How to calculate the cross-section of wires when connecting spotlights through a transformer?

terms of Use

In an apartment and private house

When choosing a cable for electrical wiring, most often the same brand is used for sockets, lighting and individual powerful consumers. Therefore, you can use the same option for the light as for the socket group. The most popular cable for lighting in apartments and houses is VVG. When installing hidden wiring, it is one of the best options. In a wooden house, you should use a cable that does not propagate combustion - VVGng, VVGng-LS or NYM.

On the street or in the garage

First you need to decide how the wiring will be laid. The fact is that with open wiring, the cable is laid in pipes or in corrugation. In the case of underground installation, you can use armored cables or ordinary ones, but laid in a PVC pipe. For lighting in the garage, the recommendations are similar - laying external wiring in a protective corrugation, it will protect the wire from mechanical damage and rodents

You can use 2 or 3 wire wire. Using a 3-core wire will make it possible to install two groups of lamps by connecting another phase to the third core. Also, a three-wire wire is mandatory to use if there is grounding. If you do not have a ground connection, it is still better to use a three-core conductor when installing the wiring so that there is no need to change the cable in the future.

On the balcony or porch of the house

In the case of installing a street lamp on the porch, the lighting wire can be laid both internally and externally. And in the case of installation in the wall, the VVG 2x0.75 cable is perfect. For external laying, you can use the same, but be sure to lay it in a protective corrugation or pipe. Also suitable in this case is a round wire of the PVA brand or a flat SHVVP - they are flexible and will be easier to insert into the corrugation.

Important! When using a wire with a stranded core, the ends that will be connected to the lamp, if you use a screw terminal block, must be tinned or terminated with NShVI type lugs. If you use WAGO terminals, this is not necessary

In the garden

The wire for connecting lighting in the garden must be laid overhead or underground. Air laying in this case is not always possible, because it requires posts; it is also possible to lay wires along the fence. In this case, the recommendations are as follows:

If several groups of powerful lamps are intended to illuminate the entire area, then VVG 3x1.5 or flexible wire grades listed above will be suitable.
The cable must be protected with corrugation.

For laying cables in a trench, a variant of the VBBShV brand is suitable - this is an armored copper cable. It is suitable for digging into the ground without additional protection, if there is no heavy load on the soil. That is, if you are laying a cable in the ground under a parking area for cars, it is better to protect it in this area by laying it in a HDPE pipe or PVC sewer pipe. In underground pipes, you can use both the VVG brand and other “unprotected” brands of wires.

In the bathhouse or toilet

A special feature of connecting light in a bathhouse or sauna is high humidity and temperature. Therefore, it is recommended to use RKGM heat-resistant wire for lighting, laid in a plastic corrugation. This way you will receive protection from damage to the cores, as well as from melting of the insulation when operating at high temperatures. The calculation of the cross-section of the wire cores in this case is no different from the previous options.

To connect the light in the bathroom, you can use both RKGM and the above brands of cable products, but it is recommended to use internal wiring or use cable channels for external wiring.

Important! All junction boxes must be sealed because high humidity areas increase the risk of electric shock. If possible, preference should be given to lamps that are powered by 12V.

2Thu, 6 Mar 2008 21:48

Minimum cross-sections of copper conductors: - for fixed wiring - 1.5 mm sq. — for flexible connections = 0.75 mm sq. This data is from GOST for electrical wiring. There are, of course, “craftsmen” who use twisted pair cables for lighting, but this does not mean that it is correct.

ANT wrote:

This statement is fundamentally incorrect. It may not be a complete short circuit, but a significant decrease in insulation resistance and the currents will be unpredictable... and your 0.5 wire will be “welded”... But in the lamp itself you can use 0.75 conductors - this is allowed by GOST.

Mounting options

The cable for spotlights must be laid in gray PVC corrugation along the rough ceiling.

It does not spread fire, protects conductors and allows you to use dowel clamps or clips to quickly attach the wire to the ceiling.

However, spotlights are installed not only in the living room or bedroom, but also in the bathroom. Bathrooms are rooms with high humidity, which raises certain requirements for the electrical safety of your wiring. Firstly, all switches, junction boxes and sockets must be moved outside the bathroom or at least outside zone I. If sockets still cannot be avoided, use the recommendations described in the article: sockets in the bathroom.

Secondly, to reduce the risk of electric shock, use lamps that are powered by 12V voltage, especially if the lamps are installed in close proximity to a sink, shower or bathtub.

You can use 220V lamps if they are waterproof or if they are located in a place remote from the listed objects.

Also, be sure to watch the video in which a specialist explains how to correctly lay wires to spotlights and what mistakes you should not make:

In conclusion, I would like to consolidate the material presented.
So, which cable is better to use for connecting spotlights, and which not? Almost all experts agree that, in terms of its purpose and technical characteristics, the VVGng-LS cable is best suited for these tasks. The cross section is usually used 1.5 square meters. mm. for lighting lines, however, modern lamps consume little - you can use 0.75 sq. mm. But take into account the lower mechanical strength of the conductors and the actual current load, with high power consumption. Lay it along the ceiling in a corrugated pipe that does not support combustion and do not forget about a reliable connection of the wires. Material taken from the site: https://samelectrik.ru/

General principles for installing a spotlight

According to existing norms and standards, the wiring for such lamps is hidden directly in the thickness of the wall. This approach allows you to get rid of hanging wires that visually “clutter” the interior space of the room. However, you should not only accurately calculate the location of the wire, but also document it in any convenient way.

In order to make a groove for laying the power wire, you will need a hammer drill or drill with an impact bit. The thickness of the gutter should be about several centimeters, since some models of spotlights are equipped with a thick cable.

There are situations when the wire length is not enough to power the lighting source. It is not recommended to make “homemade” products and connect several wires into one. Specialized stores sell cables of various lengths, so you should use a ready-made option. If you decide to use this option, make sure that the connection is working and that the connection has been isolated.

Serial connection

You can connect spotlights in series, although this is not the best solution. Despite the fact that this type of connection requires a minimum number of wires, it is practically not used in everyday life. This is because it has two significant drawbacks:

The lamps do not glow at full strength because they are supplied with reduced voltage. How much reduced depends on the number of connected light bulbs. For example, if three lamps are connected to 220 V, you need to divide by 3. This means that each lamp receives 73 V. If 5 lamps are connected, divide by 5, etc.
If one light bulb burns out, all of them do not work. The cause of the malfunction can only be found by sequentially changing the light bulbs in the entire chain.

It is for these reasons that this type of connection is used exclusively in Christmas tree garlands, where a large number of low-power light sources are collected. You can, of course, use the first disadvantage: connect 18 or 19 12 V light bulbs in series to a 220 V network. In total they will give 220 V (with 18 pieces 216 V, with 19 - 228 V). In this case, you don’t need a transformer, which is a plus. But if one of them burns out (or even the contact deteriorates), it will take a long time to find the cause. And this is a big minus that negates all the positive aspects.

Diagram of serial connection of light bulbs (spotlights)

If you decide to connect spotlights in series, this is easy to do: the phase bypasses all the lamps one after another, zero is supplied to the second contact of the last bulb in the chain.

If we talk about the actual implementation, then the phase from the distribution box is supplied to the switch, from there to the first spotlight, from its second contact to the next... and so on until the end of the chain. The neutral wire is connected to the second contact of the last lamp.

Diagram of sequential connection of spotlights via a single-key switch

This scheme has one practical application - in the entrances of houses. You can connect two incandescent light bulbs in parallel to a regular 220 V network. They will glow incandescently, but will burn out extremely rarely.

Chandelier connection diagrams

Despite the variety of models, all chandeliers, including LED chandeliers with a remote control, are connected according to one of the schemes discussed below. To connect, it is enough to connect the wires coming out of the ceiling correctly to the terminals of the terminal installed on the chandelier body. The work is simple and can be done by any home handyman, even without electrical experience.

If there are 2 wires coming out of the ceiling and the chandelier

Connecting a single-arm chandelier, consisting of one light bulb, and a single-key switch in the electrical wiring usually does not cause difficulties. It is enough to connect two wires coming out of the ceiling using any type of terminal block with the wires coming out of the base of the chandelier.

Although, according to the requirements of the PUE, twisting of electrical wiring is currently prohibited, but in a hopeless situation, taking into account the fact that the chandelier consumes low current, you can temporarily connect the chandelier using the twisting method, followed by insulating the connection.

According to the requirements of the PUE, to increase operational safety, the phase wire in the electric cartridge must be connected to the central contact, and the switch must open the phase wire. It is advisable to follow this rule. But in practice, no one thinks about this; they usually connect the switch and chandelier as needed.

If there are 2 wires coming out of the ceiling and a multi-arm chandelier

If a chandelier has several arms, but only two wires come out of it, it means that all the light bulbs inside the chandelier are connected in parallel, and such a chandelier is connected according to the above diagram.

If there are 2 wires coming out of the ceiling, 3 or more from the chandelier

Let's consider a more complex option for connecting a chandelier; the wires in it are connected to make it possible to turn on each light bulb separately. For our case, all pairs of wires from the cartridges, regardless of their number, must be connected in parallel. One option is to install an additional jumper made of wire (pink in the photo).

You can do without installing a jumper. It is enough to unscrew the screws at the first and third terminals, remove the wire coming from the left socket from the first terminal, and insert it into the third, along with the right wire coming from the right socket.

If there are 3 wires coming out of the ceiling and 2 from the chandelier

Typically three wires come out of the ceiling if a two-gang switch is installed. First of all, you need to deal with the wires coming out of the ceiling - find the common wire. This is easy to do if you have a phase indicator.

To search for a common wire, you need to turn on both keys on the switch and sequentially touch each wire with an indicator probe. Depending on which wire opens the switch, phase or neutral, two options for the indicator’s behavior are possible.

When you touch two wires there is a glow, but not the third. In this case, the wire on which there is no glow is common.
When you touch one of the wires there is a glow, but not the other two. Then the wire on which there is a glow is common.

Without a phase indicator, it’s also easy to figure out the connection. You need to connect any two wires from the ceiling to the chandelier and turn on both switch keys. If the light comes on, it means that the connection has been made with the common wire and one of the wires coming from the switch. You can leave it like that. If you want to understand the wires completely, you need to brute-force the connection so that when both keys on the switch are turned on, the light does not come on. This way you can find the wires coming from the switch.

All that remains is to clamp the common wire and any other wire coming from the ceiling with a pair of chandelier wires into the terminal. If you need to connect a chandelier so that the light is turned on by any of the two switch keys, then place a jumper (pink in the photo) or clamp the wires, which are connected by a jumper in the photo, in one terminal. The jumper can be installed not in the terminal block, but in the switch.

If there are 3 wires coming out of the ceiling, several from the chandelier

If you want not all the bulbs of a multi-light chandelier to turn on at the same time, but in groups, then the chandelier must be connected according to the diagram below. A prerequisite is the presence of a two-key switch. You need to connect a two- or three-arm chandelier according to the method described above. A common wire is determined from three coming out of the ceiling. One wire from pairs coming from each chandelier socket is connected to it.

The remaining two wires are connected to the remaining free conductors from the pairs coming from the chandelier sockets. It will be much easier to cope with connecting a multi-arm chandelier if you become familiar with its structure.

Connection diagram for 2-3 chandeliers from a single-key switch

In a large room, or if there is a suspended ceiling, for good lighting you have to install several chandeliers or spotlights mounted in the ceiling, which must be turned on simultaneously with one single-key switch.

Sometimes it is necessary to connect the switch in such a way that it can turn on the lights in two, three or more rooms at the same time. In this case, chandeliers or lamps are connected in parallel, like several sockets in one chandelier, according to the following diagram.

Each chandelier in the diagram is connected to the switch through a separate junction box, but all connections can be made in one junction box, it all depends on the wiring diagram in the room. If each chandelier has many horns, then they are connected in parallel, as for the connection case discussed above, when two wires come out of the ceiling, and three or more from the chandelier.

Connection diagram for three chandeliers from one three-key switch

If in one or more rooms you need to turn on each chandelier separately from one three-key switch, then you should connect the chandeliers according to the diagram below.

This option for connecting lamps is often used to control lamps installed in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. One three-key switch is installed in the corridor, and the corresponding chandelier is turned on before entering the room.

Connecting a chandelier to a Viko switch block with a socket

Sometimes it is necessary to install an additional socket next to the switch. If necessary, it is advisable to replace the installed switch with a block consisting of switches and a socket, for example Viko (Viko), shown in the photo. There are from one key to four switches for a chandelier in a block. So there is an opportunity to choose the right one. The photo shows a two-key unit with LED backlighting and one socket.

You need to connect the switch block with a socket to the chandelier according to the diagram below. As you can see, the circuit is not much different from connecting a chandelier to an ordinary switch, with the exception of an additional wire running from the neutral wire to the left terminal of the socket.

In the diagram, the connection of wires is shown in accordance with the requirements of the PUE; in real wiring, zero and phase can be connected in reverse. If, for example, there was a two-key switch, but you need a single-key switch with a socket, then you can not lay an additional wire, but use a free one, switching it in the distribution box to zero or phase, depending on which wire goes to the switch.

ShVVP, PVS or VVG

The main topic of debate regarding the choice of cables and wires for spotlights is the choice of one of three brands of cable products:

Which of them can and which cannot be used? Let's look at it in order.

SHVVP - a cord with a vinyl sheath and core insulation and PVC. The cores are made of twisted copper wires, which ensures a high degree of flexibility. This fact makes installation easier.

It is designed for non-stationary connection of electrical appliances to the power supply network. According to the definition, it is no longer suitable for such a task as lighting installation. Its element is the power cords of hair dryers, televisions, fans, as well as various household appliances that are low-power or very mobile during operation. However, craftsmen often offer it for connecting spotlights as an inexpensive solution. In addition, the good flexibility of the cord significantly speeds up and simplifies the connection of the points themselves. Its insulation is not too thick, although it is within normal limits. This is also why it is not suitable for long-term work. According to GOST, its time between failures is about 5000 hours.

Apart from this definition, there are no other regulated reasons not to use it to connect “dots”, it is simply not designed for that.

PVS – vinyl connecting wire. This is the abbreviation for the marking of this cable product. The cross section of this wire is already round; accordingly, it has thicker and more durable insulation than that of the SHVVP. The cores are the same multi-wire flexible.

PVA is also designed for non-stationary connection of electrical equipment to the network. Therefore, the PVA wire is similarly not intended for lighting installation. But it is great for extension cords and for powering a variety of hand-held power tools and other appliances.

Nevertheless, a high-quality shell allows it to be used for wiring, and electricians often use it for electrical installations behind plasterboard ceilings and tensioned fabrics. A flexible wire is easier to install than a rigid wire with single-wire conductors (solid-core).

VVG is a wire with rigid monolithic conductors. Its insulation is also made of PVC, both the overall shell and the insulation of each core. Designed for permanent connection of electrical equipment and wiring.

This means that by definition it is suitable for installing wiring for spotlights. But electricians do not always like to install VVG cable to connect spotlights. VVG is rigid, which makes it difficult to connect the lamp in a limited window space to install a point. In addition, the lamps themselves usually have soft wires and connecting to hard wires can be difficult.

Nevertheless, a detailed study of GOST 7799-97 slightly corrects the above, as follows:

That is, according to this information, SHVVP is still allowed for connecting lamps, but for PVA this is not said. Apparently we are talking about table lamps, floor lamps and similar devices.

And this is an excerpt from GOST 31996-2012, which concerns the VVG cable:

Cable cross-section for electric stove

An electric stove or hob in an apartment is most often the most energy-intensive consumer; accordingly, the cross-section of the cable for connecting it differs from others and, most often, is:

For single-phase connection – 3 x 6 mm.sq.

For three-phase connection – 5 x 2.5 mm.sq.

If there is a three-phase input into the apartment, you should not connect the electric stove to only one phase with a three-core cable, even if you take the cross-section with a margin, because Perhaps there will be a “phase imbalance” - an unevenly distributed load on different phases. Be sure to read our article about choosing a cable cross-section for a hob or electric stove; it describes in sufficient detail the rules for choosing a cable, its cross-section and everything connected with it.

What is the conductor cross-section?

The wire cross-section is the cross-sectional area of the conductive copper core. If the conductor is stranded, then the total cut area of all its conductors is taken into account. This parameter is selected based on the estimated current strength and the length of the lighting line.

Low-voltage lighting systems at 12V and 24V differ from 220-volt ones by much higher operating currents. Let us recall that the current value is calculated by the formula:

I = P/U

where P is the load power (luminaires), U is the effective mains voltage.

The power consumed by lighting fixtures remains the same at any voltage. Therefore, it is obvious that as the input voltage decreases, the current in the circuit increases.

Safety precautions when routing wires for spotlights

When wiring lighting, regardless of the type and type of lighting devices, it is necessary to turn off the voltage supply to the main power cable. All tools used during work must have reliable insulation.

When choosing a wire and power cable, you need to pay special attention to the correspondence of its cross-section to the calculated load. In houses or residential premises in which a grounding scheme is provided, it is definitely worth choosing a three-wire wire

In this case, the likelihood of accidental electric shock when operating electrical appliances will be minimized. The sheath of cable products must have high fire resistance and attenuation ability.

It is prohibited to use homemade twists at the points of contact and connection of wires. It is necessary to use special terminals or crimp sleeves.

By following the above tips and requirements when creating wiring for spotlights, you can achieve maximum safety both during the work and during its operation.

Which spotlights to choose?

Rules for electrical installations

Before moving on to considering which cable to use for lighting in an apartment or private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the operating rules for electrical installations (PEU-7). Clause 7.1.34. The document recommends the use of wires and cables with copper conductors in residential buildings.

There is no clear ban on the use of aluminum products, but there are objective reasons why you should refuse to use this material:

Aluminum, compared to copper, has approximately 1.64 times lower electrical conductivity, which means that, other things being equal, it is necessary to lay a cable for lighting with a large cross-sectional diameter;
when interacting with oxygen, an oxide film is formed on the surface of a bare aluminum wire, which increases electrical resistance and leads to overheating at the connection points;
Cable products with aluminum conductors are very sensitive to kinks and mechanical stress due to the fragility of the material.

Deciding on the installation location

Absolutely any type of construction work must begin with careful planning on paper or in another accessible way. Many customers prefer to save on expense items, so after some of the work has been completed, defects and shortcomings are visible.

If we are talking about installing spotlights, then there is a list of common places where they are most often installed:

Above the berth;
Above the work area;
In the relaxation area and reading area;
In the kitchen or room above the tables.

Installing a chandelier is different from installing spotlights - they do completely different things that seem similar from the outside. For a spotlight, the wiring can be routed directly from the distribution panel in the house or apartment. You can also power this type of lighting from an outlet.

How to correctly position and connect lamps

After the ceiling is sheathed, the lamps can be distributed, since the location of the spot spots has already been taken into account when designing the frame.

It is necessary to take into account the passage of seams on a suspended ceiling, especially when choosing plastic or aluminum cladding for the ceiling frame. It is best not to install lamps at joints.

Main lighting

As the main lighting in living rooms, lamps are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Experts recommend longitudinal installation of spotlights in straight lines strictly perpendicular to the windows, the interval between lamps is from 80 to 100 cm, at a distance of 60 cm from the walls. In order to achieve the required lighting brightness, you can combine both spot installation schemes.

Backlight circuit

When choosing a layout of lamps to illuminate individual zones, it is necessary to install spots with a maximum distance of 80 cm between them, and 40 cm from the wall. Most often, lighting is performed zonally in places of relaxation, for reading books, periodicals, or for practicing hobbies: knitting, drawing, sewing, etc.

LED strip

The LED strip provides room illumination in selected areas, that is, it is installed in the room in rest areas, creating dim light. The light from LED strips is very useful and gentle on tired eyes if a person works a lot at the computer.

Choosing an installation location

When installing lighting, you can install it around the perimeter of the room. For a more convenient lighting arrangement, it is best to consult a specialist.

How to choose the right transformer power

Before connecting ceiling lamps, one point should be understood: for normal operation of all connected lighting fixtures, it is necessary to use a transformer whose power is 20% higher than the total power of the lamps in the electrical circuit. For example, a power reduction device is required for 8 40-watt light bulbs. First, the total power is determined: 8*40=320 Watts. Therefore, for this voltage you should purchase a driver with a power of about 400 Watts.

When calculating voltage, it is important to take into account that a large number of light bulbs requires a higher power converter. However, the cost and size of the step-down device increases with increasing power value

To solve the problem, spotlights are divided into several groups and a transformer is connected to each of them. But in this case, the converters must have less power.

Accepted markings of cores inside cables for lighting

Traditionally, cable insulation has different colors. This makes it easier to carry out electrical installation work on lighting houses and apartments. Thus, a red, brown or white sheath is present on live wires (denoted in the diagrams by the letter “L”). The blue wire means “zero” (letter “N” in the diagram), and green or yellow-green colors are used for the ground wire (letter “PE”).

For a two-core cable we have only phase and zero.

4Fri, 7 Mar 2008 01:25

sergey_sav wrote:

Then please explain to me why 0.75 is possible in a lamp - where is the logic? How many factory lamps have you seen, such as chandeliers, with 0.75 mm wires? At best, 0.5 mm, and very often 0.35 or even less. (It’s another matter that industrial lamps are really 0.75) In addition, the concept of “incomplete short circuit” does not exist among electricians. There is a concept of reduced or dampened insulation. Which either eliminates itself due to self-drying by flowing currents, or goes into a short circuit due to a breakdown. And KZ is KZ!!! There is an incomplete phase short circuit, but this is already higher matters.

electro wrote:

There is no cutoff in any of the examples given. I meant automatic rifles like AP-50 or automatic plugs, which are still being produced. That is, devices with a current trip coil. This coil instantly turns off the device when a certain value of the current flowing through it is reached. The thermal release, unlike the coil, has significant thermal inertia, and its shutdown time strongly depends on a number of initial factors: Current of the previous fault; Initial temperature of the thermal release. The material of the bimetallic plate and the heating element (sometimes these are different parts) And finally, on the ambient temperature. (i.e. depending on the degree of cooling)

In general, I wanted to know the link where you can find the Ampere-second characteristics of modern machines. To prove to the client that he is right by calculating the thermal resistance of the wires used. Taking them yourself is quite a chore, and the client may not believe in the reliability of the data; he is a mathematician who checks all the calculations for me. In reality, it is much easier to do this experimentally. As I will not tell you, “a bad example is contagious,” and repeating these experiments without sufficient knowledge is dangerous.

Thank you, of course, for the answers, but so far the arguments are not convincing.

How to wire for spotlights in different types of ceilings

There are two types of connecting electrical devices into a single circuit. These are serial and parallel connections. With the first option, connecting the wiring to the spotlights is not difficult. As is clear from the name of the connection type, lighting devices are connected one after another and at the same time have only one point of contact with the previous and next device. The advantage of a serial connection is that it saves on the amount of cable or wire, but the disadvantage is that if one lamp fails, the lighting system stops working completely.

Wiring lighting using a parallel connection is much more difficult. It involves greater wire consumption, as well as the presence of additional contact points at branching points. But this is the most common option to make wiring for spotlights reliable and efficient during operation.

Key Features

When connecting spotlights, we have the opportunity to lay wiring to each point without gating - behind the canvas of a suspended or stretch ceiling. The positive aspects are that it is convenient and relatively cheap and fast. The problem is caused by fire hazards.

The fact is that if an electrical cable catches fire when the installation is closed, there is a high probability that the flame will not spread, because almost no air flows to the fireplace and the materials from which the insulation is made do not ignite. In addition, hidden wiring in wooden structures is not allowed; therefore, since it is laid in concrete, the materials surrounding the wire will also not ignite.

At the same time, when laying openly on a sub-ceiling behind the “front” coating, there is a chance of ignition. Therefore, when choosing a cable or wire for connecting spotlights, first of all, rely on the fire safety position of this solution.

Appearance and lighting effects

Lighting is not only functional. Often this is also a decorative component. To make choosing spotlights based on this principle a little easier, let’s divide them into categories:

In some rooms - the bathroom, for example, special design refinements are not required. Here are the most popular models in which only the ring remains on the outside. The same models are installed if the interior is designed in a style that does not tolerate “embellishment” - minimalism, hi-tech, loft. The models chosen are the same, only the approach to choosing a color scheme may be different.
If you want to “revive” the interior, spotlights with decorative shades are suitable. They are very different - with balls, cylinders, carved shades. The styles are very different.
If you need “lighting effects” on the ceiling - a play of light and shadows, look towards models with crystal shades and/or pendants. They are, again, in different styles - geometric cut, in the form of flowers, etc.

In fact, choosing a design is almost the most difficult thing, because there are also rotating models, and two, three, or four light bulbs in one housing, and with various inserts of a different color, and with painting, embossing, etc. . and so on.

terms of Use

In an apartment and private house

On the street or in the garage

On the balcony or porch of the house

In the garden

If several groups of powerful lamps are intended to illuminate the entire area, then VVG 3x1.5 or flexible wire grades listed above will be suitable.
The cable must be protected with corrugation.

In the bathhouse or toilet

To connect the light in the bathroom, you can use both RKGM and the above brands of cable products, but it is recommended to use internal wiring or use cable channels for external wiring.

How to connect a chandelier with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

After reading the title of the article, someone will probably say, “why write about this, any apartment owner can handle this kind of work himself.” Yes, of course, installing and connecting a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in the apartment depends.

How to connect a chandelier with your own hands

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if installed incorrectly, become a source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting device is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems associated with how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the electrical network and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

Find out useful information on how to avoid paying too much for electricity from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting device, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, we must not forget about some other aspects of choice.

The total light output of the chandelier must correspond to the size and type of room for which it is intended. There are certain lighting standards, which can be briefly presented as follows:

— For rooms where soft diffused, dim light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), you should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W/m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bath, toilet) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (office or children's room), the norm will be from 15 to 20 W/m².

— For rooms with bright lighting (living room), this figure is taken equal to 20 W/m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting device with the required number of horns should be selected. An important nuance - in no case should you increase the overall illumination by using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of lampshades, sockets, and the cross-section of internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even a fire hazard.

The chandelier must be in harmony with the interior, both in size and decorative design.

The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, one that is too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

— The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L + S) × 10

D – diameter of the chandelier in centimeters

L and S are the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m, the best option would be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The pendant version will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
Chandeliers are most often sold disassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality products and outright counterfeits of well-known brands. Such products can be equipped with cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures. They will give out a counterfeit product due to poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisted wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently reconnect wires, unsolder them and insulate them according to all the rules. This is especially true for “sophisticated” chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra troubles, it is better to choose a product with really high-quality cable and electrical components, ask the store to assemble it and check the functionality of the product.

Video: some tips for choosing a chandelier

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lamps

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

Dealing with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

In this article we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions in the field of home electrical wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is provided by alternating current with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out through two wires - phase and neutral. If the house has a grounding loop (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often, in new buildings this issue is provided for in advance), then a third wire connected to the grounding bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking for wires in a single-phase electrical network:

Standard wire color coding

A characteristic nuance is that if the neutral wire is always blue or blue in color, and the grounding contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire can vary:

General table of color marking of power wires

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting devices, to switch different modes of their operation:

The cable may have several phase wires

Ideally, both the chandelier and house wiring should use the same color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

When working with electrical wiring, special attention should be paid to safety measures. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with unprotected hands unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work near the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable base - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the simplest option is a cable with two wires coming out of a hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, the neutral must go directly to the distribution box, and the phase must be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “don’t bother” with these issues.

Various types of indicators for checking phase

To check, you need to have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often it is designed in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent body, although modern models may have a different design, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment at the distribution panel. This is necessary in order to thoroughly strip the wires of insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are spread as far apart as possible to prevent short circuits. After this, turn on the machine on the dashboard.
Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked sequentially. Neither should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, it means the wiring in the house is done incorrectly - the “zero” on the switch, apparently, is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - you just need to keep this in mind, taking special care in further work.

Checking the phases on a cable coming out of the ceiling

The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored electrical tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then the corresponding number of phase wires should come out of the ceiling hole. The test is carried out in the same way as described above, with each phase marked separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - simply to eliminate mistakes by the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

Typical electrical diagram for connecting a chandelier with one group of lamps

The easiest way is when the chandelier has one or two or three arms, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - neutral and phase. If there is a ground wire, it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

Connection diagram with a two-pin switch and two groups of lamps

In the event that it is necessary to separate the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue “zero” wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often on chandeliers this can be seen quite clearly, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

The chandelier wiring is divided into groups and fixed in the terminal block

It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the design of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, you can figure it out here too by testing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the sockets (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and experimentally find out which horn is powered from which wire. After this, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

To “ring” hidden wires you will need a multitester.
There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all sockets, but in practice it is probably easier to simply ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and groups of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: diagram of connecting a five-arm chandelier to a two-key switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything has become clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of operation depends on the design of the chandelier and the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of installing chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-story buildings, hanging hooks were installed in ceiling openings during the construction stage. If it’s standing, then there’s less of a problem; however, it doesn’t hurt to still test it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load can be easily withstood, then there should be no special concerns.

What to do if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? It's okay, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw can be easily screwed into it.

Hook-screw works well for wooden ceilings

There can be various solutions with a concrete floor slab:

— You can hang the hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the slab. When doing this, be careful not to damage the wiring running there with the rod.

Hook suspended from a metal rod

— Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a butterfly lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with spring lock-butterfly

— If this option is not possible, for example, in the case where there is no “standard” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it would be useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If during drilling you encounter an internal cavity in the slab, use a special metal dowel for hollow-core structures - when it is screwed in, a “skirt” is formed that reliably holds the fastening element in the ceiling.

Metal dowel with hook for hollow structures

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. It is recommended to then insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter on it, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier using the standard mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply to the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected using terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks may occur on them and the insulation will melt. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram described above.

The chandelier is hung on a hook, the wires are connected at the terminals

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually covered with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch to immediately make sure there are no short circuits. It doesn’t hurt to check with an indicator that there is no phase on the metal body of the chandelier. If everything is normal, then with the switch keys turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed in or inserted into the socket and the practical functionality of all chandelier arms is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can begin the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those intended for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting strip fixed to the ceiling. This significantly improves the reliability of the overall installation, since the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

Scheme for hanging a chandelier on a mounting strip

The design of the mounting strip can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The strip may be straight or curved, with brackets to secure the light fixture housing, or with protruding studs or screws.

Cross mounting plate

The set with particularly heavy chandeliers may include cross-shaped strips or in the form of a reinforced I-beam profile.

The strip may have a hole with grommet-lined edges to accommodate wires coming out of the ceiling. You can also place the bar in close proximity to the cable exit point - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring connection.

The strip can be attached near the point where the wires exit

The mounting strip is attached to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, regular dowels with a “counter-sunk” pressure head are used.

Just as when using a hook, be sure to check the reliability of the fastening under load.

The fastening must be checked under load - to prevent situations like this

Quite often a situation occurs when placing the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure reliable installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct performer of the work.

Attaching the chandelier itself to the mounting plate may also have its own characteristics. In this case, you may need help - the lamp will have to be held suspended while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the chandelier body is secured to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was outlined above.

Features of attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

By and large, you should plan the placement of a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or several additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting strip, or a hook is installed, which can then be easily extended using a chain or rod. A hole is immediately marked in the plasterboard sheet and drilled in the right place for the wires and hook to exit.

But what to do if this issue of hanging a chandelier arose later?

In the case when the lighting device is of a pendant type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the gypsum plasterboard - its strength is unlikely to be sufficient for a point load. You can do this as follows:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, with a long drill installed in a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening.

Anchors with studs

An anchor with a long threaded pin is inserted and fixed as far as possible in the hole made, so that the pin extends out beyond the plane of the drywall.

A ring nut can be screwed onto the protruding threaded part of the stud

An eye-nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, from which the chandelier itself will later be suspended. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring “butterfly” with hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling, everything is the same as when working on a regular ceiling, only the fastening elements do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it goes out.

If the chandelier is of a console type, that is, installed on a mounting plate, then much depends on its weight.

— In the case when the total weight of the lamp does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, the bar can be attached directly to the gypsum fiber sheet. For this purpose, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Butterfly and snail dowels for attaching parts to drywall

The former are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the sheet of drywall when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second has a different principle of operation - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwed in. The “snail” is screwed in completely, flush with the surface of the gypsum plasterboard, in the right place, and in its center there remains a hole into which a regular self-tapping screw can easily fit.

— If the chandelier is heavier, then to attach the mounting strip you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become fasteners for a rack or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from installing a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: option for attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for various types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

No practical advice on how to independently install a chandelier on a suspended ceiling will be given - this should only be done by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling sheet.

Read detailed information about the location of lamps on a suspended ceiling, which is important to know, in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall at the planned height of the stretched fabric. Based on the location of this embedded platform, craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, strengthening their edges through which wires and fasteners will pass.

Approximate installation diagram of a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

Attempting to cut holes yourself in order to hang a chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using working techniques like a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. The deplorable, but logical result of such amateur activity will be the need to completely replace the canvas.

After the ceiling craftsmen have completed the work, leaving the necessary holes for the chandelier and fasteners, reinforced with special grommets, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care, in order to in no case allow the surface to rupture or puncture.

On a suspended ceiling, it is preferable to use a suspended version of the chandelier so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, halogen lamps or fluorescent lamps are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly ruin the decorative appearance of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.