Without power supply, the bathhouse building will not be able to function normally. Switches, lamps, sockets, heat-resistant cable for the bath are integral parts of the system. Wires for the sauna in each room are selected based on its purpose, different temperature conditions and the presence of moisture.
A network is laid in the steam room to create artificial lighting and connect an electric furnace. In the washroom - for light and a water heater, and in the dressing room - for appliances, for example, a hairdryer, TV or kettle. Let us consider in detail which wire to use for wiring in the bathhouse.
Electrical wiring installation
In a steam room, the wire insulation must withstand up to +170°C
. Before you make a steam room with your own hands, you need to remember that due to humidity and high air heating, certain fire safety requirements are imposed on the wiring. In the steam room, the wire insulation must withstand up to +170°C.
Cable brands used:
- flexible stranded copper wire of the PRKA, PVKV, RKGM, PRKS categories;
- multi-wire and single flexible wire PMTC (works up to +200°C);
- imported wire OLFLEX HEAT 205 (can withstand up to +200°C).
In steam rooms and saunas, wiring cables in iron pipes and shells is not allowed; hidden wiring in safety hoses and ducts is recommended. When the wiring is open, asbestos is placed under the cable so that 10 cm of lining material peeks out on both sides.
Plug-type sockets, switches, and distribution boxes should not be installed in wet steam rooms. The lamps are mounted in protective housings from moisture, protection class IP24, they cannot be placed on the ceiling, but only on the wall.
Preparatory work
In order to begin installation work, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. These are cables of a certain cross-section, metal hose, sockets, switches, electrical tape. You should also prepare tools for electrical work. If the bathhouse was built on a stone or concrete foundation, then putty should also be prepared.
It is very important to choose the right cable. To determine the correct cross-section, determine the load for which the electrical wiring in the bathhouse will be designed
The rules recommend using a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2 for a current of 19 Amps; for a current of 70 A, a cross-section of 10 mm2 is suitable.
You can also use the following formula: maximum possible load kW / voltage V
When making calculations, it is important to take into account all devices. As for the choice of metal hose, preference should be given to a more flexible option
The wall thickness must be at least 2 mm.
How to hang a lampshade
Fixed installation lamp
Bath lamp with wooden shade
Classic bath lamp
There are so many lighting lamps that it is unrealistic to consider the connection of each of them. We will only talk about general universal rules.
Step 1: Turn off the network power. If the shield is located far away, be sure to hang a warning sign on it
This is very important, power supply switching on by mistake by third parties has happened more than once
Turn off the power to the sauna
Step 2. Study the lamp's instructions. If it is not there, disassemble the lampshade, find on the body the place where the power cables enter and where the body is fixed. We hope that the switch is connected correctly and the phase is connected through it.
Fastening and cable entry point
Mounting the lamp
Step 3. Attach the lamp to the wall or ceiling, before inserting the wires into the mounting holes on the body. Check the serviceability of the cartridge with a tester. Sometimes the pins are not attached in good faith; the contacts will overheat and burn out over time. Tighten all the clamps; if the terminals are riveted, touch them, they should not wobble.
Step 4. Strip the ends of the wires to a length of approximately 5 mm; if the cable is multi-core, tin the ends or at least twist them tightly. Insert into terminal blocks and tighten.
Step 5. Screw in the light bulb, check the wiring for a short circuit. Everything is normal - put the decorative lamp in place and turn on the power.
Fixed luminaires
Pay attention to the strength of the attachment of the lampshade to the supporting surface. If the lampshade is plastic, be sure to follow the recommended maximum wattage of the incandescent light bulb
For energy-saving lamps, completely closed shades cannot be used - they must be constantly cooled with fresh air.
Ventilated lampshade for a bath - diagram
Wooden grille for lamp
Air supply to the electricity bath
The wiring in the bathhouse is connected from the home distribution panel. The cable is laid underground or pulled through the air, which is much simpler. In this case, the following rules must be observed.
Electricity is laid over roads at least 6 m, and over areas where pedestrians pass - from 3.5 m or more.
Air entry into the building is made at a height of at least 2.7 m. For this, insulated wires of the SIP series with a cross-section of at least 16 mm2 are used. They do not require a support cable. Its role is played by the neutral wire, which can be with or without insulation. The wires are mounted on brackets with anchor clamps. They are difficult to insert into the shield due to their high rigidity. Therefore, outside the building, the wires are connected to a copper cable of the VVGng or NUM type. It is introduced into the house through a metal pipe inclined to the street by 5-10. The input cable cores are connected to the SIP using sealed piercing clamps.
Selecting materials for wiring in the bathhouse
The choice of the type of wiring in the bathhouse depends on the room in which it will be installed:
- For rooms with high temperature and humidity (steam room), special heat-resistant wiring is used. A design feature of such wiring is the insulation of a stranded or solid core that is resistant to the effects of hot air saturated with water vapor.
- For rooms with normal temperature conditions, electrical wiring that is not resistant to high temperatures is used.
On a note. The cross-section of the electrical wiring used is calculated taking into account the maximum power of the load connected to it. Using cheap wiring with a small cross-section to connect high-power electrical appliances is fraught with overheating, melting of the insulation and a high risk of fire in wooden structures.
Properties
RKGM is a wire with unique properties. Basic:
- Increased strength. The rubber braid is made on a silicone basis, which eliminates damage to the product even with strong bending. In addition, the product can withstand heavy loads and shows high resistance to tensile damage.
- Work stability. The effectiveness of using RKGM does not decrease regardless of environmental pressure, mechanical stress, vibration or other influences. The wire retains technical qualities and guarantees the functionality of the electrical receiver. During use, the wire does not break, is not afraid of deformation and retains its original shape.
- Heat resistance. It was noted above that the advantage of RKGM is the ability to withstand powerful thermal influences. In the insulation manufacturing process, special components are used that maintain quality even at high temperatures. Heating the wire does not affect its functionality and does not lead to fire. If the set temperature exceeds 250 degrees Celsius, the RKGM still does not light up.
- Resistance to harmful influences. Practice has shown that the product is not afraid of the appearance of fungus or mold when laid in conditions of high humidity. The braid has a special structure and is impregnated with special compounds that allow the product to be installed in a bathhouse, sauna or outdoors. RKGM can be used to connect equipment in damp rooms without endangering its performance.
The properties of a wire can be described at length, but the specified parameters best characterize its quality.
Stages of installing electric lighting in a bathhouse
It is not difficult to make grounding; to do this, you just need to drive a metal pin into the ground to a depth of at least one meter and connect a grounding wire to it.
Grounding diagram in a bathhouse
What needs to be grounded in baths
The specific depth depends on the physical characteristics of the soil and the overall power of the devices used.
Grounding parameters
The grounding is checked with a special device, a megohmmeter. By the way, it is also used when checking the insulation and reliability of cable connections in distribution boxes. Such a device is quite expensive, but you don’t need it. All the same, permission to connect the bathhouse will be given by an official representative of the energy networks; ask him and he will call the wiring and grounding.
Megaohmmeter
Now you can directly deal with electrical wiring in the bathhouse.
Step 1. Draw a plan of the bathhouse premises and the approximate location of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches in it. If you plan to use electric heaters, boilers, or household appliances, think about their placement. Don't rush to make a final decision, consider several options. Keep in mind that the entrance panel must be located in the locker room, vestibule or rest room. It is strictly forbidden to place switches and sockets in the steam room. On the plan, mark not only sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, but also the locations of the wiring.
Wiring in the bathhouse
Step 2. Indicate the locations of line transitions from one room to another. At the same time, keep in mind safety zones and provide the necessary methods for protecting lines from mechanical damage.
Step 3. Calculate the total power of all electrical energy consumers. We strongly recommend increasing the received power by at least one and a half times and based on this figure make further calculations. No one can predict what devices you will want to install in your bathhouse in a year or two; the wiring must withstand an unexpected increase in power. It is much cheaper to pay a little more for electrical cables up front than to redo all the wiring later. Depending on the power, cables and safety fittings are selected.
Selection of wires, switches, lamps
For the completed wiring diagram in the bathhouse, all its components are selected: wires, sockets, switches and lamps. The cable brand is selected in accordance with the conditions in each of the bathhouse rooms (high temperature and humidity).
Depending on the material of the current-carrying conductor, the wiring in the bathhouse can be copper or aluminum, but due to the much better mechanical and electrical parameters, the choice should be made in favor of copper wires. The main parameter for any cable brand is the wire cross-section. The cross-sectional area is selected based on the load connected to the corresponding section of the wiring.
How to choose wires and sockets based on load?
For example, you are going to connect two 100 W light bulbs, plug in a 1 kW electric kettle and a 4 kW electric heated floor. Thus, to calculate the cross-section, add up the power consumption of all consumers P = 0.1 + 0.1 + 1 + 4 = 5.2 kW. To the resulting power value it is necessary to add a 20 - 30% safety margin, for our example we get 6.24 kW. To select a specific cross-sectional value for wiring based on consumer power or electric current, you need to use our calculator or table data:
Table 1: selection of wire cross-section
Look at the table; for a power of 6.24 kW, copper wiring with a core cross-section of 4 mm2 or aluminum wiring of 6 mm2 is suitable. If you have drawn up a power supply diagram with separation of wiring for different consumers, then it is advisable to perform the procedure for calculating the cross-section for each individual section, but the material of the conductor for the wiring must be the same.
The socket, like the wiring, has a certain current carrying capacity. Therefore, the selection of connection points to the mains voltage should be made in accordance with the devices being connected. For example, for a refrigerator it is enough to install a 10 A socket, but for a boiler, depending on the power, you will need 16 or 24 A.
For the steam room
The requirements of GOST R 50571.12-96 establish the following division of the steam room into zones:
Rice. 2: division of steam rooms into zones
Look at the picture, all zones are built in accordance with the location of the stove, be it electric or solid fuel. In relation to laying wiring cables and installing other equipment, these areas have the following requirements:
- The first is intended exclusively for the stove, if it is an electric heater, then the wiring for connecting it;
- The second is considered the most loyal in terms of wiring requirements; no standards are provided for it;
- For the third zone, there are requirements for equipment that must normally withstand temperatures of 125°C or more, and wiring of 170°C or more;
- Only lamps, sensors and regulators can be installed in the fourth zone, but their wiring is selected as for the previous bath zone.
For internal electrical wiring in the steam room, heat-resistant cables should be used, for example, flexible copper RKGM, PVKV, PRKS or PMTK.
Lamps in the steam room must have a metal body to which grounding is connected, a sealed glass shade with a degree of protection of at least IP24. You should not choose models with a plastic body or parts to connect lamps, as they can melt and deform, causing moisture to penetrate inside.
Rice. 3: steam room lamp
For dressing room, locker room, rest room
These premises are characterized by much less stringent requirements for location and wiring characteristics. But they must also comply with all the requirements of the PUE for saunas.
It is also better to use lighting devices that are sealed with a degree of protection of at least IP24, but you can also use models with a polymer body or made of plexiglass, since the temperature in these rooms is much lower. VVGng-LS brand wires are quite suitable for wiring. Sockets must have a protective locking device that prevents the free penetration of moisture from the environment.
Laying wiring
In baths and saunas, two methods of wiring are used:
- Openings - with this method, wires are laid along the surface of the walls, placing them in cable channels or PVC corrugation;
- Hidden - with this method, the wires are pulled into a corrugation, which is then laid under the walls.
In these installation methods, there must be a non-flammable material between the cable and a wall made of combustible material - a polyvinyl chloride box or corrugated pipe. When wires pass through wooden partitions, they are passed into steel sleeves pre-installed in them.
Important! According to the requirements of GOST R 50571.12-96 and paragraph 7.1.40. PEU-7, in a bathhouse or sauna, laying electrical wiring in metal pipes or corrugation is prohibited
It is also unacceptable to use an electrical cable that has an outer metal sheath.
The hidden wiring method is more preferable, since the box or corrugation does not spoil the interior of the room; protected by the finishing, they are not exposed to moisture and temperature. The disadvantage of hidden wiring is the risk of it being generated when drilling holes in the trim. To avoid this, experts advise that while laying the cable, take detailed photographs, measure the distance between it and the ceiling, wall, drawing up a wiring diagram based on these operations.
Installation of electrical wiring and devices
What is the difference between a cable and a wire?
The process of installing electrical wiring and connecting various devices includes several stages:
- Drawing up a project - a graphic plan for the placement of wiring, sockets, lighting fixtures, distribution board, electric furnace, water heater;
- Calculation and purchase of the required amount of wiring, sockets, lighting fixtures, protective devices (RCDs) or automatic circuit breakers;
- Laying a power input cable into the bath;
- Installation of a distribution panel, installation of an input circuit breaker, RCD and circuit breakers for various groups of electrical appliances (sockets, lamps, water heaters, electric furnace, etc.);
- Grounding the distribution panel;
- Connecting the power cable to the input circuit breaker;
- Laying wiring in an open or hidden way;
- Installation of the control panel for an electric furnace (electric heater);
- Connecting sockets, lighting fixtures;
- Connecting an electric furnace (electric heater) to the control panel using a high-temperature cable.
Bath switchboard diagram
After completion of installation work, the functionality of lighting fixtures, sockets, electric furnaces, and water heaters is checked.
Lighting elements
Now let’s look at the components of each lamp, because inside the same model you can put lamps of different types, and surround the outside with a lampshade, which will make the sauna more comfortable and stylistically uniform.
Lamps
The following types are allowed in the sauna steam room:
- incandescent lamps;
- LED;
- halogens.
ATTENTION! Please note that we are only talking about lamps, so we will not mention LED strips and fiber optics, although they can also be installed in the steam room.
Incandescent lamps
Ordinary lamps, known since time immemorial when the entire country was electrified.
The only limitation that should be taken into account concerns power - it is not recommended to use more than 60 W in the steam room, but there are no restrictions on the number of light bulbs. However, there are two unpleasant aspects associated with them:
- Firstly, they are quite fragile, break easily, and burst easily if cold (relative to their own temperature) water gets on the flask when it is heated.
- Secondly, they are connected to a 220 V network, so if there is a problem, a person can be killed by such a current. Moreover, in a bathhouse, where it is humid and water conducts electricity very well. True, there is an option: installing 36-volt ones through a transformer, many people practice it.
To protect against the first - lampshades, nets and lampshades. From the second - RCD.
LED bulbs
LEDs can be in the form of lamps and in the form of strips. Here we will consider only lamps. More complete material can be found at this link.
The sockets are different, but the E27 socket is typical for bath lighting - this is a medium threaded socket with a diameter of 27 mm, which is suitable for incandescent lamps, and for LED lamps (if they are designed for 220 V), and for halogen lamps.
BY THE WAY! LEDs are still installed in the bathhouse not so much for the sake of reducing energy consumption, but because they are powered from a low-voltage network, most often 12 V (24 and 36 V are also possible).
For LED light bulbs that are powered from a 220 V network, you can also install an RCD. And for 12-volt ones, connect either a step-down transformer (see article on electricians in a bathhouse) or a switching power supply.
IMPORTANT! The power supply should preferably have galvanic isolation, which will not allow 220 V to flow into the circuit in the event of a failure. The transformer and power supply are installed outside the steam room
The transformer and power supply are installed outside the steam room.
And now the most important thing: you can put LED lamps in a sauna, but they will not last long, because for them the temperature is already above 65 degrees on the crystal. Just imagine that the crystal itself gets very hot during operation, so heat removal is needed, which is unattainable in an overheated sauna.
So you either need to place the strips somewhere lower, as a backlight, or abandon the idea of LEDs altogether, and use regular incandescent or halogen light bulbs closer to the ceiling.
Halogen
These bulbs tolerate high temperatures well, but are not without their drawbacks. In particular, this concerns their service life. Interestingly, LEDs do not respond to the number of times they are turned on, while for halogen ones, each turn on reduces their service life.
In principle, you can find both 220 V and 12 V halogen ones on sale, but the latter have a different base from the standard E27, and in general they are not intended for insertion into conventional structures with lampshades.
There is a difference in a bathhouse and a steam room
We have already said above that the wiring in the steam room differs in a number of important points from the electrical wiring in the bathhouse.
ADVICE! It will be easiest for those bathhouse owners who already included the wiring in the construction project. Because this is the only way compliance with standards will not be a matter of chance.
In the steam room
Electrical wiring in the steam room: no wires
In an ideal steam room there are no wires - they go from the outside, and go inside exclusively to connect the lamps.
The question arises: is it necessary to use more expensive heat-resistant wires for electrical wiring in the steam room of a bathhouse? For those who have no way out and have to conduct wiring inside the walls of the steam room - yes, definitely. If you follow the rules - only through the wall to the lamp, then it is a matter of ease of replacing the wire.
The fact is that simple PVC insulation will inevitably collapse over time in the area that is exposed to high temperatures. This is usually at the wire entrance to the lamp. Therefore, it is recommended to make this area heat-resistant.
In a steam room with an electric oven
The electric furnace is used only in the sauna (because we question the ability of electric furnaces without a steam generator to create a Russian bath mode).
Power calculations are usually done in a simplified manner, based on the cubic capacity of the room, based on the ratio of 1-1.5 kilowatts per cubic meter. Therefore, it is enough for you to proceed from one or one and a half volume of the steam room. Let's assume that a pair room of 1.8*1.4*2.1 (DSHV) is given. Its volume is 5.3 cubic meters. Consequently, the furnace power is from 5 to 8 kW. And this is still a small steam room!
It is clear that such a power plant is not installed on a regular outlet (here the current strength is 23-36 A, and a regular outlet can withstand 10-16 A). The wire is led outside and connected to a power outlet (they come in different capacities).
Heat-resistant wires of the required cross-section are included with the stove itself, so you just need to take them out and connect them.
BY THE WAY! A grounding plug requires a ground connection to the outlet, this is not new, is it?
But there are also grounding requirements associated with an electric furnace. Ideally, you make a grounding loop during the construction process, covering the perimeter with a metal tape, which is welded to the mesh on the floor, and then connecting it to the grounding in the panel.
Installation of sockets and switches
Sockets are installed in the rest room, bathroom, veranda and dressing room. It is prohibited to place sockets in the steam room, shower and washing area.
In the steam room and washing department - in the steam room, lamps are installed at 3 points: above the entrance door and in two corners. In the washing compartment, 2 lighting fixtures are mounted along the center line of the ceiling. Lamps used in these rooms must have glass shades, a ceramic or metal base, and a silicone gasket sealing them. Their protection class must be at least IP44. The lighting in the steam room is connected using a flexible cable that has a silicone insulating layer that covers each of its conductive cores.
Steam room lighting
Important! In order to prevent the scattering of fragments, the lamp shades installed in steam rooms are placed in a metal mesh frame
- In the rest room and dressing room, ordinary lamps are installed that have low protection from moisture and high temperatures.
- Ordinary street lamps are installed on the veranda.
In the lamps of the steam room and washing room, simple incandescent lamps with a power of up to 40 W are installed. More powerful 60-watt lamps are used in the rest room, dressing room and on the veranda.
What voltage is best for wet areas?
The light in the steam room should be not only functional, but also safe. You need to pay attention to choosing the appropriate voltage; there are several options:
- For the main power supply of all premises, single-phase voltage of 220 V is most often used. This is the most common solution, which is also suitable for lighting in the steam room, subject to several conditions: protection using differentiated circuit breakers and RCDs, grounding using the TN-CS system. It is also necessary to have a PUP (potential equalization system).
- If powerful electrical equipment with high power consumption is used, then a three-phase input is suitable. This option is used to power boilers, heated floors, pumps, etc. And the lighting requirements in the steam room are the same as for single-phase lighting.
- The single-phase reduced version is used for lighting. If you install a light in a bathhouse operating on a voltage of 12 or 36 volts, the level of safety for humans will be many times higher . This is the most preferred solution, for which you will need a step-down transformer. It should be installed in a panel or in a room with a normal level of humidity; it cannot be mounted in showers and steam rooms. If you implement this option not only in wet rooms, but also in the rest room, corridor and dressing room, you can save on electricity.
When using low voltage, a step-down transformer is added to the system.
In addition to lighting, other equipment can also operate from a low-voltage line. If necessary, you can install sockets.
Options for placing lamps in the bathhouse
If all the advice described above is mandatory, then specific locations for placing lamps are only advisory.
Room Recommendations for the location of lamps
Steam room
One of the smallest sauna rooms, in most cases one lamp is enough. Place it in such places as not to accidentally damage it during water procedures. It is prohibited to install lamps close to a stove or chimney. We strongly recommend protecting the lamp with a decorative wooden fence - this eliminates the possibility of burns to the limbs. It goes without saying that the degree of protection of the housing must correspond to the operating conditions
The switch should be mounted at the entrance to the steam room from the outside; it is convenient to place it right next to the door.
Shower room
The lighting should be brighter, the lamp should be placed at such a distance so that jets of water from the shower do not fall on them.
Waiting room
The placement is arbitrary, the main attention should be paid to the design of the room. As a rule, sockets are installed here to connect various electric heating devices.
Restroom
There are no special security restrictions here.
Where you like or where the designer suggests - install it there. The sizes, types of light bulbs and their power depend only on the wishes of the bathhouse owner.
What voltage to choose for lamps
State standards do not prohibit connecting lamps in all rooms of the bathhouse to a voltage of 220 V, but you can find recommendations to install 36 V or 12 V step-down transformers for them. The following can be said about this. If the electrical wiring has high-quality RCDs (equipment protection devices), the grounding system meets the requirements of the PUE - safety is guaranteed. And if you also make a PUP (potential equalization system), then not even the most strict inspector will be able to find violations.
Step-down transformer 220/36 volts
Not convinced or are you terrified of high voltage? No problem, purchase and install any step-down transformer for lighting. Just keep in mind that it is quite difficult to find lamps rated for 12 V or 36 V on sale, and if they exist, their design characteristics are very far from perfect.
Fashion trends in bath lighting
LED lights
The effect of a starry sky is created in the sauna
To give the bathhouse individual exclusivity, decorative lighting is often used. For steam rooms, fiber optic devices are used. The lighting device itself is located outside the steam room; light is supplied to the room by optical fibers. The pleasure is very expensive, but the beauty is worth it. Such lighting can be installed anywhere, from the ceiling to the floor. LEDs do not take up much space; they can be used to create various shapes and ornaments.
Electrical voltage in the sauna
Also, the owner of the bathhouse must select the voltage to provide the structure with electricity. The reason for this is the fact that heat-resistant cables for baths and saunas can be laid together with a home network with a voltage of 220 V. To make a connection, a number of PUE conditions must be met:
- the electrical wiring line must be reliably protected by placing automatic blockers or automatic machines;
- The power supply to the bathhouse must be carried out with the mandatory installation of grounding type TN-CS;
- The sauna electrical system should not operate without a potential equalization system.
Automatic box for turning off the power supply to individual rooms of the bathhouse
If it is not possible to fulfill the three conditions described above, the supply of electricity to the bathhouse building should be carried out through a voltage-reducing transformer, for example, YaTP-0.25 220/36V. The placement of such a device should be provided outside the building.
Laying a power line over the air
This is a fairly economical option. If the distance from the shield to the building is more than 25 meters, then an intermediate support is installed. Laying can be done on porcelain insulators or using stretching.
It is important that the cable is at the correct height during installation. For example, if installation is carried out above the roadway, then it is allowed to install it no lower than six meters above the ground surface
If the cable is laid over a sidewalk or any other non-traversable road, then the permissible height is not lower than 3.5 meters. The cable is connected to the bathhouse itself at a height of at least 2.75 m.
For ordinary installation over the air, a self-supporting insulated cable or self-supporting insulated cable is used. Its service life is 25 years. These products are designated as follows: SIP-3, SIP-2A, SIP-4. They are equipped with special weatherproof insulating material. The disadvantage of this cable: due to its features, this option is difficult to connect to the circuit breaker.
As for the cable itself, it is introduced into the room through a wooden wall or a metal sleeve. The cross-section of the power cable must be at least 16 square meters. mm - it can withstand current up to 63 A. If the connection is single-phase, then the maximum will be 14 kW of power. When the connection is three-phase, then the cable can withstand 42 kW. This power is more than enough for baths. Another disadvantage this cable has is that it is difficult to bend.
SIP is made of aluminum wire, and it is unacceptable to conduct it through attics.
That is why communications of another type are introduced directly into the room - NYM, VVG or NG. The cross-section of these cables ranges from 10 square meters. mm. For connection, it is necessary to use sealed connectors, and the SIP cable is secured to special anchor tensioners.
Cable connection methods
The VVG cable is suitable for supplying power to the bathhouse building without restrictions.
Before installing the internal electrical wiring, you need to connect the power cable to the building. Eyeliner is carried out in two ways:
- underground;
- air.
The advantages of the air method are obvious: low cost and labor-intensive work, high installation speed. Most often, SIP-4 cable is used for these purposes. It is important to know that laying SIP cables is not allowed in the attic, and therefore for a bathhouse it is better to choose wires of the VVG or NG brands.
When fastening to an external wall, the cable should be placed in a plastic box or corrugated. At the entry point into the room you need to place a box with circuit breakers. Laying the cable below ground level is an expensive and time-consuming method, but at the same time it provides more reliable protection of the cable from damage. When choosing an underground connection, it is recommended to use VB6Shv cable.
VB6Shv cable is an excellent choice for underground installation to a bathhouse
Pros and cons of electric stoves for baths and saunas
The fact that the electric furnace is made of metal is the first advantage of this type. Other advantages arise from the fact that electricity is converted directly into thermal energy. Just compare it with firewood, which is full of problems and debris, not to mention the fact that the wood-burning stove itself cannot be mobile - it is tied to the chimney.
Yes, electric stoves for steam saunas are mobile; they only need a sheet of non-flammable material underneath floor-standing models, or they don’t need anything at all if the model is suspended.
IMPORTANT! No chimneys, no debris, and with proper grounding, fire safety is higher than that of gas furnaces.
The numerous advantages of electric stoves can be completely offset by the fact that electricity is an expensive resource
Therefore, those who prefer inexpensive solutions should pay attention to other options. But there are also compromises
After all, the power of a stove that can be installed in an apartment is quite comparable to the power of an electric kettle and less than the power of some steam irons. But the sauna, which such a stove will heat, will be designed for no more than two people.
The second disadvantage is the slight difficulty with wiring. It’s better to invite an electrician who will install three phases if you took a 380-volt oven, and will determine the suitability of the existing wiring and do the grounding. But there are stoves with 220 volts, and this is the usual voltage in a household network.
If we talk about whether an electric heater is good for a sauna in a Russian bath, then a lot depends on the traditional ideas of its owner. Take a look at our articles about the Russian bath (see links above) - they talk a lot about why a metal stove is physically unable to provide the required conditions, and an electric sauna stove is no exception to this rule.
At the same time, among people who are less scrupulous about tradition, there is a widespread opinion that electric stoves for a sauna and bath at the same time are quite suitable, the main thing is that there is a built-in steam generator and fine-tuning of temperature and humidity, allowing you to switch from Finnish to Russian bath mode.
Video on the topic
This video talks about why most electric heaters are not suitable for a Russian bath, but adds information about the extremely few types of stoves that are quite suitable.
By the way, we still have not touched upon such an important issue as the country of production. But it is precisely by this criterion that sauna equipment is often purchased
Wiring for standard temperature conditions
Typically, several types of cables are used in such premises. Among the most common are the following:
- NYM;
- AVVG;
- PVS;
- VVG.
Such wires can be laid using both hidden and surface methods. In this case, the main condition must be met - ensuring reliable insulation. After all, saunas and baths are usually built from wood, which is easily flammable. Cross-linked polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, and other polymer materials are used as insulating materials.
If we talk about lighting devices, they are connected via cables:
- NYM 3*1.5;
- VVGng-LS 3*1.5;
- PPGng-HF 3*1.5.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=4KDD06XU380
Sockets are mounted using wires with a cross-section of 2.3 square meters. mm.
Features of the electrical network in baths
The primary condition when choosing a designated cable is its thermal resistance. There is a ban on installation in rooms with a high concentration of steam outlets. If we talk about laying wiring in such rooms, due to high humidity, grounding must be created. When choosing and purchasing heat-resistant cables for a bath, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the categories of rooms that represent such a structure:
- Premises in which normal temperature conditions are constantly present, where it is allowed to install ordinary wires intended for residential buildings.
- Rooms with temperatures reaching up to 150 degrees. In such areas, only heat-resistant wires are necessarily used, which are connected to an electric oven.
Steam cable
RKGM cable
In rooms with constantly or regularly high temperatures, only heat-resistant wire for saunas and baths is used. If you do not adhere to this recommendation, the braid of a regular cable will melt as the degrees in the room increase. In this case, a fire cannot be ruled out. For electrical installations in steam rooms, you can use one of several types of cable below.
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RKGM
The product marking stands for “organosilicon rubber + bare copper core.” The main advantages of this wire:
- does not support combustion;
- inert to regular changes in blood pressure;
- resistant to mold formation;
- withstands not only vibrations, but also mechanical stress;
- inert to solar radiation, radiation.
This type of cable can be used at a humidity of 100% and a maximum temperature of up to +180 degrees.
PRKA
The marking of this product is interpreted as follows:
- P – wire with a copper conductor;
- RK - silicone rubber (top braid);
- A - increased hardness.
Advantages of the named wire for a bath:
- inertness to combustion;
- absence of halogens in the braid;
- resistance to radiation, ultraviolet, mold;
- increased flexibility.
PVKV
The interpretation of the marking is as follows:
- P - wire;
- B - output of electrical machines;
- KV - two-layer silicone rubber as a braid.
Such a cable is used when installing a class “H” winding output device.
The main advantages of the wire:
- increased flexibility (up to 20 cycles of position changes);
- resistance to changes in atmospheric pressure;
- inertness to vibrations, mechanical influences;
- does not support melting or combustion.
The maximum permissible operating temperature is +180 degrees.
PAL
PAL wire
The marking is deciphered as follows:
- P - wire;
- A - asbestos braid;
- L - varnish coating.
Features of PAL cable:
- toxic safety when used from -50 to +200 degrees (as the temperature rises, the varnish emits toxic fumes);
- ability to withstand temperatures up to +300 degrees Celsius for about 3,000 hours;
- inertness to the effects of technical toluene, gasoline, silicone varnish.
PNBS
PNBS cable
The marking is interpreted as “fixed wire for baths, saunas.” This cable is used specifically for electricians for heating furnaces and heating equipment operating at constantly high room temperatures. The product is ideal for hot, humid rooms.
The wire for saunas and baths PNBS has the following technical characteristics:
- permissible temperature limit – up to +150 degrees;
- the presence of copper conductors with silicone rubber braiding;
- fluorosiloxane rubber shell;
- Possibility of direct cable connection to heating equipment.
The operation of this wire in saunas and baths is regulated by the PUE.
PMTK
Here the product marking stands for “heat-resistant installation wire with silicone rubber braiding.”
The cable has a stranded copper current-carrying core. Products of this type can be used in rooms with a maximum Celsius of up to +200 with a maximum humidity of 100%. If a single installation is carried out, the cable braid does not support combustion.
PRKS
The marking translates as “wire with rubber silicone insulation for sauna.” The cable insulation is inert to gasoline and oils. The product is characterized by increased flexibility. The wire for the steam room, moisture-resistant and heat-resistant marked PRKS, can be used at a maximum temperature of up to +250 degrees. Due to its multi-core nature, one cable can transmit power up to 30 kW.
Wiring Requirements
- A separate line from the electrical panel to the bathhouse must be equipped with a circuit breaker. Cables go from it to lighting devices such as VVGng and NUM. They can heat up to 70 C and do not support the combustion process.
- The wiring in the steam room is selected with a heat resistance of 170-180 C (Types PMTK, PVKV, RKGM, APPV, etc.). It should not be installed close to the stove. A heat- and moisture-resistant cable with silicone insulation is placed in a box located in a place where there is no high humidity and temperature, and then a regular wire is connected to it, which goes to the shield.
- Hidden wiring is installed, but open wiring is also allowed. In brick walls it is laid under a layer of plaster. It is pulled over wooden surfaces in corrugated pipes attached with metal brackets. Protection with metal pipes is not allowed due to corrosion.
- Wires should not touch wooden surfaces. To achieve this, all electrical equipment is placed on heat-resistant asbestos or ceramic gaskets. Insulators are located horizontally in increments of 35-40 cm, and vertically - 2 for each log.
- Wires for single-phase input are taken three-core to ensure grounding of devices.
Characteristics of RKGM
When manufacturing RKGM wire, manufacturers adhere to the following requirements:
- TU 16.K 80-09-90;
- GOST-22483-77.
The name of the cable (RKGM) is an abbreviation where each letter has an individual meaning and helps to navigate the technical features of the product.
Explanation:
- “P” is the material of the outer insulating layer (rubber).
- “K” - organosilicon material is used in the manufacture of insulation.
- “G” - cable flexibility, lack of armor on the surface.
- "M" - copper wire. In the manufacture of the outer braid, a fiberglass structure is used (prescribed with enamel and varnish).
A number indicating the cross-section of the copper core is often added to the abbreviation RKGM. The information is used to make a decision about the possibility of using a cable for supplying electricity.
Technical characteristics of heat-resistant wire RKGM:
- temperature range for operation from 60 degrees below zero to +180 degrees;
- resource of eight years or more;
- non-flammability of the material, no smoke when heated;
- operating voltage up to 0.6 kW;
- permissible frequency up to 400 Hz;
- temperature for styling - from -15 to +60 degrees Celsius;
- resistance to high atmospheric pressure and high humidity;
- core cross-section from 0.75 to 1200 sq. millimeters;
- flexibility class of four or more (requirement GOST 22483-77);
- at 100 percent air humidity, the temperature should not exceed 35 degrees Celsius;
- the minimum bending radius during installation is no more than two meters;
- the central core is made of copper threads that are intertwined with each other;
- Can be used outdoors and indoors.
When choosing a wire, attention is paid to the laying features and load requirements. Before purchasing and installation, it is recommended to carefully select a model and consult with a specialist.
Types of electrical wiring in the bathhouse
Wiring in a bathhouse can be open or closed; installation of closed wiring is carried out in Berman boxes; for open ones, ordinary external mounting boxes are used.
Closed mounting box (Berman)
These boxes are available in various sizes, with lids, and with additional fixation points in the walls. In Berman boxes, not only lighting wiring is done, but also switches and sockets are installed with hidden wiring.
Instructions for installing a socket box in a bathhouse
Hidden wiring is installed under the upholstery of walls and ceilings; the cables must be protected with metal casings. These can be pipes or metal corrugated flexible hoses. It is not recommended to use plastic - there is a high risk of damage by rodents. Cable routing for bathhouse lighting for hidden wiring should begin before finishing the walls and ceilings. Simultaneously with the casing, seats for lamps, sockets, switches and mounting boxes are cut out.
Corrugated wiring
Open wiring is much easier to do; bathhouse lighting is connected to cables laid along the walls. Cables must be protected with plastic tubes; you can additionally cover the wiring with decorative covers.
Installation recommendations
Not only well-chosen lighting fixtures are important when arranging a bathhouse, but also their correct installation. This issue is especially relevant for steam rooms where operating conditions are difficult. Among the main requirements for organizing lamps are:
- It is prohibited to place lamps near the stove, regardless of their degree of heat resistance;
- It is more expedient to install them on the wall opposite to it;
- you need to calculate the distance from the floor to the chandelier so as not to hit it with your head.
It is best to place lighting fixtures in the corner of the room or where the walls and ceiling intersect.
