It's hot summer now. According to forecasts, the air temperature in the Rostov region is the highest in the country, up to +35ºС. But in reality, I suspect – even more.
But the article will not be about how good it is to drink cool live beer in the evening.
The fact is that in the summer, especially often, I receive requests to replace the circuit breaker in the electrical panel .
People also have another name, which comes from the times when wiring in apartments was only external, laid with twisted wire on insulators - plugs . They also say “packets”, or simply “Automatic machines”. It is correct to say “ Automatic circuit breakers ”.
Replacing the electric meter: who should change it and at whose expense it is done
The procedure for replacing metering devices is subject to rules that should be strictly followed. Let's list the regulatory documents and clarify who should and at whose expense the replacement is made.
Expert opinion
Viktor Pavlovich Strebizh, lighting and electrical expert
Any questions ask me, I will help!
The exception is municipal housing buildings, where control over the meters is established by the energy supply or management organization and payment for replacement is made at their expense. If there is something you don’t understand, write to me!
Who should change the electric meter - let's look at the reasons
So, please note that the first three reasons for replacing the meter listed above occur due to the negligence of residents. Accordingly, in these cases, replacement is carried out at the expense of the consumer. Government agencies have nothing to do with this. The fourth and fifth reasons are the concern of the energy sales company, that is, the owner of the meter. In these cases, no one has the right to require you to invest your personal finances in changing the device.
Who should change the electricity meter in a private home?
Replacing an electric meter in a private house follows the rules stated above, that is, to the question “who should change the device” the answer is clear - depending on the reasons for the replacement. However, everything is not so simple, clear and unambiguous when we are talking not about a private house, where only one family or citizen is a consumer of electricity, but about a staircase, when several families are consumers at once.
Who should change the electricity meters in the stairwell?
When there is a need to replace an appliance in an apartment building, the question arises of who should change the electric meter on the landing - the energy sales company or the residents. In fact, the management company is obliged to change meters, but if the apartments are privatized, then all activities are paid for by the consumer.
Read the contract carefully
As a rule, management companies pass all costs of replacing meters onto consumers.
Before installing equipment, residents always sign an agreement with the management company. The standard agreement always contains information that the meter is replaced at the company’s expense, but it often happens that such a clause is simply missing from the contract. Users sign an agreement without going into details, and then they are responsible for replacing meters at their own expense. Sometimes such a clause is even present in the contract, but the company, taking advantage of the consumer’s ignorance of the legal sphere, still imposes payment obligations on him. Helpful advice! Please read the contract carefully before signing. This will help ensure that it contains a clause stating that the costs of replacing the meter are borne by the management organization. In the future, if the device requires replacement through no fault of yours, the company is obliged to replace it at its own expense, and there will be no claims against you.
Recommendations for the apartment panel
Now on a specific question asked by Anton. That is, we will select machines for the given panel diagram.
All cables are selected correctly, with a good margin. And everything will work fine until an overload or short circuit occurs in the event of a breakdown in the load or power cables. We select machines based on the most reliable, safe and long-lasting operation of electrical wiring and loads.
Once again I am publishing the table sent, but I will add the last column with recommended machines.
Recommendations for choosing circuit breakers for apartment electrical panels. The machines recommended for replacement are highlighted in red.
Expanded comments. I also give an Option in which the denominations are brought to the same row with a slight decrease in reliability and a possible increase in the load on the group.
Gr.1. Everything is fine here, nothing needs to be changed. I hope the connection through the terminals is made securely?
Gr.2. The cable current is 4.0 mm², taking into account the 70% margin, we take 38x0.7 = 26A. It will be perfectly protected by a machine with a rated current of 20A. Since there is no increase in current during startup, it is better to take a machine with characteristic B. Connection is also necessary through the terminals. Option – C25.
Gr.3. The most problematic group. Why did electricians choose such a cable under significant load? Because it is problematic to connect residential 4.0 mm² sockets. To protect the cable, you need a C20 circuit breaker, but this will not allow you to connect the entire planned load. In any case, 42A cannot be passed through a 2.5 mm² cable. Now you need to either distribute the load over time, or pull another line to an additional block of sockets, or use the line to the hob (Gr. 2), or the oven line (Gr. 4). The option is C25, but the cable may be overloaded.
Gr.4. The power is small for such a cable, so the C16 rating is sufficient. Option – C25, especially if part of the current will be used for the needs of kitchen outlets.
Gr.5. B16. Option – C16
Gr.6. B16. Option – C16
Gr.7. Warm floor. B16 or even B10. Option – C16
Gr.8. Washing machine. C16. There are no options.
Gr.9. Bedroom. B16. Option – C16
Gr.10. Cabinet. B16. Option – C16
Gr.11. Air conditioner. C16. There are no options.
Gr.12. Fridge. C10. There are no options.
Gr.13. Corner. AT 10 O'CLOCK. Option – C10.
Gr.14. Equipment. AT 10 O'CLOCK. Option - C10, or C16, if it is possible to increase the load, for example, turning on a vacuum cleaner.
Gr.16. Projector. AT 10 O'CLOCK. Option – C10 or C16.
It remains unclear how the lighting is connected (via Gr.12?). It is better to connect it via B10. Option – C10.
Consequences of replacing the machine in the dashboard with a more powerful one
Let's say you have a circuit breaker rated at 16 amps. It protects electrical wiring with a cross section of 2.5 mm. If, when all devices are simultaneously connected, it knocks out, then at that moment a current of more than 16 amperes is flowing through this machine. If instead of this machine you install a 25 amp machine, then the new machine will not knock out.
But your wiring will most likely not withstand it: it will start to heat up, and then a short circuit or fire may occur. Is it possible to increase the nominal value of the machine in this case? I don't think so.
| DO NOT increase the rating of the machine; if it is knocked out, the electrical wiring will burn out! |
Of course, you can replace all the electrical wiring and then install a machine with a higher rating . Electrical wiring must be replaced if it has been in use since the times of the Soviet Union; in particular, it is worth replacing the aluminum cable with copper.
How to calculate the power of an introductory machine?
To select an input circuit breaker, we calculate the load current:
- Un-mains voltage;
- Pp-Design power;
- Cosф-(Cosine phi) Power factor;
- To protect against false triggering, select the rated current of the thermal release of the input circuit breaker to be 10% higher:
- It.r.=Iр×1.1.
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Installation of a new switch
To install a purchased device, the sequence of work is reversed. First, the upper part of the device is placed on the DIN rail. Use a screwdriver again: pulling out the eyelet, press the bottom one into place until it clicks. There are no problems with connecting contacts when stranded conductors crimped with lugs are used. In this case, they are inserted back into the clamps - upper and lower, and the screws are tightened.
If the core does not have a tip, then there is a risk of its deformation, so the old tip is bitten off when there is a sufficient supply of wire. When it is missing, it is better not to reuse it, since the necessary reliability of the electrical contact is not guaranteed. In case of any reasonable suspicion of defects (melting of electrical tape, traces of burning), these areas are also removed. The wire is stripped and clamped with a screwdriver.
After completing the connection, voltage is applied to the machine by returning the input switch to the operating position. The last step is to check the operation of the device under load. At home, they plug power plugs into sockets, turn on electrical appliances, and then make sure that there are no cracking, sparking, or signs of heating on any contact of the machine. Electricians test the last symptom with a pyrometer, which allows them to determine the correct operation of the device - compliance with the response characteristics of the releases.
Shield audit
When replacing machines in a panel, it is worth starting first of all with its visual audit. First, without touching anything with your hands, you need to look through all the installed machines and connections to them. In most cases, this is enough to identify a fault in the electrical panel. Also, a visual inspection will help indicate errors made when installing the shield.
The machine's rating is checked connected to it. All burns or melting of wires and clamps are determined. The reliability of all connections is checked manually (all terminals of automatic machines and zero busbars are tightened).
Shield assembled by a professional
And a hack
If the machine breaks down
Before starting work, the electricity is turned off. This is mandatory if replacing the machine in the panel is done by yourself. On the distribution board, as a rule, there is a general switch, with the help of which it is possible to stop the supply of electricity to the entire house or apartment.
More global work requires coordination with the electrical company, and all subsequent electrical work is carried out by a specialist authorized for this work.
Old type machines
It may happen that someone's old type machine needs to be replaced.
There may be difficulties with dismantling work. The screws get stuck over time or even become rusty and brittle. You can try moistening the old fasteners with WD-40. But if in this case the mounting screws do not give in, you will have to cut the wires using side cutters.
If it is necessary to replace the machine in the panel of the old design with new ones, they are dismantled. Now it becomes possible to place them on a DIN rail. All you need to do is measure the free space and insert a strip of the required length. And its placement in a free space in the panel is supposed to be on the middle axis of old switches.
To work, you will need a screwdriver to make holes with a diameter of 1–2 mm for metal screws. But there is a small problem. The old fuses have been removed, which means the apartment is de-energized. Alternatively, you can extend the carrier from your neighbors. But it's easier to use a cordless screwdriver.
All that remains is to install new switches:
- We install fuses on the rail.
- We press them from below.
- Let's snap it into place.
- We install the wires.
- We turn on the general switch.
- Let's check.
New type fuses
In modern panels, all machines are installed on a DIN rail. The process of dismantling and replacing a faulty machine in this case is greatly simplified.
Decision No. M-2113/2013 2-2024/2013 2-2024/2013~M-2113/2013 dated June 28, 2013
A circuit breaker has tripped in your apartment panel. As a result, some part of the apartment lost power. Almost everyone has found themselves in this situation. What are your next steps?...
Most of the machines in the panel are distribution or linear - they power some part of the household network or a separate electrical receiver. To de-energize such a device, it is enough to turn off the introductory (most powerful) machine or packager.
If the device malfunctions, the owners may have questions: who should change the machines in the panel, whether the replacement is paid or free of charge. So, if we are talking about the input device, which is located in front of the meter, then it is a common property of the house, therefore the company must purchase and replace it for the money that the owners pay every month.
It is more difficult when the introductory machine itself needs to be replaced, or when there is neither an introductory machine nor a packetizer. In such cases, it may be impossible to do without the assistance of electricians from the operating organization, since the voltage can only be removed in an ASU or other switchgear located outside the apartment and locked with a separate lock.
Then, without removing the tool, a slight upward movement is made with it, it releases the lower part of the device from the rail. The housing is then lifted up, removing the entire switch from the rail.
In accordance with clause 7 of the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of August 13, 2006 N 491, the intra-house power supply system from the external border to individual electrical energy meters is included in the common property.
Safety precautions when replacing traffic jams with an automatic one
This material is intended for people who do not have much experience in electrical installations. Therefore, it would be useful to recall the basic safety rules. There are only four of them. Before you begin dismantling the old shield, you must:
- Remove voltage from the section of the electrical network where electrical installation work will be carried out.
- Check that there is no voltage.
- Before checking the absence of voltage, make sure that the device that will be used for testing is in working order.
- During installation, insulate the phase wire going to the meter.
To remove the voltage from the electrical wiring, you need to turn off the package switch or circuit breaker that powers your apartment in the floor distribution panel.
Checking for lack of voltage can be done with a two-pole voltage indicator, a multimeter or voltmeter, or a phase wire indicator (contact or non-contact). The most accessible are simple contact indicators made in the form of a screwdriver with a neon light bulb or LED. One of the variants of such a screwdriver indicator is shown in the figure.
To check the absence of voltage, remove the plugs or plug-type automatic switches from the plug holders. Make sure that there is no tension on the center and threaded contacts of both holders. If you use an indicator screwdriver, then during the test you need to touch the electrical contact at its end with your finger.
Attention! Never neglect to check that the appliance is working properly before checking that there is no voltage. In order to make sure that the device is working properly, you can use a socket that is known to be energized.
If there is no way to relieve tension
In a private home, it is often impossible to turn off the electricity completely. The electricity meter always remains energized. For safe work, it is necessary to disconnect the phase wire from the first live terminal of the electric meter and carefully insulate it. This must be done very carefully. All operations must be performed with dielectric gloves and use tools with insulated handles. Protect your eyes with glasses or a clear face shield! For greater safety, place a rubber mat, such as a car mat, under your feet.
You can insulate a live wire using an insulating tube (cambric) of a suitable size. To prevent the tube from accidentally falling off, it can be secured with one or two turns of insulating tape.
Attention! Everything stated above is not a guide to action. All operations performed under voltage are performed at your own peril and risk!
Basic installation mistakes
The most common mistakes made by inexperienced electricians:
Basic mistakes in installing machines
It is important to remember that all work involving the replacement of automatic machines must be carried out with the mains voltage turned off! Or by a specially trained person with permission to work under voltage.
Connecting lines to machines
Let's assume that you have correctly distributed the load among the machines and distributed the wires accordingly. Now you need to understand that all single-pole circuit breakers only break the incoming phase. Phase and zero are broken only by two-pole circuit breakers or RCDs.
All neutral wires must be attached to the neutral bus or cross module; in extreme cases, if there are only two lines (two neutral wires) and they are of the same cross-section, then they can be inserted into one socket of the machine, without using the neutral bus.
