrical conductivity. Because of this, the line often heats up and the insulation melts. The occurrence of fires for this reason is not uncommon.
3. Oxidation. Over time, a film with dielectric properties appears on the surface of the metal. Because of this, connections in contacts and twists lose electrical conductivity. Over time, contact may disappear completely.

Copper wires are resistant to mechanical damage

Advantages of copper:

1. Elasticity. Wires can be bent and twisted up to 100 times before they break.
2. Durability. Copper does not change its characteristics throughout the entire period of operation of the building, which is 50-100 years.
3. Excellent electrical conductivity. Thanks to this, it is possible to use a conductor with a smaller cross-section, which has a positive effect on the price of the product.
4. Flexibility. This quality helps to pull cables through narrow channels without resorting to gouging walls.

In addition to its high cost, metal has one drawback - it oxidizes and becomes covered with a patina, which does not conduct electricity well. You can prevent this phenomenon from occurring in advance by soldering the contacts with tin.

Thus, when choosing a cable for sockets in an apartment, you need to opt for products with copper conductors.

Section calculation algorithm

There is a proven diagram for calculating the cross-section of the input cable, which is used in design. It is based on the postulate that the cross-sectional diameter of the input cable is selected depending on the expected power of all devices operating in the apartment.

Stage 1: Inventory

At the first stage, a list of electrical appliances that are present in the apartment is compiled. It is assumed what equipment will be purchased in the future and the list is expanded. Assumptions, of course, are best made with a reasonable margin for the long-term future. Each device is assigned an approximate power consumption.

You can use a table that roughly shows a list of typical household electrical appliances and their approximate power consumption.

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Stage 2: Simple Arithmetic

Next, the total cardinality of our list is calculated. The approximate power required for lighting is added, depending on the size of the apartment, the expected lighting intensity, and the expected type of lighting fixtures.

The resulting figure is an estimate of the power consumption in the apartment for the case if all devices are turned on at the same time. However, such a situation is very unlikely, and therefore in electrical engineering it is generally accepted that a maximum of 75% of the available equipment is turned on at the same time. And the resulting total power is multiplied by a factor of 0.75, and the resulting figure is taken as the basis for calculating the cross-section of the input cable.

Stage 3: Logic and Physics

Currently, electrical cable cores are made of copper and aluminum. There are formula relations that connect the maximum permissible current (and, accordingly, power) for a copper cable with the diameter of its cross-section. For standard copper cable sizes, there are calculated current and maximum power ratings for 220V and 380V AC. The following table provides these figures in a "usable" form.

Let us assume that the calculated power of all devices is 12 kW, and with a coefficient of 0.75 - 9 kW. It turns out that you need to choose a cable for which the maximum permissible power will be at least 9 kW. For a voltage of 220 V, a cross-section with a diameter of 6 mm is required - it is capable of passing a current of 46 A and a power of 10.1 kW. For the smaller cross-section from the table - 4 mm - the maximum permissible current is 38 A, and the power is 8.3 kW. This is less than necessary, so a cable of this cross-section will not work and you should stop at a 6-mm cross-section.

If you choose a cable with a larger cross-section than necessary, this will provide a good reserve for the future (for example, the emergence of new powerful household appliances) and a reserve for wear. However, you should also not exceed the rated power too much: this will affect the cost of the input cable, and the input cable may turn out to be more powerful than the internal electrical wiring, which is not reasonable and safe.

What else is needed

A machine must be installed on the input cable, which will be tasked with turning off the power supply if the current approaches the maximum permissible level. The rating of the machine is selected slightly less than the maximum permissible current through the input cable: in this way an additional degree of protection is provided. In this example, you should install a 40 A machine.

So, the parameters of the input cable require careful selection. Errors threaten, for example, a “bottleneck” situation - when all the home electrical wiring is powerful enough, but the input cable is not able to provide the required power. The cross-sectional diameter of the input cable is selected taking into account the total power of electrical appliances that will be used in the room. In order for all the nuances to be taken into account and the input cable to serve for many years without any emergencies, it is better to entrust the reconstruction of the electrical wiring to professional electricians.

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How to calculate cable length?

Using the diagram, you can make approximate calculations of the amount of cable if the exact dimensions of the rooms are taken into account. But they should be clarified and double-checked by transferring the diagram from paper to the walls. And this procedure is also carried out by professionals to determine as accurately as possible the placement of all sockets and switches, as well as the cables connecting them.

There are no clear standards at what height from the floor and at what distance from the corners the wires should run. Until recently, in Eastern Europe it was customary to install sockets at the level of the lowered arm, and switches at eye level, but it is now difficult to say where such standards came from.

Today, construction manuals typically provide the following information:

• Sockets are installed 30–35 centimeters from the floor (or 40–45 cm from the interfloor ceiling). Although they can be installed directly on baseboards, then the sockets must be special.
• The switches are at a height of about 90 cm, so that they can be used with their hands down and are also convenient for children.

It is important to note that these are standards for living rooms. For the kitchen, for example, they are different. Most of these rooms are occupied by countertops and cabinets, so sockets will need to be placed somewhere between them or even inside - hidden socket blocks in the form of a book or a “column” that rises when you press the lid are popular today.

*(This is not yet the most complex option for distributing sockets and switches in the kitchen)

There are also rules for bathtubs, in which sockets and switches are not placed at all, and everything is taken out of bounds. And if they are placed, then they are special, resistant to constant humidity and temperature changes.

For other rooms, the rules for laying the wiring are simple - the line should go straight down from the socket or switch (or up if the network is located under the ceiling). No ladders, corners or diagonal placements are allowed due to the danger of forgetting the location and then running into cables if you need to make a hole in the wall.

And to understand what wiring placement standards are in effect now, it’s worth studying this table and the picture below.

*(A visual demonstration of the usual distances from various objects to power lines)

Why determine the cross section?

First of all, if the wire is of too small a cross-section, it will not be able to withstand a large consumption load. It will heat up frequently, resulting in:

• Deterioration of insulation.
• Damage to contacts on terminals.

This increases the risk of a short circuit significantly.

Also, not many people know that wires that differ in their cross-section also differ in prices. Therefore, it is worth doing the calculation in order not to overpay for material with excessive parameters.

*(Here is only a part of the existing wire sections, so choosing at random will be difficult)

It is important not to forget that the wires also differ in purpose, but this is easy to figure out if you know the correct color layout. It is suggested in the table below.

How to make calculations?

All the lines that appear on the apartment diagram come out of the access panel that distributes energy. And each of the designated lines inside has two devices:

1. Automatic with suitable power.
2. RCD.

In addition to this, there is always a common machine and a common RCD. The operation of this equipment depends on the total load on the network section limited to one room. It can be calculated by having in hand a list of all household appliances and other devices that will be used in the apartment.

*(This is how the described connection diagram for RCDs and automatic machines looks clear)

Usually the calculation occurs according to a very simple algorithm:

1. The average power consumption is taken from the passport of each device.
2. All these values ​​are added up, as if assuming that all devices will be connected to the network at the same time.

This will give you the total maximum power. And if there are no passports for some equipment, then this is not a problem - you can use the average power of other similar devices or look for the necessary data in average power tables, like the one proposed below.

But that is not all. Now you need to calculate the load current on the circuit section. To do this, you will again need a diagram where the equipment is distributed among the rooms.

For example, you need to make a calculation for a children's room in which they will constantly work:

1. TV – 150 W.
2. Warm floor – 1 kW.
3. Night light – 100 W.

The total power per room is calculated using the formula:

I sum = P sum/U, where I sum is the total current in the room, P sum is the power of all electrical appliances when connected at the same time, and U is the usual voltage in the network, that is, 220 V.

*(Wire cross-section table)

Then in the designated nursery Isum will be equal to 5.7 A. And given that the network is not too loaded and does not have many branches, additional calculations are not required here. Just in case, another 5 A is added to the resulting number, and then everything is rounded up. This will give you 11 A for the nursery.

All that remains is to take the table proposed above and find a suitable cross-section of the copper cable. In the example, the load turned out to be ideally suited for a cross-section of 0.5 mm and one single-core wire is enough.

It is worth noting that special sockets are often purchased for children's rooms, the protection on which will not allow inquisitive minds to conduct their first lesson in learning about electricity. And if there are often small children in the house, then such sockets can be installed wherever young naturalists can reach them.

*(It is recommended to place sockets of this type in children's rooms)

What should be the cross-section of wires in apartment wiring?

Recently, visitors to our site contacted us with a request to dwell in more detail on such an issue as the cross-section of wires in a city apartment. This is the reason for the appearance of this article, which, I hope, will be useful for those who are planning to make repairs or are simply concerned about the state of the electrical wiring in their home.

Even an uninitiated person understands that the size of the cross-section is determined by the total power of the devices connected to the intra-apartment electrical network. Its different sections are subject to different loads, according to which the thickness of the cable should be selected, which can be:

1. Introductory.
2. Powering an electric stove or hob.
3. Serving socket groups.
4. Powering lighting fixtures.

It is from the above division that I will proceed when talking about what cross-section a cable laid in a certain part of the apartment wiring should have.

If you are planning to install electrical wiring in your apartment with your own hands, be sure to read this article! It will help you avoid a large number of possible mistakes.

Common connection errors

We list several common mistakes when connecting an electric stove, which lead to failure of the device, fires and electric shocks:

1. Connection via a regular socket and 16 A plugs. For devices with a power of more than 3.5 kW, special power components are used.
2. Connection through a simple automatic circuit breaker with a thermal release without the use of an RCD or automatic circuit breaker.
3. Using an undersized cable. This error leads to overheating of the wiring and its burnout.
4. Connecting the stove to a common distribution box without a dedicated power line from the panel.
5. Missing phase jumper on one of the terminals. As a result, half of the burners may not work, or the stove may not turn on at all, if this contact was responsible for supplying voltage to the control.

Residential input cable cross-section

The power per input cable and, accordingly, the strength of the current carried by it is limited by the amount of allocated power, determined by Energosbyt and controlled by the input machine. Its response threshold is usually 25A. Most often, in apartment buildings, incoming automatic machines are installed in electrical panels outside apartments. The cable laid from the machine inside the living quarters is precisely the introductory one, which I will now talk about.

In apartments, the cross-section of the input cable can be:

• in single-phase networks - copper cable 3 × 10 mm 2 (three-core - phase, ground and neutral; 10 mm 2 for each core) paired with a 50 A circuit breaker;
• in three-phase networks - copper cable 5 × 4 mm 2 (five-core - three phases, ground and zero; 2.5 mm 2 for each core) paired with a 25 A circuit breaker.

The power supplied may vary depending on the age of the building and whether it has gas or electric stoves. Indirect evidence of the real value of this parameter can be the nominal value of the machine at the entrance to the apartment. In any case, you will never regret if the wires indicated just above are used as the input cable.

What type and brand of conductor to choose for the socket

When choosing a wire, you need to pay attention to the type and brand of conductors. Today you can find a large number of counterfeit products on the construction market, so you need to be extremely careful, the safety of your home depends on it

Do not buy PUNP wire (universal flat wire) for installing sockets; the following brands will be safer:

• VVG is a double-insulated PVC-based cable that does not have the ability to self-extinguish. Suitable for sockets.
• VVGng - insulated PVC wires with double protection, the last part of the abbreviation “ng” means that the wire has polyvinyl chloride insulation that prevents combustion. It is recommended to use the cable in wooden rooms.
• VVGng-LS - in this case, halogen-free PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is used, which is not capable of emitting smoke. Such wires can be used in children's rooms and institutions; in the event of a short circuit, children will not inhale acrid smoke.
• NYM - (N) German quality (Y) insulated PVC (M) installation cable. Expensive analogue of VVGng from German developers.

• For washing machines, computers and other devices with low power, wires for VVG sockets with a cross section of 3 * 2.5 mm2 are suitable. The number “3” indicates the number of wires in the windings.
• To connect electrical appliances with high power in a three-phase network, an oven, a pump, it is necessary to use VVG 5 * 2.5 mm2.
• In a wooden house, it is recommended to connect VVGng 3*2.5 mm2 to sockets.
• There are various lamps and sconces for sockets, in this case the cross-section and quantity of wire for sockets can be 3 * 1.5 mm2.

For more information on selecting wires for sockets, watch this video:

Cable for apartment sockets

The optimal cross-section of wires serving apartment socket groups is 2.5 mm 2. This allows them to withstand currents of up to 27 A, which corresponds to a total power of approximately 6 kW. The use of conductors with a larger cross-section, for example, 4 mm 2, is impractical because:

1. Such cables simply cannot fit into the terminals of socket mechanisms.
2. Laying such cables is significantly more expensive and is not economically feasible.

And there is no practical need for thicker cables, because... It is rare to find household electrical appliances plugged into an outlet whose power exceeds 3.5 kW. Thus, by placing cables with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 in the wiring of the socket groups, you can sleep peacefully: they are able to withstand any electrical appliances, even if they operate for a long time.

Which cable to choose for an apartment? How and where to lay it

Sockets consume more electricity (after all, we connect quite powerful electrical appliances to them), which is why they heat up. In this regard, the wires to them and to the room lighting from the electrical separation box must be laid separately.

If we talk about stationary electrical appliances that have quite a lot of power, it is necessary to choose the cable cross-section as large and separately as possible. What kind of devices are these? We are talking about a washing machine, electric stove, microwave, etc. The wire cross-section for such devices should be 4 mm square. When you have decided on the cross-section and type of cable, before purchasing, carefully measure the required footage for your apartment. Yes, in case of a slight shortage, the wires can be joined, but this is highly undesirable. Therefore, it is better to have a little more than not enough.

Next, you can move on to the issue of cut-off machines and distribution boxes (they are needed, one for each room of the dwelling, and it is necessary to correctly route the wires from the cut-off machine to each distribution box).

Lighting system wire cross-section

Surely, you yourself understand that lighting fixtures place the least amount of stress on apartment electrical wiring. Therefore, a wire cross-section of 1.5 mm 2 is quite sufficient for a standard apartment in an apartment building. However, when laying the wiring, you should be absolutely sure that the total load of each lighting group does not exceed 3.5 kW. Due to the traditionally low load, all apartment lighting, as a rule, is reduced to one group, served by a 1.5 mm 2 cable.

A wire cross-section of 1.5 mm2 is quite sufficient for wiring that supplies power to lighting fixtures

So, to summarize, I’ll just remind you of the bare numbers. Most often, the cross-section of wires in a city apartment is:

• input cable – 3×10 mm 2 (single-phase network), 5×2.5 mm 2 (three-phase network);
• electric stove (hob) – 3×6 mm 2 (single-phase network), 5×2.5 mm 2 (three-phase network);
• rosette groups – 3×2.5 mm 2;
• lighting devices – 3×1.5 mm 2.

However, I must emphasize the phrase “most often” that I used. If you initially plan to install very powerful devices in your apartment, then before laying the electrical wiring you should make the necessary calculations so as not to make a mistake in choosing cables of the required cross-section. The best option is to contact a professional electrician.

Correct replacement of input in Khrushchev

Good afternoon I am planning to replace the electrical wiring in the Khrushchev building. How to properly replace the entrance to an apartment? The old aluminum cable from the panel in the entrance is hidden under the plaster. I plan to take a VVGng 3x10 cable, put it in a metal corrugation and run it from the access panel outside along the wall to my apartment. What cross-section should I choose for a cable: 3x10 mm2 or 3x6 mm2?

And another question: when replacing old wiring, is it worth running a three-core cable to the sockets? There is no grounding in Khrushchev-era apartment buildings, and I doubt that during the next major renovation there will be one, if only we all the residents of the entrance get together and plug in the grounding loop in the basement ourselves and run it along the riser with a separate cable (and that’s unlikely, the grannies of the neighbors save every ruble, and I’ve never heard of grounding do not want). Therefore, I’m thinking of pulling a two-wire VVGng, and installing a difavtomat on dangerous lines, so that at least something will save in the event of a leak. What do you think? Thank you in advance!

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Wire cross-section for entry into the apartment

Hello, I would like to rehang the panel in an apartment (new building, complete renovation) and accordingly I need to lengthen the input a little. I'm thinking of replacing it completely. Thinking about the section. The input is limited by a circuit breaker in the floor switchboard at 63A. On the Internet, or rather on Mastercity, there are two links to PUE tables » > » > According to the first, I need a section of 16 squares, and according to the second, 10 is enough. The question arose, how much is needed?

Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a cable with a non-undersized cross-section, so it is advisable to choose 16 mm2, because according to table 19 GOST R 53769-2010 back-to-back 10 mm2 is 63 A

At the same time, formally 10 mm2 is just 63 A, so it is an acceptable option, however, keep in mind that the machine can pass 1.45 nominal for up to 1 hour, and for a cable over several minutes this is no longer a short-term excess of current and Overheating may occur and damage the insulation.

In short, 16 mm2 is better, but 10 mm2 is also acceptable.

Quite right - 16 squares.

Alexiy wrote: At the same time, formally 10 mm2 is just 63 A, so it is an acceptable option, however, keep in mind that the machine can pass 1.45 nominal values ​​​​up to 1 hour, and for a cable over several minutes - this is no longer short-term excess current and possible overheating, which will damage the insulation.

as an option, use a -FRLS cable; it has a permissible core temperature of 90C for several hours instead of 70 and allows emergency overloads. but at the price of 16mm2 it might be cheaper.

So as not to think about it in the future. AB 40A - 6mm2 AB 50A - 10mm2 AB 63A - 16mm2 AB 80A - 16mm2

correct me if I'm wrong av 10a - 1.5 mm2 av 16a - 2.5 mm2 av 25a - 4.0 mm2 av 32a - 6.0 mm2 av 40a - 6.0 mm2 (I doubt it) av 50a - 10.0 mm2 av 63a - 10.0 mm2 av 80a - 16.0 mm2

Ok, thanks everyone. In general, if the wire is from the market, then it’s definitely 16 squares.

And a related question, so as not to clutter up with topics, is it necessary to use corrugation when laying wires in a screed? After all, the medium is fireproof, cooling is better and the diameter is smaller. VVG cable, house - monolith.

StarWind wrote: Ok, thanks everyone. In general, if the wire is from the market, then it’s definitely 16 squares.

And a related question, so as not to clutter up with topics, is it necessary to use corrugation when laying wires in a screed? After all, the medium is fireproof, cooling is better and the diameter is smaller. VVG cable, house - monolith.

The corrugation will save you in case of emergency. if a crack forms in the screed, which will easily rupture the outer sheath of the cable.

user0552 wrote: correct me if I'm wrong av 10a - 1.5 mm2 av 16a - 2.5 mm2 av 25a - 4.0 mm2 av 32a - 6.0 mm2 av 40a - 6.0 mm2 (I doubt it) av 50a - 10.0 mm2 av 63a - 10.0 mm2 av 80a - 16.0 mm2

63 A - 16 mm kV 80 A - 25 mm kV Ampere must be capitalized - this is the person’s last name.

Alexiy wrote: Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a cable with a non-undersized cross-section

Well, why: when I bought a cable for myself - and this is about 100 m, I did not hesitate to take a caliper with me and before buying I measured the diameter of the cores

Alexiy wrote: Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a cable with a non-undersized cross-section.

If you need 4mm, take the one that says “6 mm”, if you need 1.5 mm, buy it, which is passed off as “2.5 mm”, and so on. But it's better to do this:

Magirus wrote: without hesitation, he took a caliper with him and measured the diameter of the cores before purchasing

Magirus wrote: I took a caliper with me and measured the diameter of the cores before purchasing

there is an error of 0.05, and this. 1.79mm is 2.5mm2, and 1.74 is 2.35mm2 (narrower), but in real life you can easily make a mistake by a factor of ten with such a rough instrument for these measurements, and this. 1.69 - 2.25mm2 I measured 5 or more options with a micrometer - the best that was 2.4, the worst - 2 with microns (!). At the stated 2.5mm. And 6ka pvs turned out to be generally less than 5 (something around 4.7-4.8, emnip).

Tsypra, approximately, from memory, was a long time ago.

I wonder if you measured the PVC correctly?

lightning wrote: If you need 4mm, take the one that says “6 mm”, if you need 1.5 mm, buy it, which is passed off as “2.5 mm” and so on.

Most manufacturers cruelly cut the multi-core, taking advantage of the difficulty of measuring resistance and cross-section. For example, I buy PVA 2.5 and get the real 1.35. I checked one core with a micrometer and multiplied. Monofilament is not cut so cruelly.

I wrote about monocore

helios1969 wrote: there is an error of 0.05, and this. 1.79mm is 2.5mm2, and 1.74 is 2.35mm2 (narrower), but in real life you can easily make a mistake by a factor of ten with such a rough instrument for these measurements, and this. 1.69 - 2.25mm2 I measured 5 or more options with a micrometer - the best that was 2.4, the worst - 2 with microns (!). At the stated 2.5mm. And 6ka pvs turned out to be generally less than 5 (something around 4.7-4.8, emnip).

Tsypra, approximately, from memory, was a long time ago.

Well, as if I didn’t think about the error of measurements with a caliper. You're right. But I have a bar with a pitch of 0.02 mm

Well, at least the blatant bullshit is already “cut off.”

Yes, there are still many factors to take into account: we bought a VVG-NG 2 x 2.5 cable from us in Kyiv - “Odessa cable” - it looks good, it bends with effort. And then I bought more from Leroy Merlin - it’s like Dneprpetrovsk does, but in appearance - the outer shell is visually thinner and the veins bend like tin (roughly how it feels). Either some kind of alloy, or, I also read, annealed copper or vice versa. But I’m not sure - someone who knows can correct me

Curious: why after the introductory 32A is there 40A (at the surge arrester)? Or: only for the refrigerator there is an AB 16A + RCD. Hmm, it’s probably like in a decent canteen, if for some reason the RCD goes off, the food won’t go rotten? Or on the gate AB 16A + RCD (probably a 5 kilowatt motor), the same thing - roller shutters? And the garage has no RCD. In fact, the loads, at least the ones indicated, are small. Why so many lines and RCDs is unclear. Or, apparently you like 4-pole AVs, but for some reason there are 3 at the input? I'm not saying there's anything wrong. Just commenting. And another question:

MIK wrote: The meaning of 1P+N machines has been described on the site more than once.

If possible, a link where this is described: I have never seen such a description. Curious to see what people think about this. But your explanation is wrong. The sum of AB currents after the RCD should not exceed In RCD. And further:

Metall wrote: Quote Message from SKL View message In front of each 25A RCD there should be an equal current circuit breaker, or better yet with a lower rating is not correct..

In this case, SKL is right. Perhaps Mr. Metall misunderstood what SKL wrote. Usually it sounds like this: “the rated current of the RCD should be chosen equal to, or one step higher than the rated current of the circuit breaker protecting this RCD.”

Electrolamp wrote: Ampere must be capitalized - this is the person’s last name

More precisely, apparently, like this: in the rules of the Russian language, abbreviations of basic units, if it is someone’s last name, are written with a capital letter, and subordinate units with a small letter, For example: ampere - A, kiloampere - kA, volt - V, kilovolt - kV etc. In any case, that’s what I was taught about 50 years ago. Now it may be different.

What to use - wire or cable?

“What’s the difference,” many will ask, because these are practically synonyms?

Not certainly in that way. There is a difference, and a very significant one.

• A wire is usually understood as a single-core or stranded conductor, which can have insulation or be produced without it at all (for example, for use in power lines). Most often, the wire sheath does not have additional protective functions, but is designed exclusively for insulating purposes. Resistance to external influences or aggressive environments is not the highest or is completely absent.

Even combining several insulated conductors under a common additional external insulation does not make the wire a cable at all.

• A cable is a collection of several high-quality insulated wires united by an outer sheath, which is assigned not so much insulating but protective functions. There can be several such braids; they can be multi-layered - polymer, metal, fiberglass. Additional filling of the space between the wires under the outer sheath is also practiced.

The presence of a protective sheath allows you to lay cables for the most difficult operating conditions. Well, in the context of this publication, the following can be noted. To lay hidden wiring, where it will be embedded in the walls, that is, it will experience mechanical, chemical, and thermal loads (due to the lack of a normal heat sink), only cables should be used. Wires are acceptable for switching in distribution boards or on groups of sockets, for connecting household appliances and lighting equipment, including in the form of power cords with plugs for plugging into sockets.

It should be noted that the difference described above is very difficult to understand. In particular, products are produced that are practically no different in appearance at first glance. But the manufacturer positions one as a cable, while the other is still called a wire.

On the left is a VVGng 3×2.5 cable, on the right is a PUMP wire with the same number of cores and their cross-section. The cable is suitable for laying hidden wiring, but the wire is completely unsuitable for this.

A classic example of such a pair is the VVG cable and the PUMP wire. Despite all the external similarities, for example, an equal number of conductors and their cross-section, the first one can be used for hidden wiring, but the second one definitely cannot, which has been proven more than once by sad practice. But some electricians still continue to “dabble” in this - this is understandable, since wire is always cheaper than cable. But both the internal insulation of the conductors and the outer sheath completely fall short of the levels of protection and fire safety required for the cable.

So, when purchasing materials, it is always worth clarifying how this type of product passes the existing official certification, whether it is a cable or a wire.

Input cable to the apartment cross-section according to the standards

The cable with which a consumer object (house, apartment, workshop, store, etc.) is connected to a power source is called an input cable. Most often, the input cable is connected directly to the electrical energy meter. To protect the meter, a circuit breaker may be installed in front of it, but such a scheme must be agreed upon with the electricity supplier and reflected in the technical specifications. In this case, the circuit breaker is sealed to prevent energy from being drawn to the meter.

How to choose the right cable for an outlet

The Electrical Installation Rules (ELR) provide the following strict guidelines for the correct use of cables for electrical outlets indoors:

• It should be copper (as this is the safest option);
• It must have grounding (there must be 3 or 5 cores inside the wire);
• The cross-section must be 1.5 mm2 or larger (less than that is prohibited).

By following these rules, you significantly reduce the risk of a fire or other unpleasant situation associated with improper use of wiring.

Optimal price-quality wires that can be installed in a residential area:

• VVG;
• NYM;
• VVGng;

Remember that the reliability of the system will depend on the cable you choose. Appliances can vary greatly in their power, so follow the guidelines below.

The cable cross-section is directly dependent on the power that will be connected to the electrical network. To guarantee safety, you can determine the most powerful electrical appliance in the room and use all cables that are suitable for this device in terms of parameters. For example, with a power of 2 kW you need to buy VVG 2x1.5 or VVG 3x1.5 cables. Each option must be accompanied by grounding.

There are a huge number of different types of cables for sockets, but experts advise using copper ones, because they are much safer to use. But it is worth noting that the price for these products is higher than for aluminum ones. In any case, you should not save on this product.

Input cable into the house - types of connection and choice of brand

The power supply to the house is connected from the power line, the connection is made on the nearest pole (support). In some cases, when power line supports are remote from the site (for example, they are located across the road from the connected house), it may be necessary to install an additional support.

The input cable can be laid in two ways:

by air, from the power line support to the input distribution device;

underground in a prepared trench.

Air input

. Over-the-air power supply can be carried out by cable or self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).

Most types of installation cables (VVG, AVVG, etc.) are not intended for air suspension without the use of additional support. Such a support can be a stretched steel cable or wire. In the first case, the wiring is called cable, in the second - string. The ends of the cable or string are attached to the overhead line support on one side and to the building structures at the entrance to the house on the other. The cable being laid is rigidly attached to a supporting steel cable or wire.

Bare, uninsulated wires of overhead power distribution lines are gradually being replaced by self-supporting insulated wires (SIP). Power lines with insulated wires (VLI) are more reliable. The use of SIP eliminates the most common types of damage to overhead lines with bare conductors - overlapping of wires and their shorting by foreign objects. SIP is the most preferred option for an over-the-air input wire, which can be used when connecting to both an overhead line (line with a bare wire) and a VLI (line with an insulated wire).

The aerial connection of the input cable to power lines up to 1000 volts is carried out using SIP - 2 or SIP - 4 wires. The neutral and phase conductors of these wires are insulated. The zero conductor of SIP-2 is equipped with a steel supporting core, on which the wire is suspended. SIP-4 does not have a core; when it is suspended, the load is carried by the current-carrying conductors themselves.

Underground input

. For laying in a trench, a cable is selected that can withstand the weight of the soil and the shear force that occurs during its settlement. Therefore, the most suitable for this purpose are the VBBbShv cable with copper conductors or the AVBbShv aluminum input cable. The core insulation of these types of cables is made of PVC plastic. On top of the insulated cores there is a layer of PVC or unvulcanized rubber filling and an inner polyvinyl chloride sheath. This is followed by armor made of galvanized steel tape and an external pressed-out protective hose. VBBShV and AVBBShV conductors can be made single-wire or multi-wire, and the cross-section of the conductor can be in the shape of a circle or a sector.

Features of air and underground input. The advantages and disadvantages of installing the input cable over the air and underground are reflected in the table:

over-the-air input cable

over-the-air input cable

Types of cable

PUNP. The Moscow manufacturer is considered one of the best because it makes the insulation much thicker than most other manufacturers with similar cables. Most common in residential areas. It is an analogue of VVG, but has insulation of poorer quality.

NUM. The best manufacturers are Concord and Sevkabel. Consists of single-wire copper conductors. It is quite soft and easy to install. Has a high level of fire safety.

VVG. The most optimal option in terms of price-quality ratio. It is a power cable that consists of single-wire copper conductors. May be non-flammable if "ng" is present in the name. Very convenient for installation. Can be used even in damp areas.

So, we looked at the most common varieties. Which cable is best to use depends on your needs and goals.

Input cable to the apartment

General-purpose installation cables, such as VVG, are used as the input cable into the apartment. For systems with a working and protective neutral wire, the number of cable cores must be at least three.

The apartment input cable connects the floor panel and the apartment panel. In old-type houses, there may be no internal panel, and distribution within the apartment is carried out through connection boxes. When carrying out renovations in an old apartment, it is advisable to provide for the installation of an interior panel.

Important to know: Cable entry into the apartment is carried out using a two-wire or three-wire circuit. Input into apartments of modern houses is carried out using the TN–S or TN–C–S system using three wires:

L - phase conductor;

N - working neutral conductor;

PE - protective neutral wire.

In old houses, a TN-C grounding system is implemented, in which the working and protective neutral wires are combined, that is, power is supplied through two wires - L and PEN.

Existing types of products

It is difficult to unambiguously answer the question of what wires and cables are needed for wiring in the residential premises of an apartment, since such work requires various types of similar products.

According to current safety regulations, all household appliances and sockets must be grounded. Therefore, in apartments, a three-core cable is installed everywhere, having a “phase”, “zero” and “ground”

For the lighting circuit, which receives the least load from the electrical network, a cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 is suitable. For it, it is enough to provide a 10 A (2.3 kW) circuit breaker.

For sockets, the load in which can reach up to 3-4 kW, it is necessary to take products with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm, capable of withstanding current up to 27 A and power 5.9 kW.

However, you should not load the line to such limits: for correct operation, a reserve of one third of the planned load is required. In this case, you will need a switch rated at 16 A (3.6 kW).

If you plan to install an outlet for an electric stove (hob), you need to lay a cable with a cross-section of 6 square meters. mm for power up to 10.1 kW.

In this case, it is important to select an appropriate machine designed for an electric current of 32 A (voltage 7.3 kW). When choosing the parameters of the input cable to the apartment, it is important to take into account the power allocated to the apartment

As a rule, in this case it is necessary to use a product with a cross section of 6-10 square meters. mm

When choosing the parameters of the input cable to the apartment, it is important to take into account the power allocated to the apartment. As a rule, in this case it is necessary to use a product with a cross section of 6-10 sq.

mm.