At what height should sockets be installed for a refrigerator?

Access

Many people cannot place it on the side due to the close installation of the kitchen set. In this case, you can “hide” it in a locker.

One option is a hidden socket

A prerequisite is free access to an outlet. To do this, drill a hole in the back wall of the furniture. Please note that with this installation, the level of protection of power supplies must be IP44 or more.

Power distribution across group lines

When designing the kitchen power supply, separate and group power lines for lighting and plug sockets are provided based on the power of the household appliances connected to them.

An electric stove or hob must be connected through a separate power line with an appropriate circuit breaker. A separate connection is also recommended for other energy-intensive household appliances: oven, dishwasher or washing machine.

The power supply to the remaining electrical receivers is combined into group lines with a total power not exceeding 4.6 kW.

What is the cable cross-section for connecting the hob?

Hobs are very powerful devices, so they require a heavy-duty cable. The set of rules SP31-110-2003 states that cables with a core cross-section of at least 6 mm2 are suitable for this.

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Power of household appliances and choice of socket type

Information about the power of a household appliance is located on its body and in the operating instructions . This is a key parameter for choosing the type of electrical outlet. Knowing it, you can calculate the current strength in amperes (A) specifically for this device and choose the right socket for it.

Modern sockets for residential apartments with a voltage of 220 volts are most often designed for a maximum current of 10 or 16 amperes . But there are also higher power ones: 25 or 32 amperes.

The current strength (I) in amperes (A) is determined by the formula: I = P / (U x cosΨ), where :

P – power of the electrical appliance in watts (W);
U – voltage in the electrical network in volts (V);
cosΨ – power factor (approximately equal to 0.95).

Example : the current in the outlet when turning on a 2.2 kW washing machine will be equal to:

I = 2200 W / (220 V x 0.95) = 10.53 A.

Conclusion : in this case you cannot choose a 10 A socket; we accept a larger value - 16 A.

Approximate list of power of the most common built-in kitchen appliances:

hob – up to 10,000 W;
oven – up to 4000 W;
dishwasher – up to 2700 W;
washing machine – up to 2300 W;
refrigerator – up to 500 W;
hood – up to 150 W.

The maximum values are given here; in practice they are much less . Therefore, it is best to choose sockets according to the power of a particular household appliance.

Typically, 25 or 32 A sockets are used for hobs , 16 or 32 A for ovens, 10 A for hoods and refrigerators, and 16 A for other built-in appliances.

Important! For built-in household appliances, electrical sockets for hidden electrical wiring (recessed type) are used, always with protective grounding!

How to properly place sockets in an apartment?

Focus on 1-2 outlets on both sides of the sofa for lighting fixtures and appliances. If there are nightstands near the sofa, plan to place electrical outlets between them and the sofa. Sockets should be at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor, but not higher than the sofa. Many people like to sit comfortably by the window with a book.

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Kitchen hood

What power do you need for a kitchen hood?

Formula for calculating hood performance:

To calculate the power of the hood, in addition to the dimensional parameters of the kitchen, the following values are used:

the air exchange rate established by sanitary standards is 12. This means that in an hour all the air in the kitchen should be renewed 12 times
an additional coefficient of 1.3, which is introduced to take into account the loss of exhaust performance due to the number of floors of the building, contamination of the ventilation shaft, the length and curvature of the air duct and other factors.

Hood capacity = height*width*kitchen length*12*1.3

If the kitchen dimensions are 4 m wide, 3 m long, 2.5 m high, then the required hood power will be as follows: 4 * 3 * 2.5 * 12 * 1.3 = 468 m3/hour.

Rice. 1. Too lazy to count, a useful table for calculating the minimum performance of a kitchen hood

The higher the hood power, the faster the air in the kitchen will be renewed and the more comfortable it will be for you to cook.

Which hood to choose for a studio apartment

In a kitchen combined with a living room, preference should be given to a hood that operates in filtration or recirculation mode.

The fact is that if you install a conventional hood connected to a ventilation duct, then no matter how powerful it is, the throughput capacity of the ventilation ducts in most houses is 150–180 cubic meters of air per hour.

Meanwhile, even for a small-sized studio in Khrushchev, you will need a hood with a capacity of at least 400–600 cubic meters.

What is the difference between a recirculating hood and a flow hood:

Recirculation-type hoods differ from flow-through hoods in that they do not have an outlet pipe to remove contaminated air into the ventilation shaft; the air returns back to the kitchen through carbon filters.

What size should the hood be?

The size of the hood is selected based on the size of the slab. In this case, the filter surface may be slightly larger than the cooking surface, but not smaller.

From the burners to the hood there must be at least 60 centimeters for electric stoves and at least 75 centimeters for gas stoves.

Choose the most silent hood

Electrical socket height

At the moment, there are no strict rules regulating at what height to make sockets for household appliances. The technician should take into account the specific model of the refrigerator, as well as its location in the room. Another important point to consider is the length of the cord. Most modern refrigerated cabinets are equipped with cords no longer than 1 m, and this significantly reduces the possibilities for placing an electric point.

Practicing electricians give the following recommendations for choosing a location for a power point under the refrigerator:

If the equipment is not too tall and the cord is of sufficient length, then the electrical outlet can be installed above the refrigerator. In this case, access to it will be free, but at the same time it will be hidden from the eyes of people in the room.
The power point should be located at least 15 cm above the floor level. This is explained by the fact that the kitchen is a room with high humidity. There is a risk of water flooding the floor if the plumbing is faulty, and if the socket is located too low, there is a risk of water getting inside it.
The electrical outlet cannot be installed at a distance greater than the length of the refrigerator cord. If there is a need to place the power supply point at a significant distance from the piece of equipment, then you can use an extension cord. However, in this case, the interior will be spoiled by wires in plain sight.
The optimal height of the outlet for refrigeration equipment is 30-90 cm from the floor. This arrangement ensures ease of use, but also minimizes the risk of moisture getting into the fork holes.

In the vast majority of cases, electrical sockets are installed at a height of 30-40 cm above floor level.

Installation of a built-in refrigerator

Installing a built-in refrigerator is a complex and painstaking process that requires certain skills and special tools.
Therefore, this matter is most often entrusted to professionals, which saves time and even money (in case of accidental damage to the device or its fasteners). But regardless of which way you decide to go - install the refrigerator yourself or resort to the help of specialists, you should at least roughly know the procedure for this process.

In any case, it is better to independently control the process, even if a trained person is working, in order to avoid poor-quality performance of the service..

The installation process of a built-in refrigerator includes the following steps:

Unpacking equipment, removing protective films from all surfaces. Checking the presence of all parts, fasteners and related elements specified in the instructions.
Checking the dimensions of the refrigerator with the dimensions of the niche for installation - ventilation gaps and holes in the right places are a prerequisite.
Check the lower part of the canister for level; in case of deviations, eliminate the problem when installing the ventilation platform.
Removing the transport restraints from the device and installing it in a permanent place. Often at this stage, free space is left in front of the facade for ease of installation of doors.
The location of the wires above or below the refrigerator compartment, their fastening;
Installation of decorative panels that hide the nuances of installing equipment and cabinet doors.
Sealing of metal parts, installation of protective elements.
Installing the refrigerator to the required depth and fixing it in a permanent place.
Connecting the device to the electrical network and checking its functionality.