Socket for kitchen hood: selection and installation location

The variety of different types of kitchen hoods and methods for installing them makes it difficult to choose a location for an outlet, especially if you have not yet selected the exact configuration of the kitchen unit and the hood itself.

This information will be of interest primarily to those who, at the electrical installation stage, do not yet know what kind of kitchen they will have and want a universal socket for the hood to fit almost any air purifier. For most sockets in an apartment, it is easy to choose the installation height of the sockets; it is enough to use simple rules; in the case of kitchen appliances this does not work.

Installation height of inclined hood above the stove

Recently, inclined hoods have become widespread. They are the most aesthetically pleasing and fit better into modern interior styles. For them, the installation height is slightly less:

for gas stoves - 55-65 cm,
for electric and induction cookers - 35-45 cm.

Why is it important to adhere to installation heights?

It is extremely important to install the hood at the height recommended by the manufacturer - only in this case will it work for a long time and perfectly clean the air from smoke and drops of fat formed during cooking.

Installation at the lowest height can lead to a fire, interfere with cooking and is not aesthetically pleasing.

A very large height will not allow you to capture all the contaminants entering the air, and the efficiency of the hood will decrease.

Installing a socket for a hood

The placement of the socket where it will be connected depends on the installation height of the hood above the stove. Traditionally, the socket is mounted directly above the hood. A good option is to fix the rosette approximately 10-30 cm above the strip of hanging slate. At the same time, do not forget to move the hole for the rosette 20 cm away from the axis of symmetry of the hood, since the exhaust duct runs through the center.

Summarize

Any kitchen space, if, of course, it is used for its intended purpose, needs the installation of a hood. This is the only way to ensure constant and timely air purification and thereby protect kitchen surfaces from grease and soot.

But, like other electrical appliances, the hood needs power, and the easiest way would be to install a separate point for this purpose. To avoid problems during installation, you need to determine in advance the location of the socket for the hood in the kitchen.

And to do this, you will have to take into account many factors, ranging from the type of hood being installed to ease of use and compliance with the interior. Also, do not forget about safety rules.

Only after careful planning of the work and installation of furniture can you begin to install the outlet itself.

Connecting an electrical outlet

The socket is connected after all preliminary work has been completed:

cable installed;
the location where to install has been determined;
installation of sub-socket boxes (mounting installation boxes);
devices with the required level of IP protection were purchased.

Once all these steps have been completed, you can proceed with the actual installation.

The connection looks like this step by step.

Turn off the circuit breaker (circuit breaker) in the panel. Despite the fact that this work is not difficult, one should not ignore such an aspect as safety.
Check that there is no voltage. Before removing the front panel and touching the stripped wires and contacts with your hands, you must make sure that there is no voltage. This can be done with a simple electrical voltage indicator, multimeter or tester.
Strip the wire. Before connecting, you need to prepare the wire peeking out of the glass. If the installed electrical cable or wire has double insulation, then 15-20 centimeters of outer insulation are removed from it. After which it will become more pliable for connection. If paired wiring with single insulation is carried out, then it is necessary to separate the cores by 5-10 centimeters.

Connect a new outlet. First you need to connect the lead wire to the contacts. To do this, approximately 5-10 millimeters of insulation is removed from the current-carrying cable cores. The exposed part of the cable is inserted into the terminal and firmly fixed with a screw. When tightening the screw, do not use incredible force, otherwise the cable may be pinched. If grounded outlets are connected, the grounding conductor is connected to the proper terminal (grounding terminal). This contact is connected to the grounding “whiskers”. Before connecting the grounding conductor of the cable, you must make sure that this conductor is the “ground”.
Place the socket in the installation box. After connecting all the supply wires, you should place the working part (conductive elements) of the socket in the installation box. It must be mounted evenly, without distortion, flush with the wall. The supply wires are carefully hidden in the installation box. After placing the socket in the required position, it must be securely fixed. For this purpose, it is equipped with specialized clamping “feet” (or fastening antennae) with screws. When screwing in the screws, the fastening antennae diverge, thereby securing the socket. New generation electrical sockets do not have fastening lugs. They are secured with screws located in the installation box.
Screw on the front panel. After installing the conductive elements, you can screw on the front panel.

To learn how to properly connect a hood in the kitchen, watch the following video.

Hood grounding

In order for the kitchen hood to operate safely, the appliance must be grounded. This is a mandatory requirement. If a multi-storey building, small house or cottage has a protective ground loop, then the problem does not exist.

Electrical wiring in such houses is mounted from a three-core wire, where the yellow-green wire is the “ground”.

There is a special bus in the distribution panel that allows you to add new grounding contacts when laying dedicated lines.

If there is no ground loop, you can try to ground the outlet yourself. To do this, simply connect the appropriate cable core, for example, to a heating pipe.

As a rule, this is enough. The main thing is that the contact is reliable.

If the device will still be operated without grounding, you need to be prepared for the fact that in the event of a breakdown, it will not be subject to warranty repair.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross-section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph.
Here, follow the rules: for device loads up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5 mm2

for device loads up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*4mm2

with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2

with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why there should be a brand VVGnG-Ls is discussed in detail in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-core cable. This will save you in the future from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires.

As a last resort, the third wire will be a backup for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Socket block in the bathroom

Old regulations in force during the existence of the USSR did not allow the installation of sockets in the bathrooms of multi-story buildings. Due to the emergence of new electrical products that are reliably protected from water and steam, this ban has been lifted.

It is allowed to place a power socket with a voltage of 220 volts in the bathroom provided that the following rules are observed:

The power cable leading to the power supply point must be laid in a protective corrugated sleeve, and the joints must be insulated with sealed heat-shrinkable tubing.

Installation methods

Socket for pendant hood

There are several options for installing an outlet under a kitchen hood. They are distinguished according to the following criteria:

for built-in modifications of exhaust devices;
for samples of suspended hoods;
if possible, install the socket in a protective casing.

In the first case, the socket for the built-in hood is most conveniently located inside the wall cabinet itself. For hanging models, the area above the top panel, located near the air duct, is optimal. In this case, the power cord is securely hidden behind the structure and does not spoil the overall appearance of the kitchen. The last of the proposed options is good in itself, since the outlet is securely hidden, its location does not violate any of the requirements of current standards.

Location options in living rooms

If electrical points can be placed arbitrarily in the hallway, living room and bedroom, then in the kitchen and bathroom it is necessary to take into account safety requirements. Therefore, we will analyze the utility rooms of a private house or apartment separately.

There are no uniform standards that clearly regulate the installation of sockets and switches in living rooms. This gives rise to 3 options for their placement, practiced by craftsmen when installing electrical wiring:

The so-called Soviet method, used in apartment buildings of the USSR era. Switches are placed approximately at arm's length - 160-170 cm from the floor, and sockets - at a height of 1 m.
According to European standards. Sockets rise 300 mm above the floors, switches - 900 mm, as shown in the photo.
Arbitrarily, guided by considerations of ease of use and individual requirements for room design.

Reference. How to correctly install connection points in accordance with the regulatory document - PUE? For residential premises, there are restrictions on the maximum height of sockets (no more than 1 m above the floor) and the minimum distances from window openings of 10 cm, from the ceiling - 150 mm. Please note that the requirements are simple and are advisory in nature.

The Soviet installation option is considered inconvenient and outdated. The switches are too high for children to reach and turn on the lights. The location of the sockets is unaesthetic and impractical - too high for portable household appliances, and too low for a hanging TV.

To get to the Soviet switch, the child needs to climb on a stool

As a rule, when renovating an apartment or building a private cottage, the owners adopt European standards or develop an individual project for the placement of controls. Regarding the arrangement, we will give the following recommendations:

Make a plan for each room, where you will place stationary furniture and home appliances.
In the hallway and living room, provide several connection points for household appliances in the right places. The installation height above the floors is no more than 30 cm. It is better to use ready-made blocks of 2-4 nests, so that if necessary you do not have to use tees.
In the bedroom, place sockets on the wall at the head of the bed at a height of 40-70 cm, depending on the size of the bedside table. If necessary, interlock them with the light switch.
For stationary floor-standing equipment (for example, a stereo system), install connection points directly on the baseboard. The plug and wire will be hidden behind the body of the device.
For a wall-mounted TV, place the connector block at a height of 130-150 cm so that it is behind the top of the device, as shown in the photo.

When small children live in the apartment, sockets installed in plain view must be made safe. Buy special products whose openings automatically close when the plug is unplugged.

Note. According to current regulations, in children's institutions and schools, all electrical fittings are built into the wall at a height of 180 cm.

Selecting an electrical outlet and cable

It is worth paying close attention to the outlet itself:

The manufacturing material must be resistant to high temperatures. The best solution would be to take an expensive device made of heat-resistant plastic that can withstand accidental heating. Cheap ones will quickly turn yellow and darken;
there should be no play in all connections;
the holes for the plug must be protected by sliding curtains;
The last thing you should think about is how the outlet will fit into the design. But you shouldn’t forget about it!

The cable also needs to be chosen carefully. You need to find out what the power of the kitchen hood is, and then select the appropriate cable for it.

It is quite possible that in the future not only the hood will be connected to this point, so it is important to take this into account. Modern devices have a power from 100 to 400 watts, and the current does not exceed 2 amperes

If you take a cable with a cross-section of one and a half squares, then it will be enough not only for the hood, but also for another electrical appliance, but not very powerful

Modern devices have a power from 100 to 400 watts, and the current does not exceed 2 amperes. If you take a cable with a cross-section of one and a half squares, then it will be enough not only for the hood, but also for another electrical appliance, but not very powerful.

Installation of electrical outlets in accordance with the PUE

When working with electricity, safety must come first. Therefore, you need to install the socket in accordance with the rules for electrical installations. Some of these rules apply directly to hoods:

The electrical outlet for the air purifier is allowed to be installed near the ventilation shaft or wall cabinets. In this case, the distance to ventilation should be at least 20 cm, and to the cabinets - at least 5 cm.
The height of the electric point from the floor should be at least 200 cm.
The capacity of the electrical outlet is 15A or more.
All sockets installed in the kitchen must have a degree of protection of IP 62 or more. This marking means that the electrical outlet has the highest degree of protection against dust penetration, and also has protection against water drops falling at an angle of 15 degrees.
Grounding contacts with a current strength of at least 15A must be present.
The total power of all devices connected to the line should not exceed 4 kW. If it is higher than this figure, then the wiring may be overloaded when the equipment is simultaneously connected to the network. If the total power of the devices is more than 4 kW, then a separate line is required to connect the hood. However, in old houses it is problematic to draw such a line, since the wiring is hidden inside the walls. In this case, you can lay additional wiring along the surface of the wall, connecting it to the main wiring using a loop method. To prevent this wiring from spoiling the appearance of the room, it can be covered with decorative boxes or cable channels.

When installing a hood, some craftsmen offer the option of connecting the structure directly to the line, without using an outlet. In this case, the wires are connected using terminal blocks. With this type of connection, there is no possibility of turning the device on and off independently, since a plug is not used. This connection method is considered unsafe, especially in the kitchen, so it is better to avoid it.

How to install (fix) a flat kitchen hood?

A flat, or as it is also called, a suspended hood usually does not have an air duct, but is equipped with a filter for air purification.

By the way, any model of hood can be started in recirculation mode (air purification with a built-in filter) or in air exhaust mode, depending on your desire and capabilities.

It should be remembered that filters need to be changed at least twice a year.

The installation of the hanging hood itself is very simple. The exhaust device has a special mount; you just need to transfer marks to the wall, the distances between which will correspond to the holes on the mount.

All that remains is to drill the wall, hammer in the dowels and attach the awnings with a screwdriver or screwdriver. We attach the exhaust device to them and connect it to the network.

General requirements

A kitchen hood is a low-power appliance (up to 500 W), so there are no special requirements for its connection.
Most models plug into a regular grounded electrical outlet. If a dedicated connection point is not provided, then connect to the nearest available one. It is somewhat more difficult to connect a hood for which the manufacturer has not provided an electrical cord. In this case, you will have to connect to the network directly with an electrical wire.

Choose the installation height and location based on your convenience.

Mount the connection point in an inconspicuous place, but so that it has good access.

Choosing a place for an outlet for a hood: rules and standards

When the outlet has already been selected and purchased, you need to choose where to place it.

The main rules for choosing a place for sockets for the hood:

You need to decide exactly where and at what height the hood will hang (probably the most important rule). This is necessary so that when choosing a place for an outlet, you can comply with other rules and restrictions (distances to pieces of furniture).
The minimum distance from the power supply point to the kitchen furniture (countertops, cabinets, shelves) is 5 cm.
The minimum distance from the power supply point to the ventilation shaft opening is 20 cm.
It is recommended to make the socket not close to the hood body, but to move away from it about 30 cm to the side. In this case, the heat will not reach the power point, and possible drops of water and fat from the stove will not reach.
There must be grounding, current strength - from 15A.
The total power of kitchen appliances should not exceed 4 kW. If the sum of the power of the kitchen equipment is already or exceeds 4 kW, a separate line must be installed for the hood to avoid overloading the electrical network when all devices are operating simultaneously.
Access to the outlet should not be blocked by furniture or appliances, at least massive and heavy ones (placement inside a closet is allowed). Firstly, you need to see what condition the power point is in. Secondly, in case of problems with it or with the wiring, you will have to move furniture and appliances (and in the kitchen it is often impossible to move a separate piece of furniture).

It is also recommended to find out exactly what the cord length is for the selected model (if you have already chosen it). Usually it is about 80 cm (not a generally accepted option, but the most common).

The height of the outlet for the hood: which one should I use?

The recommended installation height is 180-200 centimeters from the floor, or 100-110 centimeters above the table (slab).

The optimal height from the stove (countertop) can be calculated using the following formula:

H ch + H b + 5

, Where:

HVP: height from the hood to the stove;
Hv: the height of the hood itself (body);
5 - half the height of the socket.

Where to make a socket for a “regular” hood (not built-in)?

Another important point: it is initially recommended to decide on the model (or at least the type of hood), and only then select where it will be connected to electricity.

The reason is that different types of devices have their own connection characteristics:

Built-in (built-in). It is installed in a cabinet, and the socket is usually located there.
Hanging (installation is carried out under the kitchen cabinet, or without it). If you install a hanging hood under a cabinet, then the power supply point can be made inside it.
Island (ceiling). The most difficult option in terms of installation: attached to the ceiling, away from the wall. Electrical power in this case can be provided by direct connection to the wiring (more on this below). Or, as an option, the power supply point is placed under the ceiling.
Corner, inclined, fireplace, T-shaped. Such devices are connected in the same way, into an outlet near the installation site.

Where and how to make a socket for a built-in hood?

It was already mentioned above that for a hood built into a cabinet, you need to install the socket there (in the cabinet). Therefore, initially you need to have at least a design for future furniture, and only then choose a place for an outlet.

You need to start working after the furniture has been installed. In this case, there are a couple of important rules of the PUE that must be followed:

The socket must be installed on a fireproof base.
“Hidden” wiring that will run inside the kitchen furniture must be laid in a corrugated steel casing for protection.

Do all hoods have a plug?

Most models are sold with a plug. However, some devices are sold without it - just a cord with wires at the ends. They are rarely on sale, but they are still found, so just in case, when purchasing, it is worth checking whether the model has a fork.

How to connect it in this case? The options are:

Attach the plug to the wires and connect to the outlet in the usual way.
Connect via Wago terminal blocks.
Connect via terminal block.

Connecting a hood without an outlet to electricity (directly): is it worth doing this?

Do I need an outlet to connect the hood? Necessary, but not mandatory: if necessary, the device can be connected directly to the wiring, without a plug and socket - using terminal blocks.

This scheme is considered unsafe and is not recommended. In addition, this is also inconvenient: if you need to remove the hood, then disconnecting such a connection will be more difficult and longer.

Installation stages

Installation of exhaust devices is carried out according to the following algorithm:

selection of installation location and marking;
fixing the device (to the wall or in the closet);
pipe connection from the ventilation shaft;
connection to a power source.

Each stage of work must be coordinated with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Hood installation

The hood can be installed in two ways: mounted on the wall or built into a cabinet. Depending on the chosen option, the order of work changes.

To Wall

To hang the hood on the wall, you will need to perform the following steps in the order given:

Measure the distance from the hob to the hood and put the corresponding marks on the wall.
Draw a horizontal line along the marks, keeping the level. The lower part of the hood should border on this strip.
Measure the center of the drawn line and draw a vertical strip along the new mark, also maintaining a level.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the case to the device mounts and mark the corresponding marks on the wall.
Drill holes on the wall according to the marks and insert dowels.
Install the device starting from the top. Then level the device horizontally and secure it.
Place a plastic duct from the hood to the ventilation shaft.

Into the cupboard

Installation of an exhaust device in a kitchen cabinet is carried out according to the previously described scenario. But in this case it is necessary to follow a number of rules. The bottom of the cabinet should be located strictly along the horizontal strip marking the distance from the hood to the hob. To install built-in appliances, it is recommended to order furniture according to an individual sketch.

In the upper part of the cabinet you need to cut a hole for the corrugation or ventilation duct. Then the hood is placed inside the box and fixed to the walls. Next, the corrugation is brought to the corresponding hole and secured. Upon completion of the work, the cabinet is attached to the wall. The joints of the corrugations must be coated with sealant.

Electrical connection

The exhaust device is connected to the power source using three wires. Before starting work, the device must be grounded. There is no need for the last procedure if the apartment has European sockets. If such a device is not available, you need to attach a wire that will act as a grounding conductor to the metal part of the hood.

An important point is that such work can be performed if you have the appropriate qualifications. The “zero” cable must be connected to the dead neutral in the electrical panel (pipe or plate on the wall).

How to equip an air duct correctly?

The installation procedure does not depend on the type of duct selected. First you need to purchase or manufacture an anti-return mechanism. If the second option is chosen, then you will need to create a box with a cross-section corresponding to the diameter of the air duct. Then in this housing it is necessary to place an anti-return valve, which consists of two sheets of metal connected to each other, which open like the wings of a butterfly. This mechanism is mounted in front of the ventilation shaft exit.

After this, the air duct is fixed. The latter is laid with a minimum number of bends. This approach allows you to reduce the level of load experienced by the fan in the hood. At the end, the duct is attached to the wall. All joints must be additionally treated with sealant or polyurethane foam.

Aluminum

Aluminum pipes are convenient because they bend well, thereby simplifying the installation of the air duct. This option is preferable for those who have not previously installed a hood. Aluminum pipes are capable of stretching, thereby eliminating errors when calculating the length of the air duct. Also, the corrugations do not create noise or vibration when the hood is operating.

The main disadvantage of this option is that aluminum pipes have an unattractive appearance. Therefore, corrugations are usually hidden in a suspended ceiling or a special box.

Plastic

Plastic air ducts are the best choice for apartments and houses. Pipes made of polyvinyl chloride have a neutral white color and do not emit extraneous noise during operation of the exhaust device. The main disadvantage of plastic air ducts is their more complex installation compared to corrugated ones. In particular, during installation it is necessary to strictly maintain a 90-degree angle when changing direction.

Plastic square

This version of the air duct is no different from the previous one. The only difference is that square PVC pipes are easier to install. This is explained by the fact that, thanks to this shape, the individual elements of the air duct fit into each other more accurately and more rigidly, thereby reducing the consumption of sealant.

Optimal place

As mentioned above, there are several options for installing an outlet for a kitchen hood:

for built-in modifications, the ideal location would be the inner box of the wall cabinet, into which the hood is built;
for hanging-type models - above the top panel, near the air duct, then the power cord will be located out of sight;
in the air duct casing.

An extremely important characteristic is the installation height of the socket under the hood. Professionals advise installation at a distance of 190 centimeters from the floor or 110 centimeters from the countertop. Such a decision is completely understandable. The ideal installation height for the hood is 65 centimeters above electric stoves or hobs and 75 centimeters above gas stoves or hobs. The approximate height of the devices themselves is 20-30 centimeters. We add up the maximum dimensions and get 105 centimeters. For comfortable installation of the socket, leave 5 centimeters. As a result, its optimal location will be 110 centimeters from the top of the tabletop.

Despite the fact that a distance to the outlet of the exhaust system of 190 centimeters from the floor or 110 centimeters from the countertop is suitable for the majority of modern hoods and in kitchens of almost any architectural design, it is nevertheless necessary to understand that this is just a universal height, it is not always may be the most suitable for your particular case. As a result, even at the electrical installation stage it is necessary to have a clear plan of your kitchen with the selected electrical equipment

Then you will have the opportunity to very accurately calculate the ideal place for the socket, while taking into account that, as a rule, the length of the power cord for a kitchen hood is no more than 80 cm in length

The method of placing the socket inside the furniture makes it possible to hide the electrical wiring, which corresponds to today's method of arranging electrical points. The close proximity of electrical wiring and wood threatens to create fire hazards.

Requirements for air ducts and electrical networks

The hood parameters determine the load experienced by the ventilation system and electrical wiring. Failure to follow installation instructions may result in the following situations:

change in pressure level in air channels;
increased load on the hood motor;
poor air conductivity;
intensive air flow from the ventilation shaft.

To avoid such problems, it is necessary to take into account the features of the ventilation duct in the house at the stage of selecting a hood, and follow the following recommendations at the installation stage:

reduce the distance from the hood to the ventilation shaft;
use pipes of the same diameter;
install air exhaust ducts strictly according to level;
maintain an angle of 90 degrees if it is necessary to change the direction of the pipe.

Manufacturers of exhaust hoods do not recommend extending the hood cable connected to the outlet yourself. This can lead to oxidation of the wires, which will ultimately cause overload and equipment failure.

When installing an exhaust hood, it is recommended to place the power sources so that, if necessary, you can quickly turn off the kitchen appliances

It is especially important to do this to ensure free access to individual elements of equipment during cleaning. Otherwise, a person will experience a strong electric shock if they come into contact with the metal case or other parts.

The correct location of the outlet for the hood in the kitchen

Installing a power source next to a suspended hood is the most common method of supplying electricity. It is convenient to make such a connection at the design stage of constructing kitchen walls. The structural condition of the walls makes it possible to install the electrical wire using a hidden method. With this arrangement, a hidden type electrical appliance is chosen.

It is recommended to place the power source at a height of 20–40 cm from the working plane of the hood on the left or right side of the air duct. When choosing a side, ease of access to the electrical appliance is taken into account. Some craftsmen try to hide it behind the air duct so that the connection is not visible. But turning the hood on or off from the network with such an installation will be extremely inconvenient. Aesthetic perception fades into the background, especially in case of urgent need to switch off.

You can soften the visual perception of a power source located on the side of the hood

To do this, you need to pay due attention to its color and design when purchasing. This connection will be correct and safe

In the case when you have to deal with installing a socket on already finished walls, external laying of the electrical wire and the use of a surface-mounted electrical device are applicable. Hidden installation is more correct, but if we are talking about a tiled wall, then there are no other options.

When laid open, in accordance with safety requirements, the electrical wire is mounted in a special plastic corrugated braid. This will prevent accidental damage to the electrical cable.

It is possible to install using a combined method, i.e. hidden wiring and surface-mounted sockets or vice versa. Such a performance will not be pleasing to the eye, but will only be able to fulfill its intended purpose.

It is important to use an electrical wire with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm and a socket rated for 16 A. This will preserve the consumer connection network in case of overload or improper use

Most household hoods have an operating current of up to 10 A. But during voltage surges, the design of the electrical part must have a safety margin.

Installing a hood inside the top row of kitchen furniture will greatly simplify the method of connecting to the electrical network

With this design of ventilation equipment for the kitchen, it is important to supply voltage to the top row using a hidden or open method. To do this, they often use a pencil case located close to the top row of shelves.

Installation of electrical wiring inside the furniture will have to be done in a metal corrugation or a special fireproof plastic braid. The current source is installed in close proximity to the hood on the back or side wall of the cabinet.

In accordance with safety requirements, the surface-mounted socket must be installed on a fireproof base. As the latter, a dielectric plate is used that is larger in area than the base of the electrical appliance by 10–15 mm on each side.

Such a connection will be the best from an aesthetic point of view. The technical features of using such installation are less positive. Electrical wiring installed inside furniture made of wood or chipboard has a risk of fire. Strict adherence to the rules and regulations for laying household electrical networks will minimize this risk.

There are different methods for connecting ventilation equipment in domestic premises: with twists, through an automatic device or through a terminal block. Correct and safe in all respects is to connect the hood in the kitchen using a socket. Other methods have greater risks and less reliability.

Number of sockets

How many minimum outlets are required in the kitchen?

Here, follow the rule - for each stationary kitchen appliance, plan your own socket + 2 blocks along the edges of the countertop + 1 piece near the dining table.

The category of stationary appliances includes a refrigerator, range hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposer.

In addition, it doesn’t hurt to mount one socket immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The area with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Place at least two pieces on each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Choosing a place for an outlet for a hood: rules and standards

When the outlet has already been selected and purchased, you need to choose where to place it.

The main rules for choosing a place for sockets for the hood:

You need to decide exactly where and at what height the hood will hang (probably the most important rule). This is necessary so that when choosing a place for an outlet, you can comply with other rules and restrictions (distances to pieces of furniture).
The minimum distance from the power supply point to the kitchen furniture (countertops, cabinets, shelves) is 5 cm.
The minimum distance from the power supply point to the ventilation shaft opening is 20 cm.
It is recommended to make the socket not close to the hood body, but to move away from it about 30 cm to the side. In this case, the heat will not reach the power point, and possible drops of water and fat from the stove will not reach.
There must be grounding, current strength - from 15A.
The total power of kitchen appliances should not exceed 4 kW. If the sum of the power of the kitchen equipment is already or exceeds 4 kW, a separate line must be installed for the hood to avoid overloading the electrical network when all devices are operating simultaneously.
Access to the outlet should not be blocked by furniture or appliances, at least massive and heavy ones (placement inside a closet is allowed). Firstly, you need to see what condition the power point is in. Secondly, in case of problems with it or with the wiring, you will have to move furniture and appliances (and in the kitchen it is often impossible to move a separate piece of furniture).

The height of the outlet for the hood: which one should I use?

The optimal height from the stove (countertop) can be calculated using the following formula:

H vp
+ H v + 5
, where:

Nvp: ;
Hv: the height of the hood itself (body);
5 - half the height of the socket.

Where to make a socket for a “regular” hood (not built-in)?

The reason is that different types of devices have their own connection characteristics:

Built-in (built-in). It is installed in a cabinet, and the socket is usually located there.
Hanging (installation is carried out under the kitchen cabinet, or without it). If you install a hanging hood under a cabinet, then the power supply point can be made inside it.
(ceiling). The most difficult option in terms of installation: attached to the ceiling, away from the wall. Electrical power in this case can be provided by direct connection to the wiring (more on this below). Or, as an option, the power supply point is placed under the ceiling.
Corner, inclined, fireplace, T-shaped. Such devices are connected in the same way, into an outlet near the installation site.

Where and how to make a socket for a built-in hood?

You need to start working after the furniture has been installed. In this case, there are a couple of important rules of the PUE that must be followed:

The socket must be installed on a fireproof base.
“Hidden” wiring that will run inside the kitchen furniture must be laid in a corrugated steel casing for protection.

Do all hoods have a plug?

How to connect it in this case? The options are:

Attach the plug to the wires and connect to the outlet in the usual way.
Connect via Wago terminal blocks.
Connect via terminal block.

Connecting a hood without an outlet to electricity (directly): is it worth doing this?

Do I need an outlet to connect the hood? Necessary, but not mandatory: if necessary, the device can be connected directly to the wiring, without a plug and socket - using terminal blocks.

By yourself or by a designer!

A large number of household appliances used in the kitchen require an increase in the number of electrical outlets. With the ideal location of kitchen outlets, for each household appliance used, you need to plan its own separate outlet. If this is not possible, then you can determine the required number of kitchen outlets based on the following rules.

At what height from the floor are sockets made?

Taking into account the convenience of placing appliances and the frequency of use of kitchen electrical appliances, special rules for the placement of sockets have been formed. Their height has three levels of placement.

The first is the height of sockets from the floor in the kitchen 10-15 cm for an electric stove, refrigerator, dishwasher. It is expedient and practical. Having installed kitchen furniture, access to sockets is left only from below. And the wires will not hang on the walls, but will be hidden aesthetically.
The second is the installation height of sockets from the floor in the kitchen: 110-130 cm: devices for turning on a blender, microwave oven, kettle.
The third - 200-250 cm - the height of the socket for lighting and hood. They are accessible and yet hidden behind the kitchen cabinets above.

An equally important point in the placement of sockets is the required number of them. There is a golden rule here - there is one socket for each stationary kitchen appliance, plus two blocks at the edges of the countertop and another one should be placed near the dining table.

A little about the types of hoods

Modern hoods work in two ways:

the air flow in them constantly circulates through filters (grease and carbon) and returns back to the kitchen - circulation hoods;
the air above the stove is sucked into the air duct and discharged into the ventilation duct of the house - exhaust ventilation;
New generation hoods combine both the first and second methods of air purification.

Connecting hoods of the second and third types is more labor-intensive, because installation of an air duct will be required.

Even more varieties of hoods can be distinguished by considering the method of their installation. In total there are about five of them, but from the point of view of connecting to the electrical network, fundamental differences arise between built-in and island (ceiling) hoods. The first ones are adjacent to the kitchen wall, or built into hanging cabinets, the second ones are attached to the ceiling above the hob, which is located in the center of the room.

How to connect the hood to the ventilation system

Installation features depend on the method of connecting the equipment to the ventilation. You can arrange an exit to a common house shaft or immediately outside the premises. The latter option makes installation significantly easier.

However, the main part of the hoods is supplied to the common shaft. But there are pitfalls here. When soot accumulates in the ventilation pipe, air exchange in other apartments may be disrupted or an air lock may form, blocking the outflow of air. In addition, most of the grille is covered with an air duct, which leaves minimal conditions for normal air exchange in the kitchen.

To prevent the hood from interfering with natural ventilation, you can proceed as follows:

we take a special grille for hoods, a tee and a check valve;
We attach a tee to the grille;
We attach an air duct to the lower entrance of the grille;
We install a check valve on the free outlet so that its bars are locked when the air flow passes from the pipe;
The point is that when the hood is operating, the valve petals are bent. Air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the open outlet of the tee and the grille. When the device rests, the valve plates unfold and air flows into the ventilation system.

If you are not sure that you are ready to regularly clean the entire system, choose a direct outlet outside the premises. You will need to drill a hole in the outside wall using a diamond drill bit. A safety grille with a check valve is installed outside, and an air duct inside. The cracks are sealed with mortar. An exhaust hood is connected to the system. In special cases, the connection is made to a separate ventilation duct.

I note that the anti-return or check valve is a lightweight metal or plastic plate. It is movably fixed on two sections of the pipe (bottom and top). The valve petals are supported by a spring. While the air purifier is not operating, the plates block the access of outside air. When the device is in operation, the air flow bends the plates forward by depressing the spring.

Basic mistakes in the placement of sockets

The importance of the correct location and connection of kitchen outlets cannot be overestimated. Any kitchen, even the most original one, must first of all be safe.

It is not uncommon for owners to underestimate this requirement. This happens mainly due to inexperience, because they do not complete a full renovation of the premises every month.

Among the mistakes made when placing kitchen sockets, there are both frankly gross and insignificant. If minor defects only bring inconvenience and some discomfort during operation, then serious flaws can cause a lot of trouble.

Incorrectly installed wiring can cause a severe fire due to a short circuit

The worst thing is neglect of safety rules

This is when the wiring is laid incorrectly, the material of the walls and the required insulation option in a particular case are not taken into account. Such negligence is fraught with disastrous consequences - in the event of a short circuit, the entire house will be left in a matter of ashes in a matter of minutes

The second serious violation is when all electrical installations are powered from one power cable. This arrangement of sockets in the kitchen does not stand up to criticism, because the line simply will not be able to withstand the voltage.

The result is a completely non-functional room. You should always make sure that only one powerful or 2-3 low-power devices are turned on. This is unacceptable for the kitchen.

The third mistake is if a separate line was not allocated for the electric stove, coming from the panel. This powerful consumer of electrical current will work efficiently only if it is connected correctly.

Fourthly, all sockets hidden under the sink must have an appropriate degree of protection against moisture - at least IP44. Groups of electrical points located in the free access area of children must be equipped with protective curtains.

It is advisable to immediately move incorrectly located sockets to places more suitable for them (+)

Fifthly, for all appliances that work with water, for example, a dishwasher or washing machine, it is important to make a separate supply line. It must be equipped with a residual current device, and it is advisable to install sockets with grounding

In the event of a short circuit, these measures will help protect your home from harm by disconnecting the line.

Minor errors in the placement of kitchen outlets include the inconvenient location of some of their groups. It’s also bad when you forgot to provide a couple of spare points, for example, for a phone or laptop charger.

Sockets that are harmoniously matched to the overall style of the room will not irritate the owner

Another unpleasant drawback is when the color and shape of the body of the installed sockets stands out from the overall design of the room. This usually happens if the owners change the overall concept of the kitchen many times. Having purchased the necessary materials, they suddenly decide to change the color scheme or order other furniture, forgetting about the already installed sockets.

Electrical safety and quick shutdown capability

Since the hood and cooker are made of conductive material, the presence of a power outlet nearby poses a danger to the user. If the insulation of the installation wires is accidentally damaged, dangerous voltage for humans may appear on the body of the hood or stove. For this reason, according to current regulations and safety requirements, the electrical outlet itself and the housings of stoves and hoods must be reliably protected. To do this, you will need to connect the conductive parts of the equipment to a specially equipped grounding device in the house or apartment. For this purpose, the kitchen outlet must have a separate terminal designed specifically for the designated purposes. To quickly shut down in an emergency, it must be placed away from protruding parts of the equipment.

How to connect the hood?

Conclusion

Of all the proposed options, each has its own advantages and disadvantages. You can choose for yourself which option is right for you. But based on experience, the outlet for the hood is the optimal ratio of price and convenience. Well, if you are so confused by its appearance under the ceiling, then by correctly placing the outlet you can almost always visually hide it.

Buying a kitchen hood is an excellent gift not only for any housewife, but also for everyone at home. The statistical majority of families eat in the kitchen every day. Often it is a favorite corner of households and staying guests, a place of intimate conversations and culinary feats. The kitchen room, due to its purpose, needs reliable ventilation. Connecting an exhaust hood in the kitchen perfectly solves the problem of cleaning the air from odors and fumes, but it should be remembered that the exhaust unit is, first of all, an electrical appliance that requires proper connection and maintenance.

Where to begin

To decide how to properly arrange sockets in the kitchen, first of all, a floor plan is drawn up, which will show the location of the furniture and all electrical appliances. Here it would be useful to consult with the person who will be in charge of all this management. There are quite a few little things in this matter, for example, it is desirable that the layout of sockets in the kitchen take into account whether he is left-handed or right-handed, so as not to subsequently get confused in the wires from the mixer or blender.

layout of sockets for electrical appliances (click to enlarge)

When the plan for arranging furniture and appliances is ready, you can now begin placing sockets in the kitchen, given that on most devices the connection wire is rarely longer than one meter. If the total power of two devices does not exceed 3.5 kW, then you should think about how to install a double socket. It is also suitable for permanently installed devices that do not turn on at the same time, but it is better to make calculations with a margin. If now it is difficult to imagine how a dishwasher and oven can be turned on together, then it is unknown what habits will appear later.

A few words about air ducts

The hood kit does not include an air duct. It will have to be purchased separately. It is believed that a metal box with a rectangular cross-section looks more aesthetically pleasing than aluminum corrugation, but it also has its advantages.

Anyone who thinks that corrugation does not look very attractive may be mistaken: under certain conditions, it can even decorate the interior of a room

The corrugation should be selected with a diameter that corresponds to the inlet hole in the upper part of the hood. If the length of this pipe is less than 1.5 meters, then the aerodynamic resistance of this material is practically negligible in comparison with the random losses resulting from turbulence in ventilation. The corrugation is easy to cut with ordinary scissors.

The corrugation can be given a square shape to connect it with the clapperboard. It completely lacks the resonant properties that sometimes occur with rigid boxes. If you still choose to purchase a corrugated stove, then cooking in your home will never be accompanied by a monotonous hum.

Drawing a new line

This method is the most acceptable and safe. It is very popular when connecting a suspended (island) hood. The disadvantage of this method lies in the need to lay an electrical cable from the nearest junction box during renovations in the kitchen, because... work is coming on gating and plastering a section of the wall and ceiling. The new electrical wire for a suspended hood can be hidden behind a suspended ceiling. Undoubtedly, a socket on the ceiling looks unaesthetic, so a connection option via a terminal block or separate terminal blocks is suitable here. Make sure the cables are connected correctly: phase to phase, zero to zero and ground to ground.

Where to place the outlet for the air conditioner

Where should the outlet for the air conditioner be located? There is no strictly regulated standard that regulates its location and the number of connection points to the electrical network in a particular room. The choice of a specific solution is carried out taking into account the following factors:

room design features;
where furniture and household appliances are located;
cross-sectional thickness of electrical wiring;
power of the air conditioners used.

The distance from the outlet point of the electrical network to the ceiling generally does not exceed 30 cm. The height of the air conditioner outlet depends on the installation location of the indoor unit of the air conditioning system. It is usually mounted close to the ceiling surface. Consequently, the socket is placed next to it. Otherwise, the power cord will dangle, negatively affecting the interior of the room.

When installing sockets, the following recommendations must be observed:

the distance between the ceiling covering and the nearest edge of the outlet should not be less than 15 cm; the distance from the ceiling to the connection point is 30 cm; When placing the indoor air conditioner unit in the corner of the room, it is not installed close to the adjacent wall. There should be a space of 20-25 cm between them; when the electrical outlet is located at the bottom of the wall covering, the distance between the floor surface and the bottom edge of the outlet is 10 cm

If you place it lower when performing wet cleaning, you can inadvertently pour water into the connector and damage it; the connection point should be located so that it is not blocked by furniture and household appliances; If you plan to use an existing outlet, you should check the cross-section of the network cable. It is calculated for a certain device power

At what height should I make an air conditioner socket?

You cannot place an electrical circuit connector (socket) for an air conditioner in an apartment at your own discretion, at any height. And although there are no clear rules for choosing a location, you need to follow the standards of PUE 7.1.48 - 1.50, GOST R 50571.11-96 and SP 31-110-2003. They do not contain exact instructions on where to make the outlet. But there are location criteria in relation to the structural elements of the apartment and other components of the room arrangement.

Recommendations for choosing a location:

from the ceiling - from 15 cm;
from the floor surface - from 90 cm;
distance from the window slope – 10 cm;
distance from gas pipelines – 0.5 m.

There are inaccuracies in the list of rules. Thus, the minimum distance from the ceiling is 15 cm. But according to the PUE it should not exceed 30 cm. In this case, it is recommended to count the distance from the ceiling from 30 cm or more.

For a mobile air conditioner, you can use standard connection points in the apartment. Their height relative to the floor is 30 or 90 cm. The first standard is used in Europe, the second remains from Soviet regulatory documents

It is important to consider the maximum load

We recommend a useful article about which air conditioner is better to choose - inverter or conventional.

Choosing a place to place an outlet for an air conditioner

Although many people think that there are certain criteria regarding the choice of the place where the outlet for a household air conditioner should be located, their location and quantity do not matter at all. Each case involves consideration of questions about the number of electrical appliances and their power, as well as the interior and localization of furniture.

You can install further, but in this case the wire will greatly spoil the aesthetics of the interior. There may not be enough wire length to connect, and then you will have to solve the problem with the help of an extension cord. The length of the cord from the internal air conditioner module is no more than 1 m, so be guided by this parameter. Tips from experts on the rules for locating an outlet for a household air conditioner:

the ideal distance from the ceiling is 15–30 cm;
when the module is localized in the central area of the wall, the distance to the nearest wall from the electrical unit should be at least 20 cm;
if the outlet is planned to be located at the bottom of the wall, then the distance from it to the floor should be at least 10 cm.

The electrical unit for the air conditioner should be freely accessible; furniture and equipment should not be placed near it.

Placement of sockets in the apartment

How can you organize an inspection?

During the inspection of supply and exhaust systems, the compliance of air exchange in rooms of different purposes with the requirements of the project and sanitary standards is revealed. When in good condition, properly designed ventilation shafts are visually hidden and their operation is inaudible. There are several ways to check the ventilation in an apartment.

Match

Bring a match, lighter or candle to the ventilation duct

The effect of a lit candle (match). Bringing a burning flame to a ventilation grille in a bathroom or kitchen to a duct closed by the grille will show the operation of the ventilation. If the vertical column of flame, when the vent (window) is open, deviates into the room or remains in the same position, then the system is not working properly. But this method is dangerous and is not recommended by employees of the gas supply organization. If there is a gas leak in the house, an open candle flame can cause an explosion.

Paper

A safe, but no less effective “paper” option. When the window is open, a sheet of newspaper or other thin paper placed against the grille should adhere tightly to it and be held in place by the rod.

Working ventilation will attract a sheet of paper

These methods are justified only in the cold season. In the heat, at almost the same temperatures outside and inside the room, the laws of physics regarding the displacement of warm light masses by colder air do not apply. Therefore, regular ventilation is organized. If malfunctions in the ventilation operation are detected, measures are taken to eliminate them.

Devices

A professional ventilation inspection provides an assessment of the degree of blockage in floor and building ventilation ducts. The power of air draft and the degree of “suction” that occurs due to the formation of low pressure are checked.

Surface preparation

The hood helps eliminate unpleasant problems that usually arise during the cooking process: fat settling, evaporation, unpleasant persistent odors. She draws all the dirt into herself and removes it. But the full functioning of the device depends on its correct installation.

Before installing the hood, it is worth considering its location in advance. Of course, it should be installed above a gas stove, but you should also not forget to pay attention to the quality of the wall surface. For this reason, in order to choose the right area for installing this product, it is worth studying the important features:

First of all, it is recommended to check the quality of the walls. To install this system, you should choose a strong and durable wall that is made of a high-quality base;
the most suitable option for installing a hood is a wall surface made of concrete or brick;
It is imperative to prepare fasteners; they must fully fit the selected base;
When installing a hood, it is worth considering that it must be located above the stove at the correct height.

A wall made of concrete or brick is suitable for installation.

Particular importance is given to height; the correct functioning of this device depends on it. So, in order to correctly determine the required height level, you should follow the following recommendations:

the permissible height above the surface of the electric stove is 65 cm;
the maximum height above the surface of the gas height should be 75 cm;
It is imperative that the lower limits be strictly observed, otherwise the device may fail during heating and melt;
the upper boundaries of the product must be adjusted to the growth of the owner;
You definitely need to know the correct width parameters, they should be the same as for a gas stove - 50-60 centimeters.

Once the surface for installation has been selected and a suitable hood model has been purchased, you can begin installation. The structure, which will be installed and connected in accordance with all rules and recommendations, will be able to last for a long time.