How to make an LED lamp for an aquarium with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

For lush growth of vegetation and the full-fledged existence of pets, properly organized lighting for the aquarium is necessary. Aquatic plants require artificial lighting to a greater extent than fish, shrimp and crayfish. You can make a light for an aquarium yourself, which will allow you to significantly save money. The main thing is to take into account all the factors and listen to the advice of experts.

Lamp spectrum selection

There is always a debate among aquariumists about the choice of spectrum. It is especially fueled by advertisements about the need to use the very, very best spectrum of a particular company.

As stated above, there is no spectrum that “helps” plants and “hurts” algae. If you have a fairly “good” spectrum, then intensity is more important to you than spectrum. If you have enough light, then the spectrum is not very important, and if you do not have light, then the spectrum will not help you. This is also evidenced by the successful cultivation of plants under the light of conventional lamps - LB (Coolwhite) or a combination of LB/LD (coolwhite/daylight) with electric lamps.

Selection of technical parameters

When creating aquarium lighting, the main goal is to imitate sunlight as closely as possible. Since almost the entire aquarium “population” comes from the equator, it is necessary to recreate the tropical regime. Firstly, it is the same (or almost the same) duration of daylight throughout the year (10-12 hours).

Lighting an aquarium with your own hands is not an easy task, but everything can be done...

Secondly, variable lighting intensity: peak at noon and several subsequent hours and moderate lighting at other times of the day. If the lighting of the aquarium is done according to these principles, its inhabitants will delight you with bright colors, and the plants will delight you with lush greenery and rapid growth. Such “multi-level” lighting can be implemented using a large number of lamps (not one powerful one, but several less powerful ones) and a timer/controller that will automatically change the light level.

Lamp power calculation

A preliminary estimate of the lamp power required to illuminate an aquarium can be based on the common principle of determining the required lighting by the amount of water in the container. Exactly water. Not the volume of the jar, but the amount of water. That is, the air gap and the volume displaced by soil must be subtracted from the volume of the container. Based on the amount of water received and the type of aquarium (sea, freshwater, herbal), and the type of inhabitants (bottom-dwelling, shade-loving or light-loving), the approximately required lighting power is calculated. Different types of aquariums have their own recommendations, which are summarized in a table for convenience.

According to this table

Knowing the volume of water in your aquarium, using this table it is easy to calculate the required lamp power. But the data is given for incandescent and halogen lamps. If you use them to illuminate the aquarium, no problem. If you decide to use other types, you will have to recalculate. You can do this again like this:

• when using fluorescent lamps, their power is calculated as 1/3 of the found figure;
• when installing LEDs - 1/7.

Approximately the same pattern is reflected in the next photo. You can also navigate using the table.

You can recalculate the lighting power of the aquarium using this table

Don't think that's all. You also need to take into account a bunch of factors - the depth of the aquarium, the transparency of the water, the height of the light source... And each of these parameters can make adjustments to the found figure. Moreover, many aquarists believe that the optimal lighting for an aquarium can only be selected experimentally, since there are not so many “theoretical” calculations and it is simply unrealistic to take into account all the factors. So making aquarium lighting with your own hands is not easy. But we have already found the base - the approximate brightness of the light sources. You can rely on this figure and change it later.

Taking into account the depth of the aquarium

As you know, when passing through water, light significantly loses its brightness. It is generally accepted that every 10 cm takes away 50% of its brightness. That is, if the illumination on the surface is 2000 Lux, at a depth of 50 cm there will already be a little more than 60 Lux. This situation is clearly demonstrated in the following figure. Therefore, the higher the tank, the brighter the lighting should be.

The depth of the aquarium should also be taken into account when calculating lighting

The normal condition of the aquarium will only be if the light reaches its bottom in the required amount. The minimum illumination at the bottom should be 60-90 lm. Knowing the parameters of your container and the calculated brightness of the lighting, you can calculate the approximate amount of light that will reach the bottom. If it is below the specified norm, increase the brightness until it is within the required limits.

Selecting a manufacturer of LED elements

Aquarium lighting with LED lamps is becoming increasingly popular. Today, LED lighting is offered by several companies:

• Aqua Med.
• Aquael.
• Hagen.
• Juwel.
• Sera.
• Dennerle.

In addition to those officially existing, there is a huge list of companies from China where LED products can be purchased for a lower amount. In this case, you will have to check the quality yourself. But one thing is known for sure: the parameters of Chinese LEDs differ by an order of magnitude to a lesser extent. That is, if the luminosity of European and Japanese LEDs corresponds to the parameters, then the Chinese ones will shine weaker.

LED strip for aquarium use in lighting.

Using LED strip lighting.

Below are step-by-step instructions for setting up optimal aquarium lighting.

• Set of tools.
• A lid (box) for placing parts and finished units.
• Protective glass that protects them from moisture.
• LED strip type 3528 with 60 elements per meter. B p 12 volts.
• Soldering iron
• related materials
• copper wire.

Manufacturing technology.

Four segments are cut along the length of the lid, according to the markings on the tape. Each 5 cm module contains 3 pieces. LEDs. The ends are cleaned, exposing two current-carrying paths from the silicone film. One of them is positive, the second is negative. This operation is performed with all four segments. Seven ends are prepared for soldering, except for the eighth, which is not used in the diagram. First, connect two segments into one tape, observing the “+” and “-” indications. Check operation by connecting to a power supply that has the same polarity symbols. And also perform with two other segments. The connecting wires are measured in length in advance, avoiding sagging when installing the cover. Having soldered, the four segments are checked by connecting to the b/p. Control wire connections. All contacts are protected with insulating sealant. The prepared tape circuit is ready for installation. It is degreased with acetone, alcohol, and solvent. Then, with the adhesive part of the CD, all four strips are pressed. Rubber stops are fixed at the corners of the cover, adding rigidity to the structure. They hold the protective glass, which has been previously wiped. Having installed it on rubber stops, all joints around the perimeter are filled with sealant. To avoid contact with the body of the aquarium, the same pieces are glued to the protective glass of the lid, serving as a stop. The finished device is checked by connecting to the power supply.

Finished products for homemade work.

Diodes with the required parameters are selected from the existing assortment in light or aquarium stores. RGB tapes, different power LEDs, as well as STAR circuit boards (stars). Matrices 10-100 watts. Lenses, aluminum boards, radiators of different sizes, current sources 300-4500 mA, dimmer 2 starting from 350 mA, impenetrable and open LEDs, RGB controllers 3. Soft wires 1.5 mm. Fans for a personal computer for 12 V. Sockets and connectors for mounting lamps. Necessary components produced by popular manufacturers of LED products: Aquael, Hagen, Juwel, Aqua medic, Dennerie, Sera.

• Adapter is a connecting device.
• A dimmer is an electronic design that expands the functionality of LED lamps.
• RGB controller is a device for controlling the radiation mode and adjusting the light.

Selection of LEDs

To choose the right LED strip lighting, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

• aquarium size;
• species of fish and plants living in the reservoir;
• degree of moisture protection and moisture insulation (IP) of the tape;
• power and brightness of LEDs;
• LED strip length;
• duration of backlight operation.

In most cases, LED lighting is mounted in the lid of the aquarium, but to decorate a home pond, you can place it on the bottom and walls around the perimeter. Only IP68 waterproof tape is installed under water. Do not forget that long-term illumination from the depths of the tank can negatively affect the behavior of fish and plant growth.

If only fish live in the aquarium, then you can use the simplest LED strip with a white light spectrum. But you shouldn’t go too far: if there is too much light, the inhabitants of the aquarium may begin to get sick, and the water will acquire an unpleasant odor and become cloudy.

For a pond with plants, you should be more careful in choosing the light spectrum, the power of the lamps and their placement in the tank. In addition, algae require red-orange and violet-blue lighting, preferably combined with each other.

Types of LED lamps

The variety of LED lighting options for an aquarium confuses a person when choosing. Let's look at the types of LED light sources and how to install them. This will help you make your choice when making your own lighting.

LED Strip Light

LED strip is available in various classes of protection from dust and water.

If you plan to use the tape for mounting on the aquarium lid, protection class IP65 is suitable for you. It is protected from splashes and large drops, but cannot be immersed in water. She will feel great near/above water.

In some cases, to illuminate plants located near the bottom and in places with complex terrain, you need to use an LED strip laid along the bottom of the aquarium. You can place it outside the aquarium with the LEDs facing inward, or in the water, placing it on the bottom.

In such cases, use only IP68 rated tape. It is used to illuminate the bottom of fountains, pools and aquariums. The main task is to ensure reliable insulation of the connection point of the supply wires.

Colored lighting in an aquarium looks interesting. Use RGB tape to add some color to your interior. Please note that a long show of this kind can negatively affect the flora and fauna of the aquarium.

Blue illuminated aquarium at night

Lighting with powerful diodes (1-3 or more watts)

Such diodes must be installed on a heat sink; this can be either an aluminum sheet, a common radiator, or radiators for individual LEDs. LEDs can be mounted on the lid of the aquarium. Install diverging lenses on them to ensure greater uniformity of light flux.

There are no special nuances here; detailed production with photos and examples is discussed further in the “do-it-yourself” section.

Aquarium lighting with LED lamps and spotlights

The easiest way is to use a ready-made product, such as an LED floodlight. It provides good brightness and quality of light, and the wattage range they are sold in will allow you to choose the ideal LED lighting option for your aquarium.

Lighting with conventional LED lamps is also possible, but the main task will be their placement and protection from moisture. If the lamps do not come into contact with moisture, this is a good and budget solution.

Selection rules

When choosing an LED lamp, consider:

1. what plants and fish live in the aquarium;
2. product reviews;
3. luminous flux intensity;
4. color temperature.

For the remaining lamps, the correct selection of power will be required. The table below shows the characteristics of different light sources.

Lighting calculation

Luminous power is calculated in lumens (Lm) and characterizes the light source. The level of illumination characterizes the surface on which the light falls and changes in lux (Lx). 1 Lx = 1 Lm/m2. For a pond with unpretentious plants, 3000–6000 Lx is sufficient. 6000–10000 Lux for more demanding plants. To equip a herbalist you will need 10,000–15,000 Lux. Light power is calculated in three steps:

1. Find the area of ​​the illuminated surface.
2. Determine the required level of illumination.
3. Multiply the area and the light level.

For example, the area of ​​a tank with a width of 1 m and a height of 0.7 m is 0.7 m 2. For example, let’s take the required illumination level of 10,000 Lux. We multiply 10000 and 0.7 and get 7000 Lm.

How much LED light is required per liter?

Based on the efficiency of the lamp and the type of aquarium, a minimum of 15 Lm will be required for each liter of water. For moderate flora growth 25–40 lm. More active growth of herbalist requires a light power of 40–55 Lm/l.

Power selection

Inexpensive diodes produce 80–100 Lm/W. LEDs from famous brands up to 140 Lm/W. On average, for a 100-liter aquarium you will need 2 LED spotlights of 25 W each or one of 50 W. For a 50-liter container, two medium-power LED lamps are enough.

Colorful temperature

Select lamps of different spectrums: blue, red, white and green. Be careful with the latter, a little green light is required. You can get by exclusively with white-spectrum LED lamps; in this case, the lighting of the aquarium will be less close to realistic. Sometimes a phytolamp is used to diversify the spectrum, but you should be careful with it, otherwise you can get an outbreak of algae. Color temperature is measured in kelvins (K). Some spectrum values:

1. Up to 4000 K – red;
2. From 6000 K – blue-violet;
3. 3500–5000 K – white;
4. 2500–2800 K – yellow.

How to count incorrectly

The common method of calculating W/L is incorrect. It was relevant for incandescent lamps. The luminous flux of LED lamps at similar powers is much stronger. Calculation according to this scheme leads to the choice of a lamp that is too powerful. The error is possible by 2 or even 3 times.

Pros and cons of LED backlighting

After the appearance of LED lamps on the lighting market, they took a leading position among aquarists. Their popularity is explained by characteristics that distinguish them from other types of lamps.

Advantages of LED light sources:

1. Energy efficiency. LEDs consume little electricity, but still emit bright light.
2. High efficiency and low heat dissipation. LED bulbs practically do not heat up even after 10 hours of operation. Therefore, an additional cooling system is not needed.
3. Strength. LED crystals are resistant to vibrations and fluctuations, which cannot be said about light bulbs with thin spirals.
4. Long service life. Diode light sources can last about 5 years if used correctly.
5. Wide spectral range. Diode bulbs have a richer emission spectrum and high luminous efficiency than other types of light sources. Crystals of different colors can be installed in one lighting device to create favorable conditions for plants and fish.
6. Safety. These light sources are maximally protected from moisture and fireproof.
7. Environmental friendliness. LED lamps do not contain toxic substances and do not emit ultraviolet rays. Therefore, they are safer for aquatic life.

The disadvantages of LED crystals include their high cost and the need to install additional equipment (power supply, dimmer). However, the extra expenses will quickly pay off due to energy savings.

As you can see, LED lighting has more pros than cons. That is why such light sources are very popular.

Underwater lighting capabilities

Additional lighting for the aquarium, if necessary, is created by underwater lighting. Such lamps are attached to the walls using special suction cups and decorated with aquatic vegetation or stones.

An underwater lamp is a light source of different operating principles, placed in a sealed flask, which helps prevent danger to aquarium fish and other representatives of flora and fauna living in an artificial ecosystem.

The industry produces devices that emit light in the following spectrum tones:

• white;
• red;
• blue;
• green.

They help improve the illumination of the aquarium and enhance its decorative functions in the interior of the room.

Thanks to the use of LEDs and having certain knowledge in electrical engineering, many aquarists equip such devices themselves.

The organization of proper diffuse lighting of the aquarium is of great importance for the normal functioning of a closed ecosystem, affecting the metabolic processes of plants, photosynthesis and, consequently, the saturation of the aquatic environment with oxygen necessary for the life of living organisms.

In addition, skillfully created lighting and illumination allows you to turn an ordinary glass container into an original element of room design, attract the eyes of visitors and watch with interest the life of the inhabitants behind the glass, both in a small and large marine aquarium.

Lamp power calculation

Let’s decide on the required lighting intensity: – 20..30 Lm/liter is enough for the normal growth of Vallisneria, Anubias, Echinodorus and other undemanding plants. – 40 Lm/liter most demanding plants grow well (Cuba spreads along the bottom, Blixa, Ludwigia brevipes, Didiplis, Eusteralis stellata, Limnophila aromatica grow well). – 60 Lm/liter the above plants intensively gain red color (with a sufficient level of microelements). – >60Lm/liter – for growing dense mats of lileopsis, parvula in deep aquariums – in this case, the daylight hours should be divided into several phases, in which the lamp operates at 100% for a couple of hours and at reduced power the rest of the time.

I take the example of a 100-200l aquarium . We count the number of LEDs by channel:

TOTAL: 7980lm, 48pcs of LEDs
Total we get ~7980lm, Chinese... Accordingly, we take somewhere 6000-6500lm pure at 100% power for a 100-200l aquarium will be quite enough. Red/blue ratio = 3:1, according to all the rules. Well, for a tasty treat, all channels are dimmable!

Range

But another parameter of light, the spectrum, not only clearly demonstrates a certain color and is responsible for the beauty of the picture, but also significantly affects the health of underwater greenery.

As you know, light is a wave. For our eyes, visible waves are in the range of 380-780 Nm. If the wave is longer or, on the contrary, shorter, then we simply will not see it.

But it is in this range that we perceive all other waves as different colors. Yellow-green-red, etc.

At the same time, we came up with names for them ourselves and agreed among ourselves on such a gradation.

we call the shortest waves violet

the longest ones are in red

And between them there is a whole bunch of shades and colors. So, in contrast to the color temperature discussed above, there are already significant differences in what color to shine on underwater plants. In principle, the same applies to ground-based ones.

Depending on this, their photosynthesis will also change. Here is this dependence in the form of a visual graph.

What conclusions can be drawn by looking at it? If you have a light-loving plant in your aquarium, give it more red and blue shades. And then everything will be fine with him.

But if you have placed so-called ground-bloods that adore shade on the bottom, then it is enough to shine only blue light on them.

But if you make a mistake and choose sources with large peaks of red and blue, where they are not needed, the plants will have big troubles in the form of threads, beards, etc.

When buying light bulbs, pay attention to the packaging. The spectrum that predominates in a given light source is usually indicated there.

How to secure

The line of lamps on sale is constantly expanding. Manufacturers offer low-power devices with blue light, suitable for nocturnal fish species. For small tanks, pendant lights with a power of 3 and 6 W are suitable. For large aquariums, lamps with the ability to adjust their length are an excellent solution.

The use of lamps that emit a large amount of heat in a spotlight requires the additional installation of a cooler (fan) above the aquarium.

The easiest homemade lighting option is considered to be a device located in a plane parallel to the bottom of the aquarium. This way the lighting is more uniform.

Homemade LED devices are divided into three types:

• fixed to the lid;
• suspended with adjustable height;
• fixed above the aquarium.

If you lack experience in electrical engineering and soldering, it is recommended to choose LED strips instead of discrete LEDs. At the stage of planning the installation of lighting, it is also necessary to provide for a convenient location of sockets.

Depending on the selected light source, the installation method differs:

• Low-power tapes that do not require additional cooling can be glued directly to the lid.
• More powerful diodes can be placed on a cover made of heat-conducting material.

When deciding to illuminate the aquarium with tape, you can use the body of a fluorescent lamp lamp. To do this, the plastic pipe is “wrapped” with LED strip.

The use of powerful discrete LEDs (3 W) is allowed, but subject to additional cooling. The required radiator area is determined at the rate of 25 sq.cm. at 1 W.

The LEDs are secured with hot-melt adhesive or heat-conducting paste, and on the radiator with self-tapping screws. If cooling is insufficient, you must additionally install a cooler (you can use a cooler from a computer power supply).

Spotlights are usually installed on the wall of the aquarium. Flat models can also be attached to the lid (provided they do not interact with water). Self-tapping screws and dowels are used as fasteners.

Spotlights are usually installed on the wall of the aquarium; flat models can also be mounted on the lid

Thus, DIY lighting is the best solution for a home aquarium. With a comprehensive assessment of the characteristics of the tank and its population, you can choose the optimal ratio of the amount and color of the required light. Modern technologies make it possible to automatically turn on and off the backlight, which will allow you to control the activity of aquarium inhabitants using a given daylight hours.

Tell us in the comments about the lighting system in your aquarium!

Aquarium lighting with LED lamps and spotlights

LED lamps are produced in a linear type (as a rule, this is a modular design of several light bulbs connected by a special cord with connectors and an adapter) and with sockets of different sizes.
The lids of some 50-liter aquariums have sockets for lamps with E27 and E14 sockets.

If the aquarium is open, then you can use an LED spotlight, which will provide powerful lighting. For an aquarium with a volume of 100 liters, one 50 W spotlight or, for example, two 25 W each will be sufficient.

In the aquarium hobby, LED lamps of the T8 or T5 type are most widely used. The first type is cheaper, the second is more expensive, but its characteristics are higher.

How much light is needed: calculation

Depending on the power of the luminous flux, the illumination can be:

• low – up to 0.3 W per liter;
• moderate - up to 0.4 W per liter;
• average - up to 0.55 W per liter;
• high – up to 0.7 W per liter.

There are several formulas for calculating the number of light bulbs and their power, depending on the type of fish, the number of plants, the size of the aquarium, necessary for proper lighting. However, all calculation data will not be 100% accurate, and its correctness will be visible in practice over time.

Conclusions about the correctness of lighting. After 2 months, according to the state of the plants, we can say that:

• the lighting is correct. The leaves are of normal size and color, the length of the internodes is up to 1 cm;
• bad light. Internodes have a length of 3 cm or more, the section of the stem near the ground is without leaves. It is necessary to increase the light or change the type of lamps (to lamps with a different spectrum), as well as weeding the plants.

Monitoring oxygen saturation is also important. At the beginning of daylight, oxygen saturation should be from 5 mg/l, and at the end - 8-10 mg/l. If the indicators are met, the lighting is correct.

Small leaf blades indicate either a lack of nutrition or too much light.

How to position aquarium lighting

An aquarium is an interior design element that should fit organically into the overall style of the room. Lighting plays a big role here. It is incorrect to place lamps behind the back wall of the tank, as inexperienced users do. The lamp can be located in front of the aquarium, on top, on the lid, on the sides. If the tank does not have a lid, then the lamps are placed above it.

When using colored and white light simultaneously, it is better to place colored lamps in the foreground, and white lamps in the back. Then you will get an extraordinary iridescence effect on fish scales and plant leaves.

Flickering light will be detrimental for fish, which leads them to severe depression. Also, colored lamps cannot be used as functional lighting. But they can be used as decorative lighting in addition to the main lighting.

Number of lamps and their placement

Economy variant diodes have a power of 80-10 lm per watt. For products from well-known brands it is higher - 140 Lm per watt. Therefore, for a 100 liter aquarium, a tape is suitable, the total area of ​​​​the diodes will be 50 W. You can also use one or two spotlights, the power of which will not exceed 50 W.

For a 100 liter aquarium, a tape with a total diode area of ​​50 W is suitable

It is worth considering that if the container is densely planted with plants, the power of the LEDs should be slightly increased.

Mode, calculation of aquarium lighting

When setting up an aquarium, special importance is attached to lighting. The thing is that the health of the inhabitants of the aquarium, as well as their color, depends on its quality. Lighting also affects the general condition of underwater plants. That is why this issue should be taken with full responsibility.

On average, it is recommended to light an aquarium for at least twelve hours a day. Among aquarists, this period is called a tropical day. In order for plants and fish to develop evenly, lighting is placed in the upper part of the aquarium above the water, mainly on the lid.

It is worth noting that many plants that live in water move their leaves to the central part of the rosette at night. They can also close growth points. As a rule, this happens closer to nine o'clock in the evening. Thus, plants demonstrate that photosynthesis, which is carried out with the help of light, is over. This sets the lighting mode for the aquarium.

The absence of bright night lighting is essential for plants. The thing is that at this time of day they are engaged in the assimilation and processing of carbon accumulated during daytime photosynthesis

Therefore, it is very important for plants to observe the alternation of day and night.

Fish are also sensitive to the change of day: it has a significant impact on the behavior of pets. In the dark, fish that were too active during the day rest, they swim slowly and even freeze for several hours. Those fish that naturally become active as night falls begin to show signs of life.

For example, there is a type of catfish that does not leave their shelters during the day even if they are very hungry. Therefore, if such fish live in an aquarium, it is necessary to add food for them before turning off the lights.

The calculation of aquarium lighting is made depending on what types of plants and fish live in it. Some experts believe that to achieve the desired level of lighting, it is enough to install the aquarium so that it receives natural light.

It is worth noting that exposure to sunlight causes water to overheat, algae begin to grow much faster, and the water may even “bloom.” First of all, fish suffer from this. That is why the right solution would be to use special aquarium lamps. In order not to have to constantly switch lamps when you need to switch from day mode to night mode and vice versa, you can use special timers.

Correct connection of homemade lighting

When working on a lamp, do not forget a few simple rules:

1. Diodes are connected differently than other lamps - it is important to maintain the polarity, otherwise they will not light.
2. An LED strip or chain of LEDs must be connected strictly through a power supply (driver); it cannot be connected directly to the network.
3. We recommend not to forget about the reflector. Without it, plants and fish on the sides of the main direction of radiation will wither and die, but with a reflector, the entire aquarium will receive the same amount of light.
4. Do not skimp on components, especially when it comes to the electrical part. Chinese LEDs do not work well, they quickly fail and often do not produce the characteristics stated on the packaging. It is better to purchase more expensive analogues from large manufacturers. The same applies to other components.
5. For a full day of light, fish and plants need from 8 to 12 hours.

LED bulbs

The simplest option for creating LED lighting in an aquarium is LED lamps. This is primarily suitable for small aquariums up to 50 l. Their covers often already contain sockets intended for conventional classic incandescent lamps with E27 and E14 sockets. For such options, all that remains is to select and purchase a light bulb of the required power and light temperature.

More expensive options will be ready-made rectangular-shaped LED panels of a certain length for ready-made aquariums of standard sizes. This LED aquarium light will be very easy to install. For example, you can look at equipment from the well-known company Aqualighter.

Why is lighting needed?

Aquarium fish and cultivated plants cannot exist without sunlight or artificial light. Under high-quality lighting, aquatic flora actively participates in the process of photosynthesis: absorbs carbon dioxide, nitrates and nitrites, while simultaneously saturating the water with life-giving oxygen.

Light is required by fish and other aquatic organisms. It allows them to maintain a daily routine of waking and falling asleep. It is necessary not only to choose the right lighting power, but also its duration. The latter factor will be especially important for plants, as it prevents the growth of unwanted algae.

Without proper lighting, only plastic artificial plants can be planted in an aquarium, the appearance of which is far from ideal. But if you want to create a real underwater garden in an aquarium with beautiful plants and bright tropical fish, then you cannot do without high-quality light.

Advantages and disadvantages of LED strip for aquarium lighting

Most often, LED strip is used to illuminate an aquarium, and this has its advantages:

1. LEDs do not generate heat during operation. This is a significant advantage compared to conventional incandescent lamps and other types of lamps. Thanks to this, the water does not overheat and there are no conditions for the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Algae, fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium live longer and do not get sick, and the owner of the tank can always enjoy the beauty of this little world.
2. Thanks to LEDs, aquarium lighting is maintained around the clock. Modern programmable devices independently determine the time of day using a light sensor and, when required, turn the lamps on or off, setting them to the appropriate brightness.
3. LED waterproof lamps (class IP-65) are not affected by water and remain operational for an almost unlimited period of time.
4. LED aquarium lights are completely safe and economical. They operate under direct current and a voltage of no more than 12 volts, generated by a power supply from a standard household network. Therefore, short circuits and the danger of electric shock during their operation are not dangerous either for the inhabitants of the aquarium or for its owners.
5. LEDs are more economical and durable than incandescent lamps. With the same light power, they consume 10 times less energy. In addition, they do not burn out and last up to 100 thousand hours.
6. Wide range of colors. Lamps emit in all possible ranges of the visible spectrum of light radiation. This allows you to solve any bold design ideas and give the small underwater world truly unsurpassed unique artistic touches in the design.
7. LED strips, lamps, spotlights, matrices, individual LEDs are easy to install. Some models are equipped with a self-adhesive backing specifically for this purpose.
8. LEDs do not contain harmful substances and do not produce ultraviolet, infrared and other harmful radiation.

Of course, like any other lighting system, LED aquarium lighting is not without its drawbacks. This is primarily the high cost. If you take into account all the advantages, then such a minus easily pays off. Another drawback is the need to select lighting conditions. However, this is typical for any aquarium lighting system.

To benefit from light for underwater flora and fauna, you need to be patient, begin to observe and note all the processes that occur, building patterns from them for better growth of plants, fish and other organisms. For example, if after installing lamps in water, plants begin to grow, but are not sufficiently developed, then there is not enough light, the lighting intensity needs to be added or the color changed.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=2GzkJgGj_28

Lamp selection technology

Only at first glance it seems that lighting in an aquarium, made by yourself, is a very complex matter, requiring certain knowledge and skills. It is enough to understand the types of lamps, understand their differences from each other in order to correctly select a lamp.

It is necessary to understand the types of lamps in order to choose the right lamp

Selection by lamp type

Lamps for aquarium lighting can be:

• halogen;
• metal halide;
• luminescent;
• LED

As an option, incandescent lamps are also used for lighting. But the low efficiency ensures a huge production of thermal energy, while there is not enough energy left for the emission of light for the development of plants.

For example, a classic tank requires a minimum illumination of 6000 Lumens (according to the formula 1 Lux = 1 Lumen * 1 sq. m of aquarium area). Incandescent lamps here should produce a power of 400 W. This will no longer be a lamp, but a heater. Even a fan cannot cope with removing such an amount of heat. Halogen lamps have similar disadvantages. Also, incandescent and halogen lamps are uneconomical. When using them, you will need to install a cooler in the aquarium, which will entail additional material costs. The advantage of such lighting is its affordable price and optimal brightness of light, which is similar to natural solar radiation.

How do you know if the lighting is correct?

Ecobalance is affected by proper lighting and water pollution. It is not uncommon for the water to begin to bloom and become cloudy. This phenomenon indicates incorrect lighting. It provokes the active growth of pathogenic microorganisms. When aquarium inhabitants swim in polluted water only near the surface of the container, this indicates a lack of air and a strong excess of light.

If, after installing a homemade lamp, all aquarium inhabitants are still comfortable after 50-100 days, then this indicates the correct selection of optimal lighting. Necessary signs should be clear water and actively growing plants. Aquarium inhabitants must show interest in food. The appearance of new offspring should be observed.

With a lack of lighting, algae begin to lose their color. The appearance of plants begins to upset aquarists. A “black beard” forms on the stem and leaves. A dark coating indicates severe contamination of the container and lack of lighting.

When installing a lighting fixture, it is necessary to avoid directing light to the bottom of the container. Under natural conditions, the bottom of reservoirs is illuminated by the sun's rays. They pass through the water from top to bottom. Therefore, reverse lighting can cause severe harm to algae.

Mr. Tail Recommends: Types of Bulbs to Use

To organize proper lighting for the aquarium, you can use various types of lamps.

Halogen and incandescent lamps

Both types of lamps are similar in their low efficiency (efficiency), with only 3% of their power being spent on emitting light waves and 97% on generating heat.

These devices have only two advantages over others - a low price category and a warm radiation spectrum. But in an aquaterrarium for aquatic turtles, for example, red-eared turtles, they are great, since heating of the environment is more necessary there.

They should not be used for an aquarium with fish, as this can cause overheating of the water and even burn the delicate underwater inhabitants.

If they are nevertheless used in small water reservoirs, then they must install a cooler - a special device for cooling (usually a small fan), which is not always able to cope with the task. In addition, the cost of such lighting will be very high.

Metal halogen lamps

They are an ideal choice for artificial reservoirs with a fairly large depth (at least 60 cm) and an abundance of aquatic plants.

These light waves have a wide emission spectrum, high brightness and penetrating power, and a long service life.

In addition, they make it possible to create lighting that is quite close to natural in natural bodies of water. Therefore, they are often used in marine aquariums or aquascapes for decorative contrast lighting.

The main thing is not to forget that the duration of cold spectra should be minimal.

But metal-halogen lamps also get very hot, which requires installing them at least 30 cm from the surface of the water and equipping them with a cooler.

Fluorescent lamps

Household modifications of these devices do not have very good penetrating ability, so they are used only for small tanks (no deeper than 50 cm).

Fluorescent lamps of the HO (High Output) and VHO (Very High Output) classes are much more powerful and are used even for deep aquariums. But more often in aquariums they use T5 and T8 devices, designed specifically for these purposes.

T8 has the best price-quality ratio, while T5 has better penetration and brightness, but is much more expensive. The trigger devices for T5 and T8 are different, they are not interchangeable, so aquarists more often use figure-eight lamps.

Although these devices are economical and durable, they have one significant drawback - gradual “burnout”, that is, a weakening of the glow intensity, and therefore a change in the spectrum of light radiation. Therefore, in reality they have to be changed almost every six months, although they can work for the same amount of time with reduced power.

Today, compact fluorescent lamps have appeared, differing from conventional ones only in the shape of the spiral and, as a result, in their reduction in length. They are rarely used in aquarium keeping and are less convenient.

LED devices

Today, LED lamps have become the most optimal solution for organizing lighting in an aquarium. They have high efficiency, which means there is no need to remove heat from the surface of the water. The outer side is heated; it is usually mounted on a metal plate and, if necessary, forcedly cooled.

LED lamps have high brightness and penetrating power with low power consumption, that is, they are economical. In addition, these devices allow you to adjust the brightness of the lighting, which is an important advantage.

Their only drawback can be considered their high cost, but this is made up for by their long service life.

Today you can purchase the following LED devices for your aquarium:

• Individual lamps with a power of 1 or 3 W.

• Special tapes. Powerful ones are expensive, but with their help it is very easy and convenient to arrange proper lighting in the aquarium.

• Corn type. These are several LEDs collected into one beam, reminiscent in shape of a regular incandescent lamp.

• Tubular. They resemble fluorescent lamps in shape, only thinner and smaller, and an order of magnitude more powerful.

LED lamps also fade over time and “burn out,” but this happens much more slowly than fluorescent lamps.

The technical capabilities of these devices, in addition, make it possible to regulate the length of light waves in such a way that the entire illumination of the aquarium will be multi-colored, and beautiful reflections will play on the “mirror” surface, walls, and bottom of the tank.

LED lighting calculation

Calculation of LED lighting for an aquarium is made based on approximate standards for this type of tank. For example, it is assumed that 1 liter of aquarium water requires 0.5 W of lighting power and 40 Lm of luminous flux. At the same time, there are nuances, taking into account which the initial data can change significantly.

• An aquarium for breeding rare, fancy plants, the so-called Dutch one, requires a luminous flux of 0.8-1 W per liter of volume and a luminosity of 60 or more lumens per liter.
• Aquariums with elongated shapes and significant depth also require brighter lighting, which is selected individually. It is approximately believed that with every 10 cm of depth, the luminous flux decreases by 50%.

You should also remember that if the lighting is incorrectly selected, there can be two main options. If there is a lack of light, the plants will wither and produce oxygen poorly, which, in turn, can have a detrimental effect on the fish. In the case of excess light flux, rapid growth of both plants and simple algae can be observed. Externally, this can manifest itself in cloudy water and overgrowing of the walls of the aquarium. This is especially bad for new tanks, when the main plants are just growing and have no vigor. In this case, the simplest algae grow much faster.

Varieties

Seven types of lamps are used to illuminate an aquarium:

1. luminescent;
2. fluorescent with high luminous efficiency;
3. compact sized fluorescent lamps;
4. halogen;
5. incandescent lamps;
6. metal halide;
7. LED (LED/ICE).

We wrote earlier about these types of aquarium lamps in more detail. LED lamps are recognized as having the highest luminous efficiency. There are different LED lamps:

1. Lamps. Common light sources for tanks of all sizes.

2. Spotlights. Used to illuminate large aquariums. Copies with a power of 25–100 W are sold.
3. Strips and modules. Previously, LED strips were used to illuminate small aquariums. Recently, modules for large containers have appeared on the shelves.

LEDs are placed as the main and additional light sources. Additional type LED lamps are used to illuminate shaded areas in the aquarium. Lamps and LED strips recreate the brightest time of day, complementing the main light in the aquarium. Secondary lamps help to diversify the shades of light, simulating lunar or solar lighting.

Why is LED lighting better?

Due to the huge diversity of living creatures and greenery in a reservoir, it is necessary to “adjust” and sometimes use not one, but several different light sources to preserve all species, with the help of which you can extend the length of the day.

Some aquarists use LED spotlights, while others prefer conventional lamps. Still others use halogens or good fluorescent lamps, while others choose LED strips in the aquarium.

In theory, a normal light source:

1. It must emit rays in many spectral ranges at once, so that all plants (both lower and higher) grow and do not bloom. If you use, for example, ordinary lamps that have only a yellow spectrum, then higher plants may wither, and because of this, the water will quickly bloom.
2. Do not heat the water. A lamp installed in close proximity to any home water area warms it up, at least a little. Many fish cannot tolerate an increase in the temperature of the surrounding fluid by more than 2°C and may die.

Let's consider all the options and find out which lamps are more profitable to use:

1. Halogens are a good and economical source of luminous flux. They provide excellent light and do not emit much heat. But they are more expensive than regular ones.
2. A simple light bulb is a popular type of lighting for a mini-reservoir. But it only produces yellow light, which is unacceptable for higher plants. Such a lamp has a high heat output, and if it is located close to the aquarium, living creatures can die due to incorrect temperature conditions. To eliminate heat, you can use ice by throwing it into water in cellophane bags.
3. Luminescent samples were the most popular among aquarists. They are economical, durable, have a wide spectrum and diffused light. Just a pair of such lamps can fully illuminate a 400 liter pond. The spectrum produced depends on the gas inside them. But they are dangerous due to the presence of mercury vapor in the cylinder.
4. LED lights for a planted aquarium are the best option. Their low heat transfer and high efficiency are known to everyone. They are environmentally friendly and harmless to any inhabitant of the home depths. Their range is limitless.
5. LED strip is a little worse than the previous option. Sometimes you have to search for a long time for a suitable assortment. Many tapes have low light output, and if bright ones are not available, you have to increase their quantity.

How much light do home aquarium inhabitants need?

Aquarists know that an aquatic ecological system is based on the interconnection of plants, microorganisms and other inhabitants. Aquarium fish are the final link in this system, which also need proper lighting for favorable living conditions.

But light is most important for aquatic plants. Proper lighting will accelerate their growth and development. With the help of light that algae absorb, carbon dioxide and water are converted into oxygen and nutrients. This process is called photosynthesis. Thus, oxygen appears in the water, which is necessary for fish.

If there is little light, then plants degrade, the process of their reproduction stops and they gradually die. This negatively affects the condition of fish, shellfish, and crustaceans.

The spectral composition of radiation from different types of light sources is different. For this reason, lamps of different types (LED, fluorescent, halogen) are sometimes used to illuminate indoor ponds.

Important! In winter, artificial lighting is necessary to extend daylight hours for the inhabitants of the aquarium. The backlight should be turned on for a maximum of 12 hours; aquatic inhabitants should rest for 6 to 8 hours. The duration of lamp switching on in summer is about 10 hours.

If the lighting is correct, the algae have a rich green color with yellowish, purple and brownish streaks. The fish are active, and their scales are shiny.

Sometimes the balance of the ecosystem is disturbed, this may be due to the purity of the water and the quality of the lighting. Then the liquid becomes cloudy with a greenish tint, which has a bad effect on the condition of aquatic inhabitants.

If there is a lot of light, then there is excessive growth of filamentous algae. To stop the too active development of plants, you need to slightly reduce the brightness of the backlight.

You can talk about high-quality lighting if, 2 months after you installed the lamps, the aquatic inhabitants feel well.

Often, for decorative purposes, aquarium lamps are supplemented with bulbs with green or blue light. This is certainly beautiful, but such lighting disrupts the process of photosynthesis and has a depressing effect on fish. Therefore, it is better not to experiment.

How to make aquarium lighting with your own hands

Important factors in the manufacture of lighting should be the following:

• lighting must be securely fixed and safe for fish,
• the light should be as close to natural as possible,
• The level of thermal radiation should be low,
• light should provide energy saving.

Lighting does not have to be constant, just like in the natural environment. For tropical and subtropical aquarium fish, lighting should be long - 12 hours. For other fish species, the winter day should be shorter than the summer day. It is possible to organize lighting with an hour break during the day. And finally, another lighting method is the so-called. “stepped” - in which the light intensity increases until it reaches a peak and then gradually decreases.

There is another way to organize lighting: 4-5 hours in the morning, a break of 2-4 hours (reducing the lighting intensity), 4-7 hours after the break.

To automate the process, you can use mechanical or electronic timers that are programmable, and thus eliminate the need to independently turn on/off the light bulbs.

When purchased, many aquariums already have built-in lighting (usually fluorescent), but if not, you can make it yourself.

Lighting an aquarium with LED spotlights requires the presence of:

• LED spotlights, light bulbs, LED strip - to choose from,
• power supply,
• plastic gutter 10 cm wide,
• soft wire 1.5 mm,
• computer coolers - 6 pieces of 12 volts,
• connector sockets for LEDs,
• cutter for processing 48 mm holes.

Manufacturing of lighting. We cut the gutter into 2 parts along the length of the aquarium and drill holes in a checkerboard pattern in its bottom (about 20 holes per meter). LED bulbs need to be fixed in these holes, and then connected to the power supply. The connection can be carried out independently or by a specialist electrician. Coolers are necessary in case of heating the cover for lighting.

Another lighting option will require:

• material for the frame (plexiglass, wood);
• reflective foil,
• mounts for lamps (when using fluorescent ones),
• wires and plugs,
• plinths.

Manufacturing process.
A frame is assembled from the selected material, the size of which is slightly narrower than the aquarium, and the inside is covered with reflective foil. Next, the bases and mounts are installed (for fluorescent lamps). The last step is to attach the wires and plug, and screw in the light bulbs. Third manufacturing method. Materials:

• LED strip with 12 diodes,
• a plastic flask of a suitable size for this tape,
• 220 Volt power supply,
• 12 Volt power connector,
• soldering iron,
• silicone,
• awl,
• a piece of foam rubber,
• two-core wire (for connecting the tape).

Manufacturing. An awl is used to make a hole for the wire in the lid of the aquarium. A wire is soldered to the tape, on the other side of which, using clamping screws, the power connector will be connected.

Pieces of foam rubber are attached to the back of the LED strip to ensure the stability of the wire in the bulb. Next, the tape is placed in the flask and carefully sealed with sealant. The lighting is ready.

Advantages of diode devices

Diode lamps have been used for aquarium lighting since recent times, but have already managed to displace many analogues from their leading positions. This is not surprising, because diodes have a large number of undeniable advantages.

1. Economical. In addition to the fact that the cost of devices is significantly lower than competitive products, LEDs are able to reproduce beams with increased brightness with minimal electricity consumption.
2. High strength. Regardless of the type of diodes, they have an increased degree of strength and therefore are not susceptible to mechanical stress. Due to the absence of a spiral, they do not respond to vibrations.
3. Operational life. The design can serve properly for more than 5 years, which is several times higher than its analogues.
4. Choice. Thanks to the spectral range, you can choose the most optimal option for both fish and plants.

Backlight color may vary

1. Safety. Since the lamps operate on low voltage, with open contacts they are not capable of causing much harm to the user. They can also be classified as fireproof light sources, since they have a protective layer against moisture.
2. Temperature. Even with continuous operation for 7-10 hours, the elements do not emit excess heat. Thus, the desired temperature is always maintained in the container.

VIDEO: DIY waterproof aquarium lighting

Artificial light and features of aquarium lighting

Time frame

It is not always possible to install an aquarium near a window opening, where the energy of sunlight is much higher than inside the room. But even under such conditions, tropical plants require a higher level of illumination due to the relatively short daylight hours in our country. The total duration of illumination of the aquarium throughout the day should last from 10 to 12 hours. There are three main types of aquarium lighting:

1. Continuous. Involves manual or semi-automatic (via timer socket) turning on and off the backlight with a constant lighting level for a period of up to 12 hours.
2. With breaks. It involves turning off the backlight for 30-60 minutes 2 times a day, thus giving the inhabitants of the home pond a little rest.
3. Stepped. The optimal option for illuminating an aquarium, as it creates conditions close to the natural habitat. Reducing and increasing the brightness of the lamps several times during the day simulates partly cloudy conditions and increases the stability of the aquarium as an ecosystem.

Equally important is the creation of a mode for smooth switching on/off of light or the so-called twilight mode, which is necessarily present in living nature. Switching from bright to dim lighting in the evening will help avoid stress in aquatic vegetation. In practice, this is realized by installing several lamps of different power, powered by different adjustable switches. In extreme cases, in 15 minutes. Before turning on the backlight, you can turn on the general lighting in the room. The same goes for turning off the lights in the evening.

Spectral composition

Proper illumination of an aquarium is not just a powerful light flux. This is light with a set of wavelengths necessary for photosynthesis. The spectrum of sunlight covers the entire region visible to the human eye, and is also present in the UV and IR ranges. The consumer of solar energy (in our case, an aquatic plant) decides for himself: what wavelength of light he needs at this stage of growth. The spectrum of fluorescent and LED sources is selective with bursts of intensity only in some areas of the visible spectrum. In this case, the plant is forced to “enjoy” the radiation that the backlight produces.

In order for the light of the lamp to reach the leaves growing at the bottom, it needs to overcome a water obstacle of several tens of centimeters. The fact is that the laws of light propagation in water and air are very different. Namely, photons with different wavelengths pass through the water column differently. For clarity, below is a graph that shows how the light intensity changes depending on the wavelength. Light ranging from violet to green penetrates 1 meter of water with minimal loss. At the same time, the intensity of red spectrum rays decreases by half at a distance of 30 cm from the light source, and after 1 meter no more than 10% remain. However, this fact does not mean at all that the share of red radiation in the aquarium lighting needs to be increased. Indeed, in their natural environment, aquatic plants are also accustomed to receiving blue, green and red rays from the sun in different proportions.

The spectral composition of different sources of artificial light is very different, affecting the growth of certain plants differently. For this reason, a lot of controversy has arisen about which lamps are best to illuminate an aquarium with exotic fish. Some insist on the sufficiency of ordinary fluorescent lamps with a color temperature of up to 8500°K, others insist on the use of specialized phytolamps, and still others recommend the combined use of cold and warm light lamps.

And yet, the optimal option is considered to be combined lighting using LED light sources. Because…

Tips for choosing

Until the recent past, the choice of aquarists was significantly limited. They could only use standard incandescent lamps, which were not very suitable for these purposes, as well as fluorescent lighting, which somewhat reduced electricity costs, allowing them to choose the optimal spectrum for fish and plants. Today, the range of lighting fixtures for aquariums has expanded significantly.

It can be made from various materials

Basic facts to guide you when choosing a backlight:

1. The optimal solution is halogen light sources , which are both economical, have a wide spectrum of illumination, contain a minimum of mercury and are easy to use.
2. incandescent lamps can also be used to illuminate an aquarium. This light has a yellow tint, which allows you to highlight the beauty of bright tropical fish. However, incandescent lamps still have disadvantages. First of all, this is increased energy consumption, provoking the growth of algae, as well as significant heating, which leads to overheating of the entire aquarium.
3. Fluorescent lamps are economical, efficient, and have a wide variety of spectra.
4. LEDs are an economical modern technology that allows you to reduce energy consumption by providing intense directional or diffuse lighting. Thanks to the use of various controllers, LED lamps can be fully automated: they will turn on and off according to a predetermined schedule.

The most popular today are fluorescent and LED lamps. They are at the same time economical, allow you to obtain color with any shade and spectrum, and perfectly illuminate both small aquariums and containers with a volume of several tons. The only drawback of LED lamps and the controllers necessary for their operation is the high cost of the components used. The latter somewhat limits their distribution on the domestic market.

In this video you will learn more about how to make the backlight:

Features of selection

Having decided on the installation of LEDs for the aquarium, before going to buy them, it is important to take into account the composition of the inhabitants. After all, if you keep mainly fish, then there is no special selection

Of course, you can set a goal and make lighting for a more advantageous appearance of the inhabitants of the underwater world. But basically, for an aquarium with fish, ordinary light is enough to make it convenient to view them.

It’s a completely different question if plants are bred in an aquarium. Especially if your plans include a “Dutch” aquarium with a large number of rare and whimsical plants. In these cases, lighting an aquarium with LED lamps requires preliminary calculations that take into account the spectral demands of the plants. In addition to the luminous flux parameter, which is measured in lumens, you will need to remember such as illumination in lux and light temperature in kelvin.

More details about LEDs

LED lighting in an aquarium is a relatively new direction in the field of LED application. However, she has already found supporters among innovators and lovers of experiments.

LED lighting outperforms fluorescent lamps in several ways:

1. LEDs do not emit heat towards the water. This means that they can be brought as close as possible to the water surface, providing protection for live parts from moisture, and not worry about the stability of the temperature regime.
2. The light output of LEDs is much more stable over time. With proper operation, after 3000 hours the reduction in LED luminous flux does not exceed 5%, which is much better than that of opponents.
3. The brightness of the LEDs can be controlled using a dimmer or an adjustable power supply.

An innovative method of aquarium lighting is the installation of bicolor LED phytolamps as an additional source of violet and red waves. Their purple light accelerates the process of photosynthesis, enhancing the effects of basic full-spectrum lamps.

The only reason why many people cannot make LED lighting for their aquarium is still the price. The cost of high-quality LED equipment is much more expensive than the usual glass tubes from Osram and Philips. However, you can always start simple by adding some bright colors to the ordinary white light. Let's talk briefly about this too.

Foamed PVC cover

The second material for making the lid is foamed PVC sheet, not to be confused with hollow PVC lining. Take a thickness of at least 8mm.

It is sold in wide rectangular sheets.

You can make either a one-piece structure or one consisting of two parts.

The front part of the lid is opening, the back part is fixed.

On the front part, to create greater rigidity, it is better to use two sheets glued together rather than one. This is where the loops will be twisted to open this half.

For large sizes, on the second non-removable part, again for the stiffening rib, screw a simple aluminum corner along the entire length. These are usually used on door thresholds.

Along the entire perimeter, at the joints of the horizontal and vertical parts of the lid, glue rectangular or triangular inserts made of the same thick-walled foamed PVC.

These sides act as supports with which the lid will be installed on the glass of the aquarium. Therefore, it is initially made slightly wider than the container itself.

That is, to find out the dimensions of the lid, take the length or width of the aquarium, add to them two wall thicknesses of PVC plastic, plus leave 4-5mm for play.

In this case, the lid will easily be put on and removed over your jar.

The material can be easily cut with a utility knife and glued with superglue. All joints and seams are filled with pouring cosmofen.

Cut technological holes according to your own considerations, according to the above recommendations.

To add beauty, after assembling the frame, all that remains is to cover the lid with decorative film. Don't forget about the reflective material on the inside.

Connecting electrical and lighting is similar to the previously discussed options.