Why does the refrigerator freeze and overfreeze food?

Published: 25 Jan 2022

Most often, users encounter this situation when they find frozen food in the refrigerator compartment and/or ice on the back wall. Models with a display can show negative temperatures in the refrigerator compartment.

The freezer compartment freezes less often. Users recognize this by the temperature on the refrigerator display being too low and/or ice in the freezer.

Sometimes both compartments of the refrigerator get very cold at the same time.

Let's summarize what you can notice when the refrigerator freezes food:

• the temperature in one or both chambers is below normal;
• Ice has formed in the refrigerator and/or freezer compartment;
• the compressor runs almost non-stop;
• Refrigerator models with No-Frost may make cracking noises and other noises.

If you notice one or more of the “symptoms” from the list, the technician clearly needs help.

The connection between refrigerator breakdowns and the principle of its operation

Refrigerator elements:

• compressor (motor). In the vast majority of cases - one, less often - two in advanced and expensive models;
• outlet circuits according to the number of chambers. Usually two, for the refrigerator and freezer compartments, which allows you to set the temperature there separately;
• defrost system: evaporator and heat exchanger (condenser). The NoFrost system is equipped with a small fan (impeller), heating element;
• air ducts, dampers. For drip (“crying”) defrosting, a flow-distributing solenoid valve;
• a system of tubes (capillary, etc.) for refrigerant circulation;
• power circuit, control and electrical parts, including microcircuits: temperature sensors, relays, thermostat;
• cabinet with doors on hinges, with a seal around the perimeter.

The equilibrium in the refrigerator system is dynamic: if there is excessive energy consumption in one of the compartments, then there may not be enough energy in the other. Most often, this is why the refrigerator does not freeze well. A violation can be caused by setting values ​​for two compartments with independent settings at the same time to the maximum. Even a reliable compressor may not meet the needs of such a regime. You have to choose one of two: super freezing or super cooling. Such incorrect operation is excluded for two-compressor units.

Defrosting

Although the breakdowns are essentially the same, there are slight differences in the elements, for example, the NoFrost fan and heating element may break, but the drip version does not have them (there is often a static defrosting circuit).

System options:

• drip (“crying” defrosting). When the compressor pauses, the coat of ice and frost melts on the walls and evaporator, and water flows down the grooves to the pan. Cold flows are distributed via a solenoid valve;
• NoFrost. There is a defrost system. The fan creates air circulation, preventing the formation of frost. If it appears, the impeller is turned off and the heating element (heater) is activated. Thawing occurs and water collects on the tray. This system also has motorized air dampers.

If there is no drip defrosting, but NoFrost, then the energy and air are directed to the negative compartment with an evaporator - a “defrost” with a heating element, which looks like a radiator or a coil with partitions. Separately, there is a similar element of this system, but with completely different functions (for heat exchange) - a condenser on the back wall of the cabinet. The secondary flow is forced by a fan into the positive chamber. If the control valves break down (sticking, jamming, incorrect operation), the freezer freezes, and an excessively high temperature occurs in the positive compartment.

For units with manual (drip) defrosting, the refrigerant circulates, being divided by a magnetic valve into two evaporators. If this element breaks down, incorrect cooling in the compartments may also occur.

Common breakdowns and variants of incorrect operation

The most common problems are:

• poor fit of the doors, resulting in a layer of snow appearing in the freezer;
• faulty monitoring and control system: sensors, thermostat, control unit;
• clogged capillary tubes, decreased compression (pressure), refrigerant leak when there is only enough to support the freezer - these are common situations if the unit does not freeze;
• breakdown (overheating) of the motor;
• malfunction of defrost, valves.

Each chamber, refrigeration and freezer, or two at the same time, may experience different levels and modifications of temperature violations, especially if it is not a new refrigerator.

To summarize, problems can be grouped into two types: freezing is observed in one compartment and the other is working weaker, or both compartments are cooling poorly. Options:

• the minus compartment functions well or freezes, but the refrigerator does not;
• there is a certain level of cooling, but not according to the set parameters, or insufficient;
• the positive compartment is working, but not in the right direction - it freezes.

The refrigerator compartment works poorly, the freezer works well

A sign of incorrect operation: in the positive compartment the temperature is excessively high, but in the freezer it corresponds to the norm.

If the freezer has the NoFrost function, the first reason why the refrigerator in the minus compartment gets very cold is a malfunction of the defrost (evaporator), namely the heating element, it does not heat up for defrosting. The system becomes icy. The circulation of air flows that are extremely important for the refrigerator is disrupted.

If the impeller begins to touch the ice on the radiator, moves with difficulty and jams, then the air duct freezes. That is, if the refrigerator is very cold (refrigerator compartment, freezer is freezing), the reason is defrosting. Further, after leaving the plus segment, the cold will begin to disappear from the freezer. A characteristic sign of a breakdown is a noisy fan, squeaks, then silence.

Definition of failure

The option for what to do if the refrigerator gets very cold is the following for the case described. You can try doing a complete manual defrost (it will take about a day). The obstacle to the blades will disappear, but if even after this the impeller does not spin, the services of a specialist will be required. If the system becomes operational, and then the problem occurs again, this means that the defrost malfunction is confirmed - the heating element or evaporator temperature sensor must be changed.

In a drip system, the cause may be due to incorrect operation of the defrost activation timer. For two-compressor models, diagnostics can be carried out in the described way, without turning off all cameras.

Other failure factors:

• The thermostat, controls and adjustments have failed;
• freon leak;
• compressor is broken.

It is also important to check whether the light in the chambers goes out when closing the cabinet: the button may be broken, there is no fit, there is no contact. We need to see if there are any distortions. The situations listed above, as well as refrigerant leaks and compressor breakdowns, are most typical for older refrigerators.

The freezer freezes poorly, the refrigerator compartment freezes

Sometimes a breakdown, when the temperature in the chambers is high and does not display the specified levels, is called the general term “poor freezing.” A type of malfunction is an increase in the values ​​in the minus compartment to the defrosting level, and in the refrigeration part there is overfreezing and ice freezes. The refrigerator does not cool, the minus compartment is very cold.

The reasons if the refrigerator began to freeze heavily in the positive compartment are standard, but with a different mechanism for the malfunction of the elements:

• cyclic on/off The compressor depends on the thermostat. When the latter fails, the motor runs without interruption, and excess cold is pumped in. At the same time, defrosting is not activated in NoFrost, the evaporator freezes over and becomes covered with ice. There is no cold flow into the upper freezer compartment; accordingly, it is increasingly directed to the refrigeration section. If the compressor does not turn on for a long time, then the effect is at first similar - then all chambers begin to cool slightly;
• It is not possible to rule out a breakdown, but rather an incorrect setting of the operating mode by the user.

All cameras are slightly cold

Reasons if the refrigerator does not freeze and the temperature is high in all chambers:

• The main reason for the violation of the temperature regime in all compartments is a gas leak (freon), the pressure drops, the circulation of the refrigerant weakens, and heat removal is difficult. The temperature rises first in the plus segment, then in the freezer;
• similar consequences if the capillary tube becomes clogged;
• incorrect operation of the control unit. Often, it is impossible to set the desired mode or turn it off.

Poor freezing, no cycling, compressor running constantly

The refrigerator, or rather its compressor, must operate with pauses necessary for the set mode. Continuous operation - a sign of malfunction - is determined by the indication or by the constant hum of the motor, vibration of the cabinet.

One of the reasons why the upper chamber of the refrigerator does not freeze is that the volume of refrigerant has become insufficient due to a leak. Mechanism: there is not enough freon to maintain a low temperature, which is detected by the automation and, trying to reach a given level, forces the process by operating the compressor without pauses.

This can also be observed when the refrigerator is in working order, for example, during the period when normal operation is established after defrosting. But if there is a malfunction in the compartments, the temperature does not reach the set values, remains high constantly and the refrigerator begins to freeze poorly in all compartments.

You can verify the nature of the breakdown yourself by inspecting the cooling circuit: defrost it, after cleaning the freezer will stop working altogether.

There is a danger of another breakdown: the compressor is overloaded, so after prolonged operation it also breaks down.

The refrigerator started to get very cold - the food is freezing

It will be a real disaster for users if the refrigerator gets very cold. What to do if the cavity inside is frozen with a fur coat, food touches the ice, loses its taste, and freezes. First of all, you need to find the cause of the disaster.

• check the settings of the refrigerator parameters and modes;
• make sure the door closes tightly;
• clean the drain hole if it is clogged with ice;
• make sure that the thermostat is working properly and responds to commands.

Only a master can check how the electronic control works, reconfigure and debug the mode. In the meantime, you need to move the food away from the walls, move it to the warmest part, closer to the door.

Summary and diagnostic guide

Let's summarize all the cases why the cooling system does not work and their description. The table can be used as a kind of guide, which is enough for preliminary diagnosis of breakdowns.

Typical breakdowns of models with NoFrost

Full NouFrost is popular among users, in which the refrigerator does not need to be defrosted (this needs to be done very rarely for preventive purposes - once a year). With NoFrost, the refrigerator compartment is cooled by a cold flow forced by a fan, and the heating element periodically heats the evaporator in the freezer so that it thaws.

Features of two-compressor refrigerators

The compressor is the main functional element, a motor with a container of refrigerant. Two-compressor refrigerators are more reliable, since the load on each motor and vessel with freon is significantly reduced. Still, breakdowns, although much less common, are observed. The problems are similar to those described, but it must be taken into account that each chamber has its own refrigeration circuit with the indicated elements. A malfunction in one compartment does not in any way affect the operation of the second.

What you can do yourself

Trivial problems cannot be ruled out. Options that you can fix yourself:

• check the settings for erroneous high/low temperatures. Often the upper chamber in the refrigerator does not freeze precisely because of incorrect settings, especially if the product is new and just connected;
• two-compressor models have the option of separately turning off the chambers - perhaps one of them is accidentally deactivated;
• a one-time failure is possible - you need to defrost and start the unit again;
• skewed doors, incorrect position of hinges: from wear, when overhanging. It is necessary to check and bring these elements into the correct position (tighten bolts, fastenings, etc.);
• distortion and breakage may occur due to incorrect adjustment of the legs - despite its apparent insignificance, this factor is extremely important, as it affects the entire system. It causes not only a loose fit and leakage of cold, but also incorrect movement of flows, refrigerant, and rattling;
• In most cases, you can replace the seal yourself by purchasing it at a specialty store.

The main signs that the refrigerator is generating excess cold

In order to understand why the refrigerator freezes too much, pay attention to the presence (absence) of the following signs:

1. The appliance is equipped with a NO FROST system, but water accumulates in the freezer compartment, which forms ice on its walls.
2. Ice has formed in the compartment for storing vegetables and fruits, and water has formed directly under the container itself.
3. The appliance gets very cold, even when the freezer is turned off.

In general, the main indicator of an excessively low temperature in the refrigerator is the presence of ice in it.

What to do when repairing a refrigerator

Refrigerators are difficult to repair on your own: without experience, special tools, and knowledge of the specifics of the parts, the unit is unlikely to be repaired. In most cases of breakdowns, there is only one way out - calling a specialist.

What does a repairman do when repairing refrigerators?

• replacement of the compressor, temperature sensor, thermostat, solenoid valve, filter drier;
• dismantling the old and installing a new evaporator;
• identifying and sealing the leak location (in this case, the heating circuit can be cut to connect the tubes directly);
• updating, repairing defrost elements, fans, heating elements;
• installation of a new motor;
• pushing through the blockage in the capillary tube with a special jack or replacing it completely;
• installation of new seals and hinges on doors;
• replacement of capacitors and other elements on the boards and in the control unit. Burnt out, corroded tracks and contacts are soldered. If the breakdown is significant or the processor has failed, a new control unit is installed.

During the repair process, the cold circuit is pressurized, the system is evacuated, and it is charged with freon. This involves soldering, so you will need skills in soldering copper and other refractory metals.

How to independently identify the cause of the malfunction

To determine the cause of the failure, perform the following steps:

• Check the settings - if the previously set parameters were reset, you should restore their correct values. If everything is in order with the settings, you need to continue diagnostics.
• Inspection of the seal - it is important that it ensures a tight fit of the door to the unit itself. If the seal is worn out, you should purchase a new rubber band and replace it.

If both the settings and the seal are normal, then the cause of the malfunction lies in something else. Since it is quite difficult to repair a refrigerator on your own if there is a freon leak, a clogged drain or a broken valve, it is recommended to contact a specialist to resolve these problems.

Household appliances Refrigerator