Which power extension cord to choose: rating of TOP-9 extension cords for professionals

An extension cord is an indispensable assistant in everyday life and when performing certain types of work. This device with several sockets and a very long cord, invented in 1972 by Peter Talbot, allows us to conveniently and comfortably arrange household appliances the way we need, regardless of whether there is an electrical outlet in one place or another. However, there are also special power extension cords - indispensable assistants in garages and construction sites. They will allow you to use various power tools even at a considerable distance from the power source. In this article we will tell you about the top 9 best power electrical extension cords.

Differences between household and power extension cords

An electrical extension cord is a device that is used to connect various devices to the power supply in places where there are no conventional stationary sockets. This electromechanical device consists of a plug, wires of various lengths, as well as sockets - one or more - into which other devices are connected. As a rule, an extension cord is used as a temporary connection option, but in domestic conditions it can be used on a permanent basis. As for construction sites, it performs a temporary, but very important function.

Extension cords come in different types. For use in difficult conditions and when connecting equipment with special requirements, power extension cords are used. As a rule, they are used where it is necessary to safely connect electrical appliances with high power from 3 kW. The same electric lawn mower cannot be turned on through a regular extension cord - only through a power one.

Power extension cords, compared to ordinary household ones, are usually much longer (up to 50 m), have a special level of protection from external factors, and have a good supply of conducted power. Such extension cords or carriers are well protected from moisture and have a durable wire sheath - everything is done in order to avoid accidental electric shock. They will always come in handy at a construction site in the garage, when renovating a house or apartment, or in the garden.

What is another name for a socket?

Plug socket

- a connector attached to an apparatus or structural element or the like.
... In professional activities and in everyday life they often say “connector”, “plug” (from the German Stecker “plug”). Sometimes the plug and socket are called
"male" and "male" respectively.

Interesting materials:

What do you need when registering a car with the traffic police? What should you take to burn fat? What do you need to pass for driving school? What do you need to pass for your license? What needs to be checked in a car? What do you need to collect to replace your driver's license? What should you ask when buying a car? What needs to be insured under MTPL? What do you need in a car? What do you need for a driving school?

Top 9 best power extension cords

What would you choose or recommend?

Take the survey

In this list, we will introduce you to the best models of power extension cords that you can safely trust. The list is compiled based on reviews and ratings from customers who have already tried these options in practice. For ease of study, we have divided the rating into three categories depending on the design features of a particular extension cord.

DIY electrical extension cord

On the electrical appliances market you can find a huge variety of different extension cords, but it is often difficult to choose a model of the required length and power. Some craftsmen want to learn how to make an electrical extension cord themselves. First of all, you need to decide what the carrier will be used for, how many and what devices will be connected to it. To work you will need:

• removable plug;
• cable of the required length;
• block of sockets (or one);
• screwdriver;
• wire cutters

To make an extension cord, you need to perform the following steps:

1. We disassemble (unscrew the bolts) the fork.
2. We cut (clean) the end of the cable.
3. We cut off the rubber insulation on the cable cores, stepping back from the edge by 1-2 cm.
4. We prepare the ends of the wire - make a loop, twist it into one core (depending on the fastening of the contacts in the plug).
5. We do the same at the other end of the wire.
6. We connect the wires to the contacts of the plug and assemble it.
7. We disassemble the socket (block of sockets).
8. We connect the ends of the wire to its terminals.
9. We assemble the socket in the reverse order and our extension cord is ready for use.
10. Before turning on the product, you must test it with a multimeter to ensure correct assembly.

Power extension cords on a reel

Such extension cords are very convenient to transport and use due to the presence of a reel on which the electrical cable is wound. It is also convenient to unwind or collect it on the same reel, which, as a rule, has support legs that ensure the stability of the reel.

1№ 1 - Glanzen EB-20-002 6A IP20

This extension cord is rightfully considered one of the best on the market in terms of cost and quality. Prices for it do not exceed 1000 rubles in various stores, but the model is reliable and easy to use, and has an IP20 protection class. This particular option has 4 connection sockets and a wire length of 20 m. Two-core cable 2x0.75 m. When unwound, the power is 1300 W. The model is actively used in garages, construction sites, and dachas. There is no grounding. Connection to a stationary outlet is made using a regular plug. The reel is made of durable plastic and mounted on a reliable and stable tripod.

pros

• low cost
• Ease of use
• reliability
• good build quality
• long
• many sockets

Minuses

• not detected

Prices for power extension cord Glanzen EB-20-002 6A IP20

Glanzen EB-20-002 6A IP20

Reviews of the power extension cord Glanzen EB-20-002 6A IP20

2No. 2 – Jett 153-530

Compared to the previous model, this version of the extension cord is much more expensive - prices start around 2,400 rubles. The model is also equipped with 4 sockets for connecting electrical appliances. The cable used here is two-core and has a length of 30 m (2x2.5mm). The plastic spool makes it quick and easy to wind and unwind. It is installed on a stable frame and has a compact ergonomic carrying handle. There is no grounding. A fairly reliable and durable option for use in any conditions.

pros

• high reliability
• thick cable
• convenient carrying handle
• long cable
• many sockets

Minuses

• high price

Prices for power extension cord Jett 153-530

Jett 153-530

3№ 3 - Power Cube PC-L1-K-20 6A IP20

This extension cord falls into third place due to the presence of only one outlet. However, it is considered one of the best options in terms of price and quality. The cost of the model is around 800 rubles. Model on a dense plastic reel with a cable length of 20 m and a cross-section of 0.75 mm. When unwound, it has a power of 1300 watts. The model belongs to the IP20 protection class. This is a reliable carrying option that looks expensive, although it costs quite reasonable money. He will help you out more than once when performing various tasks.

pros

• good build quality
• long wire
• reliable
• low cost

Minuses

• one socket

Prices for power extension cord Power Cube PC-L1-K-20 6A IP20

Power Cube PC-L1-K-20 6A IP20

Review of extension cord Photon - 16A, 4000 W

In front of us is an extension cord with five sockets. Yes, yes, you are reading a review of a simple extension cord, and I will try to make it informative.

Packaging is standard: plastic bag with print. Name - Photon. Current - 16 amperes. Power - 4000 W, 5 sockets with grounding, made according to GOST, 5-year warranty.

On the back of the package, the technical specifications are revealed in more detail. For example, the issue with the maximum power of electrical appliances is clarified. The fact is that 220 volts times 16 amps equals 3520 watts. Does not fit with the declared 4000 W. It's okay, no need to worry. 4000 watts are achieved at 250 volts. GOST 29322-2014, introduced in Russia in 2015, provides for a household voltage of 230 volts, so our maximum power will be 230 * 16 = 3680 W.

The extension cord is 2 meters long. The wire used is PVA, three copper cores in double insulation, cross-section 1mm^2. It cannot be said that the wire was chosen with a large margin: for a current of 16A, a cross-section of 1.5 mm^2 is more suitable, but perhaps one millimeter is enough. We have to check this.

Appearance

Open the package and take out the contents:

And the content makes a pleasant impression. Plug with universal ground pin arrangement: French type E (hole in the plug body) and European standard type F (two contact plates on the side of the plug). There is a slight smell of a new plastic item, but it will disappear later in the day.

The wire is soft, you won't have to bend it over your knee. The plastic of the case is rough, even slightly soft, so it is unlikely to crack. Key switching is clear, with a click. It doesn’t require much effort; both a child and an old woman with arthritis can do it.

Turning the body over:

The housing is detachable and assembled with six self-tapping screws. This is good. Self-tapping screws with a head for a three-bladed screw. We will need a special screwdriver. However, if such a screwdriver is not at hand, with some patience you can unscrew the screws with a regular slotted screwdriver. And replace with standard ones, if desired.

On the back of the case there is an embossed inscription with the main characteristics of the product. The creators sensibly reasoned that there is unlikely to be a person who saves the packaging from the extension cord in order to refresh their memory of the technical characteristics of the device before use.

The screwdriver has been found, you can start opening it.

Design

Three brass bars, five shutter mechanisms, a key, a clamp for fixing the wire, a rubber stocking to protect the wire from excessively sharp bends - that’s all the contents of the case.

The grounding wire is crimped with a sleeve, the sleeve is welded to the busbar by spot welding. This is a completely technically sound solution.

The neutral wire from the switch key is attached to the bus in a similar way. You can see that not all the veins found a place in the sleeve, but most were compressed.

It's the same story with the phase wire. Of course, having a European standard plug-socket, it is possible to talk very conditionally about which wire is neutral and which is phase. But the standard marking indicates the wire with neutral in blue, the wire with phase in brown, and grounding in traditionally cheerful yellow-green colors.

We take out all the components:

I did not remove the key; to do this I would have to unsolder the wires. But the rest came out easily. The bars are bent from a single sheet of brass. The contact plates of five sockets are attached to the grounding bus using rivets. Most extension cords on our market are made this way, although there is a suspicion that the elasticity of the power busbars may decrease over the years, and the riveted connection may oxidize, which will worsen the contact.

Flimsy contacts are the Achilles heel of extension cords. Poor contact causes sparking, sparking leads to the formation of a layer of oxides. The oxide film increases the contact resistance. Which leads to heating and loosening of contacts. And one day this process may take on an avalanche-like character. The manufacturer of this extension cord states that the contact plates are made of brass. It's time to check it out. For comparison, I disassembled three of my old extension cords, I’ll start with them.

My old extension cords

The first extension cord causes increased nervousness in the user. You need to look for the contact by feeling with the plug inside the socket. The mechanism inside has become loose to such an extent that the fork is held only by the gravity of our beloved planet. As soon as the body is turned over, the fork flies out, drawn by the Earth:

The contact plates are installed in plastic slots in the housing. Connecting the plates only at the edges. The thickness of the plates is 0.43 mm.

The magnet (the ring above the caliper) is confidently magnetized to the plate. Apparently it's steel. There are visible rust spots on the body.

The second extension cord is considered convenient and reliable by household members. The forks fit well in it. Let's look at:

A special housing is provided for the contact plates. True, the plates are only 0.33 mm thick. But they are made of non-ferrous metal - the magnet lies quietly next to it and does not react to them in any way. With two connection points, the two contact plates retain their elasticity and secure the forks well.

I once repaired the third Here he is:

The plates are 0.4 mm thick, the material is steel, the magnet is attracted. The plates are connected to each other only at the place where the wires are soldered. To cure the poor contact, I had to place pieces of window seal between the plates and the body. You can see them if you look closely at the photo. Yes, the fork fixation has appeared, but the feeling of beauty no longer comes to me when disassembling this device.

Differences between the new extension cord and the old ones

Now let's look at the sample in question:

The thickness of the plates is 0.4 mm. Each contact bar is one sheet of metal bent along the longitudinal axis. This eliminates the need to fasten the two plates with rivets, soldering, spot welding, or, as I did, pressing them with rubber bands.

The tire is made of non-ferrous metal. The magnet lies nearby and does not react to her in any way.

Without life tests it is difficult to talk about reliability, but now we can say that the advantage declared by the manufacturer - contacts made of brass - corresponds to reality.

The curtain mechanisms are made independently of other parts and may not be installed. The point of their presence is that a child will not be able to insert, for example, a bolt into a protected socket. The curtains will only open access to the contacts if the pins try to penetrate both holes at the same time. Only then will the curtain open and contact will occur. Of course, it is more difficult to insert a plug into an outlet protected by a curtain. But curtains can also protect against splashes and dust.

But the body of the curtains is made of fragile plastic: despite all my care, the loop of one curtain flew off, and the other had a crack in the same place. It's a small thing, but unpleasant.

Switch

On the switch body there is an inscription about the maximum current of 16A and voltage of 250 volts. Let's look at:

Two contact plates, the contact pads themselves are made of the same metal, there are no particularly valuable metals.

The swings themselves also have no visible noble soldering. The key has a neon lamp built into it. The inclusion of consumers will be visible from afar, and neon is a fairly economical solution.

We collect, turn on, admire:

Beautiful.

Extension resistance

And we take it apart again. Let's check the resistance. Simply attaching multimeter probes is not suitable in our case. The circuit resistance is too low, the random measurement factors are too large, and the resistance of the probes also contributes. Therefore, we will do it differently: let’s pass a current through the circuit, say 10 amperes. And we will measure the voltage between the input and output. Of course, we will do this through the second pair of probes, so that imperfections in the power connection do not affect the measurement. I put together this stand:

The current is 10 amperes, along the phase line the voltage drop is 536 mV. More than half a volt. A bit much.

Let's see what contribution the key switch makes:

100 mV, or 0.1V. At a current of 10A, a power of 0.1*10 = 1 W will be released at the contacts. This is also a bit much. Do not forget that there are two pairs of contacts in the switch, and for now we are examining only one.

Let's see what's there along the zero line:

Total voltage drop 630 mV.

Switch contacts:

289 mV.

We perform the same operation with the grounding circuit. It is not interrupted by a switch, so there is only one measurement:

0.959 volts. This line should not be loaded with current, but for clear operation of the RCD in the shield and to protect a person from electric shock, its resistance must be close to the resistance of the power circuit.

Let's not forget that in real operation, current flows through both wires at once, so it is fair to measure the total resistance. To do this, I made a short circuit jumper. I made it as conductive as I could, from a 6 square millimeter core.

Such a jumper will clearly not become the bottleneck in the chain.

The voltage drop at a current of 10 amperes was 1.154 volts. Or, in other words, when transferring power to a load of 2300 W (an electric kettle or iron can easily become this), our extension cord will heat up like an 11.5 W stove. And if the load is close to the maximum, then at a current of 16A our extension cord will heat up with a power of 18.5 W.

Where does that power go? What gets hottest? To find out, let's take a thermal imager:

The experiment has just begun, but the picture is already clear. The weak point is the switch and the wire itself. The first socket is most likely heated by the switch; my short-circuit jumper heated up barely noticeably.

Here it is, the wire:

Branded, marked “Photon”, three cores of 1 mm^2 each.

We burn with electric current

For the last experiment I prepared thoroughly. I took porcelain tiles and a transformer from a spot welding device. In short-circuit mode, it gives a current of about two hundred amperes and burns out a hundred-hundredth of a nail in a minute. For ease of connection, I used 6 square copper wires. To smoothly regulate the current, an LATR was used at the input to the welding transformer (not included in the frame). The output current was measured using clamps.

... and nothing happened. The maximum current through the extension cord was about 20A, so of course it got warm, but it didn’t show any signs of ill health.

Then I decided to run the current through only one wire - from the plug to the closest socket. So the resistance is two times less, and the current, accordingly, should be twice as much. Here is the second version of the stand:

But even here it was not possible to burn the extension cord.

The current increased to approximately 40A, with a tendency to fall as it warmed up. In four minutes the wire heated up to 70 degrees. But the key remained barely warm. It became clear that the fireworks display was cancelled. Due to the relatively high resistance, it is not so easy to pass a large current through an extension cord. But the extension cord can withstand 40 amperes for 4 minutes - that’s already good.

The wire

All that remains is to look closely at the wire. I made a section and looked into the microscope:

This is copper. Nowadays, not every manufacturer uses copper; copper-plated wires are also found.

Let's look at one vein:

The wires are quite thin, about 0.2 mm. There are only 33 of them. And this really corresponds to GOST 22483-77, where the wire diameter for class 5 wires is standardized as “no more than 0.21 mm”. Namely, class 5 wires should go to PVS wire 3x1.00mm2

We calculate the cross-sectional area using the formula S=Pi*R^2, multiply by the number of wires (33): Pi*(0.2/2)^2*33 = 1.036 mm^2.

Well, yes, that's right. There are no complaints about the wire.

Then I started putting everything back together. And, because I didn't want to bother with spot welding and sleeves, I decided to just solder the ground wire. The metal solders very well. Regular solder with rosin. Of course, I lost the warranty, but I hope everything will be fine with the extension cord.

Results:

What I liked: Made carefully. Decent appearance, comfortable key, backlight. Curtains. Soft wire insulation. The manufacturer tries to be honest: all significant parameters are listed on the packaging. I even drew an axonometry with a section. And all the declared parameters that were verified turned out to be true. The extension cord withstood even a current 2.5 times higher than the maximum for 4 minutes without damage.

What I didn’t like: The stated power is too big. I would not connect 4KW for a long time and leave it unattended. Three-blade screws are not the most user-friendly solution. Contacts that adhere to the plug pins only due to the elasticity of the brass may not be the most durable solution. But complex spring-loaded contacts are a completely different price category.

Conclusion: you can take it, but be careful with powerful devices.

Link: https://www.foton.ru/products/udliniteli-i-razvetviteli/ (there is a “where to buy” section)

Power extensions on the frame

These extension cords, unlike the previous version, are wound not onto a reel, but onto a special dense frame, which is also convenient in its own way. They are a little less comfortable to use and, as a rule, have only one outlet.

1№ 1 - Power Cube PC-B1-F-30-R 16A IP20

This extension cord on the frame is very powerful when unwound - its power reaches 3500 W. The length of a two-core cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm is 30 m. Protection class IP20. Convenient curtains protect the socket from moisture and debris. And yes, there is only one here. Unfortunately, its coil is made of plastic and can be easily damaged if handled carelessly. The cost of the model is 2200 rubles.

pros

• very powerful
• high reliability
• long wire
• protective curtains

Minuses

• high price

Prices for power extension cord Power Cube PC-B1-F-30-R 16A IP20

Power Cube PC-B1-F-30-R 16A IP20

Reviews of Power Cube PC-B1-F-30-R 16A IP20 power extension cord

Power extensions on the frame

2No. 2 – ERA UF-1-2×0.75-20m 6A IP20

Another extension cord on the frame, which has a cable 20 m long, but with less power - 1300 W. The model has a two-core wire with a cross-section of 0.75 mm, which is wound on a plastic frame. One of the main advantages of this carrying option is the very low price, which starts from 400 rubles. The socket is the same as in the option above, only one. The model belongs to the IP20 protection class.

pros

• low cost
• Ease of use
• frame with a convenient handle
• reliable option

Minuses

• not detected

Prices for power extension cord ERA UF-1-2×0.75-20m 6A IP20

ERA UF-1-2×0.75-20m 6A IP20

3No. 3 - Glanzen ER-30-001 6A IP20

This carrier, costing around 600 rubles, is also included in our rating of the best. Its cable length is 30 m, cable cross-section is 0.75 mm. The power is 1300 W when unwound. The cable is wound around a plastic frame. There is only one socket, like the models above. But this option is notable for its pleasant price. Protection class - IP20. The main disadvantage is low reliability. Users noted that this carrier will not always last for years.

pros

• low cost
• easy to use
• long cable

Minuses

• low quality

Prices for power extension cord Glanzen ER-30-001 6A IP20

Glanzen ER-30-001 6A IP20

Extension cord

In this category, we have collected three popular models that have neither a reel nor a frame for winding the cord. They are simply rolled into a skein.

1№ 1 – Denzel 96036 16A IP44

Grounded model, long enough to connect devices at a great distance from a fixed outlet. The length of the cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm is 20 m. The model is equipped with only one socket. When unwound, the power of the extension cord is 3500 W. The socket is covered with protective curtains. Protection class - IP44. This is a long and powerful extension cord that is well protected and will become your best assistant.

pros

• very powerful option
• thick cable
• long cord
• high reliability
• protective curtains

Minuses

• not detected

Prices for power extension cord Denzel 96036 16A IP44

Denzel 96036 16A IP44

Reviews of power extension cord Denzel 96036 16A IP44

2No. 2 - LUX 16510 16A IP20

An extension cord with grounding is short enough, but designed to handle high power. When unwound, its length is only 10 m and its power is about 3600 W. The model is equipped with one socket and has a cable with a cross-section of 3x1.5 mm. The protection class of this option is IP20. Its most important advantage is its reasonable price. But, as buyers write, the quality is not always the best.

pros

• low price
• very powerful
• good level of protection
• grounding
• not afraid of bends and pressure

Minuses

• short wire
• low build quality

Prices for power extension cord LUX 16510 16A IP20

LUX 16510 16A IP20

3№ 3 - Power Cube PC-E1-B-20 6A IP20

Unlike previous options, this extension cord does not have a grounding connection. The length of its two-core cable is 20 m, and there is one socket. The model has an unwound power of 1300 W. Protection class - IP20. This extension cord option can be an excellent helper in any task: it is well assembled, has a good length and is easy to use.

pros

• long cable
• bright braided wire
• reliable
• good build quality
• almost does not tan in the cold

Minuses

• no grounding

Prices for power extension cord Power Cube PC-E1-B-20 6A IP20

Power Cube PC-E1-B-20 6A IP20

Useful notes

Like any electrical equipment, extension cords are susceptible to moisture. Working with them or leaving them in the rain is strongly discouraged. But if this happens, you should thoroughly blow out the sockets and plugs, then dry them in a hot, dry room for at least a day. You can only work on dew if the plug connection is guaranteed not to touch wet grass. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to complete failure or even fire of the extension cord.

If you need to supply electricity over a distance of more than 30 meters, then it is better to choose a thicker cable, since on a thin cable, with a high consumer power, the voltage can drop significantly. But outside the city it is often below par, so it may happen that the power tool will not be able to develop sufficient power or will completely refuse to work. The problem with low “rural” voltage can be solved by installing a single-phase stabilizer with a power of 3–6 kW in the house, for example, the ENERGY Classic 5000 or RIDER RDR 5000 brands. These inexpensive devices are capable of maintaining a constant output voltage level of 220 V with an input voltage of 120 to 280 V.

When unwinding the cable, do not under any circumstances throw it off the reel, otherwise it will begin to curl and it will be very difficult to return it to its initial state.

How to choose a power extension cord

A power extension cord is the main assistant in any task if it involves connecting any powerful electrical appliance to the mains. And such amplifiers are subject to special requirements - ones that are not imposed on ordinary household devices. How to choose the right electromechanical device and what should you consider when choosing?

Important! Any power extension cord if used incorrectly is dangerous to health and life! Therefore, we kindly ask you to follow safety precautions when using power carriers.

First of all, when choosing such a product, the buyer needs to evaluate the marking and cross-section of the wire. This will determine the maximum load that one or another version of the extension cord can withstand.

• Cross section 0.75 mm - load up to 6 A (1300 W) - for household appliances.
• Cross section 1 mm - load up to 10 A (2200 W) - for small tools.
• Cross section 1.5 mm - load up to 16 A (3500 W) - for more complex equipment, construction tools.
• Section 2.5 mm or more - for professional use and use in conjunction with very powerful equipment.

It is best to look at the power of the extension cord indicated in its instructions, and compare the indicator with the instructions for the device that you will plug into the outlet. So it’s almost impossible to make a mistake with power.

By the way, remember that it is best to take a device with a small power reserve. That is, if you plan to turn on the device at 3500 W, then you need an extension cord for 3850 W and higher. The power reserve should be at least 5-10% of the total indicator. Otherwise, there is a risk of overheating and short circuiting.

Having decided on the cross-section, you can think about the length of the cable. Here you should focus on the distance of the workplace from a stationary outlet. For some carriers, the cable can reach a length of 50-100 m. However, we also do not recommend taking a long extension cord “in reserve.” This is due to the fact that almost all models of carriers must be completely unwound before use. Even if you only need 15-20 meters of cable. And then you will have to rewind this entire 50-meter unwound cable. This is a time-consuming and pointless process.

Important! If you do not unwind the extension cord completely, there is a risk of shorting out or overheating the device.

If we talk about the carrying form factor, the most convenient one is a reel. Especially if the extension cord is needed very long. Options with a frame or without any item at all for winding up the extension cord are cheaper, but are not as convenient to use.

If you plan to use an extension cord outdoors, then remember about weather and natural factors. Precipitation, low temperatures and other features of our weather can damage the product if it does not have appropriate protection. By the way, about protection classes:

• IP20 and IP40 - protection against particles;
• IP44 and IP54 - protection from moderate moisture, particles, dust;
• IP67 and IP68 - complete protection against dust and even immersion in water.

It is also desirable that the carrier has a grounding connection - this is a third wire or a special antenna inside the socket. This will help, if anything happens, to neutralize excessive stress and protect your equipment from damage, and you from injury. A fuse can also protect against overheating and short circuits.

Important! The grounding feature is a must when using the carrier in harsh conditions and difficult environments, or when connecting excessively powerful equipment.

Length

You're probably surprised that we didn't touch on this aspect a little earlier. This is because it is difficult to give any recommendations here - the choice of cord length depends entirely on your needs. But there is one remark. Do you remember what induction is? If yes, then you probably know that if you use a powerful device that consumes almost the same power that the extension cord itself is designed for, the cable must be completely unwound. When users do not do this, even cases of wire fires often occur.