How to disassemble a heated floor thermostat?

Repair of a heated floor sensor in an apartment

The most common reason for the breakdown of a “warm floor” system is the failure of thermostats (thermostats) and its sensors.
Let us recall that the thermostat is a control device with a housing, operation indication and electronics. And the sensor is a thermistor with an extension wire, which is located in the heating zone. How to repair a heated floor thermostat and, if necessary, replace the heated floor sensor? We wrote about this

Causes of malfunctions

Successful repair of this heating system lies in the correct diagnosis of the cause of its failure

If the system stops working or the operating mode changes, it is important to know the causes of these breakdowns

Heating cable

The main and most common reason is the initially incorrect selection of the characteristics of the electrical cable and its power. If there is a discrepancy between the power of the heating element and the network voltage in the device, the floor heating will be weak, and will subsequently lead to failure of the entire system. Such cases are not uncommon when designing a system yourself. Only qualified specialists who know all the intricacies and features of installing heated floors will help correct the situation.

Another common reason for a poorly heating cable is failure to comply with standards when installing the structure, as well as accidental mechanical damage to the wires. These malfunctions will lead to the cessation of heating of the floor surface around the entire perimeter of the room. This failure leads to a complete replacement of the injured area.

Cable mats

The cause of failure of cable mats is often accidental mechanical damage, caused by improper operation of the structure or careless installation. Failure to follow the rules for installing cable mats also leads to breakdowns of the entire system.

Thermal sensor

An incorrectly installed temperature sensor can stop the heating of the system, which will lead to the stop of the heated floor and heating of the room. There are also frequent cases of system failure due to improper power supply to the structure, lack of thermal insulation, and non-compliance with material parameters. Thus, incorrect calculations at the design stage of a heated floor can lead to serious consequences, which are quite difficult to solve on your own.

Malfunctions of the thermostat may be due to poor contact of the connecting terminals. In this case, the terminals will be subject to strong heating and will eventually lead to breakdown of the entire system.

Repair of floor heating thermostat

To find a breakdown, you must first remove the thermostat.

Important! Before you begin repairing the heated floor thermostat, be sure to turn off the power to it if this device is connected to a separate circuit breaker, or turn off the electricity in the entire apartment, i.e. by unscrewing the plugs or turning off the input switch.

Damage to the thermostat and how to fix it

I. The control lamp on the front panel of the thermostat does not light up, it does not turn on at all, or not only its display.

In these cases it is necessary:

Liked this:

This entry was posted on 02.12.2015, 17:42 and is filed under Anatomy, About everything, Objects. You can follow any responses to this entry through RSS 2.0. You can scroll to the end and leave a comment. Replies are currently not allowed.

#1 by Igor Olenin on 01/13/2016 — 15:01

Wonderful article! Respect to the author. Saved 7 thousand rubles for the repair of two thermostats at an official service center. Spare parts (ionistor and capacitor X2) cost 300 rubles. The ionistor really has nothing to do with it. Changed it - the problem did not go away. Then I replaced the capacitors and everything worked! In addition to the article, the exact characteristics of spare parts for replacement from Chip and Dip: EECS0HD334H, 0.33 F, 5.5 V, 10 mm, 1207H, Ionistor, B32922-C3334-K, 0.33 uF, 305V, 10%, X2, EMI suppression capacitor.

Device type and installation location

The reliability of the underfloor heating system itself is exceptional and can last for decades. If heating does not occur, most often this means that the reason is the thermostat or the sensor. The latter device is a thermistor protected by a glass bulb and a gel shell with a securely insulated copper conductor 3 meters long connecting it to the thermostat.

This is what the sensor looks like for tile and porcelain stoneware floors. Under carpet and laminate, another type in a plastic case is installed. The sensor usually comes with a protective corrugated tube with a diameter of 16 mm. It is located under the heating element at a distance of 0.5-1 m from the wall exactly in the middle between the turns of the heating cable and is fixed in place with foil tape.

Signs of a malfunctioning temperature sensor and steps to replace it

In addition to the system stopping, a malfunction of the temperature sensor is indicated by the flickering of a red light on the panel or its color changing to green when turned on. A fault warning may appear on the display. And you will have to replace the heated floor temperature sensor with a new one with your own hands.

It's not difficult at all if you follow this procedure:

Removing a faulty sensor begins with turning off the power supply.
The device is then disconnected from the wires connected to the terminals on the rear panel. Their location may be separate from the terminals of the block, but they are easy to find by the designation next to the inscription “sensor”.
The resistance of the disconnected sensor is checked. It must be indicated in the device passport and is usually in the range of 5-15 kOhm. If the real resistance corresponds to the passport value, the fault is hidden in poor contact.
To be completely sure, you should reconnect the wires to the terminals. If the sensor works, but its resistance differs from that specified in the passport, and the difference is more than 20%, the device requires replacement.
It must be removed from the corrugated tube and a new device must be placed there with wires connected to it to the same length as the failed one was located.

Useful tips for replacing a heated floor temperature sensor with your own tutorials

For safety reasons, replacing the heated floor sensor yourself is done when the system is de-energized. Temperature sensors from different manufacturers may have differences in nominal resistance. In order for the temperature sensor to exactly match the thermostat, you need to purchase a replacement device from the same company.

The corrugated tube that should go into the junction box is often of a diameter that makes it difficult to install a new sensor. Simply put, it is difficult to push it there. To facilitate this task, home craftsmen use various tricks, such as lubricating the sensor wire with liquid soap or vegetable oil to facilitate its movement in a tight tube.

To facilitate the procedure for replacing a temperature sensor in a heated floor, many people subsequently replace the corrugated pipe with a piece of metal-plastic pipe of the appropriate diameter. Such a pipe has smooth walls on the inside, which greatly facilitates the placement of a new temperature sensor in it.

What should you pay attention to when installing the sensor?

When installing any heating system, the temperature sensor must be inserted into the fan-shaped heating zone. The minimum distance of the sensor from the wall is 0.5 meters, between the second branch of heating elements or a thin heating mat. This will allow you to correctly monitor the floor temperature at this point. The readings taken from the fan zone correspond to reality as much as possible, even if we are talking about hundredths.

The location of the thermostat sensor between the first line of laying the cable heating element will lead to the recording of incorrect data and, as a result, a decrease in the service life of the heated floor. This will be triggered by overheating of the conductor or frequent on/off cycles in a minimum time period.

If we are talking about installing an intelligent thermostat with an output sensor that calculates the heating and cooling rate of the screed, ignoring the mentioned placement will disrupt the “prediction” function. It is also worth noting that a significant difference in readings between actual and detected heating can lead to an error such as a sensor break. In fact, there is nothing wrong with the sensor, it is just located in a colder zone and does not see changes in the thermal background when the screed is heated and cooled above the underfloor heating cable.

The lack of resistance information for the thermostat is fraught not only with wear and tear of the entire system, but also with the failure of the included prediction programs, which can only be eliminated by contacting a service center.

With mechanical regulators the situation is simpler. No programs or settings, only mechanical control buttons that set the desired temperature according to data from the sensor. Placing the latter in the first line or cold zone will indicate insufficient heating. The transition from a comfortable mode to increased heating will provoke not only wear and tear on the mats and cables, but also melting of the contacts in the junction box where the household network connects to the consumer itself.

Repair of electric underfloor heating. Price.

offers repair of heated floors at the prices indicated below. We search for the location of a break or damage without opening the floor using special instruments. We will install a special repair coupling on the cable at the point of damage. Soldering and electrical tape are not applicable in principle in the case of a heating cable. We will replace the thermostat and temperature sensor.

Reasons for failure of heated floors:

Mechanical damage, such as cuts, squeezing (deformation) of the heating cable. The heating cable may not be completely cut, but only cut or cut to the heating core - this is quite enough for the system to stop working. How long will she live with such damage? This is individual and depends on many factors; as a rule, the critical period of operation of heated floors is the first three years.
Heating cable operation in air. This happens when air voids remain under the tiles. After all, as we all know from school physics lessons, air and tile adhesive heat up at different rates, and it is in the places of air voids that the heating core of the heated floor burns out.
Damage to the thermostat or temperature sensor,

We provide a guarantee for all underfloor heating repair work . Repair parts are always in stock.

Ask your question to our consultants by phone in St. Petersburg: (812) 493-57-98, 8-911-250-55-43. (Call from 9:00 to 21:00)

Photos of damage to the heated floor:

Types of heated floors

Heated floors are figuratively divided into 3 groups depending on the heat transfer components used:

A hydraulic heated floor transfers heat specifically to a concrete surface from metal-polymer pipes, in the middle of which a hot coolant flows. For the system to function, the hydraulic circuit is connected to the main heating system or the coolant is heated using a boiler.

Hydraulic heated floor

In an electrical system, a separated wire acts as a heating element, laid according to a given pattern on the heated surface. This can be a long product, or ready-made mats, in which the wire is laid with a certain step from the very beginning. To maintain the required temperature operating conditions, the system is equipped with a thermostat.

Infrared models are among the most progressive. They can actually be placed under various floor covering

. According to doctors, the infrared radiation generated has a good effect on human health.

Attention! Almost all types of heated floors have their own specifics. The reasons for failure in each specific case are determined individually depending on the operating principle of the system

Thermostat repair

It's no secret that sometimes thermostats fail, and at the most inopportune moment. There are several reasons for this sad event. The most common is incorrect installation: an error in the connection diagram (such as mixing up wires and terminals, too much load), painting the installed thermostat, installing the thermostat in a damp room. With such errors, the thermostat either immediately fails or its service life is significantly reduced. Trust the installation of the thermostat only to a professional electrician.

The second reason is related to the design features of thermostats. The fact is that basically their power supplies are built according to a transformerless circuit with a ballast capacitor (almost all regulators from such companies as: OJ Electronics, Eberle, Raychem, some DEVI), or according to a key stabilizer circuit such as, for example, Devireg D530, Devireg D535 , Veria B45, Veria T45.

Read Self-leveling floor thickness maximum

Such thermostats are sensitive to impulse noise in the power supply network, which occurs when devices such as a welding transformer, hammer drill or electric lawn mower are turned on near the controller, which often happens in country houses. In such conditions, it is better to use regulators with transformer power supplies that do not allow impulse noise to pass through (for example, the Busch Jaeger NTC100 regulator).

To receive a discount on DEVI heated floors, call!!

Did your heated floor suddenly stop heating or did not turn on immediately after laying the tiles?

Heated floor thermostat

There can be only two reasons for malfunctions of a heated floor: thermostat . for some reason does not supply voltage to the heating cable and/or the heating cable circuit is open. In this article we will look at the first one - the thermostat is not working .

Thermostat.

what a thermostat is and how it works here. A thermostat malfunction is easy to diagnose . Usually this can be done by any technically literate person who knows how to use a multimeter.

To diagnose the thermostat, it must be removed .

Removing the floor heating thermostat

IMPORTANT! Before starting work, be sure to turn off the power to the thermostat . if it is powered through a separate circuit breaker, or de-energize the entire apartment by turning off the input switch or unscrewing the plugs.

Thermostat malfunction

Possible malfunctions of the thermostat and how to deal with them:

The thermostat does not turn on. The indicator lamp on the front panel does not light up or the display does not turn on.

In this case, you first need to check whether there is power at the supply terminals. To do this, with the power off, remove the thermostat from the installation box without disconnecting the wires. Then, turning on the power, you need to check the presence of voltage at the supply terminals of the thermostat. The supply terminals are marked with the letters N (zero) and L (line/phase). The voltage is checked either using a multimeter (tester) - between the supply terminals or using a test screwdriver - at terminal L and, just in case, at terminal N. According to the rules, a blue wire (wire with a blue stripe) must be connected to terminal N. and to terminal L - a white or red (brown) wire. If there is no voltage on the supply wires, the problem is not in the underfloor heating system, but in the wiring or switchboard. If your diagnostics have revealed that the phase wire fits into terminal N of the thermostat, the so-called “rephasing”, you need to swap the supply wires, first turning off the voltage. “Rephasing” can lead to failure of the thermostat.

Read Decorating a toilet with PVC panels with your own hands

If the power is present and correctly phased, but the control lamp or display on the thermostat does not turn on, it means the thermostat has failed. Such a malfunction cannot be corrected under “field” conditions; it is easier to replace the entire thermostat. If the warranty period for the thermostat has not yet expired, you should have it replaced under warranty.

The thermostat turns on, but does not enter operating mode. On the front panel only the green light is on or the display turns on, but the floor heating icon is not displayed.

In this case, the initial check consists of setting a higher temperature by turning the thermostat wheel upward or by setting on the display a temperature that is obviously higher than the current room temperature (30-350). If, in this case, the thermostat does not return to operating mode, the thermostat will probably need to be replaced.

When the thermostat is turned on, the red light on the panel immediately changes color to green or blinks red, and the display indicates a malfunction of the temperature sensor.

The temperature sensor has failed. It is quite possible to replace it yourself, provided that the temperature sensor is initially correctly installed in the corrugated tube leading into the junction box. To do this, you need to first turn off the power, remove the thermostat, disconnect the temperature sensor wires (as a rule, these are the thinnest wires) connected to the corresponding terminals on the rear panel. The terminals are designated by the word “sensor” or “sensor” and can be located separately from the main terminal block. After disconnecting the sensor, you can check its resistance. The resistance of temperature sensors from different manufacturers is different and ranges from 5-15 KOhm (KiloOhm). The electrical resistance of your sensor is indicated in the thermostat data sheet. Please note that some household testers cannot measure electrical resistance greater than 2 kOhm.

If the resistance of the temperature sensor corresponds to the rated value, poor contact in the terminals is possible. To check, you can once again carefully connect the sensor wires to the appropriate terminals. The thermostat should work . If this does not happen, the thermostat must be checked at a service center. If the resistance of the sensor differs from the nameplate by more than 20%, the temperature sensor must be replaced. Since the sensor is already disconnected from the thermostat, all you have to do is pull it out of the corrugated tube and replace it with a new one. The new sensor must be placed in the corrugated tube to the same length as the old one went there. I draw your attention to the fact that the temperature sensor is an accessory of the thermostat, and not the heated floor, and the nominal resistance of sensors from different manufacturers varies and sensors from one manufacturer may not fit the thermostat of another. Therefore, when purchasing a temperature sensor separately, be sure to specify the name of your thermostat and the manufacturer.

Read Length of floor plinth

If for some reason you were unable to replace the failed temperature sensor yourself, our technician will do it quickly and accurately or suggest other ways to solve the problem.

The thermostat enters operating mode. The red light on the front panel is on or the heating icon is displayed on the display, but the floor does not heat up.

In this case, most likely, the heating core of the underfloor heating cable has broken. The article Why does underfloor heating not work will help you understand the reasons?

You can diagnose a break in the following way. From the previously de-energized thermostat, disconnect the wires leading to the heated floor system and measure the electrical resistance between them. The resistance must correspond to the value specified in the passport for your heated floor. If the resistance tends to infinity and/or is measured in MegaOhms, unfortunately, your heated floor actually has a broken heating core . Our technician will repair the break using special tools and equipment.

If you do not have the time or opportunity to study the causes of the malfunction, just call 958-81-66 - heated floor repair specialist, Yuri Igorevich (St. Petersburg)

System Damage

Next, you need to check the temperature sensor and the electric floor heating system itself. To do this, use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the temperature sensor and the cable (or film) itself. If the value does not correspond to the passport value, then the devices are faulty. “0” on the tester display will indicate a short circuit, and “1” or infinity will indicate an open circuit (can occur as a result of mechanical damage). We talked about how to repair a heated floor with your own hands in the corresponding article!

You can find out the nominal resistance of the heating element using the formula: R=U2/P, where U is 220 Volts, and P is the power of the electric floor (you can look it up in the passport or use an approximate calculation of 150 W/m2).

We also draw your attention to the fact that the resistance of the temperature sensor decreases when heated, so if the difference compared to the passport data is small, this indicates its serviceability. If the resistance differs significantly from that declared by the manufacturer, then the sensor is faulty

https://youtube.com/watch?v=f9lTMSrwI-4

Do-it-yourself floor heating thermostat repair

To carry out quick and high-quality diagnostics, which will allow you to find a break in the heated floor or other damage to the heating cable, special devices are required that are not available at home. This manual was developed by the leading European manufacturer of electric underfloor heating - the Warmup company and is recommended primarily for craftsmen involved in the maintenance and repair of heated floors. “Warm floor” systems, made on the basis of a heating cable, are actively used for heating various types of premises. They are mounted under tiles, laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc., are easy to use and provide comfortable conditions for human life. However, like any equipment, they break down from time to time. Let's consider the method of localizing damage in "Warm Floor" systems using Greenlee devices, which are used by the Warmup company.

Types of sensors

The types of sensors for measuring the temperature of a heated floor vary depending on the installation location. There are two types of sensors, external and sensors built into the floor heating system.

Where to start repairing a heated floor

The technology and procedure for performing repair work depend on the design of the heated floor and the automation used. For domestic purposes, three types of heating elements are used:

Cable heater, in the form of a single or three-core wire laid in a concrete screed for a heated floor;
A film graphite element rolled out under laminate or parquet and connected to an automatic regulator;
A water floor, which is a network of plastic tubes laid at the base of tiles or any other floor covering.

For your information! There is an opinion that most often cable heating floors fail. This is not entirely true. A cable or wire heating element is considered the most insidious, and the reliability of a heated floor directly depends on the quality of the material used and the professionalism of the electrician who performed the installation work. First of all, you will need to check the serviceability of the supply wiring, with which the heated floor heater is connected to the household network. The wiring of a conductor heating system, even a Chinese one, uses copper wires, which are highly reliable, while in the walls of an apartment, especially old ones, aluminum wiring is almost always laid, which easily burns out at the connection points.

For water heaters, the presence of pressure at the inlet to the underfloor heating system and the capacity of the tubes are checked, only then they begin to look for a wet spot on the floor covering. It is possible that the reason is not in the heating structure, and expensive repairs of heated floors under the tiles simply will not be required.

Pipeline repair

Before starting repair work, it is recommended to do the following:

Layout of water heated floor

Completely shut off the water supply to the water heated floor system and drain the water from it;
Remove floor covering. Try to dismantle the tiles so as not to damage the adjacent panels. A scraper or a simple knife will help to carefully dismantle the tiles without damaging adjacent areas;
Clear the damaged area and begin dismantling the screed.

There is no need to completely disassemble the floor covering; just determine the location of the break and make a small hole using a hammer drill. Cut off the damaged pipe with a grinder and replace part of the pipeline with a whole piece. For welding copper pipes, ordinary welding is suitable. For the arch of plastic structures, you will need a special soldering iron - a device that heats plastic pipes from the inside.

Repair of underfloor heating system

For metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene: clean and flare the end of the disconnected pipe. Place the fittings and press the pipes. Insert the whole pipe into the fitting and press it into place. Repeat this operation for the other end of the pipe. Cut off the excess part of the pipe and press the connection. Turn on the water and check for leaks. If everything is fine with the pipeline, we can restore the screed.

Tip: Insulate the ends of the pipeline to prevent debris and other dirt from getting into it. Foreign objects can clog the pipeline and lead to another breakdown of the heating system.

General recommendations:

Always take into account the wishes and advice of the water floor manufacturer;
When installing a new screed or partially restoring the floor covering, take into account the location of the pipeline. The new floor should not put strong pressure on the pipes;

How to properly connect equipment for water heated floors
It is better to choose a place for a new thermostat in a part of the room where there is no large accumulation of furniture and household appliances. Practice has shown that ignoring this simple rule leads to damage to the sensor, and in some cases to the entire heating system;
Do not connect uncertified equipment to the electric heated floor;
Do not forget to turn off the power supply to the house, even if you are repairing a water floor;
Do not carry out repair work later than 20:00 and do not start before 9:00.

[ads-pc-2][ads-mob-2]

Causes of heated floor failure

The thermostat does not receive 220 V;
The heated floor sensor has failed;
The thermostat does not work;
Breakage of the heated floor (heating element).

How to determine what exactly happened to your heated floor? To do this, you can call a heated floor specialist or a qualified electrician, but unfortunately, an electrician cannot always determine the cause. In order for an ordinary electrician and even you to identify the cause of a heated floor malfunction, I am giving you a short video and Instructions for diagnosing a heated floor.

Types of sensors

Let's take a closer look at each type of sensor, its advantages and disadvantages.

Electronic-mechanical. The most affordable option for a thermoregulation sensor. Its mechanism is extremely simple. It consists of a metal plate that changes with temperature changes. With such a mechanism, it is extremely difficult and almost impossible to set the exact required temperature.
Electric. The sensor consists of a small screen and additional buttons. The sensor determines the floor temperature by measuring the floor surface. Unlike the first one, this sensor will help you set the temperature you need exactly to the degree you need. You can configure and control it using buttons.
Programmable. The most expensive of thermostats, but also the most functional. With its help, you can both adjust the temperature that suits you, but also set a specific operating mode. You can program the system to run at specific times. Thereby reducing energy consumption in your absence. The floor may become warm before you arrive.

There are various designs and colors of programmable sensors. From the whole variety, you can choose the one that suits you. It is equipped with a screen that displays data about the warm coating.

We repair cable heated floors

The insidiousness of the conductor system lies in the fact that the destruction of the heating wire, as a rule, occurs slowly. Most often, a break occurs due to damage to the insulation and the central core during the assembly of the heated floor. After pouring the concrete screed, electrochemical corrosion completely corrodes the metal within a couple of months, and the contact is broken.

What to check first

The most difficult stage of repair is to find a fault or location of damage in the entire heating system of the room. Diagnosing and identifying the reasons why a heated floor does not work or heats very weakly or unevenly costs a tidy sum, so specialized offices are willing to undertake a preliminary inspection of the heating system.

The sequence of repair of a warm electric floor consists of the following stages:

We check the operation of the thermostat. If the device is faulty, the temperature of the heated floor will “float” or not be regulated at all. In this case, you will need to replace the thermostat with a new “box” of the same model;
If the problem cannot be resolved by replacing the thermostat, the heated floor sensor will need to be repaired;
If the automation check does not produce results, inspection and repair of the heated floor cable using special equipment will be required.

The diagnostic procedure alone for a complete diagnosis of heated floor wiring can cost 3-6 thousand rubles, so it always makes sense to try to repair an electric heated floor yourself before calling a technician. This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, but there is one limitation. You should not undertake repairs to an electrical cable floor if you do not even have basic skills in working with electrical wiring.

A standard RTC70 thermostat will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles, a temperature sensor with a Danfoss WTF type switching wire costs up to 500 rubles. It is best to buy a temperature sensor, and during the repair, at the first opportunity, replace it in the heated floor system.

Repair of floor heating thermostat

The situation with the repair of the heated floor thermostat is ambiguous. If the system has a touch or remotely controlled version of the sensor, then most likely you will not be able to repair the device yourself.

Cheaper models with a mechanical rotary temperature controller, everything is simple here. The adjustment knob is mounted on the collar of a variable resistor, which wears out quite quickly during operation and begins to spark inside the housing. To repair, you just need to select a resistor of the same value and resolder the regulator on the board.

The thyristor of the load control key is repaired in a similar way. You don’t even have to check it with a tester, but immediately solder it to a new, known-good element of the same model and characteristics.

Finding the break point of the heated floor core

Initially, it is necessary to restore the cable laying line in the concrete screed. To do this, you can use any of the hidden wiring detection devices. Based on the indication, you can easily restore the cable laying route and even apply markings to the concrete base.

You can also determine the location of the break using a thermal imager, if you have one on your farm. Even the simplest models of Chinese heat scanners make it possible to see the heating distribution when the network is turned on. The thermal imager will not show the specific point of the cable break, but it will help determine the place where concrete needs to be knocked down for repair.

Next, the electrical power to the heated floor is turned off, and with a small chisel, hammer and brush, the concrete is carefully knocked down along the marking line. The damaged area must be determined visually. Pouring water onto the core and trying to determine the break point with a multimeter, as some “experts” advise, is strictly prohibited.

The location of the wiring break is most accurately determined using a locator, consisting of two blocks. The master module, which generates electrical oscillations of high frequency and voltage, is connected to the cable connector. The second block is a hand-held remote control with a digital indicator of the electric field strength level. By moving the remote control over the laying line, you can accurately determine the point of damage in the cable wiring of the heated floor.

The system can be successfully used even if the heated floor is covered with floor tiles.

Sealing a heated floor cable

After the break point has been found, the place where the heated floor is repaired is thoroughly cleaned and blown away from dust, and the wiring check process is performed in the following order:

At the ends of each wire, 10-15 mm from the edge, remove the shielding foil or braiding, polymer insulation, the conductors are protected and tinned for subsequent repairs;
Both ends of the damaged cable core are connected with pieces of copper, insulated wire to an ammeter;
Turn on the power to the heated floor for a short period and check the current value using the device. If the current consumed by the heated floor is within 1-5 A, then the cable can be repaired; there are no other points of damage.

To repair the heating core, a heat-shrinkable tube is placed on one end of the wire, then the contacts are soldered with a stranded wire or connected with a repair copper sleeve and then compressed. Place a heat shrink tube over the joint, heat it up, and thereby isolate the contact.

All that remains is to repair the heated floor screed and lay the floor covering.

Heating system design

Underfloor heating using electricity is a structure consisting of conductors laid out in a certain order. Through a special unit they are connected to a network with a voltage of 200 volts.

When current passes through the wires, they heat up, transferring heat to the surface adjacent to them. That is, electrical energy is converted into thermal energy . This process is described by the Joule-Lenz law. If, when building an electrical network, wires are selected with a high power transmission coefficient to reduce energy losses, then in underfloor heating systems the opposite is true.

Electric underfloor heating - efficient, easy to install

Electric floors are much easier and cheaper to make than water floors, but there is a lot of controversy about their safety. If the occurrence of an electrical breakdown is practically impossible, then it will not be possible to get rid of the resulting electromagnetic radiation. There is still no exact answer to how harmful it is.

Scientists believe that low-frequency fields lead to an imbalance of iron in the body, reducing the immune system, therefore, when making a cable, a shielding braid is necessarily used to reduce the level of radiation. Any electric heating system is installed under the floor covering and consists of the following elements :

heating cable;
thermostat;
temperature sensor;
foil backing.

It is mounted in a screed on any or under any surface: tiles, concrete, linoleum, wood.

You will see more about heated floors in this video:

Heating methods

There are several ways to implement a heating system. Before you begin repairing a warm electric floor, it is important to know what type of heating is used.

To repair an electric heated floor, you need to know what type of cable is used there

Based on the type of cable used, heated floors are divided into the following types :

Resistive. Wires with high internal resistance are used as conductors. Most often they are made from nichrome. To avoid damage and maintain electrical safety, the heating cores are placed in insulation located in the screen and protective shell. There are single-core and two-core cables. Since there is a need to connect two ends of the cable to the thermostat, installation of the monocore type is characterized by a complex choice of route and is used only for installation in small rooms. But at the same time, the level of electromagnetic radiation in a single-core one is lower.
Self-regulating. Its design uses a two-core wire, each core of which is made of a low-resistance material. Its operating principle is based on the ability of some materials to change their resistance depending on temperature. Thus, electrical conductivity reaches its greatest value at a minimum temperature and decreases as it increases. The heat dissipation value depends on the characteristics of the wire and averages about 80 W. This cable consists of a copper core laid in a layer of semiconducting self-regulating matrix, placed in insulation made of polyolefin and elastomeric thermoplastic. Next, a braid and a protective sheath are put on this entire structure.
Matte. This is the same resistive cable, but significantly different in design. The thermal cable is laid and secured on an elastic mesh backing in the form of a “snake” with a fixed pitch. This approach helps to use a small diameter cable of the order of 2.5-4.5 mm. Its installation is very simple and consists of simply spreading the mat over the surface, and connecting to the power supply is carried out using an electrically safe coupling. The cable used, as in the case of the resistive method, can be either single-core or multi-core.

Temperature regulator

The thermostat is a system control element, the operation of which ultimately determines the comfort created in the room. Its main task is to monitor the efficiency of the system by monitoring and maintaining the heating temperature.

If the thermostat breaks down, it can be easily replaced with a new one.

A sensor is connected to the thermostat that measures the heating temperature of the cable. The design of the recorder is based on the principle of changing the shape of a bimetallic plate under the influence of the temperature acting on it. Recording changes, the sensor sends signals to the thermostat, which changes the strength of the current passing through the wires.

The regulator is universal, so when repairing heated electric floors, if it fails, problems with replacement should not arise. But at the same time, control elements are produced in different types. They can be :

electromechanical;
electronic.

Mechanical devices have a fairly simple design and good maintainability . They consist of a vernier, a temperature scale and a power button. Turn the knob to set the desired floor heating value. As soon as it is reached, the membrane in the device is activated, after which the current supply stops.

Electronic elements are smart devices. In their work, they can regulate heating not only by temperature, but also depending on the time of day. A microprocessor is used as a control element, which is controlled by a special program.

An LCD screen is used to visually display the operating temperature. Although such a device is reliable, it is inferior in maintainability to the mechanical type and, if damaged, is simply replaced.

Laying technology

There are several ways to install electric heating. When repairing heated floors, it is important to know exactly how it was done. This is due to the fact that if a cable break occurs, you have to look for and repair the damage, and for this you will need to remove the floor covering. The installation of heated floors follows generally accepted rules. In particular, this includes the location of the heating elements.

When repairing an electric floor, it is also important to know how it was installed

A thermal insulation layer is laid on the rough coating . This is usually a foil material that prevents the passage of heat in the lower direction. A heating cable is laid out over this layer, the terminals of which are located in the area of connection to the 220 volt network. Next to it is a corrugated tube in which the temperature sensor is located. This tube is tightly closed on the side mounted in the screed, which allows you to easily replace the sensor in the event of a breakdown.

The cable is covered from above with a cement-sand screed , on which a finishing coating is placed. The thickness of the tie depends on the cable design. On average it ranges from 3 to 5 mm. The completed screed must not have voids or be deformed. The ends of the wires from the sensor and the cable itself are connected to the thermostat. The power circuit is also connected to it.

When installing a warm field, it is important to draw up a drawing that will indicate the layout of the cable under the screed layer. It also shows the location of the clutches, thermostat and sensors. This plan is a huge time saver when repairing electrical floors and troubleshooting.

How to check a heated floor sensor

In the electrical panel, turn off the circuit breaker that controls the heated floor. It is necessary to remove the voltage from the thermostat. Turned off? Make sure of this. Check with the device. Only when you have turned off the desired machine and de-energized the heated floor, you can proceed to the next step.

It is necessary to disconnect the heated floor sensor from the thermostat. It is connected to 2 terminals labeled “Sensor” or “Sensor”. Armed with a device for measuring resistance, it is necessary to measure our sensor, its resistance should be:

6.8 kOhm ± 20% if you have a Teplolux thermostat;
10 kOhm ± 20%, if you have a thermostat from Thermo, Devi, Arnold Rak, etc.
40 kOhm ± 20% if you have a thermostat from Eberle and others.

In any case, the resistance value of the heated floor sensor can be found in the instructions for the thermostat.

If, after measuring the resistance of the sensor, you see the number “0” or “1” on the device, this means that the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced. Replacing it is very easy. When installing a heated floor, a corrugated tube is installed specifically for the sensor. It is exactly what is needed for such a case. By pulling the wire you can completely remove the sensor and insert a new one in its place. Compare the length of the old sensor and the new one and insert the new one at this length. The excess wire can be cut off.

If your sensor was faulty and you replaced it with a new one, then you can turn on the heated floor and make sure that it starts heating.

Attention ! If you decide to replace only the heated floor sensor, then be sure to buy the sensor from the same company as the thermostat. A sensor from another thermostat may not be suitable.

Checking the sensor resistance with a multimeter

If the floor is in good working order, but does not function, then the cause of the malfunction lies elsewhere. There is a method for checking a heated floor sensor with a multimeter, since the device is a resistor, which means it has its own resistance.

True, the multimeter readings largely depend on the floor temperature. At a temperature of 5 degrees, it will show 22 kOhm, and at 40C - only 6 kOhm. In general, the resistance of the heated floor sensor should correspond to the factory setting. When it differs from the declared value by more than 5 kOhm or is equal to zero, then the sensor is broken and should be replaced.

Repair of underfloor heating film heater

Of all the options listed, heated floors based on graphitized film are the easiest and fastest to repair. Structurally, such a system consists of three elements:

Floor surface temperature sensor;
Automation unit for thermoregulation of the room heating process;
Long film tapes connected to each other by switching wiring in a parallel circuit.

If one of the heating segments fails, the rest of the heated floor will still remain operational and will heat the room. Most often this happens when the laminate is laid incorrectly or the flooring is pushed through by the legs of heavy furniture. To repair, you will need to determine where the part of the floor that is not heating up is located, disassemble the laminate and completely replace the failed graphite tape.

If the supply wire breaks, you will need to disassemble the covering and solder the wire, as is the case with cable floor heating.

The main reasons for weak heating of underfloor heating

Supply voltage. It’s good if the network has a stable voltage of 220 - 230 V. But if it decreases by at least 10%, the built-in power will decrease by 19%! In this case, installation of a voltage stabilizer is indicated.
Heating cable resistance. When it increases by 10%, the released power decreases by 10%.
Heating cable length. If its factory length increases even by 2%, the linear and total power decreases by 2%.

If a faulty heating cable is detected, the floor covering and screed will have to be opened

When damage occurs in a cable covered with a screed, troubleshooting is useless because replacement or repair is extremely rare. If we are talking about a film field, then you can lift the covering and try to independently find the place where the short circuit occurred.

Proper installation and operation is the key to ensuring that the heated floor will work efficiently. But even if you need to replace system components, you can do it yourself.