5 ways to make a boiler with your own hands at home

Heating water no longer requires any tricks, thanks to the abundance of heating equipment in the form of electric kettles, boilers, coffee machines and other devices. But there are situations when they are not at hand, and you need to boil or heat water right now. In this case, you can assemble a boiler with your own hands from available materials suitable for this.

Safety precautions.

For some, the methods outlined in the article will become nostalgic for their student years or military service. But it should be clearly understood that such homemade devices pose a potential threat both from the point of view of electric shock and from the point of view of fire and explosion hazards. Therefore, their actual use should be minimized whenever possible, and during constant operation, replaced with factory-made devices. Next, we will consider the simplest options that even a novice electrician can assemble without any skills or knowledge.

Terms of use

First of all, you need to know that metal utensils conduct current, and immersing a homemade boiler in a stainless steel or aluminum mug can result in an electric shock.
Therefore, such a heater can only be used in ceramic, glass or plastic dishes.

When using a device made from razor blades, you must adhere to the following rules:

First, the device is immersed in water, and only then is it plugged into a power outlet.
While heating the liquid, you should never touch the device or the container in which it is located with your hands.
Heating water with such a boiler is possible only if it contains metal salts that have conductive properties. Thus, distilled water, completely purified from all impurities, will not be able to provide the boiler with a conductive environment, so it will not heat up.

After your first DIY test, test the water. If the electrolytic boiling method negatively affects its taste, then such a device can only be used to heat water for technical needs.

It is advisable to make such a boiler only in cases where it is impossible to heat water by other means. Such a device is unreliable, short-lived and can be dangerous, so if possible, it is better to buy a boiler in a store. It is inexpensive, but much safer than homemade.

Dear friends, subscribers and casual viewers of the MiFodiCH Life channel. On behalf of the entire team of our project, we would like to congratulate you on the New Year 2022 and Merry Christmas. We want to wish you good health, fulfillment of all your plans, great luck and happiness in the new year 2022.

Winter is the best time for experiments in the style of “Survival”

Today, together with you, we will try to warm ourselves up with hot tea and delicious food, but how can we do this if the only means we have at hand are: two razor blades, a wire with a plug and matches. Now I'll show you everything

make yourself comfortable and enjoy your journey, friends. Let's rush off.

A boiler made from razor blades. How to assemble at home.

Let's list everything we need for our homemade product:

Brain
Hands
Possession of electrical safety skills️
2 Blades for a razor (blades from a stationery knife will also work)
cable with plug
matches
a thread

Everything is ready, let's start assembling.

Be careful with blades, friends, you can cut yourself very easily. A very sharp and very dangerous thing, take your time when making this boiler, take care of yourself.

We take out and unpack two blades
We take a cable with a plug and expose the wires at its free end
We connect the wires to our blades, as shown in the figure.

For greater importance and compact size, I wrap the blades with each other with thread, through wooden spacers - matches. The blades and bare parts of the wires must not touch, otherwise a short circuit is guaranteed

I moved the bare ends in different directions in order to isolate the surfaces as much as possible from short circuits, in addition, I wrapped a thread around the exposed wires on twists with blade plates that will serve as a heating element

The matches serve as an insulator that prevents the plates from touching each other. If you are not confident in yourself and your abilities, then a video will be released soon where I will show the entire assembly process from start to finish.

subscribe, as I will start editing the video immediately after writing this article.

INSULATION OF BLADES WITH MATCHES:

the task is very simple and at the same time very difficult, you need to do it wisely without being distracted by anything, but think only about how best to tie matches to a sharp blade with a thread so that they form a strong and wide enough frame for complete confidence in isolating the blades from each other friend. We place three blades on the finished frame (we bring the contact wire of the upper plate in the opposite direction from the contact wire of the lower plate, for maximum insulation) and wind it with thread, while controlling the bends of the blade plate, so that, Boeing forbid, it doesn’t jump out. Fuck these harsh sounds)

Take into account the fact that as the temperature rises, the plate can become deformed and shorten quite a bit, but we don’t want that. The better the frame, the better the insulation, and therefore your wiring, friends)

We can make tea, but how about we use this boiler to cook French fries?

Let's try, after all, we are inventing a universal weapon for survival

Take a glass jar
We cut potatoes into it
lower our boiler
pour sunflower oil
plug in the boiler

Classic homemade blades

We immediately draw your attention to the fact that an electric boiler made from blades is very dangerous. They must be used with extreme caution. It is strictly forbidden to heat water in a metal container or salty liquids or solutions with such a device. Otherwise, electric shock or electric shock may occur. the wires are exposed in the water. One more point - it is recommended to use this homemade product only for heating water for bathing; for brewing tea, it is better to make a boiler according to the previous instructions, since when the device is operating, a small amount of metal salts from which the blade is made gets into the water.

So, let’s look at the process of assembling the device step by step with photo examples. First of all, prepare a two-core cable with a plug. If you don’t have a ready-made one at hand, use a two-wire one by screwing a collapsible electrical plug on one side. It is advisable to take a wire with a cross-section of at least 0.75 mm2. to avoid heating it up.

After this, we strip the cores and screw them to the blades, trying to do this as tightly and securely as possible, as shown in the photo below:

We tie the entire structure with threads, make sure the connection is correct, after which we can check. Perform the first start with extreme caution.

As a rule, water in a three-liter glass jar heats up in a few minutes.

You can clearly see the manufacturing technology in the video below:

By the way, using a similar scheme, you can make a boiler with your own hands from bolts, stationery knife blades, spoons, nails, or even metal plates. The operating principle and wiring diagram will be similar. The main thing is to ensure that there is no contact between the two blades (or whatever you have), otherwise a short circuit will occur.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to make a boiler with your own hands at home. Still, we strongly recommend using only factory-made products, or even better, an electric kettle, which will be much safer. We have provided these step-by-step instructions for informational purposes, and these methods can be used in practice only in extreme situations when there is no alternative.

There are situations when an electric kettle breaks down, and a person is at the dacha or there is simply no opportunity to buy a device that will heat water. Every person can face such a situation, but it won’t be difficult to find a way out, because you can make a heating device with your own hands. In this article we will tell you how to make a boiler at home from scrap materials.

Do-it-yourself boiler repair – Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

Rating: 5 / 5

waferboard, flickr.com CC BY

Who doesn't love hot tea or coffee, especially when you want to warm up or spend the evening with friends? The easiest way to heat water for tea is a boiler. It comes to the rescue when there is no gas stove or electric kettle nearby. But sometimes the boiler itself needs help.

As you already understand, a boiler is a good thing, and not expensive either, but their quality leaves much to be desired. And most often this concerns the cord and its connection to the heater. Therefore, sometimes an entire heater is thrown into the trash because of just a faulty cord. This is insulting and not economical.

But there is a way to return the boiler to its former life. Believe me, it is quite possible, you just need to have a few tools and straight hands.

So, for work you will need:

small screwdriver
knife
circuit tester or tester
wire cutters

The materials you will need are a terminal block; it can be purchased at any electrical goods store or picked up, for example, from an old lamp. The cost of such a block is 30-50 rubles.

The cord can be immediately bitten off at the base of the boiler.

Next, use a knife to carefully cut off the plastic casing.

If it is very difficult, you can use side cutters, biting off the plastic in small pieces. When doing this, be careful not to damage the heater leads.

At some point, the entire plastic housing should come off freely. Only the “naked” heater will remain.

Now carefully clean the heater terminals with a knife or file.

You can also use the tester in resistance measurement mode. Depending on the power of the boiler, the resistance of a working heating element can be in the range of 50-100 Ohms.

So, in our case there is a chain. It would also not hurt to check the breakdown on the housing. We connect the indicator at one end to the leads of the heater, and at the other to its outer metal casing. If there is no chain, everything is in order, we continue to work further. Otherwise, nothing will help the boiler. When checking with a tester, the resistance to the housing must be at least 100 kOhm.

Since the leads are practically not solderable, we will use a connection using a terminal block.

A fairly reliable and safe method, since the current-carrying parts are closed.

Unscrew the screws to the desired level and insert the ends of the heater into the terminal.

Now use a thin screwdriver to clamp them.

If you do this, there will be better contact between the wire and the terminal. Even better, if possible, solder the ends

It is very important that the entire exposed part of the wires enters the terminal and nothing sticks out anywhere. This is a necessary safety measure against electric shock.

We clamp the ends of the wires with the terminal screws.

Make sure that the screw does not completely cut the copper core when clamping. Otherwise, the cord will soon fall out or burn out in this place

That's all. For complete safety, you should only place and remove the boiler from the cup after first unplugging the plug from the socket.

From the editor.

When using a boiler converted in this way, exercise extreme caution! Do not touch the boiler when it is plugged in, do not touch the container in which the boiler is located, and do not put your fingers or conductive objects into the water. You can significantly increase the safety of using the boiler and restore its appearance if you fill the terminal block with epoxy resin, selecting or making a suitable shape

All about boilers

We continue our excursion about Soviet equipment, today I’ll tell you about boilers.

Batch boilers

Batch boilers can operate on any type of heating, but were produced by industry only to operate on solid fuel.

In periodic liquid boilers, water is heated to a boil, after which the fire is stopped and the boiling water is removed. A batch boiler consists of an ash pan, a double-walled firebox, the interwall space of which serves as a water heater, and a boiling water collector; the latter is connected via circulation tubes to the heater.

During the heating process, water continuously moves through circulation tubes between the water collector and the water heater. This happens due to the difference in density of water having different temperatures. As soon as the water is heated to a boil throughout the entire volume, the boiling water can be disassembled by stopping the heating of the boiler. A water tap is installed at the bottom of the water collector.

Schematic diagrams of boilers

Continuous boilers

Continuous boilers for any type of heating operate on the same principle and differ in performance, size and design of heat-generating devices; the latter depends on the type of energy carrier.

The boiler has the following main parts: a feed box, a water heater with an overflow pipe and a boiling water collector. The boilers are equipped with a lid, which is placed on a bolt fixed in the body and screwed with a special nut. In the boiling water collector, a reflector is installed above the overflow pipe, which directs droplets of boiling water ejected from the overflow pipe into the collection. At the bottom of the boiling water collector there is a water tap, at the top there is a pipe (hole) for connecting the boiling water collector to the nutrient box. A signal tube is installed in the supply box, the upper end of which is brought above the water level, and the lower end is connected by a break to the sewer. A shut-off valve is installed on the supply water pipe to disconnect the boiler from the water supply network during its repair, as well as at night.

The operation of continuous boilers is based on the fact that the water level in communicating vessels, one of which is the feed box, the other is the water heater with an overflow pipe, is always the same.

Water from the city water supply or water tank flows through a pipe through a float valve into a feed box connected to the supply water pipe. The float ensures that the valve automatically opens when the water level in the feed box drops. From the feed box, water flows through the feed pipe into the lower part of the water heater. Here it is heated, rises, is brought to a boil and is transferred through an overflow pipe into a collection of boiling water, from which it is disassembled through a water tap.

After transferring boiling water into the collection tank, the water level in the overflow pipe decreases, and at the same time the water level in the feed box decreases. As a result, the float lowers and the feed valve automatically opens the hole for water to pass from the water supply into the feed box. Water will flow until the level in the supply box and in the overflow pipe reaches the specified level, then the float will rise and the valve will close the hole for the passage of water from the water pipe.

When installing a boiler, the water level in the overflow pipe is set to 0.06 - 0.08 meters below the edge of the overflow pipe, which ensures that only boiled water is transferred into the boiling water collection tank. If the valve float is adjusted so that the water in the overflow pipe is at the level of the edge of the pipe, then due to the expansion of water when heated, unboiled water will flow into the boiling water container. When installing the feed valve float below the edge of the overflow pipe (for boilers with a capacity of 25-50 kg/h below the edge by 0.06 meters, and for boilers with a capacity of 100-200 kg/h by 0.08 meters), only boiled water will be transferred to the boiling water collector water.

When water boils, part of it turns into steam, which is much lighter than water. Possessing a large lifting force, the steam takes droplets of boiling water with it and throws them over the edge of the overflow pipe. Thus, the boiling water ends up in the boiling water collection. The steam generated when water boils, as well as excess boiling water (if it is not disassembled) through the connecting pipe or hole in the upper part of the boiling water collector (in boilers in which the feed box is located in the body) enters the feed box, where condensation of the steam occurs.

The water level is controlled by changing the position of the feed valve float. To do this, the lever on which the float is attached is turned up or down depending on the water level. To turn the lever, you need to loosen the lock nut on the nipple and, placing the key on the main nut, turn the nipple, then secure it in the selected position by tightening the lock nut.

Technical characteristics of boilers

Boilers-water heaters are somewhat different from the boilers described above. These devices can be used to prepare both boiling water and hot water. To extract hot water, a water tap is provided in the upper part of the water heater. Since the most intense precipitation of salts and scale deposits begins at water temperatures above 70 degrees, disassembling hot water with a temperature below 70 degrees (for hot water supply purposes) reduces the process of scale formation and increases the service life of the device. The use of boiling water obtained in boilers for hot water supply causes a significant waste of heat due to its consumption in the process of partial steam formation. Such losses are justified when using boiling water for its intended purpose, i.e. for preparing hot drinks, because due to these losses, only boiled water is transferred to the boiling water collection tank.

Modern apparatus for preparing hot drinks from

In all boilers operating on solid fuel or flammable gas, the water heater is made in the form of a double-walled cylindrical vessel, between the walls of which there is heated water. The inside of the water heater serves as the combustion chamber of the boiler. The bottom of the combustion chamber of a boiler operating on solid fuel is a grate, under which there is an ash pan - a cylindrical box. An ash pan and an air combustion chamber for the grate and ash removal, a combustion chamber door for loading fuel.

A gas injection burner is installed in the combustion chamber of a gas boiler. The design of the burner nozzle should ensure uniform distribution of the flame and obtain torches of small height. Primary air is supplied through the air regulator.

In electric and steam boilers, the water heater is made in the form of a box in which heating elements or a tubular steam heater are installed.

Boilers are made of galvanized or stainless steel, sometimes their outer surface is chrome-plated.

Electric boilers KNE-25, KNE-50 and KNE-100

User manual for boilers KNE-25, KNE-50, KNE-100 (year of manufacture 2004)

Boiler KNE-50

Electric boilers KNE-25, KNE-50 and KNE-100 have a similar design and differ only in size, power of heating elements and performance.

The KNE-50 boiler consists of a welded metal body, inside of which there is a feed box, a water heater and a boiling water collector. The air gap between the walls of the water heater and the body serves as thermal insulation. The water heater and the boiling water collector are made in the form of a single cylindrical vessel and are separated from the other by a partition into which an overflow pipe is welded. The bottom of the water heater is a removable flange on which heating elements are fixed. To drain water from the water heater and the feed box, there is a pipe in the flange with a plug. The box collector is equipped with a reflector.

The boiler is fully automated: it automatically disconnects the heating elements from the electrical network when the water level in the feed box drops below the minimum allowable (protection against “dry running”) and the boiling water reservoir is filled to the maximum level, as well as the automatic switching on of the heating elements when the boiling water level in the reservoir drops to the minimum level. With full automation, the boiler signal tube serves to drain water in the event of failure of the automation or malfunction of the float valve.

All ballasts are located in the APU automatic control panel unit mounted on the boiler body.

Electrical diagram of boilers

Automatic operation of the boiler is ensured by an electrolytic level relay RU and a magnetic starter P. The operation of the electrolytic level relay RU is controlled by three electrodes, one of which - the “dry running” electrode E1 - is installed at the bottom of the feed box, the other two - E2 and E3 - in the boiling water collector: the upper level electrode E2 is at a height corresponding to the maximum level of boiling water in the collector, the lower level electrode E3 is at a height corresponding to the minimum level of boiling water in the collector. One end of each electrode is located in a controlled volume, the other is connected to the secondary winding of the transformer Tr. All electrodes are metal rods installed in glass electrical insulators. When installing them, sealing must be ensured both between the electrical insulator and the body of the feed box or the body of the boiler collector, and between the electrode and the electrical insulator.

When the switch Vk is turned on, the current through the transformer Tr enters the power circuit of the signal lamp L1, which lights up, and into the power circuit of the electric relay RU, the closing contacts of which close the circuit of the coil of the magnetic starter P.

If the water level in the feed box is at or above the level of electrode E1, the circuit between this electrode and the boiler body is closed. This is explained by the fact that the water located between them, without being distilled, contains one or another amount of dissolved salts and therefore is an electrolyte, i.e. conductor of electric current. Possessing low electrical resistance. In this case, the electrical relay RU will be energized and its closing contacts will close the power circuit of the coil of the magnetic starter P, which will turn on the heating elements and the signal lamp L2 through its closing contacts. Opening contact P of the magnetic starter will simultaneously open the power supply circuit for electrode E3. This is necessary so that when the boiling water collector is closed to the minimum level, the magnetic starter coil does not de-energize and the heating elements are disconnected from the network. An electrolytic relay RU can only operate when direct current passes through the windings of its magnet, so this relay is powered through dioid rectifiers.

A diode is an electron tube with two electrodes (anode, cathode). Electrons emitted by the cathode reach the anode only when it is positively charged. When the polarity of the anode changes, the emitted electrons cannot reach it. Thus, the diode has one-way conductivity, passing current in one direction. In order to ensure that the supply of the electrolytic relay of the switchgear does not stop when the polarity changes, the circuit under consideration uses two pairs of diodes B1 - B3 and B2 - B4.

If there is no disassembly of boiling water during operation of the boiler, the water level in the boiler reservoir will reach the maximum value corresponding to the position of electrode E2. In this case, the current will pass through the circuit: secondary winding of the transformer, electrode E2, water, housing, resistor R. At the same time, the current will continue to flow through a parallel circuit: secondary winding of the transformer, electrode E1, water, housing, electromagnet winding, relay RU.

The current in resistor R increases, since two parallel-connected circuits will be connected to it. The voltage in the circuits will drop and be insufficient to power the magnet coil of the RU relay; as a result, the magnetic field will decrease, the relay armature will drop, and the closing contacts of the RU relay will open and supply the coil of the magnetic starter P. The latter, through its closing contacts, will turn off the power to the heating elements and the signal lamp L2, and through the disconnect circuits it will connect the power supply to electrode E3. If the water level in the boiling water collector drops below electrode E2, no change will occur in the circuit, because the voltage through the resistor will continue to be supplied to two parallel circuits: through the RU relay and electrode E3. When the water level in the boiling water collector drops below electrode E3, the circuit parallel to the RU relay opens, the current in the resistor decreases, and the voltage supplied to the magnet coil of the RU relay increases, as a result of which its armature rises, the power supply to the magnetic starter coil is resumed and the heating elements the boiler will turn on again.

Modern boiler KNE-25

Electric boilers EKG-25, EKG-50 and EKG-100

User manual for boilers EKG-25, EKG-50, EKG-100

The boiler is a cylindrical vessel consisting of a casing 1 and a boiling vessel 2, a boiling water collector 3, a reflector glass 4, a feeding vessel 5, a float device 9, a dry running sensor 21, a lid 7, an automatic starting device (APU) 13, an electrode upper level 22, lower level electrode 23.

Electrodes for ECG boilers

Water from the water supply enters through supply pipe 17, valve 14 into feed box 5. The feed and boiling vessels are connected to each other by feed tube 10, tubular electric heaters (heaters) 12, connected to the electrical network through a control unit, heat the water to a boil. Boiling water is thrown from the boiling vessel 2 into the boiling water collection through the annular channel between the reflector glass 4 of the boiling vessel. Boiling water is drained through tap 16.

ECG boiler diagram

Welded metal casing 1 serves to create a heat-insulating air layer. A panel 15 is installed on the casing. Inside the casing, under the boiling vessel, there is an APU 13. The feed vessel 5 is designed to maintain a constant water level in the boiling vessel. Inside the feeding vessel there is a dry-running electrode and a float device. Overflow tubes 8, 11 are designed to drain water into the sewer in case of overflow of the feed vessel. Heating elements 12 are fixed at the bottom of the boiling vessel. The float device consists of a float 9, a lever 20, a valve 14. The purpose of the float device is to maintain a certain water level in the feed vessel. The flow of water from the water supply should stop when the water level above the feed tube reaches 59-74 mm higher, which corresponds to the water level in the boiling vessel reaching 50-65 mm below the edge. The reflector glass 4 is fixed to the boiling vessel 2 by a locking device. The boiler is closed on top with a lid 7 and a handle 6.

The electrical equipment of the boiler consists of tubular heaters (heating elements), a built-in automatic starting device (APU), electrodes 21-23, and a signaling device. The APU consists of a boiler control unit VK1-03, a switch PV2-16 for connecting the automatic starting device to the network. Electrodes 22, 23 are used as sensors for the upper and lower boiling water levels. The signaling device consists of LEDs mounted on the casing of the boiler. The white signal lamp indicates that voltage is supplied to the APU, the green one indicates the presence of voltage on the heating elements. When the switch is turned on, voltage is supplied to the boiler control unit and the white signal lamp lights up. If there is no cold water in the feed vessel, the dry running electrode 21 is exposed and the voltage from the heating elements is removed, heating stops. If there is water in the feed box, electrical contact occurs between the “dry running” electrode S2 (21) and the boiler body and the starting relays of the unit are turned on. The relays of the unit turn on heating elements EK1-EKZ and open the circuit of electrode S3 (23) “lower boiling water level”. When the boiling water reaches the upper specified level in the boiling water collector, an electrical contact is formed between electrode S4 (22) and the boiler body and the block relays and heating elements are turned off. Normally closed relay contacts, when closed, turn on the S3 electrode circuit. When disassembling boiling water, electrode S4 is exposed, but since the circuit of electrode S3 is closed, the relays remain disconnected. When the water level in the boiling water collector drops to the lower specified level, electrode S3 is exposed and the circuit comes into working position (the block relays turn on and the heating elements start heating the water). If there is no selection of boiled water, to restart the boiler, it is necessary to drain the boiled water to the lower level.

Electrical circuit diagram of an ECG boiler

Assortment of boilers

In addition to boilers KNE-25, KNE-50, KNE-100, KNE-50/100 produced by “Kaskad” or “Debis” in Chelyabinsk, you can also find other brands of boilers on the market, EKN-50, EKN-100 produced by Gomeltekhmash LLC » Gomel, EKG-10, EKG-25, EKG-50, EKG-100 produced by JSC Gomeltorgmash, Gomel, KEND-50, KEND-100 produced by JSC Concern Termal, Nizhny Novgorod.

Electric boilers of domestic production

These models of continuous electric boilers are made of stainless steel. To connect to the sewerage system and water supply system, they require a permanent connection, a supply voltage of 380 V.

In addition to domestic boilers, imported models of boilers also appeared on the market. Thus, (South Africa) produces the following types of boilers URS-0012, URS-0030, URS-1012, UBR-0012, UBR-0016 and others.

Boiler Anvil URS-0012

The body of these boilers is made of stainless steel, the handles are made of thermal insulation material, the design of the tap prevents drip formation. In addition, the design of such boilers has a temperature regulator, protection against dry running (in models URS-1012 and URB-0012), and a water level indicator (model URS-1012).

Overall dimensions of the boiler Anvil URS-0012

A wide range of modern boilers are produced by companies from China. Below is a boiler from PYHL, model KSY, 10 liters. In addition to this model, there are models KSY-20, KSY-30, KSY-40.

Modern boiler from model KSY

Heating elements for boilers

TEN-76-3-10/3.0J220	TEN-100A13/3.5J220-03A	TEN-100A13/4.0J220-87-01	TEN-100A13/4.0P220-87
TEN-40A13/2.0J220-50G-01	TEN-40A13/2.0P220-50G	TEN-42A13/2.0J220-50M1-01	TEN-42A13/2.0P220-50M1
TEN-42A13/1.0J220-44-01	TEN-60A13/2.0J220-50-01	TEN-54A13/2.0J220	TEN-55A13/3.0J220
TEN-60A13/3.0J220-100G-01	TEN-60A13/3.0P220-100G	TEN-36A13/1.0J220-25G-01	TEN-36A13/1.0P220-25G
TEN-32A13/1.0J220-25M1-01	TEN-32A13/1.0P220-25M1	TEN-88B8.5/3.0J220

Spare parts for water heating equipment

Assembling a homemade boiler from blades

Attach the stripped threads to both blades. Using welding is useless, so let's do a strong twist. It is desirable that the exposed part of the wire be as short as possible. Remember electrolysis.

Next, you need to secure the canvases at a short distance from each other. From 2-3 mm to 1-2 cm. The boiling speed depends on this and, as an inverse relationship, on energy consumption. The farther the blades are from each other, the cheaper the device. As a result, the longer the water takes to boil.

There are two ways to assemble a boiler with your own hands. Install a dielectric pad made of matches and tie wires around the frame.

This is the most common design - a powerful boiler that quickly heats water. Power requires a good plug and reliable wiring. This connection is reliable and the device is designed for repeated use.

The second option is easier to assemble and does not require threads. However, this is more of a one-time scheme: “repair” is unreliable. But you can assemble such a boiler in up to 5 minutes.

Advantages: no risk of short circuit, less energy consumption. In this case, the water takes longer to heat up.

Blade options may sometimes fail to work because the amperage and power are too low. You will have to wait up to an hour for it to boil.

Such “heaters” are called students or prisons: according to the main places of use. Having certain skills, you can cook dumplings using such a cauldron (naturally, a metal frying pan in a glass jar will cause a short circuit). And boiling water for tea is child's play.

Alternative options

Another donor for contacts is heels for army boots and combat boots.

They are assembled in the same way as from blades: threads, matches. The performance and power are similar. Since the metal is of relatively high quality, water boiled with their help can be drunk.

Fastening elements can serve as a “garage” alternative. Two bolts are screwed into a piece of plastic, the issue of connecting wires is solved reliably and elegantly: simply tighten the nuts. “Electrodes” are located at a distance of 5 cm.

The efficiency of this design is very high: a liter jar boils in less than a minute.

The only problem is hygiene. Finding stainless steel bolts is quite difficult, and galvanized models quickly lose their coating, again due to electrolysis. Therefore, this option is more suitable for technical heating of water than for food purposes.

Boiler made from Spoons. ANYONE can do this! WITH YOUR OWN HANDS. From a can, wire and spoons

To make a boiler, you need to find a heating element. The simplest solution would be to use an old heating element from an electric kettle or other appliance.

The manufacturing process consists of several stages:

removing a heating element from an unnecessary electrical appliance

It is important to ensure that the heating element is working; this can be done using a household tester; In addition to the tena, we will need an electrical cord with a plug, as well as terminal blocks. Electrical wires from the cord are connected to the contacts of the heating element; the final stage will be making reliable insulation and checking the finished device using a multimeter.

If the test confirms that the heater is working, you can begin operating it.

Water heater made from scrap materials

There is another way to quickly make a boiler, but it is quite dangerous

This device should not be left unattended and special care must be taken when using it.

We will need the following materials:

two metal objects. These can be nails, spoons, bolts or knives, but most often blades are used to make a boiler;
matches or other wooden objects;
sewing threads;
cord with plug.

First of all, you need to connect the metal plates (blades) to the stripped contacts of the power cord. For greater reliability, you can use a soldering iron.

The boiler is assembled in this way: wrapped matches are placed on one blade, then they are covered with the second blade. Then this structure is also wrapped with threads for reliability.

You can learn how to make boilers thanks to this video:

In life, sometimes unforeseen circumstances arise. One of these is the lack of hot water, for example, during repair work, when there is no gas, without which you cannot boil water.

It turns out that making such a heating device is not at all difficult, the main thing is to find the necessary materials in your apartment.

A homemade boiler or a primitive 12-volt heating device can be made from available materials

For this we need:

An insulated piece of two-core wire.
Blade, which is used for a razor in the amount of 2 pieces. You can also use a paint knife blade. If you don’t have any in your apartment, even two metal spoons will do.
A saucepan or jar for water.
Two matches or wood chips.
Threads.

1 option

. You need to attach a wire to the ends of the blades. The blades should not be allowed to touch each other. To do this, we install spacers made of matches or wood chips between them on both sides. Then you should wind the blades with thread. The wires should also not touch. You just need to place a homemade 12-volt boiler in a container of water, plug it into the outlet and wait until it boils.

Option 2

When using a metal container to boil water, one wire can be connected to the pan, and a blade, spoon, or other available metal object can be attached to the other end. It is important to ensure that the latter does not touch the walls of the metal container

This turns out to be a 12 volt boiler.

A self-made boiler with a power of 12 volts copes with boiling a small amount of water quite quickly.

It is important to follow safety precautions

when using this heating device:

Before you are going to use a homemade boiler, you must carefully check all the connections of the structure for strength.
Under no circumstances should you put your hands in the water while heating the liquid (you may get an electric shock).
Do not leave the heating device turned on unattended.
Don't risk boiling salt water. Otherwise, you will cause an explosion, causing most of the water to splash out of the container.
Do not use this design for more than a month. And also think about the quality of the water you are going to drink. Due to the ingress of metals into it, the water becomes of poor quality.

How to use a boiler?

Now you know how to make a boiler with your own hands. The design diagram is shown in the figure in the article. But you still need to know how to use it. The main requirement for the container in which boiling will be carried out is that it should not conduct electricity.

Plastic or ceramic containers are suitable (the second is preferable)

You also need to be careful when turning it on and off. First, lower the device into the water, then just turn it on.

And when heating, do not touch the water, wire or container.

From spoons

For such a boiler you will need two metal spoons, a two or three-wire cable, a power plug, a glass jar and two clothespins. The process of making a boiler consists of the following stages:

remove the insulation from the cable and wires to obtain 2–3 cm of bare wires on each side; Rice. 11: Strip the insulation from the wires
attach a plug to one end of the cable, and attach spoons to the terminal of the other end;
place the spoons in a glass jar on opposite sides and secure with clothespins, the spoons should not touch;

Rice. 12: Attach the spoons with clothespins
secure the cable on the outside of the can with tape.

Rice. 13: Secure the cable with tape

The boiler is ready - just pour water into the jar and plug in the plug. Please note that it is unsafe to move the jar with the device turned on, so first unplug the boiler.

Rice. 14: finished kettle made from spoons

How it works

Electric current flows between points of different potentials. Of course, the medium must be conductive. Water is far from a dielectric; the resistance is quite low (unless, of course, it is a distillate). If you immerse two electrodes with a sufficient potential difference in a glass of water, the current strength will be very high. So much so that the heating temperature will cause the water to boil. For comparison, a similar current flows through the filament of an incandescent lamp. The metal becomes white hot.

Why doesn't a glass of water explode? The resulting steam bubbles are a kind of dielectrics that protect the system from short circuits. Let's not go into calculations of voltage and current, let's turn to practice.

Materials used for making the boiler

To make a boiler you will need:

soldering iron;
soldering tin;
pliers;
heating element of an electric kettle;
soldering acid;
plug;
cable PVS 2*0.75.

Soldering wires

The ends of the cable wires are first stripped of insulation, etched with alcohol-rosin flux or soldering acid, and a layer of tin is applied to the ends of the wires. The heating element contacts are also etched and soldered to the ends of the cable wires. The cable length is at your discretion.

For a reliable contact connection with the plug, the ends of the cable wires are also etched, followed by the application of tin.

Contact insulation

As an insulating material for connecting a wire to a heating element, a cambric is first put on a separate wire, then after soldering the wires, the cambrics are put on the contacts of the heating element.

Photo and description

To provide information in a more visual form, the topic will be supplemented with personal photographs.

Photo No. 1 shows a homemade boiler, which we have been using for more than ten years. To make such a boiler you will need about fifteen minutes.

In this image \photo No. 2\ it is clearly visible that terminal blocks are connected to the contacts of the heating element from a used electric kettle.

The two wires of the network cable are respectively also connected to the terminal blocks. Everything is quite simple, you take an unnecessary power cable with a plug and any heating element - a heating element for heating water.

Resistance-heater measurement

Diagnostics of the heating element for our example with a boiler is carried out in the following way:

The multimeter device is set to the range for measuring resistance; two probes of the device can be connected to the pins of the plug as shown in photograph No. 3. The display of the device in the photograph shows the total resistance - the resistance of the network cable and the heating element.

The resistance value for this measurement is 27 ohms.

When measuring the resistance of a separate heating element - heating element \photo No. 4\, the resistance is 38.1 Ohms.

For both methods of measuring resistance, we can conclude that the reading from the device is satisfactory and corresponds to the resistance of this heating element.

How to check the network cable

Checking a single network cable, both for a boiler and for any type of household appliance, is carried out using the following methods:

For example, we need to check the network cable\electrical cord\ with plug. To do this, you can short-circuit two wires of the network cable \photo No. 5\ and connect two probes of the device to the pins of the plug \photo No. 6\.

Photo No. 6

In this device reading \photo No. 6\, with the integrity of two wires of the network cable, the device display shows a very low resistance, the resistance in its value is equal to the short circuit mode.

This will mean that there is no break in the network cable and that the cable is suitable for use.

Photo No. 7

The following method for diagnosing a network cable is shown in the image of photograph No. 7. That is, we also short-circuit one end of the network cable \photo No. 5\ and touch one of the pins of the plug with a probe.

In the same way, each individual wire of the network cable is checked:

for connection \phase, neutral\;
ground \ground wire\.

And as a reminder to all that has been said, such diagnostics are carried out in a passive way \without connecting to an external AC voltage source\. When diagnosing any electrical circuit - a boiler, an electric kettle, and so on, if the resistance value is zero - the electrical connections should be reconsidered.

That's all for now. Follow the section

Homemade 220 Volt boiler: heating element from a working kettle

An alternative option for making a homemade boiler would be to use a heating element from a kettle or other heating device. It is worth noting that the connection diagram, power, principle of operation and heating rate of the liquid will not differ from the declared characteristics.

DIY items:

Twin wire;
Terminal blocks.

First of all (if necessary), we disassemble the old kettle and remove the heating element. The most important thing when carrying out this work is not to damage the contacts of the heating element.

Next, to make a boiler, you will need two terminal blocks in a plastic shell. You can easily find these connectors in any specialized store. They are usually sold in a single package of 20 pieces.

After this, you need to make sure that the heating element is in working condition. To do this, using a multimeter, we test the device for resistance. Set the multimeter to 200 Ohm. The resistance of the heating element should be in the range of 27 - 38 Ohms.

Then, we attach two terminal blocks to the contacts of the heating element. On the other hand, we attach a wire to these pads. The best option would be to use a wire with a ready-made plug to connect to the mains. If there is no plug, you should mount it to the wire.

Next, be sure to insulate the junction of the wire with the heating element. To do this, you can use heat-shrinkable tubes, which are put on before connecting the wire, or regular electrical tape.

After assembly, the device is tested with a multimeter. If the resistance is normal, it is connected to the network. Ready!

How to make a boiler with your own hands - the best proven methods

Most often, in artisanal conditions, boilers are made from:

Razor blade. Blades Satellite.
Nails.
Heating element for a kettle.

Heating element from an old kettle

You can also make functional devices for heating water at home from nichrome wire, which is installed on a ceramic insulator.

The main task that must be accomplished when designing heating elements yourself is to minimize the possibility of short circuits and electric shock. When using low-voltage homemade products, there is little to fear from electric shock, but devices operating on a 220 V network can cause accidents and fire.

How to make a homemade water boiler

Why blades, and not, say, spoons, nails, and other metal objects? Optimal balance of consumer characteristics.

Firstly, this method has been around for decades, and in “those days” almost the entire male population shaved with a safety blade. The material was always at hand. So - traditions...
Secondly, the surface area of the resulting electrodes was wonderfully suited to balance the characteristics. The load on the electrical wiring was not too high, and at the same time the water boiled quite quickly.
Finally, the material. The blades are made of fairly high quality steel. They last a long time and practically do not pollute water.

Let's take a closer look at the last point. There is such a thing as electrolysis. When an electric current occurs between the electrodes in a liquid medium, particles of the material move along with the electrons. A significant part remains in the water, not reaching the opposite electrode. Naturally, this does not make the water any tastier, and if you have a homemade boiler made from nails, it is not suitable for drinking at all. So blades (especially high quality ones) are an ideal donor for the heater.

How it works

From nails

For such a boiler you will need 6 nails 8cm long, a wooden strip about 2cm thick that can be installed on the edge of a container made of non-conductive material, a ready-made power cord or a pair of wires with a plug. To work, you need pliers and a drill with a drill bit of the same diameter as the nails.

The principle of creating a boiler is as follows:

drill holes in the board at a distance of 5 mm from each other;
insert the nails into the holes, leaving a free distance of 2 - 3 cm above the board so that it is convenient to wind the wire;
Rice. 10: Insert nails into holes
strip the edges of the cable by 5 - 10 cm with a knife or wire cutters, you should be left with bare metal without varnish or other insulation;
screw the exposed wires to the nails right under the heads - 3 nails for each wire, note that the reliability of the electrical connections depends on the tightness of the fit, so they need to be tightened as tightly as possible;
Drive the nails in as far as possible using pliers, but make sure that the mechanical impact does not weaken the electrical contact point.

The boiler is ready, pour water into a glass jar or plastic bowl, place a bar on top so that the sharp edges of the nails are immersed in the water. Plug in the boiler and wait until it boils. Never try to check the heating temperature of the water with your finger or hand, as you will receive an electric shock if the boiler is turned on.

From the heating element of the kettle

You can also assemble a boiler from an unnecessary electric kettle, provided that the heating element is in working order. In this case, you don’t need to come up with anything extra - you will need the heating element itself and a cord with a plug. First, check the integrity of both parts of the electrical device using a multimeter.

Rice. 7: Check with a multimeter

Ring the cord and heating element, if they are in good working order, then they can be safely used to make a boiler.

To connect the terminals of the heating element, it is more convenient to use terminal clamps, but if you don’t have these on hand, you can use a regular soldering iron.

To make a boiler, follow these steps:

disassemble the kettle and remove the heating element from it, do the same procedure with the stand and remove the cord from it; if the cable is long enough, you can simply cut it at the base.
using a knife or wire cutters, remove the insulation from the edges of the wire;
secure the terminal clamps to the contacts of the heating element using a screwdriver;
on the other side, connect the stripped wires of the cord to the terminals; Rice. 8: connect the wires to the heating element
Use a multimeter to check the boiler circuit and the resistance between the terminals of the plug and the housing.

Rice.
9: ready-made boiler from heating element The boiler is ready, it can be used both for heating technical water and for boiling drinking water. In terms of its operating parameters, it is no different from a classic kettle or boiler, so it can also be used in metal containers. Due to the fact that the heating device uses a factory heating element, you get a fairly powerful boiler.

The most powerful homemade boiler

Nichrome spiral

In order to boil a large volume of water, you can make a powerful portable device from available materials. To manufacture the device you will need the following parts:

Nichrome spiral with a wire diameter of at least 1 mm.
Industrial fuse series PN 2.
Two-core cable made of wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm2.
Screwdriver and wood screws 20 mm.
The plug is of a collapsible type.

Fuse PN-2

The manufacture of a powerful device for heating water is carried out in the following sequence.

The PN-2 fuse is disassembled to remove the ceramic body of the product.
8 self-tapping screws, which were formed during disassembly of the device, are screwed into holes in the body of the ceramic insulator.
The end of a nichrome spiral clings to one of the 8 screws.
Then, inside the body of the electrical insulator, the spiral is pushed through to the opposite end of the round insulator and again fixed around the screw.
The spiral turns in the opposite direction, but is already fixed to another screw screwed into the insulator.
In the same way, the spiral and self-tapping screws are connected at 5 more points, after which stripped copper wires are connected to the first and last screws and the screws are completely screwed into the ceramic insulator. Considering the significant power of such a homemade boiler, the cross-section of the connected copper wire must be at least 4 mm2. A plug is installed on the other end of the wire.

Checking a powerful homemade water heater

The boiler can only be operated in a suspended state. The heating element must be completely immersed in the water and must not touch the walls or bottom of the tank. When using a homemade powerful boiler, it is strictly forbidden to touch the container and body of the device while heating the water.

Boiler from a tin can

We've sorted out the razor blades and tablespoons. What about tin cans?

Yes, some home craftsmen even manage to assemble a homemade boiler from such “consumer goods”.

Necessary materials:

tin can (from stewed meat, condensed milk or various canned products such as green peas or corn);
wooden sticks;
sewing or nylon threads;
electrical cord with plug.

From a tin can you need to cut two rectangular plates with “ears” into which holes are drilled.

Next, you will need to prepare six wooden sticks from any tree (birch, oak, pine, etc.).

We place the first plate from a tin can on two wooden sticks. We put two more sticks and a second plate on top. Then we place the last two sticks on top of the second plate.

The ends of the wooden sticks should protrude beyond the metal plates. We connect them with a thread.

We strip the two ends of the electrical wire and attach them to the “ears” on the metal plates.

We place the completed electric boiler in a three-liter jar of water. We plug the plug into the outlet, and then all that remains is to wait until the water boils.

The step-by-step process of making an electric boiler for heating water can be seen below in the author’s video.

For those interested: the author managed to bring 3 liters of water to a boil in 40 minutes. One liter can be boiled in 10-13 minutes.

12 Volt boiler

A popular device for many car owners, which allows you to heat water far from civilization using power from a car battery. The most difficult thing is the selection of a heating element, which is calculated by the formula: P = U 2 / R

where P is the power of the boiler;

U – supply voltage rating;

R – circuit resistance.

For example, with a circuit resistance of 1 Ohm, the power of a boiler powered by a 12V source will be 144W. Accordingly, the heating time of the glass will be about 10 – 15 minutes.

The heating element can be ceramic resistors or a nichrome thread wound on a textolite. Connect them to the two terminals of the battery and the boiler is ready. The main condition is that the heating container must be made of dielectric material.

Rice. 15: 12V heating element

Alternative options

Another donor for contacts is heels for army boots and combat boots.

They are assembled in the same way as from blades: threads, matches. The performance and power are similar. Since the metal is of relatively high quality, water boiled with their help can be drunk.

The efficiency of this design is very high: a liter jar boils in less than a minute.

Principle of operation

In fact, the principle of operation is quite simple. The main condition for the operation of this electrode boiler (and that is exactly what it is called) is a heated body, in this case it is water. The liquid that is between the two electrodes must be electrically conductive. This is why a homemade boiler cannot boil distilled water, since there are no conditions suitable for electrical conductivity. This is due to the fact that a conductor is required for the flow of an electrical impulse. That is why distilled water is very often used as experiments between plates.

To prevent an electrical short circuit, several wooden spacers must be inserted between the two blades, which must then be secured with threads. Yes, this is a rather painstaking process, but the result is worth it.

A boiler for those who are afraid to put wires in water

People who are not very well versed in physics, and in particular in electrical processes, are often surprised how they can dip bare wires into water.

And even after seeing how others do it, they are still afraid to repeat it. In principle, this is correct. Such homemade products are actually dangerous.

Nevertheless, especially for such suspicious and distrustful people, some home craftsmen came up with the design of a homemade electric boiler, made in such a way as not to immerse the ends of the wires in water.

Necessary materials:

2 stainless steel metal plates;
electrical cord with plug;
a small piece of plastic (the author uses the front panel of the PC system unit);
fasteners - 2 bolts, 2 nuts and 4 washers.

First of all, you will need to strip the ends on the two cores of the electrical cord, and twist them into rings.

Next, using the prepared bolts, nuts and washers, we fasten the ends of the wire to the metal plates in which we need to pre-drill holes or cut out U-shaped grooves. The plates themselves are attached to a plastic part.

The edges of the plates (on one side of the workpieces) will need to be bent at an angle of 90 degrees.

Thus, the electrodes will be on one side of the plastic, and the wires on the other. Only the metal plates themselves are placed in a container with water, while the ends of the wires will be completely dry.

Place the plastic plate with the electrodes on a mug of water (or other container) and plug the plug into the outlet. For reliability, you can secure the wire with a clamp or clothespin so that it does not dangle.

You can watch the video for details on how to make a boiler with your own hands. The author of the YouTube channel GlucMaster shared his experience.

Do-it-yourself boiler repair: rules

In most cases, the boiler can be easily repaired yourself. This requires some tools and strict adherence to instructions.

Tool for work:

It is worth noting that work done correctly and efficiently will allow the device to last a long time.

Malfunctions of boilers include failure of the heater, damage to the cable and malfunction of the plug.

If the heater fails, it must be completely replaced. But if the malfunction is insufficient contact of the wire with the terminals of the heating element, then the following must be done. Using pliers, you bite off the plastic that hides the contacts of the device.

Next, the burnt wire is disconnected and reconnected. As insulation, you can use a gun with liquid plastic.

If the cable itself malfunctions, it is separated at the break point and connected using terminal blocks. It is better not to use twists for these devices.

If the contact in the plug is broken, it is necessary to disassemble the device and make a quality connection.

Razor blade boiler

This option has already become a classic for people who lived during the period of domestic shortages. Over the years, a lot of variations of such heating devices and decent experience in their implementation have appeared, so let’s look at this model in more detail. Blades are not the only option for boiler electrodes, but they are used most often and this is due to several important reasons:

High quality steel - during electrolysis, an electric current flows in the water column, formed by metal electrons released from the electrodes. Due to the resistance of the liquid, not all particles move from one electrode to another, but precipitate in the form of metal, significantly changing the taste of the water. Razor blades are made of fairly high quality, so the percentage of sediment from such a boiler will be minimal.
Optimal ratio of geometric and physical parameters - despite the fact that no one invented blades as an electrode for a boiler, they provide a relatively high rate of heating of the liquid.
Mass distribution - can be found in almost every home, garage or workshop, which is why they are always at hand.

Materials for a blade boiler

Before manufacturing, you need to acquire the following elements:

The blades themselves - for the quality operation of the boiler, the brand and condition of the cutting surfaces do not matter; you can even use dull blades

It is important that they are of the same design; it is better if you take them from the same package. A dielectric for isolating one blade in a boiler from another - you can use any items you have (plastic lids, plugs). If nothing comes to mind, it is best to use regular matches to isolate the heating elements from each other. Material for fixing electrodes in a boiler - threads are most often used

You definitely shouldn’t fasten it with glue, and even more so, you shouldn’t resort to wire and other metal products - they will immediately short-circuit the blades. Power cord with plug - any option with stranded copper wires that can be conveniently screwed around the blade will do.

This is a minimal set; if you wish, you can complicate the design by using crocodiles to connect wires to the blades or installing a plastic block as a base.

Manufacturing procedure

To make a boiler from blades, it is advisable to have the following tools on hand: pliers, a knife or side cutters, and electrical tape. The manufacturing process is as follows:

strip the wires on the power cord with the electrical plug, you will need about 2 - 3cm of bare wire;
Rice. 1. Strip the wires
screw each end of the wire to the blade, note, do not try to solder them - it is useless, you need to screw the wire tightly, if you can’t do it by hand, take pliers;
Rice. 2: Screw the wires to the blade
fix the blades at a distance from each other using a dielectric, in this case matches are used;
Rice. 3: Put matches between the blades
wrap the resulting boiler with threads so that it does not fall apart during use; if it holds up as it is, you can do without threads.
Rice. 4: Secure the blades with thread

The homemade water heater is ready, it should be noted that the distance between the blades determines both the parameter of the power consumed from the network and the heating rate. Therefore, you will get the fastest heating at a distance of 2 - 3 mm (per match thickness); at a distance of 2 - 3 cm, the heating time will increase proportionally.

Rice. 5: Perpendicular placement of blades on matches

But the amount of electricity consumed to boil water, say, in a half-liter jar, will be the same for both cases.

Do not forget that all homemade boilers that pass electric current through the heated liquid cannot be immersed in metal containers; they will be under potential and can give an electric shock. Only dishes made of dielectric material are suitable - glass, polymer and others.

Rice. 6: Blade boiler in action

Razor-boiler

Home craftsman A boiler made from 2 safety razor blades is probably known to those who served in the army. Those who did not serve could see such a homemade boiler in films about the zone. It is with this that chayfir is boiled in places not so remote. But this is all lyrics. Let's move on to the manufacturing process.

Making such a boiler is very simple - just take a couple of matches, two safety razor blades and a piece of wire with a plug.

How to assemble a boiler with your own hands can be seen in the photo.

It is necessary to ensure that the razors do not touch each other. A wire is wound on each side of the safety blade.

The power of a razor boiler is about 1 kilowatt, so be careful.

It can only be boiled in non-conductive containers - for example, a glass jar or glass.

During use, do not touch the water or blades - this can be life-threatening!

Using this boiler is very simple. Place it in a jar of water and plug it into a power outlet. The boiler heats water with a volume of one liter very quickly - in 10-15 seconds. After the water boils, unplug the power cord and remove the boiler from the glass container. Now you can add tea leaves to boiling water and enjoy your tea.

Do not try to use a homemade razor boiler to heat water with tea leaves; tea leaves falling between the razor blades will cause a short circuit and blow out the fuses.

All by yourself and with your own hands

The soldier comments:

I boiled tea like this in the army. xxx comments:

Tough.
1l 10 15 sec. cooler than a teapot! Kotya)))) comments:
I tried everything, it worked, the blade needs to be kept further away
Alec comments:
We cut out round timbers from a tin can, punched holes with a nail, placed two sticks between the round timbers, wrapped them with thread, and screwed the wires.
The boiler was ready, they even boiled it with tea, and the wiring was already smoking to the music of it. Samodelkin comments:
But the leash won’t smoke?
The electrician comments:
will you be able to drink water afterwards?
The master comments:
Or better yet, a piece of glass between the blades.
This way the water will become cleaner and will not contain metal impurities. Ivan comments:
I made a boiler from two silver plates as well as from blades.
And boiling and ionization of water. Master2 comments:
Better yet, put water in your mouth and put your fingers in the socket!
Roman comments:
The last comment is very good)))))) This is how terminators are born)))))
Ron comments:
And the Pindos die!
:). Alexey comments:
Really cool) I’ll try it now)
The dissatisfied one comments:
And I fucking wonder where my blades always disappear!!!!
The cat comments:
To Master 2: If you also pour Rollton into your mouth, then you can also have some refreshment.
Flint comments:
Prison technology! In the army, we boiled tea at the post in a three-liter jar

Maxim comments:

I did this too, only I took 4 matches, 2 on each side, and there was more distance between the blades.
Maxim comments:
Do razors rust in them?
Artem comments:
Razors are made from stainless steel.
So they don't rust. Nikita comments:
There was a case where we cooked pasta with a boiler like this.
A friend decided to salt them... Well, here we go. Lightly comments:
The army used such a boiler.
cheap, cheerful and unsafe, you need to be careful Oleg comments:
By the way, the version of the boiler in the picture is incorrect and dangerous, it will immediately shorten in the water and knock out the plugs. matches need to be clamped between the blades so that the blades, God forbid, do not touch each other, and securely tied with thread

Manufacturing technology

We will need the following materials:

Power cable with plug (preferably with a cross-section of at least 0.75).
Two safety blades. The sharpness of the edge does not matter, usually just dull ones were used. It will be better if both electrodes are the same (for uniform wear). In the case of blades - one company, preferably from the same package.
Dielectric for installation between blades. Matches were usually used. You cannot simply lower the electrodes in a freely suspended state. They may touch (moving while boiling) and a short circuit will occur.
Thread for fixing structural elements. As practice has shown, this is the safest method of fastening. You can't use glue; the rest of the fasteners simply don't fit.

Instructions for creation

Many became acquainted with this type of equipment when they served in the Soviet army or in any other conditions where it was necessary to boil water, but there was no suitable device for this purpose.

To create a boiler you need the following items:

2 blades.
Matches.
Two-core wire.

In order to make such a boiling unit, it is necessary to attach wires to two heating elements (in this case, blades). They should not touch each other, so spacers made of matches must be installed between them. Next, all that remains is to lower the finished device into water and bring it until it begins to boil.

Video on the topic

Do-it-yourself car kettle (boiler, boiler, water heater)! Why you ask? Yes, because it is almost impossible to buy a normal kettle for your car. The volumes of the kettles are small and even small volumes they boil extremely slowly. It's normal to warm up a mug of tea or coffee in 20 minutes. This is fine? If you are a traveler and there is more than one person in your car, this is not normal. If you have a large car and the generator in the car is capable of giving you an extra 40-50A, it makes sense for you to get acquainted with the simple and proven idea of a kettle.