When you turn on the Electric Stove, the Automatic Knocks Out Reasons • When you turn on the light

The stove goes out after turning on the oven, fix

We turn off the power to ensure the safety of the master. Under no circumstances should repair work be carried out while the power is on.
The thermostat must be turned to the minimum temperature until you hear a click. If it is not there, then you can be sure that the device has failed. If desired, you can perform another check of the thermostat by simply leaving it in the center position and applying power. In this mode, the thermostat should turn off every 30 seconds.
Now you can remove the handles. Before doing this, you should definitely read the manufacturer’s instructions, since for some models this part is non-separable.
First of all, you need to remove the knobs that are responsible for external adjustment, and only then can you move on to the front panel.
Under the front panel there is a bar that presses the switches.

Power circuit breakers

Equipment malfunctions are often accompanied by failure of electronic components operating under voltage. Symptoms of a breakdown can be different: unstable operation and spontaneous shutdown of the device, the smell of burnt wiring (plastic), the appearance of clicks and sparks. If the wiring is damaged, current can flow through the metal body of the device, which poses a serious threat to the health and life of the owner. To protect users, power circuit breakers are provided for each connection line.

There are a large number of protective devices that respond to electrical equipment failures. They are triggered by a short circuit or by detecting alternating and pulsating leakage currents. Automatic circuit breakers (circuit breakers) instantly disconnect the line in the event of an overload. Residual current devices (RCDs) disconnect the circuit when a current difference is detected in the phase and neutral conductors. The difference is a signal that part of the current goes to the ground or to the protective conductor. This may indicate a violation of the integrity of the wiring or a breakdown of the equipment connected to it.

Automatic switches controlled by differential current (difavtomats) are the most complex and multifunctional devices. They provide comprehensive protection against current leakage, short circuits and network overloads. To ensure reliable protection of a person and his home, as well as wiring and household appliances, circuit breakers must be installed for each powerful consumer (refrigerator, hob, oven, water heater, washing machine and dishwasher). This disconnection will reduce the risk of failure of all devices if a short circuit occurs in one of them.

What will be required for repairs?

Each model of electric stove may have certain problems in operation, however, there are a number of common malfunctions that can be detected by studying the symptoms. Among the most popular malfunctions that owners of electric stoves encounter are the following.

When using the electric stove, a burning smell is felt. If we are talking about the smell of burnt food, then you don’t have to worry as your device does not need repair. Simply cleaning the surface will be enough. But if it smells like melted rubber, then you need to immediately turn off the power and call a technician who can examine the integrity of the wiring and prevent a fire.

The burner turns on, but does not heat up. Very often this happens due to the fact that there is no voltage in the network, so first of all you need to check whether current is passing to the electric stove. If so, the problem may be a faulty coil or controller arm, which will require replacing all the wires. One of the most common problems with tabletop electric stoves is that their spirals deteriorate quite quickly. They can fail as a result of mechanical stress or temperature changes. For example, if you spill cold water on a heated burner, the equipment will most likely fail. This is the main reason for the lack of uniform heating of the burner. The positive point is that it is quite simple to repair the spiral or completely replace it without a specialist, because getting to this part in the structure will not be difficult.

It is not possible to set the required surface heating temperature. This situation can only be corrected by replacing the mode switches, which is done quite easily and quickly.

The machine knocks out: what are the reasons?

Now let's move directly to the question of why the machine gun knocks out in the dashboard. The machine may be triggered for the following reasons:

Overload in the electrical network.
Failure of one of the devices included in the circuit.
Light fixture failure.
The safety device is faulty.
Short circuit.

Any of the listed reasons can lead to the AB knocking out. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Overload

This is the name of the situation when the amount of current in the circuit exceeds the rated value for which the protective switch is designed. For better understanding, let's give an example.

To work with socket groups, AVs are mainly used, the rated current of which is 16 - 25 A. This indicator corresponds to a total power of 3.5 - 5.5 kW. Let us assume that an electric stove with a power of 3 kW, an electric kettle of 1.3 kW, and a microwave oven of 2 kW are connected to the socket group, for the protection of which a 25 A circuit breaker is installed.

If we add up the power of the listed household appliances, we get a load value of 6.3 kW. Considering that the maximum load withstood by the protective device is 5.5 kW, turning on all three devices at the same time will result in the machine being knocked out.

To avoid this, you should not take the calculation of the total load in the circuit lightly. If connecting a device to an outlet group would result in the total wattage being exceeded, it should be connected to a different circuit.

An example of incorrect wiring calculations in the video:

Do not try to solve the problem by installing a machine designed for higher power. If its rating exceeds the cross-section that the electrical wiring can withstand, problems are inevitable. In this case, the cable, under the influence of too much current, will heat up until the insulating layer melts and causes a short circuit, and in the worst case, a fire. The machine will continue to supply current to the circuit until a short circuit occurs. Therefore, if a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² is used when laying a line, the AB rating for its protection should not exceed 16 A (for an aluminum conductor) or 25 A (for a copper conductor).

Breakdown of a household appliance

If you plug in a faulty household electrical appliance, the likelihood that the machine will turn off is also quite high. Let's look at an example of how to find the device that caused the problem.

Let’s say the network in the kitchen includes an electric stove, microwave and oven. The machine in this chain was knocked out. To determine the cause of the problem, proceed as follows:

We disconnect all units from the network.
We turn on the machine. If it does not knock out without a load, the wiring and protective device are in good condition.
We connect household equipment one by one. If, for example, when you turn on the stove and microwave oven, the circuit works, and when you turn on the oven, the machine knocks out - the oven is faulty, and it must either be replaced or repaired

Video diagnostic example:

Some types of household units (for example, dishwashers or air conditioners) are connected to the network directly, and not through an electrical outlet. Such devices must be disconnected from the protective device installed inside the switchboard - this is the only way to check them.

Malfunction of lighting devices

Now let’s figure out why the machine knocks out when you turn on any lighting fixture. In any case, the cause is a malfunction of the latter, which may be as follows:

Short circuit in the lamp base. To find the faulty element, you need to unscrew them all and, screwing them in one at a time, turn on the lighting device. When, after screwing in the next light bulb and turning on the light, the AB is triggered, this means that the cause of the problem has been found. A light bulb found with a broken base must be replaced with a working one. Of course, if the only light bulb in the device burns out and the machine is knocked out, the cause of the malfunction is obvious, and there is no need to waste time searching for it.

Please note that sometimes light bulbs burn out due to a faulty switch - this may also be accompanied by the activation of a protective device.

Burning of the contact between the power cable and the internal wiring of the device. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to clean the contact and then properly insulate it.
Short circuit inside the LED chandelier transformer. If turning on such a device results in the machine being knocked out, there is a high probability that this is precisely the problem. To troubleshoot, a non-working transformer will need to be replaced with a working one.

As you can see, the reason for switching off the AV when a lighting device fails is most often a short circuit. In this case, the wiring does not have time to heat up to a critical level, so the operation is caused not by a thermal, but by an electromagnetic release.

Failure of the circuit breaker

The reason for a sudden loss of power can also be problems in the machine itself, but this happens very rarely, especially when it comes to models from well-known manufacturers. But if there is a suspicion that the protective device is faulty, it should be checked by connecting a new one that is known to be operational. You can also disconnect the circuit from this AB and connect it to the adjacent packet in the distribution panel. If these machines also work, you need to look for the problem elsewhere.

Even a seemingly serviceable machine gun can knock out. Video example:

The reason for the failure of a circuit breaker can also be its long-term operation, during which natural wear of its components occurs and their technical parameters deteriorate. This also applies to releases. As a result, the device can operate even if the conductor is slightly heated. Such an AB must be replaced.

What causes a differential circuit breaker to trip?

A differential-type circuit breaker can de-energize the network for the same reasons as a regular one (if the wiring gets very hot or a short circuit occurs). But since it contains, in addition to releases, an RCD, it also reacts to leakage current, so it is not so easy to find the reason for the operation of the automatic circuit breaker.

If such a device operates for no apparent reason, a more thorough check needs to be carried out.

Inspect the breaker, if necessary, tighten the contacts. Check the condition of the electrical wiring in the distribution board. If a phase conductor touches a grounded metal case, this may cause the differential circuit breaker to be knocked out, although it will not lead to a short circuit.

Let's assume that no faults are found in the switchboard. Consequently, there is a current leak in the protected electrical circuit. Its reasons may be the following:

Faulty electrical appliance. If it penetrates its body, the RCD of the difavtomat is triggered, the task of which is to prevent people from being electrocuted.
Short circuit between the protective grounding wire and the zero phase, which is sometimes done by inexperienced electricians.

Heavy thunderstorm. Powerful electrical discharges often cause the differential protective device to be knocked out. In this case, it is better not to turn on the AV until the thunderstorm subsides.
Worn insulating layer of old electrical wiring. In this case, electric current leaks through microcracks and triggers the machine. Since such damage is difficult to see with the naked eye, and the faulty cable does not heat up, it can be difficult to detect the problem.
A stuck “Test” button on the device or a damaged housing part also leads to the device triggering. In this case, the faulty device must be replaced.
Installation of the machine is not according to the diagram.

The differential machine must be checked from time to time by pressing the “Test” button with the load off. A working device should turn off. If it continues to work, this indicates a violation of the protective function and the need to replace the device.

Why the RCD knocks out - clearly in the video:

Wiring fault

The reasons for disconnecting the AV may be:

Worn cable insulation layer.
Poor contact in a switch or electrical outlet.

If the problem is in a switch or socket, then to fix the problem you need to open the element, clean the burnt area and connect the cable correctly. When the insulation is worn out, especially when it comes to hidden wiring, it is not easy to find the problem.

In this case, a special device will help - a locator, with which you can detect damage to the cable, even if it is hidden in the wall.

Having determined the location of the problem, you need to open it and eliminate the problem, and then seal the groove again.

Why does the RCD trip?

When the boiler is turned on, the RCD may trip, or the automatic device may turn off the electricity in the entire house. Let's figure out why the RCD periodically or constantly trips on a home water heater:

What kind of lighting do you prefer?

Built-in Chandelier

When a simple circuit breaker or differential circuit breaker is triggered, the cause may be a short circuit inside the boiler or in its wiring, or a network overload (if there are a lot of electrical appliances in the apartment). Dowels with shelves and mirrors may be driven into the wall, violating the integrity of the electrical wiring.
An important role is played by the correct selection of RCDs based on rated current and leakage current. If the device is selected incorrectly, it will trigger frequently.
When the RCD is disconnected, the cause may be a violation of the integrity of the heating element or wiring inside the heater, leading to electric current leakage onto the boiler body. If there is a ground loop in the outlet, the power is immediately turned off. In the absence of grounding, the device turns off after a breakdown of current from the housing to a person.
Incorrect connection of the RCD in the electrical panel. If the work was done by a non-professional, then there is a possibility of an error. Sometimes the ground is connected to the zero, which causes the device to trip.
Malfunction of the shutdown device itself. The test button may stick or the switch may have mechanical defects. In this case, the slightest vibration will trigger it. In Thermex heaters, the protective device is often faulty due to its poor quality.
Sometimes a shutdown occurs after a period of time and heating of the water. The reason may be a slight deformation of the boiler body and its contact with the “phase”.

Expert opinion

It-Technology, Electrical power and electronics specialist

Ask questions to the “Specialist for modernization of energy generation systems”

The machine knocks out: without load, when turning on the light, electric stove or kettle - reasons. The second reason is poor-quality production of products, this often happens if materials with underrated characteristics are used that do not meet regulatory requirements. Ask, I'm in touch!

Disabling the automatic lighting group

To look for damage, you first need to turn off all lights. If the machine turns on after this, then turn off the lighting fixtures one by one. On a damaged device, the machine will reset again.

Now all that remains is to determine exactly where the damage or defect is located. The lamp should be disassembled, the socket and the switch itself should be removed. If a short circuit occurs inside the lighting device itself, its causes will be clearly visible to the naked eye.

If the reason lies in the lighting group, you need to look for the reason in the lamp

If nothing is found in the lamp, the reason may only lie in the wiring - in the area from the device to the switch. Check the location of the fault using a multimeter.

The electric stove turns off the machine

The windings in the pump motor have burned out. It's no secret that the quality of a product depends on the price. Budget models do not last long and fail after 1-2 years of operation (sometimes less). Some devices quickly burn out due to damage to the automation, for example, due to the relay wedge that controls the pressure. If damaged, it cannot turn off the pump, which runs continuously and eventually burns out.
The supply cable through which voltage is supplied to the well is damaged. For example, the wire may fray, causing a short circuit. At the same time, the pump itself is operational and, after replacing the cable, continues to perform its assigned tasks. There are cases when the cable turned out to be completely defective.
Water got into the block where the wires are connected (located on the well body). As a rule, the problem occurs in the spring when the snow melts.

When the electric stove is working properly

It is not always the case that a stove or hob is knocked out by a machine or RCD due to a breakdown. And in some cases you can solve the problem yourself. Here are typical situations.

The plug, cord or socket is faulty. Carefully inspect the plug, cord, and outlet. If damage is found, repair it yourself or contact an electrician.
Failure of a machine or RCD . It is necessary to check the electrical equipment and, if necessary, replace it with new one. If you are not comfortable with electricity yourself, call an electrician.
Moisture on the contacts. Often the stove begins to knock out the plugs after it has been washed or if the dish has “run away” during cooking. Due to moisture getting on the contacts (for example, the burner power switch), a short circuit occurs and the cooking machine knocks out. Do not use the stove for about a day, the moisture will dry out and the problem will disappear on its own.
Incorrect connection of the stove. For safety reasons, electric stoves are connected to a separate line with their own automatic or automatic switch. They can also install an additional RCD (32-40 amperes). If the line or protective equipment is not designed for the power of the stove, then when the burners are heated (at the moment of greatest electricity consumption), an overload will occur and the machine will break. Another common mistake is when, when independently installing a plate in the terminal block, phase, neutral and ground are confused.

Note! Incorrect connection of the stove can lead to its failure. Don’t take risks with your equipment – seek help from a specialist if you don’t understand electricity.

Fan

The second is to check the fan, and checking it is elementary. It starts working even if the heating element is not turned on; it usually turns on when the light in the hob is turned on. So - if you turn the knob to turn on the light, and immediately or after a few seconds the plugs go out, then this means that it is the fan that is faulty.

Useful tips Connection diagrams Principles of operation of devices Main concepts Meters from Energomer Precautions Incandescent lamps Video instructions for the master Testing with a multimeter

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You habitually turned on the hob or electric stove, wanting to cook food, but instead of heating the burner in the house, the plugs were knocked out. What happened? Has the stove failed? In our material we will look at the main reasons.

What's the result?

In such a situation, three options emerge: either a complete overhaul of the stove with the help of a professional electrician, or its replacement (if the warranty has not expired), or a direct route to an official service center. I don’t advise you to joke with electricity - if after turning on the oven the entire stove turns off, measures must be taken immediately . I note that among the whole heap of possible causes, the most common source of problems is bad contacts, poor connection, damage to the power cord, broken ground wire, etc. This is where you need to steer first.

Possible faults

By the concept of “knocks out traffic jams,” users understand both the operation of the machine and the switching off of the RCD. The result is the same, but the electrical processes that lead to it are different.

Note! Let us explain for understanding. The RCD detects current leakage and is triggered if there is a breakdown on the housing in household appliances. The machine turns off the power when a short circuit or network overload occurs. A difavtomat is a device that combines an automatic machine and an RCD: it is triggered in both cases. In general, RCDs, automatic devices and difavtomats are automatic devices for disconnecting the power supply, or automation for short.

In tables we have collected frequent malfunctions of electric stoves, due to which the automation is triggered when turned on or while the stove is heating.

What not to do if your stove begins to knock out the RCD

In some sources you can find advice to turn the stove plug 180 degrees, which has begun to knock out the RCD or automatic circuit breaker, or plug the stove into another outlet through an extension cord. RemBytTech specialists categorically do not recommend engaging in such “self-medication”. By such actions, you “deprive” the electrical appliance of grounding, which can lead to an electric shock when you touch the stove (the force of the impact can lead to serious injury, even death).

Do not risk your equipment and your own safety! If your stove knocks out the machine or the RCD is triggered, contact qualified help by calling:

RemBytTech technicians have extensive experience in repairing electric stoves of all brands and years of manufacture. We arrive within 24 hours after receiving the application and promptly eliminate faults in household appliances with a guarantee of up to 2 years.