10 mistakes when connecting a kitchen hood to electricity and ventilation.

As you know, kitchen hoods come in classic and recirculating types.
The first discharges air into the ventilation shaft or directly to the street. The recirculation system simply pushes it through itself, trapping fat. It is designed with filters to remove odors from the air.

The main questions and problems arise when installing and connecting the classic version. We will consider it in as much detail as possible.

To begin with, we will briefly list the main mistakes that await you along this path. Below we present ways to solve them and the most popular installation methods.

Mistakes when installing a kitchen hood

1 Blind connection of the air duct to natural ventilation is the most common mistake.

Some people, of course, leave a grille for natural air movement, but still manage to block it with the air duct itself.

2 Connecting an air duct of too small a diameter through an adapter to a powerful hood with a large outlet flange.

Recommended dimensions for round air ducts are d=125mm. For rectangular ones - 204*60mm.

3 Exit the air duct to the street through a homemade hole in the wall.

In most cases, this is prohibited by the rules. Specific points will be given below in the text.

You can, of course, lay a separate box along the facade straight to the roof. But is it worth it? Although in restaurants and cafes located on the ground floors of high-rise buildings, this solution is widely used.

By the way, the ban on venting air to the street through a wall does not apply to private houses, but only to high-rise buildings.

4 Complex route geometry with a large number of transitions and curvatures.

First of all, this will affect the noise. Although, of course, the turns themselves are not the greatest evil. And sometimes you can’t do without them.

It is the turns that follow one after another, without acceleration sections, that are dangerous.

5 Connecting an overly powerful hood (for example, 1000 m3/h) to a standard ventilation duct, which is capable of passing about 300 m3/h.

Remember that a productivity of 200-300 m3/h is quite enough to effectively remove all odors, with minimal load on the ventilation of the house.

6 Installing the hood at the wrong height.

The installation height directly depends on what kind of stove you have - gas or induction hob.

7 Assembling a plastic ventilation duct without a good seal, or joining parts with superglue.

Believe me, sometimes this structure has to be disassembled.

8 Upper, rather than lower, location of the slots in the decorative grille in the same frame as the air duct.

Why this is a mistake, and when it is still possible to do this, is discussed below.

9 Lack of a separate outlet in the upper part of the wall for the hood.

As a result, connecting it haphazardly, through carriers and extension cords. Do not forget that in the end this is not a portable device, such as a fan, heater or mobile air conditioner.

This means that the wiring for it needs to be done stationary and wisely.

10 Incorrect installation of check valve.

It must be embedded and installed in compliance with the appropriate angles and inclinations. Otherwise it will work every other time.

In general, installation of a hood can be divided into two main stages. The first is its connection to electricity. The second is the air duct structure and everything connected with it.

Let's look at each of them separately.

Step-by-step installation of a hood over a gas stove

Experts advise how to effectively and correctly install a hood over a gas stove. There are several issues they pay attention to:

• Taking measurements - starting from the bottom edge of the hob and ending with the position of the burners;

  
  Hood installation starts with measuring

• Make sure that the fasteners are level - a deviation of a few millimeters can reduce the performance of the hood by 20%;
• Select an installation location taking into account access to ventilation ducts and power supply;
• Draw the hood on the kitchen plan in case of a complete renovation.

Important: The hood noise is 36 dB, which does not cause discomfort to users.

To install the hood you will need:

• connectors, dowels, hooks, screws are included in the kit, therefore in the package;
• pipe for connection to the ventilation system, size 13x13 cm;
• punch;
• spirit level
• roulette;
• pencil;
• saw;
• adhesive tape or tape;
• silicone sealant.

Important: It is best to use a plastic pipe with a smooth inner surface and a check valve.

Before installing the exhaust system, it is necessary to prepare a place for its attachment. The procedure is carried out in several stages:

1. Calculate the power. The exhaust air must be replaced at least 10 times every 24 hours. This value can be calculated based on the area (S) and height (H) of the room, the minimum air exchange rate (10) and the correction factor (1.3). Use the formula V= SxHx10×1.3;
2. Perform grounding operation. The device is connected to phase, ground and neutral conductors. The ground connection is made in the form of a wire attached to a metal part, and is indicated in yellow with a green stripe;
3. Location of the anti-return mechanism. The folding box must be made of metal. To save time, you can purchase a butterfly check valve;
4. Marking the position of the hood and air ducts. For built-in models, you must remove the bottom shelf in the cabinet;
5. Making an outlet with a grille and a canopy if the air duct runs behind the wall;
6. Placement of power supplies. The electrical outlet should be located away from the hob to avoid contact with grease and water vapor;
7. Installation of a corrugated hose with a minimum number of kinks.

The outlet must be grounded.
Important: The hood must not be connected to a power outlet using adapters or extension cords.

The procedure for installing a prefabricated hood over a gas stove depends on the type of appliance.

How to install and connect a powerful hood for ventilation above a gas stove? Two types of pipes are used:

• Lightweight plastic pipes characterized by excellent sound insulation. Pipes have a rectangular or round cross-section. Ventilation ducts are mounted on top of the wall blocks and connected to the L-shaped adapters using sealant;

Corrugated products made of thin aluminum. They are stretched to the desired size and connected using clamps.

At the last stage, the exhaust device is connected to the power source in accordance with a clearly defined operating algorithm:

1. The location of the electrical outlet is 60 cm from the hob;
2. Performing 15A grounding – the wire is connected to the metal body of the hood;
3. In the case of a grounding wire and a Euro socket, the wire is connected to the contact;
4. The contacts are wrapped with insulating tape;
5. The presence of voltage on the hood body is checked using an inverter screwdriver. Connection diagram for the hood to the electrical network

Note! When making connections, wear rubber gloves and isolate the power source throughout the apartment.

Connecting the hood to electricity

This stage is the simplest. It’s very good when initially planning your kitchen, you carefully planned the location of all sockets and electrical points.

You can find out how to avoid making a bunch of basic mistakes and maintain all distances in a separate article.

If you do not have a free socket for the hood, you will have to install it. To do this you will need the following materials:

• three-core cable VVGngLs 3*2.5mm2

For home wiring, use a cable of this particular brand (with the index Ls).

• regular 16A socket with grounding contacts

The hood itself, unlike other kitchen appliances, is a low-power device. Accordingly, it is not at all necessary to pull separate wiring under it directly from the switchboard.

The same cannot be said about the hob or dishwasher.

It turns out that this unit can be connected from a common socket group from the nearest distribution box.

Pull a groove or cable channel from the distribution box to the location of the future outlet and mount the socket box.

This outlet is located on top, almost under the ceiling, slightly above or to the side of the hood itself. The choice of a specific location will depend on the length of the cord and the requirement for the minimum installation height of the exhaust unit above the stove.

Often you have to cut a hole in the nearest kitchen cabinet for this purpose.

Next, remove the insulation from the cable, mark the cores and connect them together in the junction box.

All that remains is to connect the outlet correctly.

The wiring for the kitchen unit is ready. Let's move on to the air duct.

How to properly install a built-in hood in the kitchen

Unlike wall-hung analogues, a built-in hood is designed for installation in a cabinet. This way, only the control panel remains visible. The cabinet is usually chosen to accommodate the hood. Its dimensions must exactly match the dimensions of the device. To achieve the best effect, it is better to make it to order. You can also install furniture that is already in use, but this will be a little more difficult.

How to properly install a hood in an already installed cabinet

1. Remove the base and shelves. Install additional fasteners to increase structural strength.
2. Mark the contours of future hood holes on the removed parts. If the dimensions match the dimensions of the furniture base, only the holes for the chimney are required.
3. Carefully cut out the holes according to the outline. Finish the edges.
4. Insert the structure into the cabinet. Align the bottom edge with the bottom of the furniture and secure the cabinet.
5. Place the shelf in place.
6. Install the duct by inserting it through the prepared hole in the shelf. If the duct is located in the wall behind furniture, remove the back wall. Then there is no need to make a hole in the shelf.
7. Connect the device and make sure it works.

We figured out how to install a hood in the kitchen with our own hands. It is simple and quite accessible even for a master without much experience. Some difficulties may arise when laying cables, especially if it is a rigid structure with adapters. For a novice repairman, it is best to choose a corrugated air duct, which is as easy as possible to install. Finally, here is a video on how to install a duct system yourself.

Incorrect connection of the exhaust duct to the ventilation

The main problem during installation is to correctly connect the air duct without disturbing the natural ventilation in the apartment.

Some of the craftsmen generally advise taking the whole thing out into the street, through the nearest wall. However, according to SNiP it is prohibited to do this.

It clearly states that such a hole cannot be placed closer than 8m from the adjacent window. Since this window is considered a device for supplying outside air.

Here, read the paragraphs of the set of rules SP54 and SP60.

That is, drill a healthy hole in the wall, spend a lot of nerves and money, and the neighbor will complain about you, and you will be obligated to repair it all.

How do most consumers connect? An ordinary corrugation is taken, placed on the outlet, stretched and attached to a flange, which is screwed to the ventilation hole.

That's all. Simple, cheap and wrong. What are the disadvantages of this method? First of all, the noise.

When air passes through such a ribbed corrugation, it makes extremely unpleasant sounds.

But most importantly, when your device is turned off and not working, natural ventilation is forced to draw air from the apartment through the hood. Not only can your box be clogged, but in the summer there is sometimes no traction at all (due to the same temperature at home and outside).

Moreover, you are actually putting an oily mesh, motor, turbine, etc. in the path of the air. Also, air suction will not occur at the ceiling level, but at the level of the middle of the kitchen.

Although the collection of all odors of waste products should be carried out from the maximum height.

It is quite clear that in this case there will be no traction. That is, with your own hands you are depriving yourself of natural ventilation.

This threatens the occurrence of fungus and increased humidity. In the off-season, your doors will simply begin to swell and close poorly.

There will also be a lack of oxygen and constant poor health. At the same time, someone falls into mysticism and begins to think that they have been damaged or the apartment has bad energy, but in fact, there it is - improper ventilation!

Initially, in Soviet times, when designing our multi-story buildings, engineers expected that air would flow into the apartment due to leaks in wooden windows.

However, with the installation of plastic windows and sealed doors, we thereby blocked this channel of fresh air in the house. You will also close the ventilation and you will live like in a submarine.

To correct the situation in such cases, it is recommended to install a supply valve on a plastic window.

Instead of clogging, you can do everything more intelligently. What alternative options are used for this?

The principle of operation of exhaust devices and types of hoods

The purpose of exhaust devices is to remove contaminated air from the kitchen space or clean it to an acceptable level. Thus, the kitchen hood is part of a forced exhaust ventilation system.

There are two ways to clean the air in the kitchen: remove air masses through a vertical exhaust shaft into the atmosphere or pass contaminated air through a filter system.

These are the two basic principles of operation of exhaust devices that are currently produced by industry. There is a third type that combines both methods in its work.

There are three main types of kitchen hoods: classic, or dome, built-in and suspended.

A classic hood is located directly above the stove and traps dirt with a voluminous metal dome in the form of an inverted funnel. Next, the air is discharged outside into the atmosphere through the exhaust channel.

The suspended hood is also attached to the wall above the stove. Most often, its design involves a combined cleaning method: both filters are used and contaminated air is discharged into a vertical exhaust shaft.

A built-in hood is usually installed in elements of kitchen furniture so as not to spoil the design of the room. Very often it does not need to be connected to the exhaust duct, because the device works on the principle of recirculation, that is, contaminated air passes through the filter system and returns to the kitchen space.

Some types of hoods

Many types of exhaust structures have been developed that can be installed in kitchen areas of various sizes and layouts. You can always choose the appropriate option. Based on the method of fastening and location, they are also distinguished:

• island hoods. They are located above the cooking surfaces, which are placed at some distance from the walls and represent a kind of island;
• corner hoods. These appliances are made so that they can be installed in the corner of the kitchen without any problems.

It should be added that the varieties described above most often combine the classical and recirculation schemes.

It is very important to choose the right power hood to ensure high-quality air purification. According to existing standards, complete renewal of air in the kitchen should be carried out 12 times within an hour.

To fulfill this requirement, it is enough to calculate the volume of air masses that need to be updated per hour. To do this, you need to know the parameters of the room.

So, the required volume looks like the product of the kitchen area and the ceiling height, multiplied by 12. If bends are designed when installing the ventilation duct, then the resulting figure should be increased by 30%. This should be approximately the power of the exhaust fan.

Hood duct and grille with non-return valve

The first is that instead of corrugation, a plastic pipe is taken (for example, d-125mm), and through one or several bends it is led into the hole in the ventilation duct. In this case, a certain division is made in the hole itself under the ceiling.

An entrance to the pipe is mounted on top, and a small rectangle is left below through a grate with a valve for natural inflow.

Moreover, the grille should be at the bottom, and not at the top. Otherwise, the air flow from the hood will blow upward and lift the so-called non-return valve.

Although, of course, if you have a more advanced valve design - a circle or rectangle with an offset axis, and not simple strips of polyethylene, or there is a solid partition, then you can safely install it as you want - on top, side, bottom.

However, in fact, this whole structure often does not work as intended. When you turn on the exhaust unit and create pressure, a small part of the dust still seeps through the cracks and micro-holes, after which it safely ends up in your kitchen on the dining table.

No check valves are 100% effective. The bulk of the air, of course, goes outside, but the gradual formation of dust inside the apartment is a fact.

And even when the hood is turned off due to the reduction in the diameter of the original hole, natural ventilation through narrow grilles will be much worse.

Everything can be done much better.

Types of suspension systems

Hanging systems are classified according to their location in the kitchen. This will determine how and where they will be attached. Among the suspended ventilation systems, the following varieties can be distinguished:

• wall;
• corner;
• island.

The first ones are the most common. They are made in a wide variety of design options, so it is easy to choose a product that matches the appearance of previously purchased furniture.

Island products can be placed anywhere in the room, as they are mounted to the ceiling. Such designs are often used in designer kitchen furniture.

Correct connection of the air duct to the ventilation system

For this you will need:

• plastic air duct

• offset check valve

• tee splitter

In the end, you should end up with something like this.

How does it all work? When the hood is turned off, the valve will be open and warm air from the kitchen will quietly flow by gravity into the ventilation duct. As soon as you turn on the exhaust hood, the valve immediately closes automatically, blocking the air flow into the room.

In this case, all odors from the stove will easily go outside. When switched off, the pressure in the box drops and the valve automatically opens, connecting the ventilation shaft to the apartment.

Requirements for installation of household devices

A few words about the requirements for installing equipment in rooms with gas stoves. According to the law, a gas stove can be installed in rooms with a height of at least 2.2 meters. This is worth knowing for those who are going to build large-volume suspended structures to hide ventilation ducts or pipes.

When installing a hood over a gas stove, rules apply. According to the rules, the minimum distance between the kitchen work surface and the appliance panel is 75 cm. This is 10 cm more than the standard for electric stoves

Installation or selection documentation can be found in the public domain. General documents on the importance of forced ventilation can be found in SNiP 2.04.05-91, details on the volume of exhaust air in SNiP 2.08.01-89, and on efficiency and other technical details in GOST 26813-99.

There are no strict rules for installing ventilation ducts, so they can be placed outside or inside kitchen cabinets, behind partitions and above hanging structures.

You can find out where to install the hood and what conditions are necessary for its installation in our recommended article.

Assembly instructions - all numbers and performance

How does this all come together in practice? For capacities up to 300 m3/h (low speeds of most hoods), a d-125mm pipe is sufficient. On the device itself, the outlet hole may be larger.

For example, for 650 m3/h you will need a d-150mm pipe. However, you are unlikely to find such plastic pipes, and if you use the next standard size d-160mm, it will turn out to be a huge and awkward structure that spoils the entire interior and design of the kitchen.

Moreover, you will have to drill a factory hole for the ventilation duct in the wall, expanding it.

Therefore, in most cases, the optimal diameter of 125 mm is chosen. And you don’t need more.

The forced throughput capacity of standard channels and shafts with dimensions of 100*150mm is 400 m3/h.

An air flow of more than 450 m3/h simply will not fit there (it was tested in practice), even if it says 1200 m3/h on your hood!

Remember also that you cannot underestimate the diameter of the air duct too much compared to the outlet pipe on the hood. Otherwise, the vibration and noise will be so strong that the structure will have to be re-glued every month.

The connection of different diameters is made using special adapters.

Let's start assembling. First, install the adapter on the hood and connect the vertical section to it.

To improve its sound insulation, it makes sense to go crazy and stick a 5mm thick heat-sound-insulating material on top.

It wouldn’t hurt for them to cover the inside of the decorative casing and the noisiest part - the adapter. This is where the greatest turbulence occurs.

Next, add 90-degree elbows and other straight sections of duct as necessary to ultimately exit toward the hole in the wall.

All this is glued together with silicone, no superglues. There should be no gaps anywhere.

We reach the tee. A valve is installed in it from the side of the room.

Keep in mind that this is a gravity valve! It opens not due to air flow, but due to its weight.

One half of it is heavier than the other and at the same time it is installed at a slight angle of 2 degrees.

Which is the best hood to choose?

When you have decided on the location of the hood, pay attention to the power of the device. The quality of ventilation and air purification depends on this parameter.

Interesting: in the Russian Federation there is a standard for air exchange in the kitchen. According to it, the air must be renewed every 12 hours.

To calculate the power of the hood for your kitchen, you need to multiply its area with the height of the ceiling, and then multiply the resulting number again by 12. To the final result you should add 30% (losses during the passage of the length of the ventilation duct and bends of the air duct). The final figure is the required power for your kitchen.

Required: when purchasing, pay attention to the noise level from the device (indicated on the packaging). If it reaches over 50 dB, do not purchase it to avoid suffering from loud noise.

Preparing the ventilation shaft hole

Before all installation work, it is advisable to plaster the entry into the ventilation shaft itself and remove all sharp corners. This will give the entrance maximum aerodynamic qualities.

You should end up with approximately the same surface as a standard 90 degree round elbow.

It is recommended to add ceresit liquid (ceresit CT99) to the plaster solution.

This hole will be exposed to fat and moisture. And ceresite contains components that prevent the formation of mold.

However, do not use gypsum plaster under any circumstances. Its use in ventilation shafts is a direct path to the appearance of mold and fungi.

Attach sections of a standard air duct to the tee on both sides. From the side of the wall, 5-7 cm, wall it up in the ventilation duct. The exit itself is decorated with a square frame.

Socket installation

Before connecting the hood to the ventilation, you must ensure that there is an outlet. Ideally, electrical installation work should be carried out by a certified professional. However, in practice, as you know, you often have to do this yourself. In addition to personal safety rules, it is mandatory to comply with the following standards:

• The socket is mounted in a place above the wall cabinets of the kitchen unit - at a distance of 5 cm or near the ventilation shaft - at a distance of 20 cm.
• It is impossible to install the socket at a distance less than 2 m from the floor covering.
• A grounding device with a current of at least 15 A is required.
• The electrical outlet intended for the hood must be 15-amp or larger.
• When connecting an additional socket to the line, the total power of all connected devices is calculated (no more than 4 kW). If the indicators are higher, then it is better to place the hood on a separate line.

Why does the check valve sometimes not work and close?

On the kitchen side, a check valve is mounted on the tee. In the factory version it will be quite long. In this case, it is better to shorten it so that this “gun” does not stick out too much.

The valve is inserted inside a section of a standard air duct d-125mm, and this air duct is put on and siliconized onto the tee.

If this whole structure seems too cumbersome to you, and the protruding pipe with the valve is not very aesthetically pleasing, you can do it a little differently. You make the air duct not with a round pipe, but with rectangular channels.

In this case, you install the above check valve on a straight section, as close as possible to the turn.

You can't achieve a factory connection here, so you'll have to farm collectively. Buy a rectangular tee with a round outlet on one side. Next, this round timber is cut off and a check valve is glued in its place.

The valve is placed strictly at an angle (2 degrees). Otherwise, it will open every once in a while or not open at all.

Many people have encountered this problem and easily solved it this way.

The damper itself is also mounted with a vertical deviation. The upper turning point, based on the hour dial, is at 13.00 (1 o'clock), and the lower one is at 17.00 (5 o'clock). This is if your flow direction is from right to left.

Otherwise, the circle is placed at the 11 o'clock - 7 o'clock position.

For more reliable operation and stable opening of the damper, you can stick some kind of weighting material (no more than 2 grams) on one side. Glue it close to the edge.

By the way, do not throw away the previously cut round pipe. It is tightly inserted onto the valve from above, after which a decorative grille diffuser is mounted on it.

What nuances might there be with this method? If your hood stands exactly above the entrance to the ventilation shaft, and the duct pipe goes straight, without any turns in the horizontal plane, then the valve installed on such a straight section does not work normally, at least at 1st speed.

You will simply have nowhere to get the increased pressure to close it. The air will fly through this “turn” in a straight line. You definitely need an angle.

The valve cover and its rotating mechanisms are easy to clean and do not be afraid of them becoming overgrown with grease. For this to happen, you will have to fry huge wild boars on the stove and stew them in your oven for several hours a day, no less.

If you don’t want to see a protruding “hollow” under the ceiling at all, then, as an option, you can install a tee so that the middle elbow rests against the wall, otherwise, where the valve is located, it would look to the side. In this case, also close the hole with a decorative cover.

Everything will look much nicer. However, due to the additional rotation, the performance of natural ventilation will deteriorate slightly. And the grill will reduce it by another twenty percent.

In addition, it will no longer be possible to clean the channel by hand or with a vacuum cleaner. But many do this deliberately and even hide the entire structure in a wooden or plastic box.

As they say, beauty requires sacrifice.

At what height from the stove should the hood be installed?

The height of the hood above the electric stove is no less than 70 cm. The device can be installed above the gas hob at a distance of no less than 80 cm.

Before installing the exhaust system, I had to ask the experts for their opinion on this matter. Some said that the distance between the gas stove and the hood could be 70 cm. Allegedly, this is enough for all the fumes to escape.

However, remember that hotter air comes from a gas stove than from an electric stove, so the power of the device may not be enough to draw in combustion products. In addition, filters and other parts of the exhaust system can deteriorate from such a temperature, and this affects the performance of the device. Is it worth the risk, trying to maintain the minimum possible distance? It’s up to you to decide?!

The distance between the hood and the stove also depends on the height of the person who will stand at the hob. The system must be fixed at such a height that a person does not hit his head on the body of the device.

Why does the air from the kitchen get to the neighbors - is the hood to blame?

Despite all the advantages, such a hood connection system has many critics. They believe that in this way you are rudely interfering with the overall ventilation system of the entire house.

For example, everything will be fine with you, but have you thought about your neighbors? Allegedly, due to this connection of the hood to the ventilation, all odors from your kitchen will automatically penetrate into the apartments through the riser above.

They started frying pies, and all the neighbors already knew about it. However, all critics are mistaken based on misconceptions about the ventilation system in apartment buildings.

They think that from bottom to top there is one common channel 110*150mm with “holes” for each apartment.

In fact, in 5 floors, all the channels are individual and you are unlikely to be able to blow out extraneous odors from your neighbors. In houses of 6 floors and above, there is already a ventilation system with air removal through satellite channels, connecting to a common collection channel through one floor.

This common channel has a cross-sectional area 6-8 times larger than individual shafts in apartments with dimensions of 110 * 150 mm.

Schematically, such a ventilation system for a multi-story building can be represented like this.

Yes, in such buildings, if several hoods are turned on at the same time to the maximum, reverse draft may occur. But this is an extremely rare case.

Look - the natural draft from apartments, at best, ranges from 100 to 150 m3/h. You have a nine-story house. The first seven floors are embedded in a common channel measuring 510*270mm, or even more. The total natural flow in it is about 1000 m3/h.

And then, instead of the usual draft of 150, you turn on your hood at 300 m3/h. Do you think it is capable of creating reverse draft in this case and starting to expel air to the neighbors?

To do this, it is necessary that all 6 floors do the same thing, and at maximum speed.

Then one apartment will be unlucky and its inhabitants will have to smell all the aromas of their neighbors’ cooking. But this option is unlikely.

Despite all this, sometimes the air from your kitchen actually gets into other apartments in the house. Or, on the contrary, you have a great feeling that your neighbors are grilling you for lunch today. Why does this happen and where to look for the reason?

This happens for several reasons. For which ones, read in more detail under the spoiler.

Why does the smell from your apartment penetrate to your neighbors?

Connection requirements

First of all, check if there is grounding in the apartment. If you live in a house with built-in electric stoves, then this issue disappears - grounding was carried out during construction. If you don’t have one, don’t be upset, there are many options for how to properly ground a modern city apartment, and what conditions are required for this. It will be easier for those who have their own home. Read more about these methods in the article on grounding.

We must not forget about a separate socket for the hood, which is installed at the level of the system hood or slightly higher: in this way it is connected to the electrical network of an apartment or private house.

You will have enough general knowledge of the operating principles of similar systems to adequately cope with the installation. You can find detailed videos on the Internet that will help you understand the nuances of this process.

Special recommendations for corrugation installation

• If the ventilation hole is located above the stove, then an adapter will be needed to connect the hood and the ventilation system.
• If the distance is large, an air duct in the form of a plastic pipe is needed, preferably with a round cross-section. Corrugated ones are often used. You may need elbows and an adapter to connect.
• When installing, the corrugation must be stretched so that there are no unnecessary folds. They increase noise when the air purifier operates.
• The corrugation is fixed on the pipe using clamps.
• The air can be exhausted optionally into the ventilation shaft. Often homeowners make a hole in the wall using a hammer drill and lead the pipe outside.

In order to make the correct size hole in the wall, you need to measure the diameter of the vent at the back of the hood. Using a saw, the hole is evenly rounded. The internal insulation is removed and the duct plug is attached.

Basically, that’s all the advice on how to install a built-in hood. Naturally, it is convenient to carry out installation simultaneously with the installation of a new kitchen unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFsiROAuGDg